Dust Collector Remote Finished

[Marty Baucom]

I finally finished my dust collector remote and it works like a champ. My days of walking over to turn the DC on are over. I am going to use some velcro and stick the remote on the table saw fence so I can keep up with it. Let me know what you think or would like instructions on building your own.

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[Les Spencer]

Looks very professional. What do you estimate the cost to be? Is it 220v?

[Bart Leetch]

Maybe I am missing something but I don't understand why some people build a remote when its so easy to buy one & their not very expensive. Please explain.:confused:

[Jim Becker]

Very nice, Marty.
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Bart, most of the commercial solutions have limitations...either on what they will really handle or in life. (I blew out three X10 modules with my Oneida system which gets expensive over time) Using a contactor is much more reliable as you can size the device to fit the real needs of the DC while using inexpensive devices to control the power flow. In fact if you want wireless, you can use a very, very cheap "Xmas light" control to flip the switch for a monster 240v many horsepower system using an appropriately sized contactor...or even low voltage switches in parallel. (Me...I use a 1.59 single pole 120v switch centrally located in my shop to control my $25 contactor)

[Marty Baucom]

Les I have approximately $50.00 in all the parts you see in the pics and it is wired for 110v. Bart the reason I built one is I used a contactor that is specifically designed to handle the high inrush current of dust collector motors or any electrical motor. I have a Harbor Freight DC that probably draws close to 15 to 18 amps on start up. Most dust collectors you buy commercially if you will notice are VERY small, which means they are using a relay instead of the contactor. It isn't that the home made remotes are better it is they are more durable for the purpose they are designed to do. Hope that clarifies why I made mine. Maybe some of the electrical gurus here at the creek might have a better explanation.

[Carl Crout]

I teach electronics for a living but I didn't build my own. My 2 hp Oneida commercial came with a X10 and it has worked fine for over a year. I would rather woodwork than build elec. projects.:)

[Art Mulder]

I see the comments about the X10 remotes and inrush current... but what about something like the "Long Ranger" which is about $50, which is exactly what Marty spent on this thing?

(If you *want* to build it, that is fine. I'm just with Bart on wondering if the custom approach is *better* somehow.)

[Jim O'Dell]

Marty, very nicely done. It looks like you used a plastic box instead of metal. Any pros or cons to doing that? All the others I have seen home built before had the metal boxes. Thanks for the pictures! Jim.

[Russ Massery]

I know of 2 people who bought the "long ranger". They both blew out with months of each other. They only last a little longer than 6 months. I'm building my own also.

[Bruce Page]

I know of 2 people who bought the "long ranger". They both blew out with months of each other. They only last a little longer than 6 months. I'm building my own also.
I've had my Long Ranger (110v) for at least 6 years. It hasn't blown out yet.

Great looking job Marty it looks very prof.

[Marty Baucom]

Carl I agree that the time spent building my remote could be better spent woodworking. My other hobby happens to be electronics so this was a very enjoyable project for me as is woodworking. Art the long ranger from penn state industries probably still uses a relay instead of a contactor, which there are many relays with high voltage and current ratings, which the contacts do not have the durability of the contactor (my opinion only) I also don't think either is "better" I just enjoyed building it. I think Oneida is doing something similar with the remotes they are including with their cyclones now. Jim the reason I used a plastic box was just by chance. I was browsing in the local ***** and saw this box and it had more working room than the metal boxes. Also I didn't like the thought of cutting metal to install the outlet. I am not an electrical engineer but I would think metal would have been the better choice since I could have grounded the box. Hope that answers everyones questions.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Marty..Everytime you press that darn button, my garage door opens!

Anyway, I tried my hand at electronics and never mastered it. In fact, I never minored it either. In my home shop, I hard wired a switch near each machine that activates a homemade relay panel that my dust collector is plugged into. But this system also activates homemade electric dampers that open the air flow to each machine. If I didn't have this requirement, I would probably have something like your gizmo. Or perhaps, try to have something like your gizmo.

thanks for sharing...

-Jeff :)

[Steve Clardy]

I built mine also. Followed Dennis and Tylers instructions.
I couldn't use a purchased remote, as I have a 4HP motor on my collector.
Lone Rangers are for 3hp, and when I did find one to run my system, I didn't feel like paying $250.00 for it.

[Norman Hitt]

Very nice, Marty.
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(Me...I use a 1.59 single pole 120v switch centrally located in my shop to control my $25 contactor)

Jim, I think I like your solution best, as you don't have to worry about someone's stray signal turning it on or off. I wouldn't mention this, Buuuut....a couple of days ago while my WW Buddy and I were here in the computer room, our New TV in the Den, turned itself on somehow about 2 minutes before my wife came in the front door. We finally figured out that somehow, when she hit the remote to lock her new car, it turned the TV on. Talk about stray electrons,.........Sheesh.:confused:

[Andy Hoyt]

Okay I give in. I want one for my 2HP 220 volt hardwired and hardswitched Oneida.

I've searched for the original thread and have come up dry.

Thanks.

[Chris Padilla]

http://www.beautifulwood.net/dcremote.html

This is from Dennis Peacock's site and I followed it to the letter. This stuff is pretty simple once you get one in your hands.

Guess what? Now I'm replacing the two 24-hour mechanical timers that control my pool pumps with, get this, SPRINKLER timers! Yep, they put out a 24 V signal and I picked up two contactors that have a 24 V coil (input) and can handle the 240 V the two pumps require. Now I can run my pool pumps every other day instead of every day.

[David Less]

Some of the most rewarding projects is home built tools and similar stuff I've built. It is a nice feeling to be able to build this stuff totally in my own shop.

I don't think anybody sells a remote that can handle a 5HP DC. (30 amp)
My $.02

David

http://gallery.clearvuecyclones.com/albums/Custom-Built-Godzilla-Cyclone/DSC01119.sized.jpg

http://gallery.clearvuecyclones.com/albums/Custom-Built-Godzilla-Cyclone/DSC01117.sized.jpg

[Tyler Howell]

Maybe I am missing something but I don't understand why some people build a remote when its so easy to buy one & their not very expensive. Please explain.:confused:
Why do people build wood projects when they can buy one or rebuild vintage saws when a new one is availble?

[Tyler Howell]

Well Done Marty:cool: !
Dave I like the looks of yours too. Love that big panel light;) .
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10122&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1129057881 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=10122&d=1094475223)
I hard wired mine into a dedicated ckt bkr and extended a dedicated outlet to the back room via EMT where the DC will eventually rest. I'll have to pull it if I move. It's safe but my local inspector didn't want it to stay around when I'm gone. But that's OK I ain't moving these machines:o .
I've only got a few bucks into mine. The rest I got dumpster diving.

[Andy Hoyt]

Chris - Thanks. Never thought to look at Dennis' site. Doh!

[Michael Adelong]

Why do people build wood projects when they can buy one or rebuild vintage saws when a new one is availble?

Haha... You beat me to it.

I was thinking "Why would we build {insert: chairs, bowls, cutting boards, book shelves, tables, doors, etc...} when we can go buy them all over the place at low prices with no time insvestment, and no shop cleanup ;) ?".

Both WW and electronics are hobbies of mine, so I'll be giving this a try if my DC ever gets more than 15 feet from my machinery. I'm still young and agile enough :) (42) to do a few extra laps around the shop each night.

My question to the original poster is why didn't you make a nice box out of wood for that remote setup? You could have put a metal box inside of it to keep it kosher with the NEC. Maybe some nice curly maple with a scrolled purple heart "Warning - High Voltage" inlay on the door. Good opportunity to inlay a fancy lightning bolt on something. I always wanted to do that, but I just can't think of a jewelry box motif to support it. The girlfriend said "I don't care how mch thought, time, or love you put in it. If you put a lightning bolt on it, it's fire wood.". Jeesh... Women. No sense of adventure. :rolleyes:

Michael

[Brad Townsend]

Another advantage to building your own is that you can get a contactor and wire it for either 110 or 220. I currently use 110, but plan to upgrade to something larger someday. If I used a Long Ranger, I would have to go out and buy another one.

[Mac McAtee]

I just got a new Penn State catalog. Right in the front of it is a new heavy duty remote start unit for dust collectors. It can be used for 220v single or 220 and 440V three phase. It also has a postitive stop button so you can turn off the power when leaving the shop, that is so someones garage door opener doesn't start up your dust collector in the middle of the night.

[Mac McAtee]

Okay I give in. I want one for my 2HP 220 volt hardwired and hardswitched Oneida.

I've searched for the original thread and have come up dry.

Thanks.

Andy,
Look for Penn State Item No. LR2244. It sounds just like what you are looking for.
Mac

[Mac McAtee]

If you can pick up a standard motor starter from a junk yard of surplus electrical stuff outlet, ebay or what have you, that is sized for the motor you want to run all you need do is:

Put a 110v coil in the starter. Power the coil with one of those 10X remote switches that use the push button deivce to activate them. I bought a 6 pack of the push buttoners on ebay for something around $20. I have them hanging on sash chain from the overhead near all the machines that I dust collect. I can turn the thing on or off from anyplace in my shop by simply reaching up and pushing a button.

[Rob Russell]

Marty,

Looks good. I'm curious as to why you used a 20 amp receptacle and a 15 amp plug?

Rob

[Marty Baucom]

Rob I couldn't find a 20 amp plug where I was shopping. After using the remote for a week I have decided to switch the power cord for a longer one and will switch out the plug with a 20 amp version. Good observation.