Doing a favor--help with veneer

[Duan Packard]

Am helping a friend with his dashboard on his '58 MG and he has purchased some veneer -Walnut with some nice burl-. The veneer has some slight waves in it otherwise is pretty flat.
I have to prepair the dashboard, 3 pieces, where the old veneer is coming off. Seems to be some sort of ply underneath. I know I have to get it all off and remove the old glue. Will be using cauls and clamps to do the new veneer.
Questions. Will I have any special problem with the waves in the veneer?

I know David Marks uses yellow glue which I have but am considering using Tightbond III, any problems??
Other glue to use??

Otherwise I am waiting for warmer weather before doing the glue up

Thanks

Duan

[Matt Meiser]

I've now used Titebond Extend and Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue both with good success. On a dashboard, you are going to get some pretty high temperatures and I would contact the manufacturer before using any particular glue.

There are ways to flatten the veneer. I have an episode of Woodworks on Tivo right now where he flattens veneer, but I can't remember what he used. From my limited veneer experience, as soon as the moisture in the glue hits the veneer its going to get really soft and want to move everywhere, so I would think "slight waves" wouldn't be a problem.

[tod evans]

duan, burled veneer is a fickle animal if you`re not used to working with it, you really should flatten it first i use a veneer relaxer from qvp and press it between 2 pieces of brown paper untill dry. if your dash pieces are flat it`s pretty straight forward, just be sure to put waxed paper between your veneer and caul.....if they`re curved you`ll either need to take a crash course in hammer veneering, get a vacuum bag, or make perfect curved cauls. i would advise against pva (yellow) glue for this application..02 tod

[Duan Packard]

Thanks much for the insite and info.

Any thoughts on using gorilla glue in this application?

Thanks again

Duan

[Zahid Naqvi]

From personal experience, burl veneers tend to have voids. Gorilla glue foams after application and may seep through the voids. The best adhesive I have found for burl veneers is epoxy because it dries clear and glassy. Even if it seeps through the voids you can't see it. If you plan to oil the veneer, which you must for the burl to show properly, the epoxy soaked areas looked exactly as if the veneer was oiled. After you have oiled the veneer and sanded, the leaked epoxy blends perfectly with the oiled veneer. I can't say much about the heat resistance qualities of epoxy. You do have to get the long set epoxy, which will give you about 30 mins.

[Nick Clayton]

Can you use a glycerin and water mixture lightly misted onto the veneer to relax it?

[Don Baer]

Duan,
Whenever I have question about vaneering I refer to Joewoodworkers web site. here is how he recommmends doing what you need to do.

http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/flattening.htm