A Painted Shop

[Eric Shields]

I decided to take last week off of work for some much needed down time, complete some honey-do's, and get some "shop time." Taking the first few days to get eveything done and maximize the shop time was great motivation. Below you can see the results of my now painted shop space. The walls are painted with a waterproofing, mold & mildew resistant paint from Zinsser (it goes on like pancake batter). The floor is Rust-Oleum Epoxy Shield (gray) that I received from my FIL for Christmas (he and my father are almost as excited as I am about this renovation, though I wish they were both closer to lend a helping hand at times). To say that this makes a difference in the space is an understatement. Now it's time for framing and furing strips. The blue tape on the floor is where partition walls will be located (questions on construction forthcoming in another thread).

Main shop photos (3)
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The Annex - from the main shop area
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The Annex - back toward the main shop area
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Thanks for taking a look.

Eric

[Tom Pritchard]

Wow Eric, the paint job looks great! What a great project to do with your father-in-law! Looks like you are going to have a first class workshop!!:D

[Matt Meiser]

Looks like a good size shop space, and bright too. To bad about that one lonely pole though.

[Bruce Page]

Eric, what a great space! If & when I ever get a new shop, I'm definitely going to paint the floor before I move in!

[Jim Becker]

Great progress, Eric. That's going to be a fine space for your woodworking pleasure!

[Chris Barton]

That looks really good and the paint will certainly make your shop brighter and reduce your need for additional lighting.

[Joe Chritz]

Looking good.

You will like that epoxy shield flooring. I used regular floor paint before and this time I used the same epoxy you did. The stuff is super tough.

Enjoy

Joe

[Allen Bookout]

Your shop is looking great. You are going to LOVE it.

The floor treatment is terrific. I used a simular product from another company and it has been fantastic. You will never regret the money or labor to put it down.

Allen

[Allen Grimes]

Too bad about that one lonely pole though.Im sure he thinks the same thing, every time he see's that pole, at least I know I would.

Great job Eric, I remember the first time you posted pics of this shop. Good to see you got things under control.

[Corey Hallagan]

Nice big shop space Eric, can't wait to see if finished!

Corey

[Bernie Weishapl]

Looks pretty bright and a nice big workshop to. Looks good.

[Eric Shields]

Thanks everyone that took a look. Even now, with the transformation just starting this is a noticable difference in the space. The white walls do add a lot of reflected light from the only two windows in the basement (fortunately for me the previous owner finished the side without any windows????). Though at night the space is like a cave, so I won't be skimping on lighting when the electrical goes in. I will be covering the walls with bead board so I can hang almost anything anywhere. And yes, the idiotic lonely pole that helps support the bedrooms upstairs is rather frustrating when contemplating my destined shop layout (I guess no one can have the perfect setup.

For those of you who missed my original posting of this space, this is what it looked like prior to painting. I'll admit that these are even better than the first, as all the family storage items and my collection of tools have been relocated for painting purposes.


The main shop area taken from the southwest corner.
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The Annex - From the main shop area east
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The Annex - Back to the main shop area west
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Thanks again for looking and be prepared for framing, insulation, and electrical questions to come.

Eric

[Pete Harbin]

Wow! That looks like it's going to be a great shop Eric. Have fun putting it all together!

Pete

[Brad Townsend]

I put the grey Epoxy Shield down on my shop floor a year ago and have not regretted it. It does have a few scratches from where I dragged heavy stuff across it, but they are barely noticeable. It should look great for years to come.

[Rob Will]

Eric, I would cover that pole in wood (2x4's etc.) and mount several electric outlets on it. Looks like a good place for a table saw and planer. This would avoid a cord across the floor. I would install 2-110 v duplex receptacles and 2-240 V single receptacles...... all on separate wires to the electric panel.......and all on separate breakers if you can. This post is also a good place for an air drop or two. Possibly even a DC pipe can go here.

Rob

[Byron Trantham]

Man, it would be sooo nice to be able to start from scratch! Your shop looks great. Keep the pics coming of your progress.

[Allen Bookout]

Rob,
I do not know what Eric thinks about it but I think that those are great ideas. Since the pole is already there, might as well use it to the best advantage. If I have any shop design problems I think that I will come to you for advise.
Allen

[Eric Shields]

Thank you for all the positive feedback. Painting is not my favorite form of home (or for that matter shop) improvement. However, this truly does make a difference in the space. I know in the future I will be happy I finished the floor. I can already tell a dramatic difference in the amount of dust (not from a saw yet) in the basement.

I have just completed the "schematic" (read - my sketches for myself) of the framing of the soffit I'll need to enclose the I beam and ducting. I'm somewhat finatical about knowing in advance how much material and at what cost will be to complete a project. Since I'm on a save then spend budget, please be patient as I save for the materials. Pics will be posted when the framing phase is complete.

Rob - Thanks for the positive input on the pole location. Though I knew it would be being used for some electrical, I haven't yet decided what else.

I am starting my electrical "schematic" of the entire space now. I am going on the philosophy (sp) of putting in outlets (110 & 240) at specified intervals around the entire shop, instead of where I think each machine will be. I'd rather go overkill here and have outlets everywhere for when I rearrange things in the future. Not to mention the fact that I really don't have any of the equipment that will be used here perminently (can't wait to go shopping). I don't want to be limited to tool location by outlet location.

Thanks again and happy sawdust

Eric

[Rob Will]

Eric, What are you going to use for lighting? T-8 flouresent "wrap" fixtures?

I agree on the perimeter wiring (above workbench height). About the post idea, my farm shop has outlets around the perimeter but we have always wanted to add a post in the middle near the free-standing grinders and the vise on a stand. We need electrical and air at that location.

I'm in the same position on my WW shop and like you, currently looking for tools. Having said that, I am planning a general location for the table saw and planer because these tools tend to handle large / long pieces and are often placed in the middle of the floor. In an earlier thread Todd Evans gave me some good advice about placement of the TS and planer. It appears that you are looking for quality. I hope you get a good cabinet saw (220v Uni?) and a good fence (Biesemeyer?). Just thinking out loud. Looks like a great shop in the making.

Rob

[Eric Shields]

Rob W,

I am currently beginning to investigate the lighting issue. I know that Wood Magazine did an article on shop lighting that I am currently attempting to find in my stack of magazines. Also, when I first posted the pics of my shop space, Jerry Todd suggested "Lighting For The Workshop" by Jack L Lindsey from Fine Woodworkings Feb 2002 issue, though I have not taken the steps to acquire it yet.

As for tools, yes I am drooling and chomping at the bit to get some good quality machinery in this space. I can't wait to make some sawdust :) I continue to research the tools on my wish list anywhere I can get information, but I know it will be a while until the first purchase comes through the door,

Anyone with ideas, concerns, or opinions on lighting and wiring please speak up. I'd love to hear what you have to say on your experiences. I want to do this right the first time and not look back with regrets, even if it does mean a delay in the completion of the space. Thanks in advance.

Eric

[Barry O'Mahony]

Some comments on lighting:

--as you may have noted in the FWW, lighting requirements go up after 40: those of us in that category need a light level high enough to narrow down our pupils enoug to get back some of that lost accuity. So if your FIL is going to be in the shop you may want to keep that in mind.

--Intensity from a point source, like an incandescent bulb, falls off with the square of the distance. Intensity from a long linear light source falls off linearly with distance. Applying this principle, flourescent tubes wook best when they are installed end-to-end in long contuguous lines along the long dimension of the shop. That's why you commonly see them this way in commercial spaces. Space the lines apart about the distance of the ceiling height, and you'll have alot of light.

BTW, if you ever get sick of dealing with the pole, a steel I-beam can easily span that distance and support the bedrooms above.

[Dave Harker]

Eric,

Your shop space looks wonderful - I wish I had that kind of square footage!

If it will help, here is a link to my web page about converting our garage into a heated, electrically-equipped shop (and garage - need it in Minnesota winters).

It's mainly pics, shows electrical, insulation, lighting, phone/cable-tv, etc, as you will face, though a basement is different in some ways. More "wish I would have" tips are below...

http://webpages.charter.net/harkerhome/WWShop/garageremodelpics.html

Other things (not all mentioned on my page):

1) take digital pics of every bit of every wire, prior to covering them up. Measure each wire's location (how far up from floor) and use a photo-editing program to label (right on the photo) where each wire is, so you can ensure you won't drill thru them when mounting shelves or whatever, 2 years later. I did that and have looked that those pics MANY times.

2) If you plan to add a new breaker sub-panel, then drywall around it, add many future wiring runs going from the sub-panel box to the potential location of new circuits (somewhere more accessible, outside the drywall). I didn't do this, and wish I had.

3) Add ceiling outlets and un-used elec. junction boxes in the ceiling, on the light circuit(s). I wish I could easily add some track lighting, for aimable extra light. I have no junction boxes, and someday will need to climb into my attic and add them, messing with blow-in insulation. You won't have an attic, all the more reason to add them now, between each of the currently-planned lights.

Basically, if an idea enters your head about a future need (and laying in support for that need NOW) don't ever say: "I don't think I'll need THAT someday". Just do it - you will not think of everything before it is too late, so lay in support for future stuff even if it seems extravagant now. Elec. wire is CHEAP, as are junction boxes, etc.

Good luck,
Dave


(http://webpages.charter.net/harkerhome/WWShop/garageremodelpics.html)

[Luther Oswalt]

Eric,
I'm sure that you know this but, sometimes ... well you know .... make sure that you have room around those HVAC units to change filters and perform maintenace. The same for plumbing clean outs etc.! What area of Northern VA, are you in. I lived in Fairfax County for a very long time before moving here ... Don't miss the commute at all!
Leo

[Rob Will]

I also like the concept of running a dedicated wire to each device (to whatever extent is practical). These wires should lead to accessible junction boxes where each wire is numbered or labeled. A Sharpie works good on Romex.

If you know where your most power-hungry tools (table saw, shaper, sander, planer etc.) will be located, a 10ga. romex to that location could be a good thing.

Don't forget to split your lighting up so that you can turn on half of the fixtures at a time. One way to do this is to use a 14-3 or 12-3 wire with every-other fixture hooked to alternating red and black conductors. If the red and black are fed from opposite phases at the breaker panel, you can share the neutral wire. In theory there is no current on this neutral wire when both (opposing) circuits are in operation. In the case of 4-bulb flouresent fixtures, you can power the two ballasts from different switches by using one 3 conductor wire. Medium light when you need to fetch a screwdriver, full light when you need to work in the shop. Don't forget to wire for 3-way switches where you need em. (Barry is this all OK?)

Work table electrical outlets: Some friends of mine have a 4'x8' assembly/work table with a removable piece of thin carpet cut to fit the top. Around the perimeter of the table mounted under the rim at all four corners is a 110v outlet. A really handy location that once again can eliminate a cord across the floor.

Rob