Look what a friend gave me, also i need you help!

[Josh Goldsmith]

I recently recieved quite a bit of black walnut from a friend and had to share the pics. The wood is 1 1/4" thick.

http://img393.imageshack.us/img393/9753/picture0439yy.th.jpg (http://img393.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture0439yy.jpg)

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9650/picture0450dk.th.jpg (http://img525.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture0450dk.jpg)

I do have one question though, what is the best way to cut the wood into boards. Since the wood isn't cut exactly straight would it be best to scribe a straight line on the wood then hit it with the band saw, then joint the edge, then to the table saw to cut it down to 8" (which is the size of my jointer), joint the face then finally plane them smooth. Is that the process i need to go or is there a better way. Thanks Josh

[Don Baer]

First of all Great score. I wouldn't us a BS but I would use a TS. If you have a streight edge that is long enough that you can attach to one edge. say with some screw the you can use this againt the fence to cut a streight edge on the othe edge. Mark Singer had a post on doing this using a piece of alum. extrusion in one of his threads with picture. I'll see if I can find it.

Here the thread. It also has a lot more info in it.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=25116&highlight=Mark+Singer+Extrusion

[Mike Cutler]

Nice wood Josh. That's a good friend that you have.
Pieces 3&4 from left appear to be somewhat bookmatched. Is this the case?. I see a really nice pair of live edge tables in those two pieces, if they are.

I'd be really hesitant about being in a hurry to mill that wood. Those are some big pieces of walnut, and not easy to come by, with as little sap wood as they appear to be showing.

If I could talk you into a tool investment. I'd be looking at one of Dino's EZ smart system's, or a Festool egde guide to start the milling, or see if Mark can let you know where to get a piece of that extruded aluminum that he uses.

Once more for the record. Don't be in a hurry to mill that lumber. You'll only get one shot at it.

[Dan Forman]

I would agree with Mike in not being in a hurry. How was it dried, air or kiln? Do you have a way of finding out the current moisture content? Is there any bow in the slabs? If so, by milling (jointing and planing) it into long boards, you will lose thickness to the degree that they are bowed. Might be best to joint and plane after cutting to size for a project. If you do it all now into 8" boards, you will certainly waste a lot of wood, where as if you mill directly into the sizes you need for a specific project, you will maximize what you have. By the way, that sure is a nice looking stash!!!!!

Dan

[Roger Bailey]

I would chalkline from one end to the other as close to one edge as you can and then cut it with a circular saw. Then put that edge on your table saw and move your fence to whatever is usable.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Josh, I think that wood's probably not worth using, and I'd hate to see you muss up all your new tools on that horrid-looking stuff. It's all dark-colored and it's even got a big hole in one of the pieces. There might be other hidden holes or flaws, and that'd be no good, no siree. Since we are California Creeker Brothers and all, I'm willing to take one for the team and rid you of that faulty wood. Bighearted guy that I am, I'd even bring you some square pine or fir boards that you can use right away, without having to go through all the extremely difficult steps necessary to fix those low-grade boards your "friend" pawned off on you.

Just tryin' to help, don'tcha know?

- Vaughn

[Josh Goldsmith]

I will think about it Vaughn;) . It was all air dryed and the mosture content i think was 7-8%. I think i will take your advice on waiting till i start a project. I am so excited to start milling the wood cause I have never worked with black walnut before. Is there any thing i should know about walnut? Do i have to fill the poers when i finish the wood? Thanks for the complements. He still has 40-50, if not more pieces of wood just like this but thicker. I almost drooled when i saw it for the first time. Anyways i will let you all know what i am going to be doing with it.

[Don Baer]

i He still has 40-50, if not more pieces of wood just like this but thicker.


So ah whats this guys name...Phone number etc, comon Josh ya can't keep this to your self....;)

You caan let me know by Private message so we don't ah, clutter up this board...:D

[Julio Navarro]

Makes you wanna move to California! Nice friend , by the way, and the wood aint bad either.

If the peices are very thick, say...over 4" thick, try a cahin saw to "resaw" it square. Take a look at this site from Stu Ablett. He uses a nifty contraption he built.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/csm.htm

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/jackpot/husky/mill_markII_1.jpg

[Michael Pfau]

Very Very nice score, Josh! I am with the other guys, and let it sit for awhile. Get a moisture meter, and let it dry properly. As it goes for milling, I would do your steps exactly! I like the bandsaw for any rough cut wood, because of the safety factor. Really the table saw is the last tool to use. Good Luck!

[Pete Harbin]

Oh man! I'm seeing some really cool natural slab coffee tables right there! Especially the one with the big knothole!

Nice score Josh!

Pete

[Michael Pfau]

Walnut cuts like butter. I built a shaker clock out of it some years ago, and it came out great. I have always used dark walnut stain, to take care of the sap wood, and to even out the color. Then wipe on poly...several coats. You will love it. Here in western Montana, my supplier, has had a tough time getting good walnut. Its all sappy.

[Steve Clardy]

Great friend! Nice score!

[andy Needles]

That wood is from over 100 walnut logs that came out of an orchard near paso robles. The burl guys came through and bought the burls out from under the trees, and he gave away the logs. I have about 200 slabs, all about 4-5ft and 16-20" wide.

Trouble is, I can't get the thicker pieces to air dry, even in CA. I have some 2 inch slabs that still have pockets of 20% moisture, even after 3 years of drying.

Andy Needles