Used Unisaw Questions

[Keith Beck]

There's a used Unisaw 34-801 going up for auction near me. It is a 1.5 hp, so it's actually a "Tilting Arbor Saw" instead of a true Unisaw. It looks to be in pretty rough shape, with quite a bit of rust, but I think it can be saved. It's what you see is what you get and it has no fence. Starting bid is $50. I've only seen pictures of it so far, so once I see it in person, what are some things I should be checking for? How much do you think is a reasonable price or is it even worth bothering with? As you can see from the attached pic, it's got some electrical boxes attached. What exactly are they?

Keith

[Tim Morton]

This doesn't answer your question but, if I were going to put that much work into restoration i would want it to be a true unisaw.

[Bill Lewis]

Looking at it tells me that this saw is coming off of a government installation. The hearing protection stickers, and the fact that and you're from the VA Beach area are strong indicators.
Knowing this, the first thing I would check would be if it has a 3 phase, or single phase motor. If it is a 3 ph forget about it. Given the amout of parts that are already missing, I'd say that $50 would be my max bid.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

Keith, that is in fact a genuine Unisaw (search the model numer on Delta's website) , but the motor is most likely a replacement.

In any case, you're probably looking at a new motor and starter, as well as a fence, belts, blade, motor cover, and some serious labor on the top - not to mention anything else that isn't obvious from the picture (bearings?). Unless you really enjoy mechanical basket cases, I'd let this one go.

[Byron Trantham]

Just from the pictures, I'd pass on this one.

[JayStPeter]

Well, let's see, you're looking at around $300 for a good fence, $80 for new bearings (probably based on out in the weathering), and a new Unisaw motor (if necessary) is around $300. You might need a new switch (the one there might work if it can convert from 3-phase to 220, some of the expensive ones can). In any case, for a TS I'd want a magnetic switch which can be had around $50-75 or so. If you want DC, you'll have to get/make a motor cover. Then, there's the rust ...

I would consider it to be a good deal if you can get it put together with a 50" fence, extension table, etc. for total cost less than $700. It looks doubtful for that unless you find some good deals on used parts. The big risk to that number is the rust factor. It depends on how deep the rust is and what's inside. If you can get it cheap (ie < $100), you still might be able to ebay it for a minor profit or at least no loss ;) .

I refurbed an old Rockwell jointer. It didn't wind up being a good deal financially, but it was fun and taught me a good bit about working on WWing machines. You'll also be able to spread out the cost, which can sometimes be the only way to get a big machine around the financial approval process :D .

Jay

[Brandon Shew]

If you decide to pass on it - let me know where it is. I'm in VB too and I could really use it.

[Bart Leetch]

Well now lets see here I purchased a Unisaw for $250 & it was 3 phase motor & had the old fence system & no motor door & needed a new switch & it had no cast iron wings. When I finished I had a total of $900 into it would I do it again yes yes yes. I put a Grizzly motor into the saw because at the time I purchased it it saved me about $100 & it bolted right in like it was made for the saw. I also purchased the motor door & Shopfox fence from Grizzly My friend & I built the right extension table & left wing router table.

Yes I would do it again.