Bowsaw and its Baby Brother

[Dave Anderson NH]

I've managed to get myself really sidetracked on this tool making thing. I haven't built a piece of furniture in months and excepting a plane rack which I picked the lumber up for today, it doesn't look like I will get to period furniture until Autumn. With what you see in the picture at the bottom or the page, I've now made 7 bowsaws. I'm about worn out on making them. Counting finishing and all the hand shaping, each takes about 15 hours. I also finsihed rubbing out the finish on 3 more panel and marking gages tonite and the second of 3 more brass headed plane adjusting hammers is sitting dormant on the lathe right now.

After quite a bit of use with my 12" bladed bowsaws, I found that I was unable to do really tight curves. The combination of size and weight, and the 1/4" height of my smalles blade prevented really tight curves. Since I really like the shape and style of the 18th century pattern 12" saw, I decided to wing it by making a smaller saw to use the standard 6" cut length pin style coping saw blades. I had a bit tiger maple left from the same boards I made the earlier saws from so I figured there would be a good match. After all, everyone needs a matched set of saws.

The saws were shaped and then dyed with an analine dye. Then I gave them a good heavy coat of boiled linseed oil to pop the grain, wiping off the excess as needed. The top coat is a dozen coats of 1# cut dewaxed garnet shellac rubbed out with steel wool and paste wax. The paddle for tightening the cord and the handles are black walnut treated essentially the same way.

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

...........those beauties are works of Art Dave! Outstanding pair of Saws. I don't think you could have used a better choice of wood, the design of these saws just lends itself to the look and character of Tiger Maple. Kinda gives them the old world look they deserve. Definitely A-1 work, and more than just saws...........heirlooms for sure! Thanks for sharing the photo, FABULOUS work, as always. :D

[John Miliunas]

Ah, where do you plug them in? And, you never mentioned what size motors those puppies take! :D (Nice job, Dave!) :cool:

[Philip Duffy]

-- - -beautiful, and a nice touch with the glass of wine! Phil



I've managed to get myself really sidetracked on this tool making thing. I haven't built a piece of furniture in months and excepting a plane rack which I picked the lumber up for today, it doesn't look like I will get to period furniture until Autumn. With what you see in the picture at the bottom or the page, I've now made 7 bowsaws. I'm about worn out on making them. Counting finishing and all the hand shaping, each takes about 15 hours. I also finsihed rubbing out the finish on 3 more panel and marking gages tonite and the second of 3 more brass headed plane adjusting hammers is sitting dormant on the lathe right now.

After quite a bit of use with my 12" bladed bowsaws, I found that I was unable to do really tight curves. The combination of size and weight, and the 1/4" height of my smalles blade prevented really tight curves. Since I really like the shape and style of the 18th century pattern 12" saw, I decided to wing it by making a smaller saw to use the standard 6" cut length pin style coping saw blades. I had a bit tiger maple left from the same boards I made the earlier saws from so I figured there would be a good match. After all, everyone needs a matched set of saws.

The saws were shaped and then dyed with an analine dye. Then I gave them a good heavy coat of boiled linseed oil to pop the grain, wiping off the excess as needed. The top coat is a dozen coats of 1# cut dewaxed garnet shellac rubbed out with steel wool and paste wax. The paddle for tightening the cord and the handles are black walnut treated essentially the same way.

[Glenn Clabo]

All I can say is WOW! Inspiring work Dave.

[Terry Quiram]

Dave

Great looking saws. I love curly maple. I never did thank you for the set of plans you sent. Thanks. :D As of yet I havn't had a chance to make one, "but its on the list." Do you take the tension off when you are finished for the day?

Terry

[Doug Evans]

It is an imperitive!

Doug

[Carl Eyman]

Truly up to the quality we expect from Dave Anderson of NH

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

[QUOTE= I've now made 7 bowsaws. I'm about worn out on making them.

It is kind of fun to make bow saws. I have made thirty or forty over the years. Some of them I have sold to people who just want them to hang on the wall for decoration. The saws you have made are very good looking. They don't cut badly once you learn to use them. Thanks for posting.

[Dave Anderson NH]

Thanks for the kind words folks. They were fun to make, and they cut really well after a very short bit of practice on some scrap. In fact, at Wood Days at Canterbury I used the bowsaw to cut out the basic shape of the fences for the panel and marking gages I was making for my annual tool making demo. Terry- I don't bother taking the tension off the saws when I'm finished, the blades are short enough that I'm not really worried about them stretching like a bandsaw blade would. Doug- the saws are definately coming to Fergus/Cambridge/wherever in October along with a few other choice little items of interest to those of the Galootish persuasion. Don- 30 or 40? I hope they were space out over a good few years. 7 in the space of a year and a half means it will be a few years before I want to make any again. Phil- the glass of wine in my photos has become a bit of a joke trademark over the years. I get a lot of grief from some friends if I forget to inset one in my photos of projects. They do however excuse me when I take photos of events where it would be inappropriate. Though come to think of it, when isn't a glass of wine appropriate? LOL

[Jason Roehl]

They do however excuse me when I take photos of events where it would be inappropriate. Though come to think of it, when isn't a glass of wine appropriate? LOL

After all, it's NOON somewhere!!

[Steve Clardy]

Truly impressive work. [Got a cordless battery stuck in the end of them somewhere?] Steve

[Phil Phelps]

Very impressive. Lead on.

[Mike Schwing]

Boy you make some pretty stuff. A dozen coats? Sprayed on, wiped, or brushed?

[Dave Anderson NH]

I don't own any spray gear, and the results of brushing the shellac onto earlier bowsaws required a lot of cleanup with a sharp chisel and sandpaper to remove drips.The curved surfaces make brushing a losing proposition so I now pad the shellac on. As you might guess, finishing with a dozen coats of a 1# cut takes a bunch of time. I mixed the 1# cut since it is hard to apply a single coat heavily and it dries quickly without drips (well, almost). Thinner works out better in this case though my patience has often worn thin before I got all the coats in place.

[Teresa Jones]

Dave,

My first look at your work with the bow saws. WOW!!

There is just something about a bow saw...boy, do you do it justice.

I wonder if you would share your source for the hardware? I have a 12" Marples bow saw I purchased at a junk sale. The pins holding the blade are permanently fused. Do you know where I can purchase new handles?

Your work is inspiring, Dave.

Thank you for sharing.

TJ

[Dave Anderson NH]

Unfortunately the hardware was not purchased. I made it myself. the 5/16" brass rod was notched at the end to remove half of the diameter for a length of slightly over 1/2" and then rounded on my wood lathe. I then drilled a hole in the flat area and tapped it with a #8 tap set. A 1 foot length of #8 threaded rod from Home Depot was 99 cents. I put the threaded rod in the vise and file the threads away and then cut it off leaving about 3/16" of thread. I screwed it into the brass and held it with a drop of Loctite. The other end of the brass rod was epoxied into the turned walnut handles and left to cure overnite. I'll post a detail photo of the handle tonite when I get home from work.

[Teresa Jones]

Thank you very much for the information. I should have realized you made the hardware as well.

Anxiously awaiting the photos!!

TJ

[Dave Anderson NH]

This should give a better idea of how the blades are held.

[Teresa Jones]

Thanks for the photo, Dave.

Now I understand your previous post. I really appreciate that folks like you avail themselves to those of us aspiring to a higher level of skill.

I just came from over at WoodCentral where there are several threads on the hand tool forum discussing teaching young children the craft. I was totally overwhelmed at the Dad's taking their daughter's to the shop. I treasure every minute I spent at my Dad's side, even though he is not a woodworker.

Best regards,

TJ

[Roger Turnbough]

Good Afternoon Dave,

I was wondering if you could post a picture of the disassembled joints where the crossbeam meets the arms. It looks like in the pictures that the stretcher has a rounded end that more or less sits in a saddle in the arms. Is this a correct assumption?

Is there a small stub tenon involved to help keep everything in line.

Inquiring minds want to know.

P.S. Im taking a bowsaw making class from Gil Chesbro this Saturday at Galootapalooza 8! :)

Thanks much,

Roger
South of Chicago

[Dave Anderson NH]

Hi Roger- I have lurked on Old Tools for 4-5 years, but somehow I never got around to signing up. The joint is a standard mortise and tenon joint with the tenon shoulders cut back along with the two long sides of the mortise. The saw design is from an 18th century replica used by Mack Headley (Colonial Williamsburg's master cabinetmaker).

[Tom Stovell]

Very nice work, not that I would expect anything less after seeing the previous pictures of your work.

Just a couple of things...
1. If there are plans available, I would appreciate a link to where ever you found them, or if it is available through email I would appreciate that as well.
2. When did you switch from white wine to a blush? That almost looks like a 'white Zin' rather than your usual 'Chard'

TomS

[Paul Barnard]

When did you switch from white wine to a blush? That almost looks like a 'white Zin' rather than your usual 'Chard'

I figured Dave was chosing his wine specificly to highlight the colouration of his projects ;)

[Tom Stovell]

I figured Dave was chosing his wine specificly to highlight the colouration of his projects ;)
Now I've heard of matching the wine to the food, but trying to match a particular vintage to the specific project may be a tad obsessive. Not that there isn't more than one slope on which you can slide, but now we've opened that whole 'match-the-hatch' mentality on a completely innocent activity. Maybe we should also include some single malts, and micro-brews....just to expand both the palette and wood choices.

TomS

[Teresa Jones]

Dave,

Well, after searching everywhere for 5/16 inch brass rod, I finally found one at a local hardware store here. The gentleman also steered me to a plumbing compression fitting that was perfect for replacing the ferrule on the Marples bow saw.

I was able to fashion the new blade holder following your instructions. They turned out pretty good.

Thanks,

TJ

[Dave Anderson NH]

I'm glad you were able to find what you needed. For future reference, 360 brass rod is available form MSC Industrial Supply and from McMaster-Carr, though both sell only in 6 foot lengths. Both places are also good suppliers for tools steel for making blades and other items. My personal preference is for O1 tool steel since it is so easy to harden, quench and anneal.

[Graham Wilson]

I'm looking to build a few saws like this but I'm a little lost on where to find the hardware & blades? Is it possible to buy the brass blade holders shown? Likewise, how are the blade holders attached to the handles?

Thanks for the inspiration,
Graham

[Jim Nardi]

Very Nice Saw's. Tool making is a very addictive hobby onto itself. I wonder in the future if someone will treasure our home made tools as much as we do.

[Howie French]

Dave, great looking bowsaws.... I really enjoy your work.

thanks for taking the time to share and for providing the detailed pics.

Howie

[Michael Pilla]

Graham, there is a supplir called Tools for Working Wood (dot com) that sells kits. Their saw is more of a turning saw but the pins can be purchased seperately and used to make your own style bow saw.

I'm glad this thread got revived, those saws are beautiful.

Michael

[Dave Anderson NH]

Joel's saw kits at Tools For Working Wood are an excellent buy and I highly recommend them. You can also buy just the hardware and the blades from him if you want a different wood than the hickory that he sues.

[Graham Wilson]

Many thanks for the tips. The pins on these (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=BIGP&description=Gramercy+Tools+Turning+Saw+Parts&fullimagepath=/prodimg/gt/big/GT-BOWSXX_big.gif), look perfect. A few more questions:

- How are the Gramercy blades and how quickly to they dull when sawing hardwoods (beech/maple/cherry/walnut)?
- Will these pins also work for mounting bandsaw blades?
- Does anyone have a recommendation for thicker straight-cut blades?

Thanks again!
Graham

[Michael Pilla]

I agree with just buying the hardware and making your own saw. I think most any hardwood is fine. I can't answer any questions about the Gramercy blades but Joel at TFFW sometimes makes appearances on various forums. You can also email him through the website; very acommodating folks there.

Putsch makes a line of frame saws that are sold at places like Highland Woodworking and Woodcraft. They also sell replacement blades for these saws in various tooth configurations and they are relatively inexpensive. Some folks make their blades from bandsaw blades.

Here are a few good framesaw links to private sites:
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/bowsaw.html
http://userdata.acd.net/chesbrog/bowsaw/bowsaw.htm
http://ai-engineered.com/isderf-bowsaw.html

enjoy,
Michael

[Joel Moskowitz]

Many thanks for the tips. The pins on these (http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=BIGP&description=Gramercy+Tools+Turning+Saw+Parts&fullimagepath=/prodimg/gt/big/GT-BOWSXX_big.gif), look perfect. A few more questions:

- How are the Gramercy blades and how quickly to they dull when sawing hardwoods (beech/maple/cherry/walnut)?
- Will these pins also work for mounting bandsaw blades?
- Does anyone have a recommendation for thicker straight-cut blades?

Thanks again!
Graham

1) They are pretty good blades and last as long as a quality coping saw blade - longer actually as the stroke is longer so each part of the blade works less.
2) yes - the slot in the pins is .030"
3) just get a wide thin bandsaw blade and make your own.

joel

[Robert Rozaieski]

- How are the Gramercy blades and how quickly to they dull when sawing hardwoods (beech/maple/cherry/walnut)?

They are excellent! I got some and modified my old bowsaw by turning the original holes in the pins into slots with a little hacksaw and file work so that I could mount the grammercy blades. The blades are much thinner than the one that originally came with my saw. Because of this, they cut faster (but smoother because of there are more teeth per inch than my original) and can make a tighter curve. A word of warning though, keep the blade turned away from you when you put the saw down on the bench cause they bite (DAMHIKT :D ). They are really sharp!