Smoothing Plane which size...

[Ken Slemmer]

First let me begin by saying, “Hello” to everyone here…yes, another Neanderthal member. :)
<O:p</O:p
I found the Sawmill Creek Forum and decided to join. What made it final was Neanderthal Haven.
<O:p
The past few years I have been saving $$$ and have purchased a few L-N Planes. I am at the juncture of purchasing a smoother. Researching and thinking about which size, My descion is between the 4 – ½ or thinking of the 5 – ½ L-N.
<O:p
Thought that I would ask the communities with it's knowledge and listen to your thoughts - suggestions regarding a decision. I am kind of leaning toward the 4 – ½ at this time.
<O:p
Thanks.
Ken

[Mike Henderson]

Welcome to the creek, Ken.

You don't say what other planes you have but for smoothing, I'd recommend the 4 1/2. I bought a 5 1/2 because I though the extra weight would help in certain situations - but after using it for a while, I now find that I often reach for a lighter plane. When I prepare stock by hand - which isn't very often - I will use the 5 1/2 after I do the scrubbing. Many people, however, use a bigger plane, like a 6, for that purpose but I find the 5 1/2 works well for me. But for final smoothing, I use a 4 (I don't have a 4 1/2).

Good luck on your projects - let us see some of them when you're ready.

Mike

[Jim Young]

Seems to me the #4 is the standard for smoothers. As side note it also come in that kewl looking bronze.

[Mark Stutz]

Ken,
Welcome to the Creek! If you choice is between the LN 4 1/2 and LN 5 1/2, go with the 4 1/2 as a smoother. If you go the LN route, you also have the option of the high angle (York pitch) frog. There are multiple ways to skin this cat, as you know, but I am happy with my 4 1/2.

Mark

[Dave Anderson NH]

Welcome to our humble abode Ken. Come here early and stay late.

I normally don't think of a 5 1/2 as a smoother except maybe in the sense of using it as a panel plane for finishing large flat surfaces such as tabletops or larger sized raised panel doors. While #1 and #2s are smoothers, they are too small for most users hands and the practical sizes are usually considered to be #3, #4, and #4 1/2. I am fortunate to have multiples of each, though certainly not L-N, with the exception of my 4 1/2. All have their uses and the only way you can make a choice is to try handling and using those of a friend to get a feel for what you like. We all have different hand and body sizes and and things get complicated further by our different methods of working. Hence the need to test things out for yourself. Does this sound like I'm waffling.... you betcha I am. My only further comment would be that if you are intent on becoming a serious hand tool woodworker the choice isn't a final one. You will almost certainly end up with more than one smoother and more likely a stable of different ones as the years pass.

[tod evans]

welcome ken! i don`t use new planes so no advice....02 tod

[Ken Slemmer]

Mike, that is what I have been thinking. The 5 - 1/2 with the extra weight would be the way to go. In the back of my mind I kept thinking - gee that 7lbs will get heavier as I plane. Maybe the 4 - 1/2 might be the better choice and by asking the question here I would get a number of view points to help me decide. Which your responses have.

The 4 - 1/2 is it...that is when I have a little extra $$$.

Just to mention my small inventory of planes.
L-N #7, Low Angel Adj. Block Plane and the Mortise Plane. The last two planes I've been using with in building and installing wood trim and doors in this 1851 house. This is the second rebuild that I have done.
I have a Stanley #5 Bailey that was my father's which I am re-tuning with a Hock, A2 blade and chip breaker.

With the use of tools in working on the house I have developed a love for hand tools. No doubt quite a few of the members here were introduced to hand tools this way - family, friends and by necessity.

Thank you for your advice.

Ken

[James Owen]

First let me begin by saying, “Hello” to everyone here…yes, another Neanderthal member. :)
<O:p</O:p
I found the Sawmill Creek Forum and decided to join. What made it final was Neanderthal Haven.
<O:p
The past few years I have been saving $$$ and have purchased a few L-N Planes. I am at the juncture of purchasing a smoother. Researching and thinking about which size, My descion is between the 4 – ½ or thinking of the 5 – ½ L-N.
<O:p
Thought that I would ask the communities with it's knowledge and listen to your thoughts - suggestions regarding a decision. I am kind of leaning toward the 4 – ½ at this time.
<O:p
Thanks.
Ken


Ken,

It depends on what planes you already have, and what you want to use them for. My two most-used smoothing planes are the #4-1/2 and the #5-1/2. (Yeah, I know, the #5-1/2 technically ain't a smoothing plane.....). Which one I use depends on the size of the board and how much trouble the grain is giving me. I find that the extra weight of the #5-1/2 often (but not always) helps with uncooperative grain. And, I just like the extra weight...feels good in my hands.

One of the good things about the LNs is that, if you go for the #4-1/2 and get the high angle frog, as someone else mentioned, it (the HAF) will also fit the #5-1/2, #6, and #7 -- eventually giving you 8 planes for the cost of four planes + $75 for the HAF.

I can't see that you could go wrong with either one. Both are excellent planes that will serve you well for many years to come.

James

[Dan Forman]

If you are after a new plane, why not consider the LV bevel up smoother? It's a beautiful plane with an adjustable mouth, more versitile and less money than a LN bevel down.

Dan

[Mike Henderson]

I agree with Dan. The low angle smoother planes are more versatile and in many ways better planes. Before you decide, take a look at them. And consider the Lee Valley planes as well as the LN planes. They're excellent planes and a bit less expensive. They also have one thing that I really like, which is the set screws to hold the blade in position at the mouth. For me, it speeds up the set up of the plane.

Mike

[Hunter Wallace]

Well, I hopped on here to say that I have the L-N 4 & 4-1/2, but
recently tried the LV bevel up and it sure was sweet. So, I'll reiterate
what Dan and Michael said!

[Scott Coffelt]

At the KC WWing show th demonstrator was using the 4 1/2 YP, he basically said the three main ones you need are the low angle jack, 4 1/2 YP and a 7 or 8. From the results he got with curly maple, I'd agree with him.

[Steve Clardy]

Welcome Ken!

[Ken Slemmer]

Many positive thoughts and options on which way to go. I've visited the LV site and read about their planes. With the responses I had read to my question, I am leaning toward the LN 4 1/2 w/HAF. But still in the hunt.

And to ALL thanks...

Ken

[Scott Coffelt]

You might want to think about the Yorkie Pitch, if I understand correctly it gives you an even smoother cut.

[Dave Carson]

After much research, I am waiting on a LN 4 1/2 HAF to arrive. Finetoolj.com has the best price but they were out and said LN was swamped with orders so it might be a few weeks. I used a Rockler 25% off coupon at Woodcraft and ordered it there. It will take 2 weeks from them. Price was $240 with tax.

Dave

[Michael Gabbay]

Dave - If this is your first LN you are in for a big surprise. By April you will have at least one more and then by June probably 2 or 3 more! I think TLN has some sort of drug added to the castings that keeps us coming back for more. :D

I have the 4 1/2 regular pitch and it is one beautiful plane.

Mike

[Mike Henderson]

This is a bit off topic but I want to relate a story about Lie Nielsen customer service.

I purchased a Lie Nielsen 60 1/2R plane. After I received it, I honed the blade and did a few cuts with it just to try it out. Satisfied, I started backing the blade up, not paying much attention. To my surprise, the lever cap fell off and the blade fell out and hit the concrete floor leaving a significant nick in the blade. On closer examination, I noticed that the slot in the lever cap for the screw that holds the lever cap was just a slot, without a countersink. Since the lever cap sits on the blade at two places, the friction was greater than the friction on the screw and the lever cap backed up until it came loose.

I sent a picture of the lever cap to Lie Nielsen with a note asking if my lever cap was milled incorrectly. I received a response from Thomas Lie-Nielsen himself. He said that the lever cap was milled correctly - that all lever caps on the 60 1/2R were made that way but that they would mill me one with a countersink if I wanted it. I asked them to do so since I prefer the lever cap that way.

Pretty good customer service in my book.

Mike

[Dave Carson]

I received a LN60 1/2 as a gift for helping a friend with a computer. I have the LN dovetail saw and chisels as well. Now the 4 1/2 on the way. You can see the slide has begun. I don't know if I will look at a 3 next or a 7 but yes, I am looking.

Dave