Good CA glue for turning

[Stephen Hibbs]

I made some bracelets for my girlfriend last week, and they both broke this weekend :mad: . I am thinking I have to both make them thicker, and start using CA glue to help hold them together better. What brand and thickness of CA glue would you guys recommend for pens and bracelets and whatnot? Also, do you apply it with little cloths, just like poly, or is there another way?

[Bernie Weishapl]

On my pens Stephen I use the thin CA. I use a piece of paper towel not fold and wear those rubber finishing glove. Saves a lot of cleanup off the hands.

[John Hart]

Stephen....I was thinking along the lines of the Epoxy/DNA solution. I bet it would soak deep and give the overall piece the strength you're striving for. Merely a supposition of course!:)

[Keith Christopher]

Stephen....I was thinking along the lines of the Epoxy/DNA solution. I bet it would soak deep and give the overall piece the strength you're striving for. Merely a supposition of course!:)

I have to agree with John here. CA will wear much faster than expoy. CA is susceptible to water penetration also. While it goes on well and all it still will wear faster. However that being said you will have to get a non-yellowing expoy. When subjected to UV light most epoxies will yellow. cueconcepts sells an epoxy that will not yellow. might be worth checking out if you go this route.


Keith

[Stephen Hibbs]

Well, I was actually going to put poly over the CA. Is this a good idea or will it cause some sort of weird reaction/not have any effect? The plan was some CA to strengthen and then poly for the coat that deals with wear and tear. I thought the inherent strength of the poly would do the trick, but it appears to have failed me, unless it is just a matter of thickness, which I will also increase. Also, while I have your attention, will polyeurethane finish be enough for a flower vase, or is there something more substantial (like that fishing rod stuff) that I should use?

[Curt Fuller]

You didn't mention whether they were made from well dried wood or something green or whether the were end grain or side grain. But I think a bracelet shape would be very prone to cracking if it were green at all and/or turned from endgrain.

[Andy Hoyt]

Is this the bracelet?

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32409&d=1140497375

[Stephen Hibbs]

well, as it so happens it's both, and from somewhat knotty juniper to boot, so not the best wood for it, although it is really nice looking. Would that cheap generic super glue they sell at home depot do the trick decently, or will that be too thick/thin/crappy for use on wood?

Thanks for all the help guys, I'm slowly working my way up to finding the right finish. My goal is to make bowls for eating, a vase or two for flowers, and pens and jewelry, so I want to find a coverall finish for as many of these options as possible.

[John Hart]

Stephen, the problem I see with CA is the fact that it is water-soluable. I fear that it'll break down over time...which is why I suggested Epoxy/DNA. Not that I have a lot of experience with it, but, it soaks in just as good as CA and carries the characteristics that lead me to believe that it'll be long lasting.

On the Vases...I've been thinking about this a lot lately and wanted to come up with a finish on the inside that would stand up to the drenched environment of fresh cut flowers. My thoughts are leaning toward Marine Epoxy of some kind. I'm on the lookout for a clear coat that is used on boats that I can roll around the inside of a vase and also put a nice finish on the outside. Still lookin'.:)