I've got a few questions about base cabinets for my kitchen

[Jeff Monson]

I've got my uppers completed and am ready to start with the lowers, and I have some questions as the 3 books I have all use different ways,

1. what is a standard toe kick dimensions

2. what is the best base, adjustable legs, a seperate base or a base that is part of the sides.

3. I'm using 3/4" maple ply for the sides and bottom and 1/2" maple ply for the backs, so what should I use for the cleats to mount the counter top and how should they be attached and what width should I make them?

4. Is 1 1/2" face frame a good choice.

[Dave Tinley]

Jeff-

Just like the books have three different ways, there are even more. Some are based on production scheadules, some are based on the installers, and some are just based on personel preferences of the cabinet builders.
I just finished reading a lengthy thread on one of the professional cabinetmaking forums on adjustable legs vs solid toekicks and the theme is the same, its personal preference.
You should build what looks good to you.
Trust me I dont think there are very many woodworkers on this forum that are gonna come to your house and critique the dimensions of your toe kicks :D
BUT- you must post pics of the finished project.

Dave

[Byron Trantham]

I've got my uppers completed and am ready to start with the lowers, and I have some questions as the 3 books I have all use different ways,

1. what is a standard toe kick dimensions
I make all mine 4x4". A vacuum with fit underneath.

2. what is the best base, adjustable legs, a separate base or a base that is part of the sides.
Base that is part of the cabinet with adjustable feet if necessary.

3. I'm using 3/4" maple ply for the sides and bottom and 1/2" maple ply for the backs, so what should I use for the cleats to mount the counter top and how should they be attached and what width should I make them?
First, if you are not going "hang" the base, I wold think 1/4 plywood would be adequate but that's just me. I make the cleats long enough so that when they are installed in the corners I have enough room for my hand to get in there and run the screws.

4. Is 1 1/2" face frame a good choice.
I believe 1 1/2" is typical.

[Bill Lewis]

I've got my uppers completed and am ready to start with the lowers, and I have some questions as the 3 books I have all use different ways,


1. what is a standard toe kick dimensionsWhatever you like it to be, and whatever works for the design. Basically, I don't think it matters much, nor do I think there is a "standard" 4"D x 4.5"H if you need some numbers. Otherwise I'd go measure some cabinets to see what they are.


2. what is the best base, adjustable legs, a seperate base or a base that is part of the sides.Part of the sides would be the easiest to build, and is what you find in most commmercial cabinets. If you have some special height requirements you could build a separate base. Adjustable legs are mostly a european or a modern style. I wouldn't use them unless I liked to periodically look at the dirt and stuff that would collect under the cabinets.


3. I'm using 3/4" maple ply for the sides and bottom and 1/2" maple ply for the backs, so what should I use for the cleats to mount the counter top and how should they be attached and what width should I make them?How about a 3/4" x 4" x cabinet width stretcher on the back to fasten the cabinet to the walls. You can add cleats to keep the cabinet square, but they're not really needed to attach the counter. That is usually done with some form of adhesive (and gravity).
You can also add front and rear horizontal stretchers which again will only aid in the strength of the cabinet, and give you lots of attachment area for counter if you like.


4. Is 1 1/2" face frame a good choice.Again this is a design question that only you can really answer. Also this may be detemined by the style of your doors. Are your doors going to be flush, full overlay or partial overlay?
One thing youu should so is make your face frame 1/2" wider than the cabinet sides. This allows for a 1/4" overlap of the face frame on each side. This allows you to scribe the cabinet to a wall, and some adjustment for the cabinets themselves.

[Jim Becker]

Relative to the toe kick construction, I prefer a separate base construction or adjustable legs, myself. The former lets you level everything before placing the heavier cabinet units and also simplifies carcass construction when it comes to cutting out the cabinet sides. The adjustable legs are more of a Euro thing, but also provide the benefit of easier construction mentioned for separate bases. They can be hidden, if you desire, behind a panel.

My toe kick size in the kitchen ended up being about 3.5" tall which is in the typical range of up to about 4". I needed them to be at least that high to avoid having the Roomba (robotic sweeper... ;) ) get caught under the edge... :)

Face frame width is design and proportion dependent...and they are not necessarily uniform top and bottom. My kitchen cabinets have 1.25" wide FF on the top and 2" wide FF on the bottom. From the normal viewing angle...they "look" very similar in width.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Jeff,

1. Most stock cabinets have a 4.5" high toe kick which gives a standard 34.5" high base cabinet a 30" carcass. The depth may vary a little but 3.5" to 4 seems to be common from manufacturers such as Medallion, Kraft Maid and Mills Pride.

2. Adjustable legs are absolutely wonderful for the installer. Especially the type that adjusts via a hole in the bottom of the carcass. The adjustable legs also have a clip to accept the toekick. One downside is when you have exposed base end cabinets...it always looks cleaner with the side of a base cabinet going all the way to the floor without interuption of a toe kick. As for me, and my own home, I just built the carcass all the way to the floor and scribed to fit.

3. Cleats for the countertop can be 3/4 or 1/2, but you will have a lot of extra 3/4" material available, and grain direction of the plywood doesn't matter, so this is almost just scrap.

4. 1-1/2" face frame is fine and somewhat common. With a full overlay (3/4") door, this leaves about 1-1/2 inches between the doors of adjacent cabinets. This is usually the acceptable norm.

happy building :)

cheer, Jeff

[Joe Chritz]

Ditto for the last several cabinets I have done.

The last shop cabinets were built using a seperate base attached to the floor. This was because the concrete isn't exactly level (those responsible have been sacked) and it was easiest to level by making a platform.

My house cabinets are built with the toe kick cut out of the cab sides. I think they are 4" high and 2" deep before the kick plate was installed. Those measurements are completely arbitrary and until you reach the level for a full access kitchen I can't see any benefit between 3, 3.5 or 4".

Also I used scrap 3/4 inch ply for the back rails and some scrap blocks for the corners. I had some metal corner brackets on hand from a prior project and used them in some spots as well.

If you aren't installing them everyday, saving an hour or so in installation isn't really a big deal.

Joe

[Steve Clardy]

My standard toe kick is 4" tall, 3" back.
I run scrap cleats clear across the front and back of cabs, except the sink cab. No cleat on front, 1" wide cleat on rear.
All my legs are built into the cabs. If I have to shim to level, I trim out the toe kick where it meets the floor.

Why are you using 1/2" backs for lower cabs?
Steve

[Jeff Monson]

Steve, I got a really good deal on 1/2" maple ply so thats the reason, it also makes a really sturdy cabinet!!

[Jim Becker]

Steve, I used 1/2" for my cabinet backs, too...they are "very" sturdy. It was easier than sourcing 1/4" birch at the time... ;) ...and about the same cost.

[Steve Clardy]

Sure. Not a problem if the price is right.
But I think it's over kill for 1/2 backs. Just my opinion.
For instance, if using 1/2 backs in oak, here, 1/2 is 20% higher than 3/4 oak ply. So I use all 1/4", good one side. Back side is usually luan, bad oak, whatever.