LLAMBRICH Intergrated arbor and chuck

[Patty Hann]

Opinions, please on integrated arbor and chuck for a DP.
Am looking at the LLAMBRICH Keyless chucks ... integrated 2MT shank/arbor

1/32" to 3/8" (part# JK10-MT2)

1/32" to 1/2" (JK13-MT2)

Thanks

[Michael Burnside]

I absolutely love my Llambrich. Incredibly precise and easy to use. I bought mine from Penn Tool Co.

JK-13 MT2 - 63-003-470

[Patty Hann]

I absolutely love my Llambrich. Incredibly precise and easy to use. I bought mine from Penn Tool Co.

JK-13 MT2 - 63-003-470

Good to know... thank you :)

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have the JK-16. Same basic critter, except capacity is 1/8" - 5/8"

Got mine from Amazon 4 years ago - not carried there any longer, apparently.

I didn't need to go below 1/8" on the Nova Voyager floor DP. Honestly, I didn't need to go above 3/8" either. But with the investment in this critter, I was thinking about the future when my wife gets it out of my dead cold hands and puts it up for resale - figger that extra top-end could be useful on the used market.

Patty - that's what puts holes in that round sacrificial table plug we were talking about.

[Patty Hann]

I have the JK-16. Same basic critter, except capacity is 1/8" - 5/8"

Got mine from Amazon 4 years ago - not carried there any longer, apparently.

I didn't need to go below 1/8" on the Nova Voyager floor DP. Honestly, I didn't need to go above 3/8" either. But with the investment in this critter, I was thinking about the future when my wife gets it out of my dead cold hands and puts it up for resale - figger that extra top-end could be useful on the used market.

Patty - that's what puts holes in that round sacrificial table plug we were talking about.
Thank you Kent.
btw I am making my DP table, incorporating some of the "features" you have on yours.
Round sacr. insert, for one.... w/ center offset about 1/2" .
ALso 2 layer BB ply, not quite as big (19 x 17) but w/ removable "outrigger" side supports for longer stock.
Oh, and definitely no "super-dee-duper" cranking system. I think it's great, but I'm not up to fabricating one.
But, back to the shank 'n' chuck... with you and Michael endorsing it, I''ll go ahead and order it.:)

[Kent A Bathurst]

outrigger idea is clever Sac insert will work great - plenty of room for lots of holes.

post photos when you're done

regards

Kent

[Rush Paul]

We have the Llambrich JK13-MT2 check on the Jet JDP-17 drill press in our community woodworking shop. Like Michael Burnside above, we absolutely love it. Superb concentricity (lack of runout) and excellent holding power. Gentle hand tightening is all that's needed.

[Patty Hann]

We have the Llambrich JK13-MT2 check on the Jet JDP-17 drill press in our community woodworking shop. Like Michael Burnside above, we absolutely love it. Superb concentricity (lack of runout) and excellent holding power. Gentle hand tightening is all that's needed.
Thank you Rush.... "Three's a charm" (endorsements :))

[Bill Dufour]

One piece so no added runout. I think it is a great idea unless you spin the taper. If you bend or spin the arbor the chuck is toast. Unlikely to spin it in a drill press with drilling wood. Home shop it will last a lifetime.
How many dp chucks have you worn out so far in your life? Have you even had to take a chuck apart for cleaning or to replace any jaws?
Bill D

[Jim Becker]

I find this idea very interesting, especially the one piece version for simplicity and presumably reduced risk of runout. I just have to somehow get past the idea of the chuck costing as much as I paid for the DP back in the early 2000s (!) as well as the limited use my DP sees, at least in stuff I've been doing for awhile. Thanks for the education on the possibilities!

[Patty Hann]

I find this idea very interesting, especially the one piece version for simplicity and presumably reduced risk of runout. I just have to somehow get past the idea of the chuck costing as much as I paid for the DP back in the early 2000s (!) as well as the limited use my DP sees, at least in stuff I've been doing for awhile. Thanks for the education on the possibilities!
Oh, it's costing me almost 3 times as much as I paid for my little craftsman 1/2 HP Benchtop DP at least 20 years ago.
But I am currently upgrading, so the price of the shank w/chuck is about half the price of the new DP
Interestingly enough both DPs require an MT2 arbor, so I could use the LLambrich on the Craftsman.

[Earl McLain]

I find this idea very interesting, especially the one piece version for simplicity and presumably reduced risk of runout. I just have to somehow get past the idea of the chuck costing as much as I paid for the DP back in the early 2000s (!) as well as the limited use my DP sees, at least in stuff I've been doing for awhile. Thanks for the education on the possibilities!

I hear that argument used for table saw fences and helical planer heads on a regular basis as well. In my mind, when i spent as much on a TS fence as i did for for the saw...taking an okay saw with marginal fence to a very good runner...the saw's value more than doubled to me, and my total cost was still well below what i'd have spent for a saw package that would have brought comparable results. I've gotten to the point of (for the most part) ignoring the cost of the base tool and measuring the value of the attachment on how it helps make my "work" better and/or more enjoyable. Has greatly reduced my anxiety about purchasing upgrades. At least that's the explanation i used with my CFO!!

[Jim Becker]

Oh, I didn't mean to imply anything disparaging about putting a $400 high quality chuck on a DP that originally cost similar money two decades ago. It's just an ironic thing. The same DP today is about double (anecdotally speaking...I didn't look it up) My dilemma is whether or not I actually use my DP enough to justify a very nice keyless chuck whereas. Or even to upgrade to a variable speed DP for that matter.

[Michael Burnside]

I don't use my DP a ton, but a chuck like the Llambrich makes a good drill press a great one. There is exactly one thing that should be built well on a DP and that is the chuck. Most DP machines come with sub-par chucks.

Only one bad thing about the Llambrich. You'll notice the cheap drill bits you've got and your next purchase will be a quality set of bits to take advantaged of that next-to-zero runout :D

[Patty Hann]

I don't use my DP a ton, but a chuck like the Llambrich makes a good drill press a great one. There is exactly one thing that should be built well on a DP and that is the chuck. Most DP machines come with sub-par chucks.

Only one bad thing about the Llambrich. You'll notice the cheap drill bits you've got and your next purchase will be a quality set of bits to take advantaged of that next-to-zero runout :D

I've been using Fuller brad points for a few years now (with the subpar chuck on the craftsman). No use making things worse by using sub par bits too.
And I have a mix of Fisch, Freud, and Colt Maxicut Forstner bits...Also a 29 piece index of [cobalt?] twist bits from Sears, bought in the mid 80s. They still sharpen up very nicely (using a Drill Doctor).

[Bill Dufour]

My dilemma is whether or not I actually use my DP enough to justify a very nice keyless chuck whereas. Or even to upgrade to a variable speed DP for that matter.
Having a vfd means I will slow down the rpm for a big holesaw with. the twist of a knob. I probably would not bother if I had to change belts. That means tools last longer since they do not run too fast and burn the edges.
A used three phase Dp is normally cheaper and better built then a single phase one of similar size. A one hp vfd is under $75 these days.
BilLD

[Earl McLain]

Oh, I didn't mean to imply anything disparaging about putting a $400 high quality chuck on a DP that originally cost similar money two decades ago. It's just an ironic thing. The same DP today is about double (anecdotally speaking...I didn't look it up) My dilemma is whether or not I actually use my DP enough to justify a very nice keyless chuck whereas. Or even to upgrade to a variable speed DP for that matter.

Agreed Jim, and i didn't mean that to be a direct reply to you. Just an opportunity to remind that the motorized part of the tool is not always the key component of making the tool work to its fullest.

Also agree on the drill chuck dilemna--i'm in the same boat as you. But each time i see a thread on the Llambrich i wonder if i'd use my DP more if it was easier to work with (and more accurate). Even worse...i wonder the same thing when read a Nova Voyager thread!! Might make the Llambrich seem inexpensive!!

[Jim Becker]

The projects I have lined up and potentially lined up for this year will give me some indication if making the investment in improving my DP performance would be worth it or not. So I remain happy to have learned about this nice way to improve it.

[Brian Holcombe]

Jim, I bought a few used Albrecht chucks that were in good shape, then replaced a few parts on them with replacements from McMaster. I probably have $200-$250 into each one.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, I bought a few used Albrecht chucks that were in good shape, then replaced a few parts on them with replacements from McMaster. I probably have $200-$250 into each one.
Brian, we will have to have a conversation over a beverage about that sometime. :)

[Bill Dufour]

The drawback to any integrated shank is if you get another machine. If that machine uses a different spindle you will have to buy all new tooling not just switch arbors. Not really an issue for DPs from 3/4 - 3hp are almost all mt2. Above that they go to MT3. I am ignoring euro tapers. Older and smaller DPs may use a male JT
BilL D

[Brian Holcombe]

Sounds good, Jim!

Bill, I agree with your recommendation. FWIW all of the European machines I’ve run into so far have had Morse tapers.

[Patty Hann]

My future DP (soon!) : "JT33 keyed drill chuck is fitted to the MT #2 spindle taper"

My future integrated chuck/arbor
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