Glaziers Points Sizes

[Carroll Courtney]

I’m new to glazing putty, glazers points and new to installing small glass panes like 9”x14”
I can’t find any small glazers points other than #7 which looks to be to big for size of mutton. Where the glass sets the mutton is about 1/4 thick. What I’m asking is where can I get these points that’s smaller than #7, I’m really not sure if I’m calling those points correctly to search. Either Amazon, or big box stores

[Tom M King]

I only know of the small ones used in the old Red Devil point driver guns.

[Tom M King]

I think I put some pictures of those in your older thread on this. They’re pretty tiny. I never use the push in points for that very reason.

[Tom M King]

Probably ebay

[Tom M King]

Search for vintage glaziers points on ebay

[Edward Weber]

https://thecraftsmanstore.com/product/no-wax-no-1-diamond-glazing-points-5-16/

[roger wiegand]

McMaster offers a couple different sizes and styles (https://www.mcmaster.com/products/glass-glazing-points/). Ones for sticking in a sheep (mutton?) are probably big. :D (sorry, couldn't resist)

[Tom M King]

Here are my pictures from that other thread-sorry all sideways. Muntin is 5/8" wide. Part the points are shot into is 1/4" thick.

[Holmes Anderson]

I think the problem that the OP describes may be that the upright squared wings of the points stick out of the glazing fillet because of the depth of the muntins rather than the width of the muntins being too narrow for the sharp ends of the points. In that case she might just set the glass without points. Carroll, if you are new to setting glass then the most important thing IMO is to get the glazing putty worked to the proper temp and consistency. Knead a small handful of putty for about 15 minutes or so with your fingers and palm before setting the glass and the putty will cooperate much better. There is no stretchability straight from the tub so the putty tends to break into pieces. After being warmed up and worked a bit the putty will stretch almost like dough so you can use a putty knife to quickly create a smooth fillet.

[Tom M King]

The points used in my pictures don't have those right angle wings like push in points do.

[Carroll Courtney]

Well heck, I need to google these before I embarrass myself mullions or muntins🙄

[Carroll Courtney]

Thanks guys, I ran down to Ace and the ones they have does have that wing. Ones I pulled out are diamond shape but small. Tom I’ll have go back look at pictures but think those diamond shape needs that gun. Maybe

[Tom M King]

Probably depending on how hard the wood is. The gun makes it very fast and easy.

[William Hodge]

The points for narrow rabbets are #1 diamond points.

https://www.toolboxsupply.com/products/fletcher-terry-08-111-wax-free-stacked-glazier-points-1-diamond-3-8

https://www.amazon.com/CRL-16-Universal-Diamond-Points/dp/B00QL5FJ0O

The point gun that CRL sells to dive these points costs $325., crazy expensive. You can get a good one by Fletcher or Red Devel on Ebay for a rational amount of money.

Justin Smith is selling the same thing for $100. less.
https://www.srshardware.com/product/point-driver/

For old work with narrow muntins, I need to set the points with a 1/4" nail set.

[Tom M King]

Those prices are nuts!

[Carroll Courtney]

Heck I just had keys made for 3 master locks, never gave price a thought for keys till they ring me up at register 😩51.00 with 5.00 discount. No more high rolling for me

[Carroll Courtney]

Look on eBay, I see two guns a PD 1 and PD 2 both at 70.00 plus shipping.
I have 11 sashes to do with 3 panes in each, it may be worth buying

[Carroll Courtney]

Look on eBay, I see two guns a PD 1 and PD 2 both at 70.00 plus shipping.
I have 11 sashes to do with 3 panes in each, it may be worth buying
But both are label as vintage

[Tom M King]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/375393173271?itmmeta=01HWBGKP61S8B36V1E1XA1WYJ8&hash=item57672d3f17:g:770AAOSwwmhmKDqO&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwMDi2iXcypvPpFjo9fX0uVcWkzAxl DNOXr4ZcRnXF%2F02mFRD1CDg2kMoBGTD9NxhVNtoT1bv1d%2F Rl2faKpX6%2FDUnjY3H2PPa8IFW126cBIOq6CST%2FLk61UP1h KdQaZPKUGQkLDUHiCqLOLyO22MDSTZFrxFkikJzvT4ntW12Ra0 oTdf13MFWf2XnlT5qM8kVBP5D2sSGe7DcPkuHkyd1CkpAdc1wh l9H%2FV6v%2FuYGK2bpBdC1ouwpH5GZnVAsLY5Cyg%3D%3D%7C tkp%3ABk9SR7TjzvDiYw

I can send you a few strips of points. I have much more than a lifetime supply.

[Carroll Courtney]

Tom I purchase that tool, thanks for providing that link and help

[Tom M King]

I'll send the points out tomorrow. I should still have your address in my PM's.

You pull that loop up, drop the points in, and put the spring loaded loop back on top of the points to feed the points. Shoot a couple as tests first. There is an adjustment on the spring tension that slams the hammer. The trigger just loads the hammer spring until it goes past a critical point releasing the spring to shoot the point.

Spacing of the opening is pretty critical. If the tool has been dropped or abused on the top of that loop, it can bend the thin metal under where the point comes out, allowing two at the time. If so, you might have to take that little metal piece off and adjust it by bending.

Hopefully it will work right to start with, but it's a pretty simple thing.

[Carroll Courtney]

Thanks so much Tom for those points and the help guiding me through this. Just looking at repairing sashes, to the untrained eye you don’t see all work that has to go into them. Even on a hobbyist level such as myself, labor or love for sure