Need a New Resaw Blade

[Pat Germain]

Back in 2008 I bought a Grizzly G0513X2 band saw. (Bear Head wheels!) Shortly thereafter I ordered a resaw blade from Timberwolf. Then my power tools were put away for about 8 years while I restored a classic car. Now I've got my woodworking shop going again, but it seems I lost my resaw blade during a move two years ago.

I think I had a 1/2" 1 TPI blade from Timberwolf. Does that sound correct? Would you folks recommend buying the same blade again? I recall Timberwolf made good blades and I think I saw them at my local Woodcraft. However, for all I know, Timberwolf could have been sold to a company in Shanghai which now rebrands blades of bubblegum and sawdust.

I would appreciate any advice for a new resaw blade.

Thanks.

[David Buchhauser]

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz1_HpIYM24D8eQjpzxG-XD4aP03NCRJ5ZZnF3MW7OMX8kztNqw4eqNgaAtv7EALw_wcB

This is where I buy my resaw blades.
David

[Edward Weber]

Not a Timberwolf fan but putting that aside, for resawing on that saw, I would go for a 3/4"- 3 blade.
JMO

[Pat Germain]

Not a Timberwolf fan but putting that aside, for resawing on that saw, I would go for a 3/4"- 3 blade.
JMO

Does the "3" mean 3 TPI?

[Pat Germain]

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz1_HpIYM24D8eQjpzxG-XD4aP03NCRJ5ZZnF3MW7OMX8kztNqw4eqNgaAtv7EALw_wcB

This is where I buy my resaw blades.
David

Thanks. I will check it out.

[Cameron Wood]

I'm about to try this- good reviews in recent discussion here.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BB5XM1FC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2D9P79GQBLOBI&th=1

[Edward Weber]

Does the "3" mean 3 TPI?



Yes
3/4' is typically better for resawing and 3 tpi is really all that saw needs.

[Jimmy Harris]

I use a Timberwolf 3/4" 2-3 variable TPI blade on my G0513 for resawing. I don't have a ton of experience with it yet, but so far, I really like that blade. It tends to leave a rough surface, but it cuts fast and straight. And they're still made in the same place by the same people. I mainly got this blade because I don't do a ton of resawing and this one was fairly cheap. Prices can vary, so you may want to shop around if you go this route.

I've heard that the Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking is a meat cutting blade, adapted for woodworking. And that's not necessarily a bad thing. It just means it has a thinner kerf and gives a smoother surface and cuts faster with less power. However, if the blade wanders at all, it's real hard to get it back on track, so you need to have everything perfectly tuned up to get the most out of it. I've also heard they can dull really quickly. They're typically the choice for people working with expensive wood and needing to get the most out of each board. They're not typically for people working with cheaper domestic wood and needing to get the most out of their blade.

Then there are carbide and bi-metal blades if you demand longevity and are willing to pay more. The Laguna 3/4" Resaw King is probably the top blade here, and it can be resharpened several times to extend the life of the blade even further and save you money. But it's gonna be expensive to get into.

It's like that old product triangle. You get to choose two. Cut quality, price, or longevity. You can't have all three.

[Pat Germain]

I use a Timberwolf 3/4" 2-3 variable TPI blade on my G0513 for resawing. I don't have a ton of experience with it yet, but so far, I really like that blade. It tends to leave a rough surface, but it cuts fast and straight. And they're still made in the same place by the same people. I mainly got this blade because I don't do a ton of resawing and this one was fairly cheap. Prices can vary, so you may want to shop around if you go this route.

I've heard that the Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking is a meat cutting blade, adapted for woodworking. And that's not necessarily a bad thing. It just means it has a thinner kerf and gives a smoother surface and cuts faster with less power. However, if the blade wanders at all, it's real hard to get it back on track, so you need to have everything perfectly tuned up to get the most out of it. I've also heard they can dull really quickly. They're typically the choice for people working with expensive wood and needing to get the most out of each board. They're not typically for people working with cheaper domestic wood and needing to get the most out of their blade.

Then there are carbide and bi-metal blades if you demand longevity and are willing to pay more. The Laguna 3/4" Resaw King is probably the top blade here, and it can be resharpened several times to extend the life of the blade even further and save you money. But it's gonna be expensive to get into.

It's like that old product triangle. You get to choose two. Cut quality, price, or longevity. You can't have all three.

Thanks. Yeah, the Resaw King looks way cool, but I just bought an outdoor pizza oven and can't spend $200 right now. Although, if it's a really good blade, I think it would be worthwhile. (Everyone in the family gets to benefit from the pizza oven, but only I would use the resaw blade.)

[Jimmy Harris]

Thanks. Yeah, the Resaw King looks way cool, but I just bought an outdoor pizza oven and can't spend $200 right now. Although, if it's a really good blade, I think it would be worthwhile. (Everyone in the family gets to benefit from the pizza oven, but only I would use the resaw blade.)

Use it to make a pizza peel! Then everyone gets to benefit from the Resaw King!

[Pat Germain]

Use it to make a pizza peel! Then everyone gets to benefit from the Resaw King!

Great idea!

[Curt Harms]

It seems like Timberwolf blades are one of those things that most swear by, some swear at. As far as blade width, I'd take the manufacturer's rated width and go down one 'size'. If the manufacturer says a say will support a 1" blade, I'd probably go with a 3/4" blade. I think for resawing fewer teeth with deeper gullets for sawdust removal is generally better.

[Pat Germain]

It seems like Timberwolf blades are one of those things that most swear by, some swear at. As far as blade width, I'd take the manufacturer's rated width and go down one 'size'. If the manufacturer says a say will support a 1" blade, I'd probably go with a 3/4" blade. I think for resawing fewer teeth with deeper gullets for sawdust removal is generally better.

That makes sense. Thanks.

Interestingly, back in 2008 it seemed like everyone swore by Timberwolf. Seems the perceptions have changed.

[Jamie Buxton]

Carbide-tipped bandsaw blades last longer than steel blades, and this more than makes up for the higher purchase price. My resaw blade of choice is the Lennox Woodmasyer CT. On my Laguna 16HD, I use a 1” Blade.

[Curt Harms]

That makes sense. Thanks.

Interestingly, back in 2008 it seemed like everyone swore by Timberwolf. Seems the perceptions have changed.

More experience most likely IMO.

[James Jayko]

I think there are two schools of thought here. Either spend $150-200 on a Resaw King or Wood Slicer (or pick your favorite carbide toothed high end blade), or buy 3-4 Timberwolf or comparable blades and just replace it when it stops performing well. What matters is that its sharp, and if you don't resaw often, its probably feels more economical to just buy a new, sharp, cheaper blade when you need it. Probably more expensive in the long run, but its six of one, half a dozen of another I think.

Sharp is what matters. If a brand new $50 blade for a particular resaw project is the most economical way to do that, do it.

[Cameron Wood]

I think there are two schools of thought here. Either spend $150-200 on a Resaw King or Wood Slicer (or pick your favorite carbide toothed high end blade), or buy 3-4 Timberwolf or comparable blades and just replace it when it stops performing well. What matters is that its sharp, and if you don't resaw often, its probably feels more economical to just buy a new, sharp, cheaper blade when you need it. Probably more expensive in the long run, but its six of one, half a dozen of another I think.

Sharp is what matters. If a brand new $50 blade for a particular resaw project is the most economical way to do that, do it.



What about set, and kerf width? Some blades are sharp- they cut fast but leave a rough surface and a fat kerf.

[Jimmy Harris]

What about set, and kerf width? Some blades are sharp- they cut fast but leave a rough surface and a fat kerf.

It depends on what you're cutting. If you're resawing expensive veneer, then kerf absolutely matters. And you probably want a smooth surface to minimize flattening and smoothing afterwards, because smoothing thin veneer can be hard. But if you're resawing boards in half for drawers or whatever, then it probably matters a whole lot less.

Even good bandsaw blades tend to give a bit too rough of a surface to call it finished, in my opinion. So I don't much worry about a rough surface because I'm going to be planing it afterwards anyway. And a wider kerf blade does tend to cut straighter on longer boards, just because it can recover from deflection easier. There's more wiggle room in the cut for the blade to get back on track, should it veer off slightly. And I don't really mess with veneer or super expensive exotics so saving fractions of an inch doesn't do me anything. But I do only have one bandsaw, so having a resaw blade that can also do long rips and gentle curves is a plus to me, so I don't have to change blades as often. So a wider kerf is actually an advantage to me. But it won't be to everyone.

But regardless of what your cutting, sharp always matters. Unless you're trying to burn wood with a dull blade, which I don't know why you would, I can't think of a reason where sharpness wouldn't matter.

[Cameron Wood]

It depends on what you're cutting. If you're resawing expensive veneer, then kerf absolutely matters. And you probably want a smooth surface to minimize flattening and smoothing afterwards, because smoothing thin veneer can be hard. But if you're resawing boards in half for drawers or whatever, then it probably matters a whole lot less.

Even good bandsaw blades tend to give a bit too rough of a surface to call it finished, in my opinion. So I don't much worry about a rough surface because I'm going to be planing it afterwards anyway. And a wider kerf blade does tend to cut straighter on longer boards, just because it can recover from deflection easier. There's more wiggle room in the cut for the blade to get back on track, should it veer off slightly. And I don't really mess with veneer or super expensive exotics so saving fractions of an inch doesn't do me anything. But I do only have one bandsaw, so having a resaw blade that can also do long rips and gentle curves is a plus to me, so I don't have to change blades as often. So a wider kerf is actually an advantage to me. But it won't be to everyone.

But regardless of what your cutting, sharp always matters. Unless you're trying to burn wood with a dull blade, which I don't know why you would, I can't think of a reason where sharpness wouldn't matter.


Good points. I was responding to the inference that sharp is the only thing that matters ("sharp is what matters"). I'm fortunate to have two band saws, so one is set up with a wider blade, and is often used to cut tenon cheeks and other joinery, so a smooth cut is desirable.

[Edward Weber]

I knew what you were getting at Cameron.

Of course we want all of our cutting edges sharp, that's on page 4 in the book of unwritten rules.
Other than "sharp" all other blade parameters are subject to the saw and what your desired resulting cut should be.
The OP asked about resaw, lots of ways to go about it.

IMO many folks go a bit overkill as if they're maxing out the saw with every cut, when in reality it may only be 25% or less of the time that they're resawing a 12" board and a dedicated resaw blade is unwarranted.
Any blade can resaw, if you use if properly.

It's sometimes better to get a more general purpose or all around blade for the bulk of the cutting, which will usually be fine for the occasional resaw, if you don't like changing blades.