Mounted M12V w/ Router Raizer

[Mike Goetzke]

A spent a couple of hours attaching a RouterRaizer to my M12V and mounting it to my router table. I must have spent 20 minutes deciding which orientating to mount the router. Right or wrong here is how I did mine - only thing a little hard to get at is the height lock. Does everyone use the height lock with the Raizer?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/M12V/IMG_1696_1_1.jpg


Top of view is the front:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/M12V/IMG_1697_2_1.jpg


Mike

[Vaughn McMillan]

Thanks for the pics, Mike. I've got the same project (M12V and Router Raizer) awaiting me once I get an appropriate mounting plate. What plate did you use? Any pics from the top of the table?

- Vaughn

[David Rose]

Mike,

My Router Raizer is on a different machine, but basically the same setup. I used the lock for awhile, but without a device to lock it from outside the table, it kind of defeated part of the quick adjustments for me. I never got around to building an outside locking rig. An "old" router man, who must remain nameless, used one since they first came out without locking it. I can't remember exactly what I did, but I made pretty sure that the Raizer could not drop the router.

David

[Norman Hitt]

Mike, I don't know if the "Site" is back up for WoodshopDemos, but he shows the installation of the Router Raizer, AND a nice pictorial of making a Push Rod connected to the Collet lock that can be pulled/Pushed from the outside of the Router table, and I don't recall if he also made one for the height lock, BUT.....you should always use the height lock even with a lift or Raizer to assure that the height does not change due to vibration from the router when it is cutting.

One thing I Always do when mounting a router in a table is to remove the "Handles", and the rotating head of the depth stop, (and store them in a marked Baggie for use later If I should ever want to remove the router and use it Handheld). This gives more room to reach the collet lock, Height Lock, etc. underneath the table. I also mounted ours with a different orientation than yours. I mounted them so the off/on switch and speed control is facing me when I look under the table from the front.

I am curoius, though, as to why you used the metal plate between the router base and the bottom of the Table's top. This seems like it would Limit your cut depth/height above the table, and with "some bits" might not allow you to get the full cut of the profile without raising the bit in the collet to an unsafe level. I have two M-12V routers in tables in my shop, (mine, and the one I built for my ww buddy), and both are mounted directly to a "drop in" Plate, (dropped in from the top of the table), (his is a Plunge Lift). My Plate is Phenolic and his is Aluminum, but both are only 1/4" thick, IIRC, which gives us use of the full profile of all our bits with the bit shafts mounted 1/8" off the bottom of the collet for safety.

[Ray Moser]

I've had the M12V in a table for 6 or 7 years. I removed the handles, cut off the templett guide holder tabs, removed the springs and the small brass button that applies pressure to one rod to lock the height. I depend on the weight to hold the router at the selected height and I've had no problem with the router depth drifting during use. My height adjustment rod is a 1/2" copper pipe with two nuts inside and 3" homemade oak knob on the end. The idea of this as a height adjuster was in one of the magazines about the time I got the router. The mounting plate is lexan that I got from Eagle America. I always store the router laying on the table to avoid the weight hanging on the lexan all the time. Not fancy, but it has worked for me.

[Mark Singer]

I have the same Hitachi router...the Bench Dog table and plate...and the RoterRaizer... I left the lock on and it seems to work fine. Sometimes I lock it just to insure that it won't change in depth....but even if I don't it is fine.

[Thomas Prondzinski]

Mike
I have a Hitachi M12V table mounted with a spindle lock rod extending outside the table. Also I put a hole in the locking handle slightly bigger than 1/4" and attatched a 1/4-20 threaded rod with a lock nut on each side of the lock handle(not tight) that way I lock and unlock the handle from outside the table,only time I go under table is for speed adjustment.


Tom

[Mike Goetzke]

Mike, I don't know if the "Site" is back up for WoodshopDemos, but he shows the installation of the Router Raizer, AND a nice pictorial of making a Push Rod connected to the Collet lock that can be pulled/Pushed from the outside of the Router table, and I don't recall if he also made one for the height lock, BUT.....you should always use the height lock even with a lift or Raizer to assure that the height does not change due to vibration from the router when it is cutting.

One thing I Always do when mounting a router in a table is to remove the "Handles", and the rotating head of the depth stop, (and store them in a marked Baggie for use later If I should ever want to remove the router and use it Handheld). This gives more room to reach the collet lock, Height Lock, etc. underneath the table. I also mounted ours with a different orientation than yours. I mounted them so the off/on switch and speed control is facing me when I look under the table from the front.

I am curoius, though, as to why you used the metal plate between the router base and the bottom of the Table's top. This seems like it would Limit your cut depth/height above the table, and with "some bits" might not allow you to get the full cut of the profile without raising the bit in the collet to an unsafe level. I have two M-12V routers in tables in my shop, (mine, and the one I built for my ww buddy), and both are mounted directly to a "drop in" Plate, (dropped in from the top of the table), (his is a Plunge Lift). My Plate is Phenolic and his is Aluminum, but both are only 1/4" thick, IIRC, which gives us use of the full profile of all our bits with the bit shafts mounted 1/8" off the bottom of the collet for safety.

Thanks for the replys:

1) I went to the workshop demos. Lots of good info but I didn't like the position of the arobr lock since my router is on my TS.

2) That plate is aluminum. It's a carry over from my old set-up (my old RT used this plate and approx. 1/8" thick table top). I'll have to see how it works out because that's the first thing I noticed on this router was max. hight is low - My router plate is also thicker than before it's about 1/2" thick.Might need to mount the router directly to the insert ????

3) Top View: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/22124/IMG_1519_1_1.jpg

[Norman Hitt]

That's really a nice looking Table, Mike. Is that one of the CMT Phenolic Tops?

Maybe you could make/have made a 3/8" Aluminum plate like Bruce mentioned, to fit into the cutout for the Phenolic plate you have in there now and mount the router direct to it, and that would eliminate your height/depth of cut restriction. Aren't Tool setup Decisions FUN? Oh, well, it will all be worth it when you get it all figured out and fine tuned.

[Mike Goetzke]

That's really a nice looking Table, Mike. Is that one of the CMT Phenolic Tops?

Maybe you could make/have made a 3/8" Aluminum plate like Bruce mentioned, to fit into the cutout for the Phenolic plate you have in there now and mount the router direct to it, and that would eliminate your height/depth of cut restriction. Aren't Tool setup Decisions FUN? Oh, well, it will all be worth it when you get it all figured out and fine tuned.

Thanks for the suggestion. I do have a 1/4" piece of aluminum that might fit but maybe I'll use this phenolic one for a while to see how it works out.

I tried out my raised panel bit and it seems to have more than enough height adjustment - especially since I made a bent wrench.

Mike

[Bill Fields]

Vaughn/Mike:

Slightly off-topic, but we could use your report on ""ease" of installation of the RR.

I got mine in (big 3 horse HF router--I have 2-3 of them-$80--copy of the Makita 3612??)---but it took many hours of deciding which instruction sheets to discard, etc.

After all that--works great--all for under $60 from Amazon sale.

But--geez--the instructions are a nightmare.

BILL

[Mike Goetzke]

Vaughn/Mike:

Slightly off-topic, but we could use your report on ""ease" of installation of the RR.

I got mine in (big 3 horse HF router--I have 2-3 of them-$80--copy of the Makita 3612??)---but it took many hours of deciding which instruction sheets to discard, etc.

After all that--works great--all for under $60 from Amazon sale.

But--geez--the instructions are a nightmare.

BILL

The instructions I got were for many different routers. It tells you on the front which pages of the directions to use. It probably took about 2 hours to assemble but I also drilled my mounting plate. The thing that caused me delay was the fact that the clearance hole for the RR disk the protrudes above the router base is super close to one of the mounting holes. I had to use a Dremel to carefully provide proper clearance. Other wise I went pretty smooth.

Mike