Storing Blanks

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Hi all.

I've got over 20 bowl blanks cut, and over 150 pen blanks cut. What I've done is to cut them to size (1"x1"x6" pen blanks, and round and somewhat flat on both sides for bowl blanks) and I've put a heavy coat of wax on them, then stacked them where the wax can dry.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/round/50_pen_blanks.jpg
Just to keep Tyler happy.... ;)

I'm thinking of wrapping up the pen blanks in stacks of say 20 each in brown paper, and wrapping each bowl blank individually, mainly to keep them clean.

How long will these blanks "Last" before I should use them? I know the sooner the better, but what am I looking at for a time span?

Also with the pen blanks and pen turning in general, where do I find more info on this subject?

Cheers!

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

The only problem I see is that, if you totally seal the wood in wax, how can it dry?

On pen blanks, I just dip the ends not more than 3/4" up the sides. This allows the wood to dry out through the sides. If I'm in a hurry, I don't seal them at all, just put them in a microwave oven on 20% for 2 minutes. Check the blanks. Are they hot? if so, let them cool down, then do it again. If, when you touch them, after a 2 minute treatment, they are NOT hot, they are dry and you can just put them on the shelf till you want to turn them.

If you want the bowl blanks to dry, All you want to cover is the end grain and about 1/2 to 3/4" up the sides. This will let them dry out slowly.

Just MHO, but it works for me.

For information on pen turning, PM me and i'll give you what you need.

Bruce

[Cecil Arnold]

Stu, I've had anchorsealed bowl blanks begin to crack in a month or two when stored in my garage. I think what Bruce said on the pen blanks is the best way for them (3/4" wax on the ends) so if you should run into problems with the bowl blanks you can send them to me rather than see them go to waste.;) :)

[Frank Parker]

I agree with Bruce after I cut them round I seal them all around the edge and then I sticker them like lumber like the first picture, but I mostly turn green so I don't care if their wet, I just don't want them to crack so I store them like the second photo.
Frank

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Well I've already waxed the pen blanks, so that is done. The next batch, I'll do just the ends.

This is not "AnchorSeal" but wax........

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/finishes/briwax.jpg

I have not found anything better than this stuff, not cheap either, but then again, them blanks will be hard to replace, so it is worth the effort.

The steel mesh shelves look like a good idea!

Cheers!

[Cecil Arnold]

Stu, get yourself some paraffin candles, melt them in a can and dip the pen blanks. The Briwax won't cut it. Save it for finishing something.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I guess I should have asked before I did this..... :o

[John Hart]

I'm with the others on the pen blanks...Just the nature of pen turning warrants getting them dry. The bowl blanks need to be preserved differently. I have dealt with cracking quite a bit and I gotta tell ya....It is the most disappointing feeling you can imagine to watch all your beautiful wood crack before your eyes, and there's nothing you can do about it.

My suggestion is to seal the bowl blanks completely and store them in a dark semi-cool place. Some folks say that you should seal just the ends...but if you do, be sure to seal the faces a little bit up from the ends as well because you'll lose moisture at the corners and this will cause a small crack...Which turns into a big crack....and there ain't no stoppin' it.

Just looking at your volume of wood Stu, and the fact that you are just starting out turning suggests that you'll be storing these for a long time. I'd seal em up good with anchorseal.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I'm with the others on the pen blanks...Just the nature of pen turning warrants getting them dry. The bowl blanks need to be preserved differently. I have dealt with cracking quite a bit and I gotta tell ya....It is the most disappointing feeling you can imagine to watch all your beautiful wood crack before your eyes, and there's nothing you can do about it.

My suggestion is to seal the bowl blanks completely and store them in a dark semi-cool place. Some folks say that you should seal just the ends...but if you do, be sure to seal the faces a little bit up from the ends as well because you'll lose moisture at the corners and this will cause a small crack...Which turns into a big crack....and there ain't no stoppin' it.

Just looking at your volume of wood Stu, and the fact that you are just starting out turning suggests that you'll be storing these for a long time. I'd seal em up good with anchorseal.

Thanks for the info, I would be using AnchorSeal if I could find it here, I've not yet found it.

I asked the hardwood importers what they paint the ends of board with, they said "paint the ends of boards......?"...........

Cheers!

[John Hart]

Thanks for the info, I would be using AnchorSeal if I could find it here, I've not yet found it.

I asked the hardwood importers what they paint the ends of board with, they said "paint the ends of boards......?"...........

Cheers!

Yeah...they're probably suggesting latex paint...maybe thinned a bit. I do know that they ship Anchorseal internationally. Within the US, shipping is free, but I doubt that it's free to Japan.:(
The 5 gallon pail goes a long long way. Here's their site...maybe they can help. https://www.uccoatings.com/uccoat.php

[Jim Dunn]

Stu, to bad about using all that Brix wax in the manner you used it. I was going to buy a can for finishing on the lathe and at $13.00 a can I passed.

[Jim Dunn]

Here's their site...maybe they can help. https://www.uccoatings.com/uccoat.php

Stu and John I clicked on the above link and noticed that there is a PRC flag shown first. If the stuff is in China isn't that somewhat closer to Stu than the U.S.?? Also noticed a VietNam flag, I think, so it's in the area:eek:

[Barbara Gill]

I have soaked 3" rounded blanks for rolling pins in alcohol with good success. It would probably work well for the pen blanks.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Yeah...they're probably suggesting latex paint...maybe thinned a bit. I do know that they ship Anchorseal internationally. Within the US, shipping is free, but I doubt that it's free to Japan.:(
The 5 gallon pail goes a long long way. Here's their site...maybe they can help. https://www.uccoatings.com/uccoat.php

Me thinks you misunderstood what I was saying.

The Hard wood that I get does not have any painted ends at all, they were curious why I would want to paint the ends of the boards.

The wood I bought was all kiln dried, maybe that is why?

Dunno.

I sent the AnchorSeal guys an e-mail but no response so far.

I've searched the web, but I've not found it here.

I'll go to some of the Japanese guys turning sites and see what I can figure out.

The Brix wax was put on heavy, and not wiped off, it seems to have a nice thick coating, kind of waxy........ ;) :D

Cheers!

[John Hart]

oops...yep...I misunderstood.:o If it's kiln dried, there's no need to paint. The whole idea is to seal the wood so it doesn't lose moisture unevenly, causing the different internal wood densities to shrink at different rates...causing cracks.

I've never had luck emailing the anchorseal folks....but they respond to phone calls real well. Maybe you'll have better luck.;) :)

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I've never had luck emailing the anchorseal folks....but they respond to phone calls real well. Maybe you'll have better luck.;) :)

Great, so now I can add international phone calls to my "Turning Budget"........great............:(

I don't know why companies have e-mail if they don't respond to it.....