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Bruce Volden
03-05-2006, 3:36 PM
I was just curious in how you folks apply the Cermark for marking the various metals it is capable of.

Here's my way after months of trial and error. I get the thickened bottles right from Cerdec. I scoop out about 1/3rd of the bottle and in a clean bottle, drop that measurement in. I then fill up the "homebrew" bottle with denatured alcohol, and shake vigourosly! I then apply the "thinned out homebrew" with a FOAM throwaway brush. I have the batch the consistency of water and it goes on like a dream and dries uniformly, and the marks are crisp and clear!!! When I first starting using it from the manufacturer I didn't bother thinning it out too much and had varying results, seemed the thinner the better was the way to go. I do "tons" of knives for trap leagues across the nation and this method has yet to fail!

However, I do occasionally "blow" a knife and then had to get a Baldor grinder/buffer to recover but that's another thread.


Bruce

Linda Creatore
03-06-2006, 1:55 AM
So, Bruce, do you mean that your ratio is 1/3 cermark and 2/3 denatured alcohol, regardless of bottle size? For example, if you use 1cup of cermark, you'd mix in 2 cups of denatured alcohol?

Also, what settings are you using? (I have a 24TT 45W Epilog)

Thanks,
Linda

Bruce Volden
03-06-2006, 7:17 AM
Linda,

Not that scientific but close enough! It is quite watery and dries very quickly ~1 minute or less!
I have a 35W TT-75 power, 15 speed 400 DPI. On my LMI's (25W) I use 80 power 15 speed 300 DPI. Bruce

Joe Pelonio
03-06-2006, 4:55 PM
I keep one of those tiny little bottles and have mixed it 50-50 in an small cup and brush it with the brush that comes in the bottle cap, pour the extra back in. For a larger job I'll use the airbrush with the gravity cup not the bottle, but I hate to do that because when I clean it after I know how much money is going down the drain.

Linda Creatore
03-07-2006, 1:30 AM
Hey Guys!

Thanks for the info...I will probably buy Cermark in a jar after I finish off my spray can. The brush on will be much easier and less wasteful for smaller items.

Once you brush on the thin/watery mix, will it look completely opaque or will it look a bit transparent? Trying to get an idea of how to tell when there is the right amount on the item -- not too much, not too little. I've read that if too little or too much, the marking doesn't come out well.

Also, aside from sandblasting a surface, what do you use to clean a surface before applying cermark? I have some stainless flasks that might have a coating of some kind on them, but not sure. Any suggestions?

And, has anyone tried any of the other colors of cermark? If yes, what did you use it on and how was your outcome?

Thanks!
Linda

Keith Outten
03-07-2006, 6:11 AM
Linda,

I tried the Bronze TherMark material on glass. It was beautifull but I never could get the color to repeat consistantly on multiple pieces. I used an airbrush but still couldn't get the colors to match, some were light and some were darker even though they were mixed from the same batch. It seems to me that applying the material is a bit too sensitive. Of course its also expensive.

I stopped using CerMark and TherMark, now I paint fill my engraving using a mask. This looks great and is inexpensive without ther nasty chemicals to deal with and the results are consistant.

Joe Pelonio
03-07-2006, 7:47 AM
Hey Guys!

Once you brush on the thin/watery mix, will it look completely opaque or will it look a bit transparent? Trying to get an idea of how to tell when there is the right amount on the item -- not too much, not too little. I've read that if too little or too much, the marking doesn't come out well.

Also, aside from sandblasting a surface, what do you use to clean a surface before applying cermark? I have some stainless flasks that might have a coating of some kind on them, but not sure. Any suggestions?

Linda,

With the little brush it needs to be opaque. When it's dry you may have to go over it again if you see brush marks that are still part transparent. As long as it's thinned enough it shouldn't be too thick.

If you clean off the clearcoat you'll change the look of the finish, so what I do is engrave without cermark, then without moving it apply the cermark then engrave again.

Michael Wells
03-09-2006, 1:59 PM
For a larger job I'll use the airbrush with the gravity cup not the bottle, but I hate to do that because when I clean it after I know how much money is going down the drain.
Hey Joe, I spray nearly all of my Cermark jobs, because it gives me a much more even surface and is way more controllable. But I recover almost all of the washed off Cermark so my costs are really low!

What I do is to get a clean bucket and I wash off the piece over the bucket, using as little water as I can. Then set the bucket aside to settle, pour off the clear water when it has settled sufficiently. When the soup is pretty thick with Cermark droppings, I can then pour it into a salvage bucket, where I let it dry out completely. You can then use this salvage to remix with Denatured Alcohol and reuse as clean new Cermark!

Saves BIG DOUGH, even though it takes a little work. You can reclaim a huge amout of the product that way!
Michael

Joe Pelonio
03-09-2006, 3:18 PM
Hey Joe, I spray nearly all of my Cermark jobs, because it gives me a much more even surface and is way more controllable. But I recover almost all of the washed off Cermark so my costs are really low!

That's a great tip, Michael, worth the trouble when that stuff costs so much plus you have the UPS Hazardous Shipping charge. Thanks!

Bruce Volden
03-09-2006, 6:08 PM
Linda Creatore; Hey Guys!

Thanks for the info...I will probably buy Cermark in a jar after I finish off my spray can. The brush on will be much easier and less wasteful for smaller items.

Once you brush on the thin/watery mix, will it look completely opaque or will it look a bit transparent? Trying to get an idea of how to tell when there is the right amount on the item -- not too much, not too little. I've read that if too little or too much, the marking doesn't come out well.

Also, aside from sandblasting a surface, what do you use to clean a surface before applying cermark? I have some stainless flasks that might have a coating of some kind on them, but not sure. Any suggestions?

And, has anyone tried any of the other colors of cermark? If yes, what did you use it on and how was your outcome? Thanks!


Linda,

It will be very easy to tell the "correct" amount. You can't see through it when dry (opaque). And I highly recommend using the cheap foam brushes; coats VERY evenly, does not leave "streaks" (maybe on overlap, but get wider brush), cost effective as brushes should be rinsed out before they dry. Cleaning?~~ I use DNA (de-natured alcohol), unless material is coated, them burn thru with laser and then apply cermark.


Bruce

Barbara Sample
03-10-2006, 3:22 PM
Hello Everyone,
I just wanted to respond to all of you about the application of Cermark. I have been usuing a small spray can from a company called PreVal. It's got a small glass bottle on the bottom to mix the Cermark with the DNAlcohol and then I just spray it lightly on the surface. I don't have to use as much as with the brush on way. I also think it gives a more even consistancy.
When the can runs out of (gas/freeon) then you just get a refill can. I paid $5.00 for it. I got it at a local hardware store that carries them. I went to their website, and they also told me that Auberchon sells them. I went to an ACE Hardware here in my town.
I really like this method. Try it if you do not have an airbrush. They are sold in the paint departments of the hardware store.

I also mix it two to one. If I put in two tablespoons of Cermark, then I put in 4 TBSPs of Denatured Alcohol.
Good luck,
Barbara

Robert Bosworth
03-17-2006, 2:17 PM
I'm going to chime in with my process. I mix the cermark to about 40% cermark and 60% denatured alcohol (everclear). The bottle from cermark comes about 50% full so I will fill it with everclear then mix it, then use a little bit and top the bottle off again with alcohol. I agree that it should be the viscosity of water. Then I use a small HPLV gun to spray it onto the material. It uses very little cermark, sprays it very evenly, and avoids the brush strokes and waste material that I've found using a brush creates. It also dries very fast and even and can spray hundreds of items in one shot.

I like the idea of recovering the cermark, but for the items that I do it seems like more work than it is worth. Those little bottles of cermark go a long, long way.

Robert Bosworth
www.usedlasers.com