I need some serious spindle recommendations!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

As the market for Official Idaho Salmon Bonkers and Idaho Noggin Knockers doesn't seem to demand much attention on my part as a turner, I decided my first serious project is to be a couple of shaker style candle tables.

John Hart very generously provided some nice sealed cherry 4x4s for the spindles.

And so my questions start for the experienced turners in the group!

1. As near as I can figure using a photo and a cad program, the turned spindle will be about 18" long with a max diameter of 3" and a mininum diameter of 1 1/2"-1 3/4". Will I need to design and build a steady rest for my lathe?

2. What procedure would you recommend for turning these spindles. The cherry is sealed green. Would you recommend turning to a rough size and wait? Turn to a rough size, boil in water, submerge in DNA and then finish turn?

3. I'm going to buy the flat cherry locally for the top and the legs that come off the spindle. How should I handle finishing the dry flat cherry and the somewhat green cherry so they come out looking somewhat matched rather than greatly mismatched? Can this be done?

4. My lathe came with a 6" tool rest. Should I just plan using it and moving it and expect to get a good smooth line on something as big as these spindles or should I build a wood and steel (somewhat adjustable) long tool rest to use to turn these spindles?

I would greatly appreciate any input you might have in helping me determine how to handle this project! I'll have many more questions in the future.

Thanks!

[Andy Hoyt]

Ken - Here's my 2 board feet's worth.

1. As near as I can figure using a photo and a cad program, the turned spindle will be about 18" long with a max diameter of 3" and a mininum diameter of 1 1/2"-1 3/4". Will I need to design and build a steady rest for my lathe?

I wouldn't think so. I've turned a 5/8" cherry spindle for a backscratcher that was about 16" long. Was a little whippy but went slow and easy. Given your thickness, I'd say you don't need it. Yet.


2. What procedure would you recommend for turning these spindles. The cherry is sealed green. Would you recommend turning to a rough size and wait? Turn to a rough size, boil in water, submerge in DNA and then finish turn?

I think I'd stick these in a nice safe place and let them sit til dry. Sorry. Then I'd buy KD stock from the same place I'd get the flat stock for the top. With any luck, it'll match better anyway. But that's me.

3. I'm going to buy the flat cherry locally for the top and the legs that come off the spindle. How should I handle finishing the dry flat cherry and the somewhat green cherry so they come out looking somewhat matched rather than greatly mismatched? Can this be done?

See above. Sorry. Don't fret. Once they're dry, you can use 'em for all sorts of bonkers, noggins, boogeroos, or even hoofpusses.

4. My lathe came with a 6" tool rest. Should I just plan using it and moving it and expect to get a good smooth line on something as big as these spindles or should I build a wood and steel (somewhat adjustable) long tool rest to use to turn these spindles?

Use it and move it. Not that big of a hassle. Besides, there are times on centerwork when it's convenient to out the toolrest off-parallel from the turning axis when you're trying to make an "awkward" cut. And a longer toolrest might pre-empt that possibilty. But again, that's me.

[Lee DeRaud]

...or even hoofpusses.Those are pointed on one end: won't he need a chuck and a steady-rest for those? Break out the credit card... :D :cool:

(Ok, ok, I admit it: I have absolutely no idea what a "hoofpuss" is. :p )

[Jim Becker]

I did not use a steady for the spindle work on my candle stand. It has more than enough meat to avoid the vibration one gets with a thinner spindle.

[Curt Fuller]

Ken, a steady rest seems to just get in the way for me. I use my left hand as a tool steady and steady rest. Just sort of wrap your fingers around the spindle and apply a little pressure to counter the pressure you're applying with the tool. At 11/2" diameter there isn't going to be much wobble anyway.

I agree with Andy on using dry wood. It would break your heart to have your first real fancy project crack.

I don't know exactly what a candle table is but I'm anxious to find out.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Curt........here's my thread from the design forum ....go down through it for some photos of shaker candle or spindle tables http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=31674

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ken I just turned a 3" spindle and it was no problem. I would use dry wood for the spindles. Like was said before I would hate to see it crack later. Move your rest around. You are going to have to move it closer to the stock as you take wood off anyway and it is not that big a deal.