Dust Collector Remote (Electrical ?)

[Marty Baucom]

I received my contactor today from big brown (Thanks Tom Pritchard for your help). I have been to the Shack and picked up one of their handy dandy $9.99 AC remote switches. I am commencing to build my version of the dust collector remote. Here is my question. I don't want to have an external AC power cord to power the Radio Shack remote and I want everything in one box. Can I source the AC from my incoming line prior to the contactor to power the remote? I am using a 110V remote and dust collector. I am attaching a schematic of what I am trying to do. I would appreciate any input from our electrically gifted members here at the Creek. Thanks

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[Don Baer]

Not the way you have that drawn up. you need to use the remote to energize to coil on the contactor. The way you've drawn it the remote unit will carrry the load of the DC. This will turn the renote into a fuse very quickly. Is the DC 220 or 110 Volts. I asume the Radio shack tin is 110V. I don't have a cad on this machine but maybe someone else out there can draw you a schematic.

[Marty Baucom]

Don the way I have it drawn the Radio Shack remote will be used to energize the coils on the contactor which will switch the dust collector on. Maybe my drawing wasn't clear enough. Those were the only symbols I could find in Visio.

[Marty Baucom]

Yes Tom everything is 110V on my system. I have a HF dust collector with the Wynn filter conversion. I am not ready to put in the big yellow beast yet. Maybe if I could get some help with the ductwork placement I would bite the bullet. Thanks for the help

[James A. Wolfe]

Tom,
Not trying to put too fine a point on it but I think you may have created a code violation by using your ground wire as a neutral conductor. Although a lot of people will tell they've done it this way for years, the chassis or case may become energized if the neutral line is broken.

my .02

Jim

[Jim Becker]

James is correct, Tom...a ground should never be used as the neutral. You need a four wire cable coming from your breaker box to do it correctly. Two hot legs, a neutral and the ground. Neutral is current carrying; ground is not.

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Marty, thanks for the diagram. This is exactly how my system is set up out side of the fact I didn't use a wireless remote this time around. The contactor is the way to go, especially for the higher amperage units. (I burned out three X-10 switches with my Oneida system before switching to the simple contactor controlled by a 120v switch)