Question for the electrical gurus

[Jason Morgan]

After netting the $130 Hitach M12V router that Mark Hollingsworth gave the heads up about, I am busy hatching out a plan for the new router table to put around it. Have it all planned out, then I get to the switch. Mag switch is going to run >$50, and I found some toggle type switches that people dont seem to thrilled about. Then I get to thinking, why cant I just make one. Get a box and buy a switch and hook it up. Im thinking a heavy duty 20 amp 110V switch will work. Is this correct? My real question is , how does the horsepower of the motor figure into it. I saw in the prefab magnetic switches that some were rated for more or less HP. Does this matter for mechanical switches?

[Don Baer]

Jason,
I would just buy one of these from Rockler. They cost $25.00
http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/63026-lg.jpg

[Brian Parker]

If you are looking to pull more than 15amps on it then I would build my own.

I didn't double check it but when I got my switch from Rockler (shown above in Don's post) I thought it was rated at 15amp. If you changed out the wires and put in 12gauge into it and ran it out of it then you could get away with pulling a 20amp load through it, that is as long as the internal components aren't whats limiting the Rockler switch to 15amp.

If you build you own make sure that your switch is rated at 20amp, i think that most common household swithes are 15amp so check for a 20amp one (will proab cost more $$)

HTH sorry for it being rushed but I'm heading to lunch now.

[Bob Nazro]

Jason,
Here is what I have on both of my router tables. I have a duplex box with a single switch and a duplex outlet. I have connected a 10' male ended power cord into the box and through the switch. I also made up a 2' pig-tale power cord that goes inside of the table. I plug the router into the pig-tale and use the switch to turn the router on and off.
The primary reason for the pig-tale is safety. I always unplug the pig-tale when I change bits or adjust the height of the router. This eliminates the possibility of accidental "power on" when my hands are near sharp things. I have the box mounted on the left side of the table. This keeps it away from my legs and is in a natural position for access to turn it off. If the switch is on the right side of the table you would need to let go of the stock to shut things down. This is not a natural movement.

[James A. Wolfe]

I started out with the switch similar to the Rockler item listed but I didn't like reaching around under the table to snag the cord to unplug the router.
Plan B
. http://assets.twacomm.com/assets/1775691107/product_images/19139.jpg?SSImageQuality=Full
This worked great until I unknowingly bumped the switch while unplugged. When I had made the change and decided to plug the router back in, I was instantly informed of my mistake. No bloodshed but a good scare.
Plan C
http://assets.twacomm.com/assets/1775691107/product_images/19141.jpg?SSImageQuality=Full
This switch and pilot light are installed in a 4x4 box alongside a duplex receptacle. The top receptacle remains "on" while the switch controls the lower, router receptacle. The always "on" receptacle has my task light plugged in so that when I get the router switched off, unplugged and out of the table, I can still see what I'm doing. Sounds more complicated than it really is but this setup works for me.

Jim

[Dennis Peacock]

I use a commerail rate standard light switch and a dust proof junction box with dust proof cover - $12
Has worked fine for about 10 years. :D

[Barry O'Mahony]

Jason,

Even common toggle switches should have a HP rating, either on the box or somewhere on the switch.