Framing Question

[Eric Shields]

I have just completed the sketch/drawing/design for the framing for my shop space renovation. Drawing everything out allows me to figure the best way in which to approach, calculate costs, and simply pass time until I can afford the materials to execute the phase (the save then buy budget plan). My question pertains to the soffit that will cover the I beam that runs the length of the shop and the HVAC ducting. Should I use 1 or 2 x2, x3, x4 or something else for the frame? I am planning on finishing this with drywall and do not see anything aside from electrical boxes (for overhead lights) and possibly DC ducting at a point or two, being attached to it. So it is not like it will be supporting any weight like my walls will be (eventually with cabinets, etc).

Your advise is kindly appreciated in advance.

Happy SawDust

Eric

[Per Swenson]

Hello Eric,

I am a firm believer in metal framing in non load bearing apps.

I would be for it for load bearing, residential ,but that is not

allowed in the NJ code. Yet.

Metal framing is faster, cheaper, and wont warp or twist.

http://www.bobvila.com/VideoLibrary/Subject/Framing/Metal/

I hope this helps.

Per

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Eric,
If you are looking to stick frame then drywall, I recommend 2x3. Things can get a bit spindly though. But...

...I have a better recommendation: use 1x2 (actual=3/4 x 1-1/2) outlined on a 1/4 CDX plywood and build a simple three sided boxes. You won't have to worry about racking, or getting the studs plumb and level. It also makes for a smaller fitting soffit box than stick built. Plus it reduces future cracking at the drywall seams.

Make the panels on the ground, then assemble them in the overhead. Or make the entire enclosure on the ground, then lift into place. I'm a bit ashamed to admit this...but I learned this from Home Time television show about 15 years ago. :o

cheers, Jeff

[Eric Shields]

...I'll be using resilient channels to secure the drywall and have some type (need to research) of insulation for sound reduction inside the soffit.

Eric

[Jim Becker]

I'm with Per...metal for anything overhead...I did that in the basement I finished at my previous residence and it was a piece of cake to work alone. Had I been using wood, I would have needed a helper SO many times...

Metal is quicker and cheaper, too...