Sumpy 2

[Warren Lake]

Started on the next one today. This time thought ill try and cut it down to a few inches below the surface and cover. So far cutting the first high root its being a pain. I dug down low so I would not be into the dirt and clay and washed it down a number of times. Did cross cuts and snapped pieces off with the great pry bar. Last cut got no where as there are stones in it.

how do you bring a chain back to sharp when you have hit hard stuff and rounded the top tips off. The file simply cant remove material and im even questioning the quality of the stihl files. A while back i was filing rakers with the stihl file. I thought how poor it was and tried a double cut file. Night and day that was. For this cause if trashed the chain if taken the rakers down with a grinder. I dont saw stop chain saw right now.

Are there better files than the stihl stuff. I guess I could try new as well. My view of these files the round anyway 3/16" I think juist dont stay sharp every long and ill have to buy more new ones to prove that. I need to remove alot of material say at least 25 percent or more from the tip to the wear indicator line. Doing this by hand at least with this files is mickey mouse and will just take too long. Then maybe these files are dull. Are you using a file cleaner on these chain saw files?

Will post some tip photos they came out fuzzy could not get the camera to focus. They are rounded at least .030 some a fair bit more. should be using a sawzall for this. Chainsaw cuts faster then the chain is trashed. I use the longest Milwaukee Axe blades in the sawzall past and re sharpen it myself as i go or a bulk of them. that tool and those blades work well

[Bill George]

You really need this... https://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-63803.html

If you lived closer I have some black powder I am not using.

[Warren Lake]

I tried putting a file in a drill and it was useless. ILl see today if I have new files and answer that question then still that one file of my own that was double cut that I used on the rakers it just worked better. The files I was using yesterday all felt poor and like they were not doing much. I have tons of material to remove to get to sharp.

Title should have been stumpy 2.

[Alex Zeller]

You may have damaged the chain beyond repair. If so even if you sharpen it the chain will loose it's edge very quickly. I have several different ways of sharpening chains but I usually resort to just using a dremel with a stone they make specifically for chainsaw chains. It's quick but not too quick. I've tried the Harbor Freight ones and they are too course for me. They remove too much of the tooth and require the chain to be removed from the saw making that type of sharpener too time consuming. For a badly damaged chain it could be a viable option.

[Ken Combs]

You may have damaged the chain beyond repair. If so even if you sharpen it the chain will loose it's edge very quickly. I have several different ways of sharpening chains but I usually resort to just using a dremel with a stone they make specifically for chainsaw chains. It's quick but not too quick. I've tried the Harbor Freight ones and they are too course for me. They remove too much of the tooth and require the chain to be removed from the saw making that type of sharpener too time consuming. For a badly damaged chain it could be a viable option.
Dremel with the right stones can restore the tooth shape but it's really hard to be consistent tooth to tooth. I take my chains to a shop to resharpen and buy a couple of new loops occasionally. Well worth the price to get the geometry right again. My use is not heavy enough to justify a good sharpener. That and I don't really want to learn how.

[Warren Lake]

yes sure ive done big damage, sorry on no photos as they turned out poor but might have one that at least shows. Basically I rounded the leading top edge and with filing it did nothing as I have to get past the rounding then there is so much rounding that getting their is grief.

That is a good idea the die grinder now would have no control and even if it didnt bounce around for sure things would be uneven and wonky. First I better start with a new file to answer that question. Chain was way over heated as it was smoking. Ill check my die grinder bit collection thanks its worth a try as well

Here is the best I have from photos yesterday. I knew it was not focusing and could not get better. A lot depended on light and angles but you can see how rounded say the left one is. That was filed before the photo I think so you can see how far id have to grind back to get to a crisp edge.


520896

[Tom M King]

There is still plenty of cutter there to sharpen. You just have to get back past the rounded down part. That would be too much for me too with a file. You can go all the way back to the line and the chain will still cut. The cutter slopes up, so you have to lower the depth gauge teeth as you shorten the cutter.

I use a depth tooth gauge but not on every tooth. The correct depth will be shown on the bar. I count the number of strokes it takes to get down to the gauge and then count strokes on all the other depth gauges.

That chain is a Long way from done.

Keep the cutter angle the same as that line on top of the tooth. In the picture you can see one cutter is too sharp pointed and the other the opposite. A chain sharpened like that will pull to one side.

They don't like to cut dirt and one quick touch in the dirt is enough to cause a lot of trouble.

Edited to add: Here's an example of the depth gauge and file. The gauges come in a lot of different sizes. I only play with different depths on my big hot rod saw. Stick to stock on the little guys. The depth gauge files are smooth on the edges so a slip won't dull a cutter.
https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-27742-Depth-Gauge-Guide/dp/B00004RA7A/ref=sr_1_5?

[Warren Lake]

Hi Tom

Do understand what I have there and how it works and happy to have you tell me as im on track. The chip limiters I have the gauge and I always go past. Ive used power tools long enough and before anti kick back things were in many tools. For them the file is a waste of time I use a grinder im of the mindset that I take them way too far and dont care as this is really rough work. On my normal work I have the limiters down lower than the gauge.

I think first is to one answer if my files are toast and second if there are better files like the raker one I have the double cut file and it just plain works better. If the file was working great I have he patience to take them back im just not making progress some it feels more like its gliding over rather than biting in. Ill try a file cleaner as well just in case they file is loaded up.

[Warren Lake]

Found one new file and five old ones question answered the new file cuts great compared. At 70 to 100 strokes per tooth it goes down hill. Didnt find my file brush its here, lost in the mass. I bang the file and it clears chips every 10 strokes. I can feel a difference right away so the file is loading as well.

Im using the simple file guide and used to do more free hand just a file. I realize my angle free hand was a times too low and I was biting into the actual chain. My view the tooth is high speed steel and would think the chain itself is stronger and if so then its going to dull the file more. With the guide now I can see and not run into the the chain itself. I know there is the better sharpener from stihl, I dont have one and this original simple one is fine. I think all I read about the fancy one was positive.

Neighbours having a barbeque so will switch to pole trimming white pines its quiet so wont bug them. stunning day perfect great breeze and temps.

[Warren Lake]

larry which one of the grinders do you have? I looked up Princess Auto and there are two of them. One double price which is fine. I saw a you tube of the cheaper one and its good from the aspect every tooth will be the same provided its not too cheaply made. I can see they are way fast and consistent if they really are consistant. As you said a number of sharp chains get the work done and then nother day sharpen in the shop. Grinding wheel different than files. I wear files too fast on large material removal.

I wont need six chains like you and past often did a light touch up after a tank of gas. On regular work I kept that thing wicked sharp bit of cheating on the limiters. I can feel it grabbing way more now as I took them down too far on purpose. Im in end grain on some and the extra nasty is helping. Roots are breaking up just firing the pry bar in and break apart. I cross cut them into sections.