Hand Saw to Purchase

[Tom Saurer]

For my birthday I received some money for the purchase of tools. I would like to get a nice western backsaw for doing dovetails and other misc. cuts as needed. With money being tight, I was going to hit some of the local flea markets to see if I can find a used one. I know the basics, no pitting, a useable handle, no missing teeth, rip set, and a blade that doesn't resemble a hockey stick. Is there anything else that I should be aware of or looking for? I try to stay brand neutral. I'm simply looking for a good useable saw.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Tom,

Most any of the older saws will be top performers with a little work. In general, a smaller open handle saw will have a thinner guage of steel which some prefer. But, the list of things you mention to look for will guide you well.

I would mention that rip teeth are not a necessity, not only for the DT cutting, but as it will most likely need sharpening, you can easily change it to rip if you desire. In fact, if you find a really early 20th century or older saw, chances are it will not be rip unless someone has changed the teeth.

One way to guesstimate the age is to find one with a well shaped handle. As manufacturers sought cost cutting, the main way was to work the wood less.

But then, if you find a nice saw with an otherwise uncomfortable handle, we are woodworkers and rasps and or files will soften the edges into a more pleasing shape to hold.

Take care, Mike

[Dennis McDonaugh]

For my birthday I received some money for the purchase of tools. I would like to get a nice western backsaw for doing dovetails and other misc. cuts as needed. With money being tight, I was going to hit some of the local flea markets to see if I can find a used one. I know the basics, no pitting, a useable handle, no missing teeth, rip set, and a blade that doesn't resemble a hockey stick. Is there anything else that I should be aware of or looking for? I try to stay brand neutral. I'm simply looking for a good useable saw.

Tom, You probably aren't going to find an old saw that will cut worth a darn without a little work. Just try to find a thin bladed, 8-10 inch saw that fits your hand with a heft you like. You can worry about sharpening it to your liking later. I'm partial to open handled saws, but that's personal preference. Like Mike said, most old saws are crosscut, not rip filed. Personally I like the rip blade because it cuts more aggressively. With 15 tpi or finer, you're going to get a pretty smooth cut even with a rip profile.

[Tom Saurer]

Thanks for the advice. I realize that there will be some work involved, including sharpening, which I will need to learn anyways.

[Bob Smalser]

Until you find the old saws you like and finish rehabbing them, I recommend a simple Shark pull saw with both rip and xct teeth to use in the interim.

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0000224U3.01-A2N6NO8W19JCUN._SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

You'll find lots of uses for it anyway as an excellent flushcutter. Nothing weaves corners on cedar siding or trims planks at transoms better.

[Keith Hooks]

Tom, I can't speak from experience (I'm actually in the market myself) but the most recent issue of FWW has reviews on various dovetail saws that you might find helpful. Good luck and let us know what you decide.

[tod evans]

Until you find the old saws you like and finish rehabbing them, I recommend a simple Shark pull saw with both rip and xct teeth to use in the interim.

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0000224U3.01-A2N6NO8W19JCUN._SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

You'll find lots of uses for it anyway as an excellent flushcutter. Nothing weaves corners on cedar siding or trims planks at transoms better.

these are great disposa-saws...02 tod