Desireable Stanleys

[Jim Young]

I've been playing around with old hand planes now for a little less than a year. So far I have figured out Bedrocks are more desireable, pre WWII planes are preferred, sizing and plane components. What i haven't been able to figure out is which "Type" planes are more preferable and why. When I look at the e-bay planes sometimes a plain old plane goes for way more than normal, even with vague descriptions. Is there something that you can see on a valuable plane? Are there certain year ranges that make the plane a more desired collectable?

[Mike Henderson]

I don't consider myself an expert on Stanley planes but here's my comments.

A lot of the price differences in Stanley planes is driven by collectors. For example, some collectors only buy low knob planes, or only those with corrugated bottoms, or only sweetHart planes. From a usability point of view, many people say that the type 11 is the most desirable but I don’t know of particular reason why that’s true.

Also, if you want a Bedrock for use, choose one of the round side Bedrocks – they’re less desirable to collectors – or find one of the “Bedrocks by another name” – a Keen Kutter Kx (where x is a number and not a KKx) or a Vaughan and Bushnell plane. Note that these may be the same as the round side Bedrocks, not the flat side Bedrocks.

If you choose a Stanley Bailey for use, choose a pre-WWII model, smooth bottom. You can also get a much lower price if the plane is “mixed” – if the blade is a replacement or some other part is not original.

Mike

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Michael, I'm no expert and don't own any Bedrocks either, but if I'm not mistaken, the round sided bedrocks adjust just like a regular Bailey plane, you have to loosen the lever cap to move the frog. The square sided Bedrocks can be adjusted with the lever cap in place. That eliminates half the advantage of the Bedrock plane over the standard Bailey.

Jim, the type 11 are the best users based on construction and price, although I can't really tell the difference when I'm useing one. I kinda like the orange frog models from the late 20s early 30s just because of the way they look.

[Dave Anderson NH]

Type 11 Baileys were the first of the Stanleys to have a screw at the rear of the frog to adjust the frog by only slightly loosening the two bolts which held the frog in place. The previous models lacked this adjustment and hence are often considered less desirable. The frog seating is also slightly more positive than earlier models with more surface area. Frankly I find that even the type 9 & 10s are quite good too. After all, how often do you adjsut the position fo the frog.

On a more general note, most versions made between the 1890s and the 1930s are of very high quality and will work very well for almost all users. I sometimes think we forget that the most important feature of a plane is the driver. Even a Holtey infill at several thousand dollars will perform poorly if the user hasn't learned to adjust it, sharpen it, keep it clean, and develop the right technique.

[Maurice Metzger]

Good questions. To add even more questions, is all of it being driven by collectors? There's a lot of interest in Stanley number 7 jointer planes on that large auction site, I'm guessing a lot of it is from users.

Some things I know are based on rarity, such as a number 5 1/4 with a corrugated bottom (!).

Mostly based on cheapness, I've come to own a 5 1/4 and a 5 that are both WWII-era planes, and I like them a lot.

I actually like the bakelite adjustment knobs that were used as substitutes for the brass adjusters - but I was warped by Uncle Sam into disliking all brass...

The castings are also thicker. The painted hardwood tote and knobs are not so great - I'm in the process of stripping and staining mine.

- Maurice

[Mike Henderson]

Dennis is correct that with the round sided Bedrocks you have to remove the blade to adjust the frog. However, what you do get is the full surface inclined ramp connection between the casting and the frog instead of the sort of flat not full surface connection between the frog and the casting on the Baileys. I recommended the round sided Bedrocks to Jim because of the lower price - you give up the ease of adjustment but you get the rock solid connection of the frog to the casting.

Mike

[Richard Niemiec]

I have a few low knob pre-war 3s, 4s, and 5s, and lately I've been picking up WWII era 4s and 5s at fleas and garage sales (Type 17), and after tuning a few up I find them to be as good as the touted Type 11s, and some have frog adjustment screws, some don't, but you don't get rosewood knobs and totes in any of them. I like them because the castings are heavier and more substantial. I must have 5 or 6 of them gathering dust, I just can't resist snagging them when I see 'em.

Rich