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View Full Version : The good, the bad, and the Grizzly (G0490)



Paul Ziegler
02-20-2006, 10:47 AM
My Grizzly 8" jointer (model G0490) arrived on Friday so I thought I would post my initial impressions.

The good:
The item arrived much sooner than expected. I was anticipating a mid-March delivery and ended up receiving the jointer less than one week after placing the order.

It arrived in good condition and the delivery person was friendly and wheeled it right into my garage.

Assembly was very simple and everything lined up perfectly. I did not notice the bent motor mount brackets that some have mentioned. My guess is that isn't a design feature.

The infeed and outfeed tables were nicely machined (much better than my Unisaw tables) and flat. Same is true of the fence. The outfeed table height was properly adjusted and didn't require any tweaking.

Infeed adjustments are smooth and precise even though I usually just set it to 1/32th and leave it.

It works great! The size of the tables is such an improvement from my 6" Delta. And what a difference sharp blades make. Since the blades get dull so gradually, I never really noticed how dull mine were until I got this new one. The cuts are so smooth. It prompted me to flip my blades in the planer as well and now that machine feels like new. Now why don't they make it as easy to change jointer knives as they do planer knives? The planer took all of 15 minutes but I'm still hesitant to ever mess with the jointer knives for fear of screwing it up.

The bad:
The red off button was broken upon arrival. It still works fine but since you have to twist the button before pressing start, it will need to be replaced.

As mentioned in previous posts, the cord that comes with it is 16 gauge so I replaced it with 12 gauge while I had the panels off for assembly. Of course, all of the other wiring is also 16 gauge but at least the longest length is now up to snuff. Side note: mine didn't come with a plug (which I wasn't expecting except a previous review seemed to indicate that his arrived with a plug). After wiring it together I went to fire it up. It started very slowly and then died. Eventually I determined that the thermal overload switch kicked out. Seeing as how it was -20 degrees outside (and a balmy 10 degrees in my insulated but unheated shop), I don't think it was thermally overloaded. It almost felt like it was running on 120V but my Unisaw worked fine on the same outlet. I was super careful when I rewired the cord but spent quite a bit of time reviewing the wiring diagram just to make sure. My wiring was correct. I called Grizzly but it was Saturday and they were understaffed so nobody from technical services could help me. I decided to keep trying it (about 6-8 more times) and eventually it fired up like it should. It kicked out a couple more times shortly after that but at least I knew it was capable of running correctly. Ever since, it has worked fine so I don't know what was going on initially. I thought it might have been the extreme cold, but the Unisaw had no problem with it and if I can work without gloves in that kind of weather, I expect my tools to also. I'll keep my frozen fingers crossed. There is a noticable jump at start-up but it settles in quite nicely with no perceptible vibration. Does anyone know if a link belt would help reduce the initial jump or are they more for reducing the vibration associated with running at full speed?

Overall, I am very pleased with the jointer. It arrived in good condition (except the off button), went together easily, and works great. My only lingering concern is about the motor. Hopefully it was just a result of the unusually cold weather and won't be a recurring problem.

Jim Becker
02-20-2006, 11:16 AM
Many stop buttons need to be reset before the "go" button will work, especially when the "emergency stop" and regular stop are combined. Be sure it's not designed that way. I have three machines in my shop that require this...my MM16, my MM FS350 and my Stubby 750 Lathe. (The MM16 has the combined stop feature; the other two require reset of the button if I use it rather than the other stop buttons)

Frank Pellow
02-20-2006, 11:54 AM
Thanks for the review Paul. It's too bad about the electrical problems. The wiring was also the only fault that I could find with my Delta DJ 20 Jointer (that I have owned for about a year).

Allen Bookout
02-20-2006, 12:12 PM
Thanks Paul,

I am starting to put mine togeather and did not see your thread so I posted in the thread ' "mini review" GO490'. Good review!

Allen

John Hedges
02-20-2006, 12:29 PM
Paul,

You mentioned that the stop button is broken. Since this is part of the wiring circuit, I am wondering if something there is causing the machine to shut down unexpectedly.

Mike Cutler
02-20-2006, 12:31 PM
Paul.

Two potential issues come mind with your electrical problem, actually three come to mind.

1. The belt is too tight, or there is a shipping wedge installed.
2. The electrolytic starting capacitors are having trouble with the low temperatures.
3. The starting capacitors are bad.

I'd give Grizzly a call though. You shouldn't have to fix a new "out of the box" machine before you can use it.
Nice gloat on the jointer. It sounds as if the folks that have got one have been happy with it.

Jay Knoll
02-20-2006, 12:49 PM
Paul/everyone


Paul said => As mentioned in previous posts, the cord that comes with it is 16 gauge so I replaced it with 12 gauge while I had the panels off for assembly. Of course, all of the other wiring is also 16 gauge but at least the longest length is now up to snuff.

Are you concerned about voltage drop with a smaller gauge wire? It seems to me that if the wire is properly sized for the motor then "going bigger" doesn't have an advantage.

If it is improperly wired inside the machine (e.g. too small) , then doesn't that section become the "weak link" in the whole circuit? I assume that this has to have a UL seal to be imported so what is an electrically challenged woodworker to do?

Would it be possible to rewire later on by taking off a panel? I understand that it would be easiest when you're assembling the unit, but I'm wondering if I should wait and try it for awhile before going through the upgrade process.

Jay

John Hedges
02-20-2006, 1:23 PM
Jay,

I believe I am the one who initially raised a concern with wiring, but have since learned a few things. Since the internal runs in the machine are so short the 16 gauge is fine. Additionally, 18 amps is the MAX this machine should use, but I would imagine the continuous draw (even under load) is probably around 9-11 amps, so again the internal wiring should be fine. Lastly the cord that came with mine (I find it interesting that Paul did not receive one wired on HMMM) was 16 gauge but again the cord was sized short enough so that if it was used it would be fine. However if replacing with a longer cord it would be advisable to use 12 gauge due to the change in resistance over the additional length. Hope this clears up all the confusion I probably started over the wire sizing.

Paul Ziegler
02-20-2006, 1:23 PM
I should clarify what I meant by "the stop button is broken". The button actually functions but the red plastic button itself had portions of the flange broken off. So instead of a smooth round circle, it is a jagged sharp polygon. Sorry for the confusion.

Jay Knoll
02-20-2006, 1:41 PM
John

Thanks for the information and the prompt reply! I get it. I guess I"ll have to wait until I get the beast into the garage to figure out where it is going to live before I determine if I need to make an extension cord. Like someone else here, I'm starting to worry where I am going to put this thing and still be able to move around and get a car in the garage (notice I said "a car" the two car garage has morphed into a sometime one car garage all the time work shop.

Jay

Jay Knoll
02-20-2006, 1:43 PM
Paul

Sorry, in all the excitement/questions I forgot to thank you for a great post. We're all learning something with each new arrival!

Jay

Jim Becker
02-20-2006, 1:43 PM
Thank for the clarification, Paul. It does sound "broken" in the literal sense!!

Barry O'Mahony
02-21-2006, 2:16 AM
Paul,

If the thermal overload tripped, did you have to reset it at the magnetic switch?

This being an intermittent problem, I'd suspect a loose connection. Since the exterior of the OFF switch was broken, the interior is suspect. I'd get a whole new switch from Grizzly, and see how it goes.

Paul Ziegler
02-21-2006, 8:30 AM
Yes, I had to reset the overload at the magnetic switch. I haven't had the problem again since the very first day so I am starting to think it was due to sitting for an extended period of time in the extreme cold (-20F). Grizzly customer service has noted the problem in their computer system so if I have trouble with it in the future I am covered.

I also did the nickel and penny test last night. The nickel stayed standing even throughout the start up jolt (the jolt is more noise-related than vibration-related). The penny would fall over upon start up but I could get it to stand after it came up to speed.

Shiraz Balolia
02-21-2006, 10:29 AM
I also did the nickel and penny test last night. The nickel stayed standing even throughout the start up jolt (the jolt is more noise-related than vibration-related). The penny would fall over upon start up but I could get it to stand after it came up to speed.

Paul - check that the set screw on the motor pulley is tight. Quite often, if the pulley is not tight on the motor shaft, you will feel or hear a "jolt" either on startup and/or shutoff.