Some times a guy just has to make a stand......

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

..... for my lathe that is :D

OK, I'm heading out to my favorite toy shop........ah........ I mean DIY center, Joyful Honda, and I plan to do some shopping.

The #1 thing on my list is some steel to make up a stand for my lathe.

This is my idea..........

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/lathe_stand.jpg

The exact sizes I've not worked out yet, but it will be maybe an inch longer, on each end, than the lathe is, and the center of the tail and head stocks will be at or about my elbow level.

The sell it in 20' lengths :eek: so I'll be getting them to cut it up for me.....

I'll put it on the floor and get it out from the wall a fair ways, (longer plus some than a long turning tool) then I'll level it with 4 anchors in each leg, by putting an anchor with a nut under the leg, and then one over the leg, so I can adjust the height. Once I'm satisfied with it, I'll build a form around each leg and mortar them in place.

It should make for a very sturdy base for the lathe, and when I move on to something else, it will still serve as a good base for the next lathe.... :rolleyes: ;) :D

What do you guys think?

Cheers!

PS I leave in about 8 or nine hours for the DIY center....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Stu your design looks like it will be stable!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Looks plenty stout to me Stu. I don't believe it will move much. I think you will be fine.

[David Mueller]

Stu,

I like the I-beam approch, The only thing I'd do is widen the base. You can't underestimate the rotational forces from even a small piece. Or you could bolt it to the floor, if that is what you mean by mortoring in place. Just seems small at the base. Good luck.

[Michael Stafford]

I agree with David. I would recommend that on the headstock end you widen the base, make it into an A-frame shape. You could still bolt it to the floor but the A-frame would reduce the tendency of the whole unit to sway under an unbalanced load.

Also make some provisions for adding shim stock or something under the lathe to get it at the most comfortable height. I know all the books say it should be at elbow height but I have found, for instance, that when I am turning boxes I want it higher. For bowls, no doubt elbow height is about the best. Just food for thought.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

OK, so a wider base plate, and some brackets off the top to the base-plate, I can do that!

Here is a crude drawing of how I'll bolt it to the floor....

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/lathe_stand_base.jpg

There will be four of the anchor bolts on each leg..
We use a similar system for the tracks on our rolling shelves in the L shop, there are 4 to 6 shelves on each set of tracks, and there is about 1000 Kg of beer on each shelf (2200 pounds) the track has to be perfectly level, or the shelves will roll to one end (not a good thing) we drill holes for anchor bolts every 12" or so, and then put one nut on each anchor bolt. The track has holes in it that the bolts go through, then we put a nut on top of the track, and make it all level but adjusting the nuts. Once all level and the two tracks are parallel to each other, then fill in under the tracks and make a concrete or mortar base, Rock solid in 12 years of use.

Thanks guys!

Cheers!

[Bill Stevener]

Hi Stu,

Looks good on this end.
Question though. If your new lathe stand is fabricated from structural steal, welded up properly, then bolted securely to the floor and grouted to ensure full contact, what does the box full of sand contribute to the design?

Bill.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:)

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Bill, as I understand it, the sand is there to dampen vibration.

The weight of the sand will be sort of unimportant, you are correct, the the fact that it is heavy, and it is somewhat loose is what will dampen the vibes.

If you take a solid steel hammer and hit it hard on concrete, it will bounce back just as hard, right?

If you take a dead blow hammer, which has loose buckshot in the head, and hit the same concrete as hard, it should not bounce at all, as the loose buck shot take the bounce out.

Maybe I'm not explaining this quite right, but, I'm doing my best to communicate my understanding....

The lathe, the steel frame, and the concrete are all solid, and thus they can flex, and when a vibration sets up in them, the flex can get increasingly worse, the sand is there to absorb the vibrations, so nothing starts to flex.

Again, I may not be explaining that quite right, but I hope you get the idea.

If I'm way off base on this one, I'm fairly sure someone will come along and say so ;) :D

Cheers!

[Bruce Page]

Stu, the only other comment I would make is to make the stand upgradeable just in case you get another lathe down the road - you just never know! ;)

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

My plan is to make it just a stand that another lathe could be placed on later, that if for sure.

Cheers!

[Ernie Nyvall]

Stu, I like the "I" beam construction and as others have mentioned, making a wider base plate. I'd make it at least 18"x the width of the beam, with the bolts in the far corners. You can make an "I" shape in your form so the concrete is not under foot. I wouldn't use mortar as I think it will crumble. Concrete with steel if anything.

Just thinking out loud.

Ernie

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

OK, I went to the Toy store today, and got some stuff.

I ended up with the 10 cm x 10 cm I beam, as the 12.5 x 12.5 stuff had a crown on it, and they only sold it in 6 meter lengths, I needed 2.5 meters.

They had 15 x 15 cm stuff, but it was also only in 6 meter lengths, and freaking expensive!!

They charged me $8 a cut!!! :eek: but the cuts were done on an automated HUGE bandsaw, and the cuts are perfectly square.

Here is a mock up..........

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/mock_up_stand.jpg

I think this should do the trick.

here is the first leg welded up...........

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/first_leg_welded.jpg
I beveled the edges of the steel and cranked the MIG up to the highest settings, worked fine (Nice to have the 200V MIG)

More later!

Cheers!

[David Mueller]

Stu, great idea for the base legs, I think you'll feel safer with the added stability. I'd love to learn to weld. Can't wait till you have it in place and spinning.

[Jim Ketron]

Great looking Stand Stu!
I love building stuff like this! I get as much pleasure making them as I do turning. some people are the opposite and would rather buy stuff like this, But if you take pride in your work what does it matter what medium your creations come from!
Nice Job!

[Bernhard Kühnen]

Good evening Stu,

that looks rock solid.

Two more things I would consider:

a) Vibration protection from your base to the concrete. Otherwhise the whole house has "fun" together with you....

b) althoug I could see that you are a pretty good welder but I believe it is not workable to weld precise up to the mm. So you need something to adjust your lathe on the base

Good luck!

Bernhard

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Well I just about got it done :D ..........

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/lathe_stand_almost.jpg

I have a buddy in town from Canada, and we had him over for dinner at our house, so I was busy most of the evening, but I did get back down to the Dungeon to get it just about done.

I could not finish tonight anyways, something about drilling 8 holes in the concrete floors that the wife did not seem happy about........... at 1 AM.......... :rolleyes: :D

Tomorrow, I'll drill the holes, and put the anchors in, then I'll use the two nut system like I showed above to make the stand level.

Right now, I was just mocking up the motor plate for more work tomorrow, so the lathe is on the stand, but in reality there will be beech blocks between the stand and the lathe, this will allow me to adjust the height, and they will act as sound deadeners.

The Dungeon is in the basement of our 7 floor building, and on either side of the lathe there, you can see the tops of two of the long column that go down into the earth 9 floors in depth, so I don't think I'll be shaking the house, but the noise could be transmitted, which is not good.

I hope to get it done tomorrow!!!

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Stu, great idea for the base legs, I think you'll feel safer with the added stability. I'd love to learn to weld. Can't wait till you have it in place and spinning.

Yep, welding is good :D:D:D

I've sure gotten a lot of use out of my welder, for sure!

I too cannot wait!!

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Good evening Stu,

that looks rock solid.

Two more things I would consider:

a) Vibration protection from your base to the concrete. Otherwhise the whole house has "fun" together with you....

b) althoug I could see that you are a pretty good welder but I believe it is not workable to weld precise up to the mm. So you need something to adjust your lathe on the base

Good luck!

Bernhard
Guten Morgen Bernhard!

The "house" is a 7 floor building, with my workshop in the basement, so I'll not shake the whole house..

I'm an "OK" welder, but certainly not a weldor, or pro. I was pushing the machine to it's limits, I bevel ground where I could to get better penetration on the welds, and even switched to straight CO2 for more heat and more penetration, but really, I should have dug the stick welder out of storage, but I did not, too lazy :o

I'm going to use blocks of Beech between the base and the lathe, this should give me a bit of a sound barrier.

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Great looking Stand Stu!
I love building stuff like this! I get as much pleasure making them as I do turning. some people are the opposite and would rather buy stuff like this, But if you take pride in your work what does it matter what medium your creations come from!
Nice Job!

Hey, I hear you loud and clear, after all, I'm the KING of making stuff to make stuff ;):D

I'm still working on my workshop!!

Cheers!

[Michael Stafford]

That looks like a very fine stand, Stu. Are you going to attach mounting plates on each end where the lathe attaches? There is where you should make the provisions for adjusting the lathe center height for comfort. A most excellent stand!!!:D

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Thanks

The height will be adjusted by the size of the blocks I put in there between the lathe bottom and the bed of the stand.

like this.........
http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/mock_up_stand.jpg
That is the first mock up, the blocks are just chunks of 2x4, but they will be replaced by some chunks of Beech.

Cheers!


Cheers!

[Michael Stafford]

Ooops, I didn't look closely enough at the picture. I see the mounting plates they were just hidden by the lathe. Very nice job, Stu.:D

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I've just about got it done, ran out of time, some people actually want me to deliver beer and such to them (You'd think that they think I run a liquor shop or something ;) )

I got the noisy stuff done, so I hope I can finish up tonight.

One minor problem arose, the belt I bought ended up being a bit too short, and the ones off of Big Blue are too long.

I want to get a link belt, eventually, but for now, I need something else.

I'm going to mount the motor where I want it and then tie a piece of rope around it, so I have a better idea of what length to get.

The lathe stand is off the floor now, by about an inch........

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/bolted_in_place.jpg

and while it is solid, it rings like bell if you hit it with a 3lb sledge hammer.... :rolleyes: (don't ask how I know that)

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/bolts_close_up1.jpg

This method works well, my floor was not even sort of level (which I knew) but the lathe stand is dead on level.

I'll now fill the gap between the floor and the stand with this concrete like stuff, it just mixes up with water, but, it sets hard in 15 minutes and is totally cured in 12 hours or something. It has some sort of epoxy like stuff in it. I've used it before, and it works very well for this. The rolling shelves we have in the L shop were originally installed with just a concrete mortar like stuff, it all cracked and was of little use in about 4 years, I replaced it all with this epoxy cement and it has been nearly 10 years now, and no problems.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/all_bolted_down.jpg

Here the lathe is bolted in place with the Beech blocks on the stand.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/motor_mount.jpg

Here is the motor mount, it is hinged on a plate, the position you see here is not the final one, and the plate is too long right now.

My idea is to have the weight of the motor provide the tension on the belt.
(the stick under the motor in the pic will not be there)

So, any comments?

Cheers!

[John Hart]

I only have one comment Stu....When you decide to do something....You sure go all the way!!!! Nice work!:)

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I only have one comment Stu....When you decide to do something....You sure go all the way!!!! Nice work!:)
Well John, my Grandfather used to say "Why is there always enough time to do it right the SECOND time....?"

He believed in doing it right the first time.

Over the years I've come to see the wisdom in these words. NOT doing it right the first time is just a waste of time.

I'm also very aware of the fact that I'm trying to turn a "Sow's Ear into a Silk Purse" here (not a diss on this or similar lathes, but they are limited), so I'm just trying to maximize what I've got.

I found out my "Live" center is not "Live" but dead, it does not spin round and round, so it burns a hole in the end of the wood....

I have no idea if I can free it up, 48 hours in a can of WD-40 did nothing, next maybe some heat and some lube?

I'll have to buy a new live center, and a new spur thing for the head stock, as well as a chuck, and a linked belt.

All in all I should get a good solid useable lathe that should meet my requirements for some time to come. If I get to the point of this not being enough, I hope that I'll have enough of pile of work to convince the CFO....

Cheers!

[Ernie Nyvall]

I found out my "Live" center is not "Live" but dead, it does not spin round and round, so it burns a hole in the end of the wood....

I have no idea if I can free it up, 48 hours in a can of WD-40 did nothing, next maybe some heat and some lube?



Stu, this is certainly not meant to be belittling, but I know you are new to this, so I have a question about the center. Is it the one that came with the lathe or did you buy it separate as a live center. The reason I ask is that that lathe came with a dead center when they were making them, and it don't free up.

Ernie

[Don Orr]

Your Grandfather obviously had a good influence on you. That thing looks solid. Think it is earthquake-proof?;) Now quit messing around with all that metal and turn some WOOD:D . (Soon as you get your belt that is)

Have fun, Don

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Stu, this is certainly not meant to be belittling, but I know you are new to this, so I have a question about the center. Is it the one that came with the lathe or did you buy it separate as a live center. The reason I ask is that that lathe came with a dead center when they were making them, and it don't free up.

Ernie

It came with it Ernie, so it is not supposed to spin?

Huh, that's why it don't...:o

Well live and learn.

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

While the creek was on hiatus, I've been busy....

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/getting_close1.jpg

I'm in need of a drive belt, and then the sand box, plus some concrete under the legs, but it is getting really close....

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/right_leg_braces.jpg
I felt that if I was going to over do it, I might as well REALLY over do it :D

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/left_leg_braces.jpg
You know the old saying, "Nothing exceeds like excess!" ;)


http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/lathe_dc.jpg

I put a pipe above the lathe, on this I put the bright light, and the DC will go over there for sanding, I may have to change the DC pipe a bit or make an extension, but it should work out OK.

I hope I can get that drive belt today!!

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I've got a question for all the "sand on the lathes" guys and gals out there, bag or no bag?

I might just go without the bags, as I will not be moving this sucker any time soon, and I'd think sand would do it job of dampening the vibrations better if it was loose.

Any thoughts?

Cheers!

[Tim Beauregard]

Stu,

Do you have a shorter tool rest? I am thinking that when you buy and install a pen turning mandrell, your current tool rest may not fit between the headstock and tailstock.

Regards,
Tim B.

[Rich Stewart]

Great stand you got going there. I was wondering about the belt thing. Looks like you could get ANY size belt and just move the motor to fit. I'm not very mechanical minded so this might seem like a stupid question. I've really been enjoying your adventures. I'm wondering if Japanese women are like Chinese women. My Chinese wife gets big time mad at me if I spend too much time in the shop. I get the old, "You love your shop more than you love me?" routine. Haha. She also can't stand the thought of my shop being dirty. Makes her itch just knowing there might be a mess out there. Anyway, thanks for the pictures. I been rootin' for you through this whole process. Can't wait to see what comes off of that lathe.

[Joe Melton]

Stu, I would recommend you make a shelf under the stand, just under the top, as a place to set tools between usage. Also, I would put the light on a articulated arm so you can take it to different locations easily. For example, when doing the inside of a bowl, you will want it almost at table height.
Nice job.
Joe

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Stu,

Do you have a shorter tool rest? I am thinking that when you buy and install a pen turning mandrell, your current tool rest may not fit between the headstock and tailstock.

Regards,
Tim B.

No I do not, that is the only one I have, now.

I'm going to get a shorter one, and, once I find some 22mm round stock for the piece that goes into the banjo, I'll make my own stand, curved ones for bowls etc.

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Great stand you got going there. I was wondering about the belt thing. Looks like you could get ANY size belt and just move the motor to fit. I'm not very mechanical minded so this might seem like a stupid question. I've really been enjoying your adventures. I'm wondering if Japanese women are like Chinese women. My Chinese wife gets big time mad at me if I spend too much time in the shop. I get the old, "You love your shop more than you love me?" routine. Haha. She also can't stand the thought of my shop being dirty. Makes her itch just knowing there might be a mess out there. Anyway, thanks for the pictures. I been rootin' for you through this whole process. Can't wait to see what comes off of that lathe.

There is a sweet spot for the belt length in that too long or too short and the belt hits part of the lathe.

My wife does not mind me being in the shop, as long as I do my other work, so I just don't sleep much ;)

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Stu, I would recommend you make a shelf under the stand, just under the top, as a place to set tools between usage. Also, I would put the light on a articulated arm so you can take it to different locations easily. For example, when doing the inside of a bowl, you will want it almost at table height.
Nice job.
Joe

There is now a piece of steel that goes between the legs, and on that I'm building a sand box, to dampen vibrations. I have left a 4" or so space between the top of said sand box and the top rail of the stand, with the thought of putting turning tools there.

I understand that I'll need a longer arm on the light, I'm looking for an arm off an old desk lamp, I know I have one, but I can't put my hands on it right now!

Cheers!

[Randy Meijer]

33420

I see some sharp corners that look like they could do nasty damage to careless ankles. I would think seriously about padding them somehow or cutting them off at 45° bevels to reduce the risk of injury!!

[Randy Meijer]

.....My idea is to have the weight of the motor provide the tension on the belt.....

I am just wondering...as I really don't know.....if that won't put excess strain on the belt and the bearings in the motor and the lathe?? That looks like a pretty heavy motor?? Maybe a motor mount with a provision for adjusting the belt tension would be a better solution??

[Randy Meijer]

I've got a question for all the "sand on the lathes" guys and gals out there, bag or no bag?

I might just go without the bags, as I will not be moving this sucker any time soon, and I'd think sand would do it job of dampening the vibrations better if it was loose.

Any thoughts?

Cheers!

I don't know the answer to your question; but if you decide to use loose sand or, even if you use bags, be sure to have a trap door in the bottom or side of the box to assist in the removal of the sand should it become necessary. You don't want to be faced with the prospect of scooping out 400 lbs of sand, one cupful at a time!!!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Hey Randy, some great thoughts there, thanks for that!

The motor is not "Heavy" but, I do see your point, a turnbuckle may be in order.

The sharp ankle biters, they will be encased in concrete, but now, for sure the concrete will have 45s on the corners.

Trap door, great idea!

Thanks so much!

Cheers!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

OK, I got the forms off the legs, and the concrete looks OK...

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/concrete_forms.jpg

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/concrete_forms_close.jpg

Forms ON........

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/concrete_forms_off_closeup.jpg

Forms OFF :D

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/80kg_sand_in_box.jpg

I kept the sand in the bags, for now, seems to work fine....??

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/sandbox_done.jpg

There, screwed to the frame, lid on.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/sandbox_tools.jpg

I'll put something on there that will keep the tools from rolling off the sandbox.

I went and got a drive belt that should work, so I hope I'll be making chips soon!

I guess next up will be the sharpening station.

Cheers!

[John Hart]

Something in the back of my mind tells me that you are going to keep building stuff and never turn anything Stu!!!;) :D

Probably a good idea though...Once you start turning, you won't have time for construction! It looks awesome! The Sharpening station is sure to be a treat as well.:)

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Something in the back of my mind tells me that you are going to keep building stuff and never turn anything Stu!!!;) :D

Probably a good idea though...Once you start turning, you won't have time for construction! It looks awesome! The Sharpening station is sure to be a treat as well.:)
Well I hate to tell you that you are wrong, but you are, I'll be making chips tonight!! :D

I do have to make the sharpening stand, as I have a bunch of dull tools....

I have to admit, I do like making things, I really understand that a good, well set up, well thought out workshop, is, next you your own two hands, and brains, the most important tool you will ever own.

I've seen some shops, with a bunch of AMAZING tools, that were very poorly set up and having all these tool hindered work getting done. Not that I've seen any of this type of shop here at SMC... :)

I do agree with you that once I start making a mess, I'll have no time to stop to make jigs and tools, so I should get all of my ducks in a row first!

Cheers!

[John Hart]

Well I hate to tell you that you are wrong, but you are, I'll be making chips tonight!! :D

Cool!!!!


....I've seen some shops, with a bunch of AMAZING tools, that were very poorly set up and having all these tool hindered work getting done....

Sounds like MY shop! Except for the "Amazing Tools" part.:o You are a master Mr. Ablett!

[Mike Ramsey]

Fantastic job Stu!!! Funny reading some of these post mentioning you
might have a problem with this or that...They haven't followed your
escapades very closely me thinks!!:)

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Fantastic job Stu!!! Funny reading some of these post mentioning you
might have a problem with this or that...They haven't followed your
escapades very closely me thinks!!:)

Thanks Mike, but really, I do not mind when people point out the "Obvious", as some times if you are standing too close to your own project, what is/should be "Obvious" can be missed.

I've gotten a lot of good tips here, and I'm sure that I'll get many more!

Cheers!

[Ernie Nyvall]

Man Stu, that really looks great. You certainly covered everything and a good design for anyone in the future needing a lathe bench.

Ernie

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Thanks Ernie, but I had a few more things to do.

I found out that the "I" beam is very strong, but not so laterally, if you push or hit it from the side, it bends fairly easily, so I fixed that..........

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/extra_gussets_headstock.jpg
I put two of them on each side.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/extra_gussets_headstock2.jpg

Makes it a lot stronger, and now when I strike the headstock with my open hand, there is very little vibrations.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/ready_to_make_chips.jpg
There you go, ready to make some chips........

Lets see how it works.

Mini Vid (http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/vids/vibes.mpg) <-right click "Save As"

Well, I got a heck of a vibration on turning a piece of dry ash....

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/making_chips.jpg

Vibrates like all heck.

The tools are sharp, I used them on the little bat I made before...

I'm thinking to remove the wooden blocks from under the lathe, and just bolt the lathe directly to the stand, and attach the motor to the sand box, not hang it from under the stand.

The one other thing I'm thinking of doing is filling the bed, the tube, with sand, I've heard of doing this before to reduce vibrations. I've seen motorcycle handlebars filled with buckshot to reduce vibes...?

Any other ideas guys?

kind of disappointing to say the least...... :(

Cheers!

[John Hart]

Way to go Stu!! All I can say about the vibrations is that the length of your piece might be the cause and not the lathe. It seems that you are coming straight on with your skew too. Did you try a shorter piece and get the same vibrations?

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I'd need a shorter tool rest....... :rolleyes:
It vibed the same with a scraper or the long bowl gouge that Bill Grumbine uses (ground like his) I wanted to try to turn some long handles, as these stubby things suck!

MAN I need a faceplate or a chuck.... :(

Going to have to break down and buy one I guess...

Now.......... which chuck? :D

[Ernie Nyvall]

From your video, it does look like the belt is jumping a bit. From an earlier post you said you were going to let the weight of the motor pull the tension on the belt. Is that still the case or do you hve some way of stabilizing the tension? Usually done with a hinge on one side of the motor and adjusting bolts on the other. That keeps the tension constant, and without it, every little touch to the turning wood will make it jump.

Sure is looking good though.

Ernie

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

From your video, it does look like the belt is jumping a bit. From an earlier post you said you were going to let the weight of the motor pull the tension on the belt. Is that still the case or do you have some way of stabilizing the tension? Usually done with a hinge on one side of the motor and adjusting bolts on the other. That keeps the tension constant, and without it, every little touch to the turning wood will make it jump.

Sure is looking good though.

Ernie

Yes it is just hanging, but even if push down on it with my hand, it still vibrates.....

I'll conduct further investigations....... :D

[doug webb]

Please round the corners. My ankles hurt just looking at them. Great stand.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Please round the corners. My ankles hurt just looking at them. Great stand.

I'll put some foam on them for now, OK? :D

I'm toying with the idea of making a solid block of concrete out of the "feet" on the lathes, would be even more solid, and, would use up a big bag of concrete that I've had laying around the shop for the past few years. The last bag I had eventually went all hard and blockish, so I want to use this one up!

Cheers!

[Glenn Clabo]

Stu,
I watched your video and from what I could make out...I don't think you can blame it all on the structure of your stand. A solid stand will keep the lathe from moving and tend to "dampen" but not do away with vibrations at the source. The structure of the lathe, and maybe the tool presentation appear to me to be where the vibrations are. You seem to be scraping more than cutting which will cause the tool to vibrate.
Try this...set it up the same way and then wedge blocks on each side of your toolrest under the lathe bed (bar on yours), without deflecting the bar too much and see what happens.

[Bart Leetch]

We ran a hing mounted motor under the lathe bench on a similar lathe from the 60's for years with no problem so I think your ok there. The 3/4 HP motor on my Delta lathe is mounted the same way & works fine. I still have the old Craftsman lathe that was my Dad's lathe stored away because I have a 1930's Delta lathe & new Jet mini lathe in the shop.

[Joe Melton]

Stu, maybe the bearings are bad in the headstock. Did you turn it on with no wood mounted?
Some guys swear by those linked belts as a way to get rid of vibration. I've not tried them.
Joe

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Stu,
I watched your video and from what I could make out...I don't think you can blame it all on the structure of your stand. A solid stand will keep the lathe from moving and tend to "dampen" but not do away with vibrations at the source. The structure of the lathe, and maybe the tool presentation appear to me to be where the vibrations are. You seem to be scraping more than cutting which will cause the tool to vibrate.
Try this...set it up the same way and then wedge blocks on each side of your tool-rest under the lathe bed (bar on yours), without deflecting the bar too much and see what happens.
Hi Glenn, thanks for your comments.

OK this is what I did tonight.

I looked around a bit, and I found out one of the rivnuts holding the key-way piece on the bottom of the lathe was missing...............
http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/missing_rivnut.jpg
................ so I replaced it, and found most of the others were loose, so I replaced them too.............
http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/doubled_up_rivnuts.jpg
...........I then doubled up on rivnuts, making the space between half as much.

I put some JB weld in the holes, and then I filled the tube with oily sand (to stop any rust) and made a cap for the one end............
http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/lathebed_plug.jpg


I also found that the tail end tube holder had a very rough casting on it....................
http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/tail_holder_rough.jpg
............. that was not allowing the tail end holder to completely mate with the inside of the tube, so I cleaned that up as well.......
http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/tail_holder_smooth.jpg

I redid the motor mount, using a piece of 2x8 and some hinges, right to the top of the sand box, and I put a turnbuckle on it, to get rid of the belt jump......
http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/new_motor_mount.jpg



The other thing was the chunk of wood I was using was some really gnarly old Ash, so I chucked that, and put in a somewhat green piece of gnarly Akagashi.
http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/nicer_curlies.jpg

There is sometimes a bit of the vibration I had before, but now where near as much.

I fully understand that I do not know how to present the tools to the wood correctly, and that my tools are, for the most part too short, and not the best quality, and not sharpened to the best level.

That is one of the reasons I'm here, to learn and to get these tips and tricks.

When I'm working on the lathe, I have a piece of 2x4 jammed in between the tailstock and the lathe stand, not enough to deflect anything, just to take up the slack.

http://ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/a_fine_mess.jpg
Yep, looking like a fine mess :D

Cheers!

[John Hart]

mmmmm good shavings!!!:) :) :)

[Glenn Clabo]

Okay...not as bad is good. Now we need some of the smart turners to see if you maybe have your tool rest too high and maybe explain better than I can about what/how turning speed affects vibration. Coming from a metal lathe background I tend to put the rest at center and that puts the tool too high. I also know there was a sweet speed spot when I was building my Bonker...and it wasn't always faster.

p.s. - I hope I don't come off as sounding like I know anything about wood turning...cuz I don't. I'm just trying to learn as I go and how it relates to what I know about machinery.

[John Hart]

I drew a pitcher with my lectronic crayons.:)
Sorry...pretty crude.

Top one...you'll get more chatter...which is what I think you're describing....I think....:rolleyes:
33516

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I drew a pitcher with my lectronic crayons.:)
Sorry...pretty crude.

Top one...you'll get more chatter...which is what I think you're describing....I think....:rolleyes:
33516

Yep, I'd say you pegged it right..... :o

There were some bits vibrating on the lathe, they don't move at all now! :D

Now i need to get some more time turning in on it, just making chips, not really doing anything.

Well the first thing I need to do is make new handles for the tools, they are just about big enough to fit both hands on......

Nice long ones are what I'm looking for, better to put the handles into my turning muscle :D

Cheers!

[Don Orr]

Alright Stu- you're making chips. Sounds like you have things under control, mostly, regarding vibrations. Very happy to see you turning some wood after all this. :D
Those old C-Man lathes are actually quite good. I have one and it works just fine. I learned a lot of turning on it. I know they don't get a real good rating but they sure do make the wood go around and around.:)

You're at the edge of the vortex and leaning in-this is just the beginning:eek: .

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

OK, I got my Sharpening Station (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32847) half done, and I have some sharp tools now...

I got on to the skew, and I have to tell you, I did not have one catch, not even close!

I have always been leary of that evil skew, but I really got on it last night.....

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/skew_chips.jpg

Now this is just a chunk of 2x4, nice and soft, but the shaving I'm getting are super thin, and super light, I'm thinking that this is how they are supposed to be!

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/skew_roughing_gouge.jpg

The skew was used on the left, and the roughing gouge on the right.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/lathe/still_making_a_mess.jpg

Yep, still making a mess here...... :D

Cheers!