simple question for cyclone owners

[Matthew Batarseh]

Lurk mode off (finally!)

I just mounted my new 3HP Super Gorilla in my garage shop as part of a major machinery upgrade and am now moving on to installing my ductwork.

How does everyone secure the first piece of ductwork to the main cyclone barrel? Just tape? Drill and use screws? inquiring minds want to know.

Once I get the ductwork up and the last of my machines in I will put up some pics of the shop and detail the major pain in the butt it has been dealing with the various Euro machine companies I am dealing with... Just because you are spending what is a lot of money to you does not mean its a big order for them or that you will be treated any better than purchasing from a company with less expensive machines!

Thanks for any help you guys can provide

Matthew

[Matt Tawes]

Hey Matthew congrats on the new 3HP Gorilla, I've had a the old 1.5HP Oneida with ext. filter for about 6yrs. and still love it. Since mine is in the garage and the duct passes through the wall next to it into the shop I screwed and taped that connection so it did not work loose while I connected up the other sides ductwork. Though I screwed and used silicone on a few other connections, anymore I just use the foil tape that the HVAC guys use and it works great (I still screw and seal duct to blastgate connections).

[Kevin Johnson]

Hey Neighbor,

I live about 7-8 miles down the road from Eldersburg. Anyway, I have an older 1.5 HP Oneida like Matt's and I just used the band strap and some silver duct tape.

[Jamie Buxton]

Friction. Just friction.

[Ken Garlock]

Welcome aboard Matthew.:)

I built a 3 Hp clone of Bill Pentz's design from a kit. I attached the main duct to the inlet by sliding the 6" PVC inside the inlet. I put a couple short screws through the sheet metal into the PVC for mechanical stability. I then caulked the joint with "PL" brand window and door (non silicon) caulk.

Whatever way you attach the ducting, make sure you have an air-tight joint.

Good Luck....:)

[Jim Becker]

The 7" duct enters my 2hp Oneida system inlet with a slight crimp that is then secured with heavy foil tape. I didn't use mechanical fasteners at that point as the duct itself is well supported and puts no stress on the joint.

[Frank Pellow]

I have the (pre Gorilla) Oneida 2hp Commercial unit. The 7" pipe slides into the unit then I sealed the connection with duct tape. :)

It's nice to use duct tape for its original purpose :D

[Jim Becker]

Frank, I am hoping you are referring to the heavy HVAC foil duct tape, rather than the "cloth" ("original") type...the latter will only stick for so long and seals poorly over time.

[Frank Pellow]

Frank, I am hoping you are referring to the heavy HVAC foil duct tape, rather than the "cloth" ("original") type...the latter will only stick for so long and seals poorly over time.
No Jim, I am talking about cloth duct tape (from 3M). I used it the seal all the joints and, as near as I can tell, it appears to be holding up very well.

[Chris McKimson]

Hi Matthew. I used spiral piping and Oneida had sent me 2 duct layouts, one for snap lock and the other for spiral. The spiral layout seemed to have adapter fittings between each piece of pipe and each fitting (wyes, elbows etc). I ended up getting my spiral stuff from Sprial Mfg (which didn't require adapter fittings) but I did purchase the first adapter fitting from Oneida to transition from the dust collector to the first piece of 8" spiral duct. The Oneida part number is DAS080000 ($13.00) and it worked like a champ.

Chris

[Jim Hill]

Hi,

I only used foil tape and the connection has held up well.

Jim

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Hi

I used three screws, a sealing putty stuff, and foil tape....

Cheers!

[Steven Wilson]

I used pop rivets to attach my duct work together. I did use a couple of sheetmetal screws to attach some Nordfab fittings to machine outlets. All joints were then sealed with caulk. At the end all joints were checked with smoke for leaks.

[Chris Fite]

I used sheet metal screws and the metal tape.

[Roy Wall]

I used 2-3 self tapping sheet metal screws... 1/2" I believe. and then foil HVAC tape.

Same procedure for each joint.

[Cody Colston]

3 x 1/2" self-tapping sheet metal screws at 120 degree phasing and sealed with silicone.

[Matthew Batarseh]

Thanks for all the options guys. I am going to start with friction and tape first and then if I need to I will add some screws.

[Bob Justin]

Hope all goes well with your system. :) No dust is the best kind of dust!:)

As I put my system in, I was looking at several things; mechanical joint tightness, little or no plastic and electrically bonded for a good ground. The self taping screws hold things together and make a positive, mechanical electrical contact.

The foil duct tape works the best for me. Seems I am forever making changes to the shop, (out with the old Craftsman radial arm saw and in with the new Jet 1642 lathe) and making some minor ducting changes. Parts come apart with no damage for re-use. I had used some electrical tape (Scotch 77) and found that over time, it comes apart unless I put some of the foil tape over it.

At the machine ends where I needed hose, I went with the smooth-bore anti-static hose to my flexable machinery connections to help keep down any static build up. From my firefighter days (long ago) any static discharge and dust is a very bad combination.

[JayStPeter]

Wherever I could, I used only tape for connections. I do have a dozen or so screws in my system where load bearing strength was required. Most of these are at the top of drops and near blast gate and machine adapter connections.

Jay

[tod evans]

welcome matthew, i don`t have the d/c system you`re asking about but i`ve found mechanical fasteners and butyl caulk will seal most d/c joints...02 tod

[Matthew Batarseh]

My duct plan includes no plastic (other than flex hose), foil tape for all joints and for those that need more mechanical strength I have a bunch of the self-tapping screws. I just wasn't sure I wanted to be drilling on my cyclone barrel which brought up the original question.

I am trying to do this installation as "right" as possible because I don't want to be constantly rerouting things. Other than eventually getting a drum or wide belt sander down the road I already have all of my ductable tools in place or on the way so I don't need to worry about those kinds of changes and any sander I get will probably mean moving to a larger shop or a divorce since my wife will give up her side of the garage on a permanent basis over her dead body :)