Problem With Drill Press....

[Corey Hallagan]

Went to use my drill press tonight by using a mill bit for pen blanks and it worked for the first 10 seconds and turned it off, went to turn it back on and it just hummed. Turned it on again and it ran, then it wouldn't run unless I started it by hand, and now it just won't turn at all. It is a Craftsman floormodel about 12-13 years old that has seen pretty light duty. It just sits and humms so I just shut it off. Suppose it is the motor, or maybe the switch, a relay? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Corey

[Brian Hale]

Possibly the capacitor?

[Corey Hallagan]

Brian, I know nothing about electronics or do not have tools to test the electronic's. I just wouldn't know.

Thanks,
corey

[Brian Hale]

I'm right there with you buddy! It's just something i heard before and thought i'd toss it out. I'm sure someone will correct me...... :rolleyes:

Brian :)

[Allen Bookout]

Heck Corey,

Just buy a new high capacity, powerful, floor model one with variable speed. I hate to be the only one spending money around this place!!!

If it is anything more than the capacitor I would think twice about buying a new motor to fix it up. I did that with an old drill press and by the time I spent $140 on a new motor and $60 on a new chuck I was two thirds of the way to buying a new Delta 16 1/2" which I ended up doing anyway because the bearings were going on the old unit anyway. Just wasted the first $200 except for having the motor for something else.

Allen

[Norman Hitt]

Cory, I'd most likely bet it's not the switch, but that is one thing you could check without any electrical tools. Just unplug it and trace the wire to the switch and disconnect all three wires from the switch, then connect a male three prong plug to the wires you disconnected from the switch and plug that into an extension cord that will reach to your outlet and plug it into the outlet. If it runs, it was the switch that is bad, but if not, most likely a start capacitor or something else in the motor.

Good luck.

[Jeff Horton]

I have seen that before and I would bet it is the capacitor. If you can turni t on and give it a spin by and hand and it runs, that is mostly likely the problem. Capacitors are failry cheap and easy to replace.

JUST REMEMBER THIS!! Even thought the power is off the capacitor can store a BIG charge in it. Give it at least an hour off and unplugged before you remove it. I would just leave it unplugged over night (over kill but thats a good thing) and remove it the next morning. Take it with you and buy a replacement. I bet it will work fine.

[Steve Clardy]

Hums. Sounds familiar with craftsman stuff.
Blow out the end of the motor, where the centrifugal switch is located. It fills with dust, dirt, and sticks.

[Craig Stueve]

Corey,

I don't know if this will help but...

There is a nice Delta floor model (17-900 I think) for sale in Omaha that I saw tonight for $125 or $150. I wasn't BS shoping tonight so I didn't pay that much attention to it. It did however look to be in good shape from what I saw.

PM me IF you would like the guy's # or more info. I have to work tonight so it will be tomorrow AM sometime before I can get back with you.

Craig

[Bob Wingard]

I'll go with Steve .. .. .. centrifugal switch is probably the culprit. If not, possibly the starting cap. .. .. . but most likely the cent. switch.

[Corey Hallagan]

Where would I go to get a capacitor if I can get to it? Also Steve, is the centrifical switch on the bottom or up on the shaft end? Thanks for the help guys.

corey

[Steve Clardy]

Where would I go to get a capacitor if I can get to it? Also Steve, is the centrifical switch on the bottom or up on the shaft end? Thanks for the help guys.

corey

On the bottom Corey

[tod evans]

Hums. Sounds familiar with craftsman stuff.
Blow out the end of the motor, where the centrifugal switch is located. It fills with dust, dirt, and sticks.

this sounds like the right answer to me. most drill presses use an open-dripproof motor and are prone to this type of behavior. it`s really a pretty easy fix....02 tod

[Tom Pritchard]

Where would I go to get a capacitor if I can get to it? Also Steve, is the centrifical switch on the bottom or up on the shaft end? Thanks for the help guys.

corey

Hi Corey, sorry to hear you're having trouble. Before you do anything drastic, log onto Sears Craftsman tools and look under parts for your drillpress model #. You could see how much a new capacitor would be. Hate to see you spend money to replace something you already have! Good luck.

[Corey Hallagan]

Well guys, I blew out the motor real well, took off the little access door on the bottom etc. Turned it on and she would just hum. Did it once more and she started to smoke and then.. she was gone. Looks like the motor is done to me. Have to figure out what I want to do now. Dang, just when I am really using the drill press quite a bit!
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Corey

[Steve Clardy]

Well dag nabbit Corey, ya let the smoke out of it.:eek: :rolleyes:

Do I see some soon to be shopping for a new one?:D

[Allen Bookout]

Well Corey----One of the few things that I can think of that it is good to see smoke when you are using electricity is if you happen to be welding. That's to bad! Allen

[Frank Hagan]

Was it a blast of very black "smoke"? I've had capacitors blow like that ... its carbon dust or something. If it was the acrid grey smoke, the motor is probably fried.

I found a "farm duty" motor for my drill press that's a dream; totally enclosed so dust can't get in, and it was $129 from Electric Motor Warehouse (I actually found it at Amazon.com).

[Jerry Bittner]

Don't know your area but around here I turn to a guy who rebuilds electrical motors. Sometimes its cheaper especially if it is one of the fields and othertimes he'll tell me its cheaper to buy another motor.

Usually these guys have motors available cheaper than conventional retailers and often a used model that can be adapted for your use.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

A general comment about motors, starting capacitors and centrifigal switches.

The reason for a starting capacitor is to phase shift one leg of the ac going to the motor to cause the motor start in a specific direction.

The capacitor is connected via a centrifigal switch. Once the motor gets up to speed spinning in the correct direction, the capacitor is no longer needed ....the centrifigal switch opens up once the motor reaches it's normal operating RPM. The switch removes the capacitor from the circuit.

A number of things can cause the motor to NOT start and HUM:

1. The capacitor can go bad.....(short or open)
2. The centrifigal switch can not function
3. The motor can go bad.

If I were in the Corey's original predicament here's the scenario I'd use to try to fix the problem without burning up the motor.

1. Remove power from the motor.....Unplug it!

2. a. Disassemble as necessary to blow out potential debris and blow out the motor.
b. Momentarily....Momentarily reapply power to the motor....no rotation...humming.....turn off power to the motor and dicsconnect power.

3. Often the cause of the is a bad capacitor. If the capacitor is shorted, you'll probably be tripping a circuit breaker, so you can probably eliminate that as a possible cause. The capacitor can, however, be open and it will not function. To eliminate it, the cheapest and easiest method is to replace it. You can get replacements at appliance repair facilities and electrical supply houses. Just remember to disconnect power from the tool ; I repeat....Disconnect power from the tool.....either unplug it or throw the circuit breaker. Make yourself a drawing of the capacitor....what color wire goes to which lead. Make notes on the drawing of the lead designation....a square, triangle...a circle will usually mark each lead and the color of the wire going to each lead so you get it wired back correctly. Most capacitors have 2 leads attached to them or one lead and the 2nd is the metal shell of the capacitor bolted to the grounded metal case of the tool. Using a screwdriver, short the 2 leads of the capacitor together for at least 6 seconds or in the case of a 1 lead capacitor short the 1 lead to the grounded metal case of the tool before removing. Remove the capacitor and get a replacement. Even though you discharged the capacitor, treat the old one and the replacement as though they were charged....they can be and people have been shocked by them.......it's unpleasant! Using the drawing you made, install the replacement and momentarily apply power to the tool. Problem fixed? Great........motor still hums and doesnt' turn.....take it to a professional repair facility.

The important point to make.....if the motor is humming and not turning......whether it's the capacitor, the centrifigal switch or the motor....when it's not turning but power is applied ....the motor is drawing more current than when it's functioning and IT IS GOING TO BURN UP!

As Tod Evans says.........just my 02!

[tod evans]

thanks ken! well explained. the only thing i`ll add is on woodworking equipment the contacts of the switch can become covered in gunk causing the switch to not function. i`ve had no luck with commercial circuit cleaner but have had very cood luck with fine emery cloth. lot`s of these headaches can be avoided by simply blowing out your open motors when you clean the shop. and as ken says if you`re not comfortable working on motors take `em to a pro....02 tod

[Corey Hallagan]

Ken, I blew out the motor really well, hit the switch twice for about 5-7 seconds and the second time she smoked. A replacement motor will cost about 180.00 dollars from Sears. Will have to look around. I may just go with getting a bench top as that will free up some much needed space. Will see.
Corey

[Randy Meijer]

You should be able to buy a decent motor for a lot less than $180,


Try a local motor shop and see if the can rebuild it. May be cheaper than buying a new motor and you won't have to worry about pulleys and getting the correct frame.


For $180, you can get a decent quality brand new drill press. There is a Harbor Freight store right across the river in Omaha.