novice planer

[john mclane]

I need some advise for a plane to clean up tenons (across the grain and close to the shoulder) and end grains. I have an inexpensive Stanley block plan my son gave me for a present. I have it sharpened and somewhat tuned (can't seem to keep the blade tight and have to check every few minutes) and on grain planing I can get nice thin strips, but when used on the tenon across the grain it barely cuts. I'm just starting to build up my tools but don't want to go high on cost yet.

[Mike Henderson]

I'm afraid that price and quality somewhat track. For example, if you have a new Stanley block plane (made in England), you already know some of the problems of lower cost planes. Those planes have a very small support for the blade and the steel doesn't hold an edge very well.

But back to trimming tenons. There's a couple of options. The Veritas medium shoulder plane is very good. Another option is the Lie Nielsen 60 1/2R (for rabbet) plane. The LN plane might serve as a block plane for you also, but the mouth is not adjustable. But I'd prefer the shoulder plane.

Some people might recommend the Stanley 92 or 93 but I'm not a big fan of those planes - but I had a bad experience with a 93 (poor quality) so I might be biased.

One thing about buying a high quality plane is that if you decide you don't like it, you can sell it for almost full price on that auction site.

Mike

[Richard Neel]

John,

I too am a relative novice. I started off with a very low-end stanley block plane and messed around with it forever. I finally bought an adjustable mouth, LN block plane when they went on sale at Woodcraft and I couldn't believe the difference. With the blade freshly honed, you can take a nice, thin shaving on end-grain. There IS a difference in the quality planes.

What are you using to sharpen?

[Derek Cohen]

The ideal plane for cross grain work, such as tenons, is a #140 skew block plane. LN make right- and left handed versions. I have the original Stanley, which cuts on the left side.

For shoulders, which is end grain, use a .... shoulder plane! The LV Medium is the pick of the bunch.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[tod evans]

john, here`s a few choices. a couple of these have been coppied by a popular plane maker but if you`re able to find the real mccoy they will appreiciate in value .02 tod

32340

[john mclane]

Thanks for the advice. For sharpening I'm using water stones for the first part and final finishing on a 2 sided diamond sharpener with fine and extrafine sides I have a blade guide but finding I'm using it less and less as I get a feel for the angle by rocking on the stones.

[Charlie Mastro]

Well these are my favorites:;)

[Charlie Mastro]

Suprised to hear you use the diamond stones for final finish. Even the extra fine would seem to me to be too course for a final polishing. I use a King #8000 for final and about a #3000 natural water stone after the #1000. I am getting my first Shapton #1000 this week and am hopping this will speed up my course work

Charlie

[Richard Neel]

Charlie,

You will like the Shaptons. I've been using mine for a while now (1000 and 8000) and they are a joy to use.

[john mclane]

The nice thing about this forum is that it tests your assumptions. I bought the DuoShop Diamond Stones about a year ago at a yard sale in new/unused condition. A friend told me they were equivalent to 1200 and 2000 and I just accepted that. When Charlie mentioned they were courser, I looked them up they are equivalent to 600 and 1200. I guess I'll be looking for some new water stones as well.

I want to take a sharpening class at the local Woodcraft sometime in March. Guess I need it.

Learn something new every day.