A Veneer Question

[Jon Farley]

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I recently posted a question on Sawmill Creek about wood movement on a church altar I am going to build (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=31941 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=31941)). I received several suggestions that I consider doing a veneered top to avoid wood movement issues that could wreck the mitered edge molding. This really got me thinking that veneer might be the way to go. The problem is that I have no veneering experience, though I've been reading up on it on the web as much as possible over the last couple days.

If you look at picture (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32723&d=1140908245) of the present altar, you can see that the table top sits slightly proud of the molding that surrounds it. So, my question is this: Can I make my own edge-glued veneer about 1/8" or 3/16" thick and then glue it to MDF...then after cutting this top to its final size (it will be an octagon shape), attach all the mitered molding pieces, letting about 1/16" of the veneer sit proud of the molding, just like the old altar?

Am I on the right track? Am I missing something? Is this a workable solution when it comes to the table top wood movement/mitered molding problem?

[john lawson]

John:

I would edge band the MDF first with a hardwood, say 1" wide, to match the veneer. The apply the veneer. Last, I would use a roundover bit to relieve the top, as your picture shows.

Attached is a top I did last year.

john lawson

[Bob Swenson]

Yes- but make sure that you veneer the back of th MDF too.

[tod evans]

jon, resawing your own veneer is a good idea for a first go-round, especially if you use 1/8-3/16. i like baltic birch better than mdf, but mdf will work. be sure to edge band with solid stock as john suggested and also veneer the back as bob suggested...02 tod

[Jon Farley]

Tod, first of all I sent you an e-mail with the same basic question, but afterward decided to post it on this forum so please disregard the e-mail.

Anyway guys, is it abslolutely necessary to edge band the top as well? I was thinking of veneering the top (and apparently the bottom now as well), then gluing on the molding around the side, leaving about 1/16" of the top sitting above the top of the molding in order to copy the original altar's design.

Is there something flawed in this approach?

I realize that routing the profile would be good, but I'm concerned about two things:

First, because it will be an octagon shape, I'm concerned about possibly rounding off the corners, when I really want to achieve nice crip angles, which miters would do. I guess this is no real biggie, though.

Second, and more importantly, below the edge molding there will be three more layers of various moldings tapering down the side of the apron. These will of course have mitered joints and I was thinking it would look better for the top's edge molding to also have mitered joints in order to match and line up with those below. Thanks...Jon

[john lawson]

John, you asked

"Anyway guys, is it abslolutely necessary to edge band the top as well?"

In my opinion, yes it is; for a couple of reasons. First, with either MDF or plywood (which is what I used) there is risk of the difference in the veneer and substrate being visible when you finish the top with the router or roundover bit. Second, the MDF is very stable as a substrate, but it is very fragile or friable if exposed to any type of abrasion or wear, such as hands rubbing it. With use you could expect it to start showing up pretty quickly. Think about all the effort that goes into making a veneered top, that is where everyone's eyes will go when looking at the piece. It's worth the extra time.

My $02

john lawson