using a cross-cut sled

[Rob Blaustein]

Are you supposed to pull the sled back after the cut with the blade still spinning or is that a big no-no? Does the technique vary if using a single runner sled (like the Dubby) or the double runner type sled that has a bottom portion on both sides of the blade? I'm thinking of making one of these, and was thinking ahead to its use, but I also might stick to my Festool MFT for now for crosscutting.

[Don Baer]

I could be wrong but I prefer to bring the sled back then turn off the saw. It just seems safer to me since the blade would not be in contact with the piece I just cut.

I forgot to mention that I use holddowns on the piece while its in the sled to prevent any movement. This way I can keep both hands on the sled and away from the blade.

[Scott Donley]

Hi Rob, good question. For me, I always turn the saw off first, I just don't like taking the cut off away from a spinning blade and wouldn't want to draw it back and chance a UFO. In reality I don't know if there is a correct way. Thats why " a good question " am interested to find out what others say.

[Tom Jones III]

If you pulled the wood off after the cut and before pulling it back then you would be reaching over the spinning blade - no way. I either slide the wood sideways a couple inches and then pull it back, or turn off the saw, lower the blade and then pull it back. Which method I use depends on the size of the sled and how easy it is to hold with one hand.

[Jerry Olexa]

I would think it would be safer to turn off saw before bringing sled back. If material you've just cut moves a little, it could go into the spinning blade and result in a dangerous throw/kickback. In spite of that, there are times I do occassionally bring the sled back while running with smaller stock or secured stock. But, best to turn it Off first...IMHO

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I push, pull and turn off.

[Mark Singer]

I have several sleds. A good way to go is push through....move the work piece away from the blade and pull the sled back. That way you are not recutting the work pice on the return . That could mess up the first cut. If you make a valley / peak sled design ...keep your hands in the valleys on the sides...it is very safe that way. Make sure the sled is cut fully by the blade and kickback will not be a problem. If you raise the blade to a new elevation and it grabs the sled...it could kick back...pre cut the sled.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=23711&d=1127059872

[Allen Bookout]

I push, pull and turn off.

Myself included.

[Bruce Page]

I push, pull and turn off.

Ditto what Dennis said.

As long as you have a good runner to slot fit there's no reason to shut the saw off or pull the cut piece away from the blade.
I always use quick grip clamps when I'm cutting large panels, long boards, etc.

[Tim Devery]

I used a one sider last week, did not turn off the blade and backed up. The wood caught the blade on the back stroke and shot accross my shop.
So now I alway's shut off the saw.

[Michael Ballent]

In theory you probably should turn off the saw before you bring the sled back, but few people do that... Especially if you are cross cutting a lot of pieces and you have a stop set up to make the cuts. If you have holddowns in place you would be safer to bring it back while the blade is still spinning. One thing I do not do is move the fence much past the front of the blade... That way the wood is less likely to catch the back of the blade and throw it back at me. I also keep the riving knife attached to my saw when I use the CC sled.

[George Summers]

Once you push the piece/sled through, the workpiece is past the blade as is the front (trailing) fence. In this position, you can slide the workpiece (both sides if necessary) away from the blade and pull the whole sled back with no problems. If your sled is so loose in the miter slots that it can cock and catch the blade then the sled is poorly made to start with (IMHO).

George

[Ken Shoemaker]

I push, pull and turn off.

Yap.. That's he way I do it too...

[Dennis McDonaugh]

I used a one sider last week, did not turn off the blade and backed up. The wood caught the blade on the back stroke and shot accross my shop.
So now I alway's shut off the saw.

Tim, do you have any idea why this happened? Is the table saw or sled out of adjustment or did you move the piece after the inital cut?

[Bill Lewis]

I'll go with what Mark Singer said. I don't like to "double cut" any piece, let alone risk the kickback possibility.

[Pete Harbin]

I do the same that Tom and Mark do...after the cut I slide the piece away from the blade, just an inch or so, nothing that puts my hands closer to the blade...I can usually do this with the hand (left) that is securring the piece. Then I pull the sled back and turn off the saw.

Pete

[Josh Goldsmith]

With me it varies on the piece that i am cutting. If it is a smaller piece i always use a pencil with an eraser on it and move the piece out of the way using the eraser part of the pencil before i bring the sled back to starting position. That way it keep my hands above the blade instead of part of the blade:eek: . When i am doing a bigger piece i usually bring the sled back before i turn the table saw off. I rarely have a double cut. In all reality the piece that you cut off shouldn't move because it just sits there while the sled pushes it through. I hope i made sence. Good luck

[Rob Blaustein]

Thanks for the replies. There is an interesting discussion of this (vis a vis the Dubby) on Jack Loganbill's site:
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/dubby.htm

The relevant part is about a third of the way down on the page--I reproduce it here:
Don't let the workpiece rotate even a fraction of a inch when pulling a crosscut fixture back after a crosscut. If the work piece catches the blade on the way back, you will see first hand the absolute worst type of kick-back. I know, it happened to me! The middle finger of my left hand is 5/8" shorter due to such a kickback. Only the grace of God saved me from losing my head--literally, as the shelf that I was crosscutting flew past me like a Frisbee. To prevent this, the width of the Dubby miter bar is intended to be approximately .003" less than the width of your miter slot. When you make a cut, push the Dubby forward and towards the blade. On the return, pull it backwards and away from the blade... Joel Spencer writes.....
One thing that bothers me about your accident is that in your description you talked about not letting the wood twist when drawing the sled back past the blade and that a well designed guard would have prevented the loss. One piece of wisdom picked up over the years is to never pull a piece of wood back through a running blade unless it is clamped to a sled. Removing the piece of wood from the sled once well past the blade is much safer. Of course, a blade guard is a necessary item as well. Passing on this wisdom would be a service to your visitiors. The current caution about not letting the wood twist is setting someone up for a mishap by making them think that is ok to pull wood back through the blade as long as they are careful. No one can be that careful all of the time. Jack responds.....
I asked Jerry Cole of In-Line Industries designer and maker of the Dubby and he explains that my technique is correct. But you should use the technique that you're most comfortable with.