Cheap Bandsaw for Resawing

[Jimmy Harris]

I'm a hobbyist on a limited budget looking for a bandsaw, primarily for resawing. Let's say, 12" of 8/4 hard maple cut down the middle would be the maximum I would ever ask of it. I'm under the impression that I'll need a steel framed bandsaw for that. What else do I need to know? Are guides just personal preference, or do certain ones actually work better for resawing? Will a 14" bandsaw work? Or would I be better suited with something capable of running a 1" blade? Does horsepower really matter? If so, how much is the minimum? What about cast iron wheels or trunnions? Are they a big deal or just nice to haves? The brands I'm looking at are Rikon, Jet, Laguna, and Grizzly. Are there any others worth considering? And while I only have 120v outlets, I can wire up a 220v no problem if needed. I'm okay with a saw that does what I need, but at a glacially slow pace. I have far more time than money, though I can afford whatever I need to afford, so I'm also okay with spending more if it means I don't have to upgrade a few years later. But I also don't want to pay more for a bigger, more powerful machine if it only makes resawing quicker or easier. Then again, I don't want to save money on something that won't saw a straight line either. I know I definitely don't need features like a brake or anything quick change or easy access (unless they don't cost extra), since they don't affect the quality of the cut. Again, I have time to waste. I just want to know the bare minimum I can get away with that will still yield good results.

I've been looking locally on the used market for something that might work, and I'm not liking what I'm finding. Usually, the people in my area are asking the same (and in a few instances, more) for a used, discontinued saw as what the updated model would cost new. And if I'm going to buy used, I kind of expect a sizable discount. Something like 20% off MSRP, at the bare minimum, and that's if it's still in good condition. And I'm just not seeing that out there. And since most of these saws were purchased before inflation went crazy and new bandsaw prices exploded, they're actually asking MORE the USED bandsaw than they originally paid for them, which is a turkey I just can't jive with on the grounds of principle alone.

So I'm probably looking at new, though I'll keep my eyes peeled on the used markets, just in case something pops up. Right now, I'm considering the Rikon 10-324. Would that resaw 12ish inches of 8/4 hard maple with a 1/2" blade and 1.5hp motor, even if glacially slow? If not, what's my limiting factor here? The motor, the blade width, something else? What's the minimum I can get away with? I might not ultimately buy the minimum, but I'd like to at least know where my baseline is so I can factor in the value/cost of upgrades from there.

Edited to add:. It's okay if 12" is a nightmare. 8" max would be a good target since 95% of what I do wouldn't exceed 8". I'd just like 12" to be technically possible.

And I work in a garage. So I'd have to back the car out, wheel out the bandsaw, plug it in, set it up, cut, dust it off, wax and oil it, and put it back. So it'll never not be a slow process to use it. And since I have two cars and all of my tools, gardening equipment, fishing and kayaking equipment in the garage, I have no space for a dust collector (or most power tools like even a table saw, but for a bandsaw, I'll make room). And since we have wild temperature and humidity swings here, everything rusts, despite my best attentions. So I'm wanting to avoid anything unnecessarily big and heavy, and something unnecessarily expensive, since it will eventually rust. I'm good about limiting things to a light surface rust, but I can't treat any rustable tool purchase like a forever tool. I might get 20 years out of it, but it won't last forever for me. It's just how things go. So a big, heavy, and expensive bandsaw will work against me in the long run. But one that's too small to even do the job is worse. Hence why I'm looking for "the minimum".

[Edward Weber]

Personally, I think 2hp is minimum for resawing 12" lumber.
It can be done with less but it would be very slow going, as you're aware.
A saw that handles a 3/4" blade would be "better" for resawing IMO. Most saws marketed as 14" will not adequately tension a 3/4" blade enough, though you can settle for 1/2".
Each small thing you compromise on makes the job just a little bit more difficult.

[lou Brava]

My take is get a bigger saw than 14" for 12" tall stock, also HP does matter I'd get at least a 3hp motor & if your spending the money a brake on a band saw is well worth it ! Band saws spin blades long after shut off which creates a very dangerous tool. If your wearing ear protection you won't hear the machine & won't even realize the blade is traveling plenty fast enough to some serious damage. You can't really upgrade a small band saw. For 12" tall stock I'd go with one these, https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-17-2-hp-extreme-series-bandsaw-w-cast-iron-trunnion-foot-brake/g0513x2bf
I have a 14" Laguna SUV which is there heavy duty 14" 3hp saw that will take up to a 1" blade. I run a 3/4 Resaw King on it. I can resaw up to 10" stock very accurately on it but at 12" tall I'm not sure how it would do. Maybe others can chime in on resawing 12" stock on that Rikon.

[Jimmy Harris]

Thanks for the replies so far! And 12" may never actually happen. I almost never come across hardwood stock wider than 10" in real life. 4-8" would be the majority of what I do. I'm just throwing 12" out there as an upper limit, just in case I run into the need one day. I resaw by hand now and have never run into a situation where my 26" rip saw couldn't handle. I think the widest I've ever done is 11.25" of pine (2x12) and probably 9.75" of yellowheart.

I feel like a brake would make the saw more dangerous, if anything, in my situation. If I learned to rely on it always being stopped, and put my faith in that, then that sets up the opportunity for something bad to happen the one time it's not. Besides, I always assume a saw blade is running until I've verified it's not. Maybe if I had kids or other people running around my tools it would be worth it for them. But since I'll be the only one around, it's not something I want.

[John TenEyck]

You've asked for a saw that doesn't exist, on the one hand the bare minimum, on the other something that you won't feel you need to upgrade from later. But OK, here's your bare minimum, from which you will want to upgrade unless you really like slow. A 14" cast iron Delta with riser block with a 1.5 hp motor will resaw almost 12". I have one, and with a 1/2" x 3 tpi blade it will do it, very slowly, and with very careful setup. I cut a lot of 7 - 10" wide veneer with mine before I got tired of measuring time with a calendar and bought a saw actually designed for the task. So, yes, it will work. Will you be happy with it? Unlikely if you want to resaw very often. 6" stock of course is easier, but it's still slow and still requires careful setup. Why? Because those cast iron saws cannot put much tension on the blade so if it's not set up perfectly, or the blade gets a little dull on one side, it will drift or belly and ruin your workpiece.

Now for something that will do the job. For resawing you want 1 hp for about every 3 - 4" of thickness, depending upon the wood, so if you want to resaw 12" you need about 3- 4 hp. I would not want less than 3. After that, it doesn't much matter which saw you get or what the features are. As long as it can tension a 3/4" blade to at least 20 ksi, it will do the job. Guides are almost of no consequence for resawing if you can put enough tension on the blade. Seriously. If the saw is set up to cut in a straight line, the side guides aren't doing much of anything. And for resawing there's no need to spend money on fancy guides. Or a fancy fence either. I use a homemade tall fence for resawing and slicing veneer that cost almost nothing to make and works better than any factory fence.

Manual brakes do not complicate things, and they only fail if you forget to use them. They are worth their weight in gold IMO if you buy a saw with heavy wheels. Mine will spin for what seems like a minute if I don't use the brake. Electronic brakes, yes, I agree, I wouldn't spend money on one.

John

[Alex Zeller]

I once thought like you and picked up a cheap 14" cast iron BS and put a riser block on it so I could cut blanks for turning bowls. It was slow and sort of worked. I thought "I have plenty of time" but what I didn't think about was how long I would have to hold the wood for while cutting it. The blanks usually were around 8" thick green wood. Making them round meant cutting both with the grain and cross cutting. At times I would get tired and need to take a break in the middle of a cut. A bandsaw doesn't like it when you try to back a piece of wood out of it.

I decided to upgrade to a 19" Grizzly with a 3hp motor and what a difference. I wish I had skipped the first saw and all the time I spent struggling. Cutting bowl blanks is so easy. I actually enjoy doing it. I can easily tension a 1" blade (which works so much better for resawing than the 1/2" I was previously using) and I have yet to bog the saw down. That doesn't mean I can push 12" of hard maple through it as fast as possible but faster than I can accurately cut. Of course the price difference a few years ago wasn't what it is now. I think it was just well under a grand between the saw I bought and a 14" steel frame saw. What I ended up with is 3hp, a heavier saw, a larger table, and a beefier trunnion. Saving a few bucks rarely pays off. But I do understand that everyone has a budget and not all budgets are equal.

[Jimmy Harris]

You've asked for a saw that doesn't exist, on the one hand the bare minimum, on the other something that you won't feel you need to upgrade from later. But OK, here's your bare minimum, from which you will want to upgrade unless you really like slow. A 14" cast iron Delta with riser block with a 1.5 hp motor will resaw almost 12". I have one, and with a 1/2" x 3 tpi blade it will do it, very slowly, and with very careful setup. I cut a lot of 7 - 10" wide veneer with mine before I got tired of measuring time with a calendar and bought a saw actually designed for the task. So, yes, it will work. Will you be happy with it? Unlikely if you want to resaw very often. 6" stock of course is easier, but it's still slow and still requires careful setup. Why? Because those cast iron saws cannot put much tension on the blade so if it's not set up perfectly, or the blade gets a little dull on one side, it will drift or belly and ruin your workpiece.

Now for something that will do the job. For resawing you want 1 hp for about every 3 - 4" of thickness, depending upon the wood, so if you want to resaw 12" you need about 3- 4 hp. I would not want less than 3. After that, it doesn't much matter which saw you get or what the features are. As long as it can tension a 3/4" blade to at least 20 ksi, it will do the job. Guides are almost of no consequence for resawing if you can put enough tension on the blade. Seriously. If the saw is set up to cut in a straight line, the side guides aren't doing much of anything. And for resawing there's no need to spend money on fancy guides. Or a fancy fence either. I use a homemade tall fence for resawing and slicing veneer that cost almost nothing to make and works better than any factory fence.

Manual brakes do not complicate things, and they only fail if you forget to use them. They are worth their weight in gold IMO if you buy a saw with heavy wheels. Mine will spin for what seems like a minute if I don't use the brake. Electronic brakes, yes, I agree, I wouldn't spend money on one.

John

This is good information and exactly the kind of stuff I was looking for!

[Jimmy Harris]

I'm more patient than most. And since I currently resaw by hand, holding a board for an hour isn't a problem. So long as it's faster than resawing by hand, I'm golden! Because I know it's a whole lot less work!

But yeah, I'm not looking at cast iron bandsaws. But I'm also not wanting to jump into a dream saw, just because. I'm okay with compromise.

[Tom Trees]

I suggest you might consider looking at the used three phase market, as often used is about half new, and three phase, half that again, in perfect nick, and a rough one will be far cheaper.
Here's an example of what I'm talking about, a complete 3 phase Italian machine often with a 3 horsepower motor, which if one can see 220/240v on the motor nameplate,
then it will be a dual voltage motor, which is likely the case for "modern" Italian saws with modern motors, i.e welded steel chassis machines.


.518860
https://i.postimg.cc/9MSm1L17/Screenshot-2023-12-21-SCM-Mini-Max-S600-P-Bandsaw-3-Phrase-e-Bay.png

You should be able to look up the HP of such a saw if you researched, as some like Felder, who branded ACM's saws, on the seemingly bygone newer line of Italian saws (the grey and not green paint scheme) before stopping branding "smaller" saws that is... or likewise the Italian Laguna line, with same ACM chassis,
often have more HP, as might? be the case possibly with the older branded line of Minimax's who used to be made by Centauro, the CO series above that is...
should you think the standard 3HP on most 600mm sized wheeled saws enough, then something to be considerate of with a 220v supply...
No doubt folks will mention you need to think of extraction also, so no escaping a proper job of the leccy anyway.



Below is the best info I believe you might read, for one who's in such a predicament of a newly acquired 3 phase bandsaw for cheap,
it breaks down your options, and would guide you through the basics of VFD's, which for such a machine is simple job,
and would provide easily adjustable soft smooth starting, whilst also reasonable breaking w/cheap VFD, or better breaking w/expensive VFD.
If you go big, then IMO the in-built braking is enough, some smaller 400 or 440mm sized wheeled saw users with small tables might want fancier.
The only differences are your parameters (motor commands relating to speed) will be for 60Hz rather than 50Hz, which is mentioned within,
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXxPUa4dTeCREIph-c0I4X8fdzdtS/view

I could post a pic of a smaller machine, but it's seemingly often the case of the 24"/600mm saws being cheaper than say a 500mm wheeled machine,
or a long wait otherwise...
Ah sher why not, here's something very suggestible, a particular gen Centauro CO 500 what's fully adjustable with foot mounted motor.
(such motor design mounting not often seen)
All that's missing is the mitre slot, and possibly a tiny bit of resaw height compared to some.
518861
https://i.postimg.cc/5N8cQCN4/Screenshot-2023-12-10-Lot.png

All the best
Tom

[Jimmy Harris]

I'd be okay with a VFD, but I've never seen a 3 phase for sale. I don't think they pop up around here, since this isn't an area rich in woodworking history (we don't have a lot of trees and the trees we do have are small). But 24" would be too big and heavy to move around on a daily basis. 350lbs. would be about my upper limit.

[Tom Trees]

An ACM SNAC 440 or re-badged ala Laguna/Felder/Griggio/Bridgewood 440 mm wheeled saw would be my suggestion so.
518862
https://i.postimg.cc/nLzzYJzh/Screenshot-2022-10-13-Griggio-Band-Saw-240-Volt-Good-working-condition-e-Bay.png

Might look more appealing with a bit of spit and polish!
518863
https://i.postimg.cc/0NM61vqH/Screenshot-2022-10-13-ACM-BS-440-Vertical-Band-Saw-vat-20-is-included-in-the-price-e-Bay.png

A compact wee saw really
518864
https://i.postimg.cc/jdB0kYZj/acm-snac.jpg

Or...an MM16.
That'd be my 2cents for what it's worth.

Good luck hunting.:)
Tom

[Bill Dufour]

What about the Hitachi with a 5hp motor swapped in?
Bill D

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Large wheel size is largely beneficial. I think it is more important to have large wheels than large H.P. (although you really need both). Re-saw blades on small wheels work harden quickly and put a lot of stress on the tracking and tensioning.

[Larry Edgerton]

What about the Hitachi with a 5hp motor swapped in?
Bill D

Excellent saw. Actually the motor that came on them is NOT weak, It just makes a a god-awful racket that grates at your very soul. Sold mine, miss it. I sold it when I bought an Oliver 36, and I could never get the Oliver to saw as good as the hitachi.

[Tom M King]

I have a 24" bandsaw that I keep a 1" blade on, but my most used bandsaw is a 65 pound 10" that keeps a 1/4" blade on it. If you're going to cut a lot of that 8/4 Maple, get a big one. If not much, pay someone else to do that and get a small one. It all depends on what you're going to do and how much room and money you have to put in it.

[Jimmy Harris]

What about the Hitachi with a 5hp motor swapped in?
Bill D
That's actually one of the few used bandsaws I've seen come up that weren't ridiculously priced! I think it was $800. I passed on it because of the small motor and the complaints of the noise in the reviews I was finding. Everyone seemed to own one for a short time, and then sell it, so I let it slip. It felt like a mistake at the time, but it was in kind of in rough shape and was afraid it would need lots of work and maybe parts I couldn't find.

[Mark Gibney]

Jimmy, where are you located?
Maybe you said but I didn't see it. Thanks.

[Jimmy Harris]

Jimmy, where are you located?
Maybe you said but I didn't see it. Thanks.
Oklahoma City-ish.

I'd really like to avoid shipping. Especially for a used machine. Not just to avoid the cost, but also because I have had such terrible luck with things getting lost or damaged when shipped these last few years. Plus, they never deliver on the day they say they will anymore, so if I have to sign for it or be there to receive it, I could wind up missing several days of work, just sitting at home waiting on nothing. And my wife would not be happy with me burning what few vacation days I get for that. And nor would I. The quality and reliability of shipping services has really nosedived since the pandemic.

So my options would be used locally for pick up, Rockler, or Woodcraft. I could also make the drive out to the Grizzly warehouse in Springfield, MO. That's about 4 a hour drive, which is right about the maximum distance I would be willing to travel.

[Curt Harms]

I have a Rikon 10-325 14" steel framed saw. I've resawed maybe 7" - 8" with it. It'll do it but slowly. Another reason to have 12" resaw is to cut things like boxes. You might only but cutting 1 1/2" of wood but you need 12"(or more) between the guides to do it. One thing about the Rikon at least, I doubt it's practical to retrofit a much larger motor IMO, it comes with 1 3/4 h.p. motor. People refit cast iron Delta saws with larger motors to improve resawing experience. Not Rikon (and I suspect other smaller steel frame saws). The driven pulley is integral to the lower wheel and it's a pretty small poly groove belt, maybe 5/16" wide or so.

[Jimmy Harris]

I have a Rikon 10-325 14" steel framed saw. I've resawed maybe 7" - 8" with it. It'll do it but slowly. Another reason to have 12" resaw is to cut things like boxes. You might only but cutting 1 1/2" of wood but you need 12"(or more) between the guides to do it. One thing about the Rikon at least, I doubt it's practical to retrofit a much larger motor IMO, it comes with 1 3/4 h.p. motor. People refit cast iron Delta saws with larger motors to improve resawing experience. Not Rikon (and I suspect other smaller steel frame saws). The driven pulley is integral to the lower wheel and it's a pretty small poly groove belt, maybe 5/16" wide or so.

That's good info. Thanks for posting!

[Curt Harms]

So my options would be used locally for pick up, Rockler, or Woodcraft. I could also make the drive out to the Grizzly warehouse in Springfield, MO. That's about 4 a hour drive, which is right about the maximum distance I would be willing to travel.

That's a hike but you could see your options as far as Grizzly. Plus I imagine it's an adult toy land:). Grizzly had a store near Williamsport PA. which was about 3 hours away. It's closed, probably too far away from major population centers. They had an annual scratch & dent sale. I miss it, got a metal cutting bandsaw for $80 among other toys.

[Jimmy Harris]

What about a Laguna LT16 SEC (Meber)? I found one in good shape with lots of add-ons. I've heard both good and bad things about the Meber variant. Vibration problems, mainly. But supposedly it can go up to a 1" blade and has a 2.5hp motor.

Another option would be a Grizzly G0513. 2HP and 17". Probably not as nice, but cheaper (barely) and new.

I found that Hitachi CB75F again. Passing on it was probably a good idea. It's in really rough shape, doesn't even have a fence, and I don't know how easy it would be to find parts. And it looks like it needs a LOT of work. Plus, everyone says to replace the motor, and that would jack the price up beyond the others. And, while I don't plan on cutting a lot of curves, it would be nice to have the option to switch out a blade and do that.

[John TenEyck]

Exactly. The Hitachi is a one trick pony. It's for folks who already have a saw, one that either is not well suited for resawing, or want to have an additional dedicated resaw machine. From what you said, you need a more versatile saw.

I don't know much about Meber other than they make/made some very good metal cutting saws. But I will say that if you can find a good used saw you can save substantially over new. Do not concern yourself if the asking price is more than it was new, because you can't buy that saw for the price it was new anymore. You either buy a used saw, or you buy a new one. You have to look at the cost of the used saw with respect to what that saw, or a similar one, costs new now. If you can save 50%, that's a good deal if it's in good shape. Once it gets to 70% of new, it better look and perform like new, and maybe have some accessories with it, to justify the price. Tough sell to me but location probably plays a role.

John

[Tom Trees]

That particular Meber has no hub for wheel adjustment at the back, perhaps there might be adjustability there within the chassis. but I doubt it.

https://www.woodworker.de/forum/threads/maka-400-meber-type-prof-aus-1995.112617/
518920

[Edward Weber]

Another reason for height/resaw capacity, is when using sleds, jigs and so on.
My sled is 3/4" thick and there are times when I could certainly use that little bit extra.
So when I cut something like a burl or other work-piece that requires a sled, my height is down to 11 1/4".
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-17-2-hp-bandsaw-w-cast-iron-trunnion/g0513x2
518924
It all depends on how you see yourself using your saw.

[Sam Force]

I have the G0513ANV edition, it was for their 35th anniversary. As a hobbiest I am very pleased with it. I do have a 1 inch blade that I seldom use, I don't believe I can get enough tension on that blade. I have a 3/4 inch blade that I believe tensions as it should. I keep a 1/2 inch blade on it for general use and it does a good job. I have yet to spend the big buck for a high quality blade but the Timberwolf blades work well for what I need. I can cut 1/8 inch cuts and it does a decent job. Not perfect but a couple trips thru the drum sander and all is well. I would highly recommend this saw. I should mention the fence is not the best but adequate

[Richard Coers]

Cheap and resaw should not go in the same sentence. Resawing is the most difficult operation on a bandsaw and you need a good machine to do it.

[Alex Zeller]

Cheap and resaw should not go in the same sentence. Resawing is the most difficult operation on a bandsaw and you need a good machine to do it.

The world is full of woodworkers who realized their mistake of buying the wrong tool for the job because they wanted to save a buck when they buy one to replace it.

[John C Cox]

Cheap and resaw should not go in the same sentence. Resawing is the most difficult operation on a bandsaw and you need a good machine to do it.

^^^^^^ This ^^^^^

I've done more resawing than most, and cheap/low powered saws are a terrible choice for any sort of thickness for resawing. 12" of hard maple puts you out of any home owner tool and into big commercial/industrial saws.

If you're only occasionally doing resaw, consider joining a local woodworkers guild and using the big saw at the shop. It's a lot better deal than buying a giant 24" bandsaw, custom resaw bands, a sled setup, and paying for the upgrade electrical service to power it.

Never mind that precision resawing becomes considerably more expensive as thickness increases. Most any decent saw will rip 1/2" or 3/4". 4" takes a lot more careful setup. 8" is challenging, and you better leave plenty of stock for clean up unless you've got an A-1 perfect setup, band, and fence. 12" deep? Your best bet is sending it to a pro who resaws veneer slices and just pay the premium, or you'll end up with a big pile of wavy, tapered scrap and no wood to work with.

[Jimmy Harris]

^^^^^^ This ^^^^^

I've done more resawing than most, and cheap/low powered saws are a terrible choice for any sort of thickness for resawing. 12" of hard maple puts you out of any home owner tool and into big commercial/industrial saws.

If you're only occasionally doing resaw, consider joining a local woodworkers guild and using the big saw at the shop. It's a lot better deal than buying a giant 24" bandsaw, custom resaw bands, a sled setup, and paying for the upgrade electrical service to power it.

Never mind that precision resawing becomes considerably more expensive as thickness increases. Most any decent saw will rip 1/2" or 3/4". 4" takes a lot more careful setup. 8" is challenging, and you better leave plenty of stock for clean up unless you've got an A-1 perfect setup, band, and fence. 12" deep? Your best bet is sending it to a pro who resaws veneer slices and just pay the premium, or you'll end up with a big pile of wavy, tapered scrap and no wood to work with.

I'm okay with having to flatten the board after resawing. I do that now when I resaw by hand. Plus, any wood I buy has to be planned flat. I'm not part of a production shop and don't have schedules to worry about. In fact, the whole point of woodworking for me is to waste my time. It's a hobby. It keeps me from watching mindless television or yelling at my crazy uncles on social media.

Also, there are no woodworking guilds near me. There's no shop where you can go to rent or borrow equipment, outside of one on a military base that requires a military ID (which I don't have). And it would probably be really difficult to find a pro who would be willing to do something like that, as most woodworking near me are either cabinet shops that work primarily with plywood or general construction. And most don't like wasting time on small jobs.

We don't have furniture makers here, or like I said, a history of woodworking in this area. Oklahoma was Indian territory up until 1907, and by the time it became "settled", we had oil money and railroads, so stuff like that was always imported from the east. Plus our trees are really small and there aren't too many of them.

[James Jayko]

I'm sure this is common knowledge, but setup and a sharp resaw blade are essential. Especially when you're asking a lot out of a smaller saw.

I have the Laguna 14/12 and really like it. Its a 110V, 1 3/4hp saw that claims 13" resaw capacity. I would bet that with a great, very sharp blade you COULD do what you're asking, but it'll take a lot of patience. I've resawed plenty of ~6" stuff, but 13" would really be pushing it, even if they claim the capability. YMMV.

We have the Laguna 14BX (220V, 2 1/2hp) at a shared shop I go to and I like that one a lot...seems like a good balance of capability and value. I've resawn wider stuff on that, and it works fine as long as its setup well and you've got a new, appropriate resaw blade.

But resawing 12" stock is going to be frustrating with all but the biggest saws I think. I think the most realistic idea is the used 3hp with a VFD.

[John Kananis]

I have a 14bx with a 2.5hp motor and it's pretty awesome for what it is but I wouldn't want to have to resaw 12" stock (although I'd like to). The plan is to eventually get a much bigger saw and set it up in the back room for that sort of thing. Point is, you have to make some compromises. Consider what you'll "mostly" be doing with the saw, what your budget is, what level of personal time you're willing to invest for setup, new or old, etc. and make a purchase decision based on all that criteria. There's no 1 saw for everything.

[John C Bush]

Hi Jimmy,
I have a Griz 21" BS that I had primarily used for resawing and ended up adding a Griz 05132BF for non resawing things-mostly big bowl blank rounding-so I didn't have to remove and reset the bigger saw for resawing. The two hp with a basic 1/2" blade does a good job at the max 12" capacity cutting the rounds-oak, walnut, madrone, maple- has plenty of power and the electric brake is a great feature-I like it better than just a foot brake like on the 21"er. The old "buy it once--cry once" comes to mind with this decision. It can be a bad day if a resaw cut goes of course when you are trying to sqeeze as much usable wood that you just barely have enough of or you want to bookmatch, etc. I see they have a 14" with a 2hp motor than may work as well. No foot brake would be a deal braker(oops) for me--very comforting to see the blade stop moving ia a couple seconds when finishing a cut. Not sure of blade size limitation on the 14" but a wide CT type blade makes resawing much better. Good luck,

[Jimmy Harris]

I have a 14bx with a 2.5hp motor and it's pretty awesome for what it is but I wouldn't want to have to resaw 12" stock (although I'd like to). The plan is to eventually get a much bigger saw and set it up in the back room for that sort of thing. Point is, you have to make some compromises. Consider what you'll "mostly" be doing with the saw, what your budget is, what level of personal time you're willing to invest for setup, new or old, etc. and make a purchase decision based on all that criteria. There's no 1 saw for everything.

That's my thinking. I'm okay with the idea of taking an excruciatingly long time resawing a 12" board, as I won't do it much (if ever). Two hours of resawing one board at the bandsaw beats two hours of resawing by hand, any day. But I want the option to do a board that big if the need ever arises, even if it's a slog. And since space and mobility are more important than time, I don't want a big, industrial saw. A saw I can't store or move is infinitely worse than a saw that is frustrating to use.

Basically I've got a square, round and triangular hole to file, and I can only have one block to fill all three. I know one block is never going to perfectly fit any hole if it can squeeze into all three. I have realistic expectations, despite what some people seem to think. There will be massive gaps. There will be problems. I know that. But there is also a solution somewhere that provides the best compromise. And that's what I'm looking for.

[John Kananis]

I feel and understand your pain. I've never had enough space in any of the shops I've had, no matter the size. It's maddening lol... and partly why I settled on the laguna 14bx. Imho, best of all worlds with some compromises on larger things (both material and blades). Lots of power for 14" saw, lots.


That's my thinking. I'm okay with the idea of taking an excruciatingly long time resawing a 12" board, as I won't do it much (if ever). Two hours of resawing one board at the bandsaw beats two hours of resawing by hand, any day. But I want the option to do a board that big if the need ever arises, even if it's a slog. And since space and mobility are more important than time, I don't want a big, industrial saw. A saw I can't store or move is infinitely worse than a saw that is frustrating to use.

Basically I've got a square, round and triangular hole to file, and I can only have one block to fill all three. I know one block is never going to perfectly fit any hole if it can squeeze into all three. I have realistic expectations, despite what some people seem to think. There will be massive gaps. There will be problems. I know that. But there is also a solution somewhere that provides the best compromise. And that's what I'm looking for.

Edit: Rikon, grizzly, Harvey and others offer similar tools, I'm just speaking from my personal preference and experience. And if you're willing to go one further, I wouldn't hesitate to buy the 18bx but then you're looking at a totally different tool with other competing tools offering similar for less or similar for more, etc.

[John C Cox]

I'm okay with having to flatten the board after resawing. I do that now when I resaw by hand. Plus, any wood I buy has to be planned flat. I'm not part of a production shop and don't have schedules to worry about. In fact, the whole point of woodworking for me is to waste my time. It's a hobby. It keeps me from watching mindless television or yelling at my crazy uncles on social media.

Also, there are no woodworking guilds near me. There's no shop where you can go to rent or borrow equipment, outside of one on a military base that requires a military ID (which I don't have). And it would probably be really difficult to find a pro who would be willing to do something like that, as most woodworking near me are either cabinet shops that work primarily with plywood or general construction. And most don't like wasting time on small jobs.

We don't have furniture makers here, or like I said, a history of woodworking in this area. Oklahoma was Indian territory up until 1907, and by the time it became "settled", we had oil money and railroads, so stuff like that was always imported from the east. Plus our trees are really small and there aren't too many of them.

I don't think you understand what we're saying. Even fairly expensive commercial bandsaws WON'T reliably resaw 12" deep stock without very careful and expensive setup, fresh special purpose bands, custom blade cooling, custom dust collection, etc.

It's not going to be a little slow, and a little wavy and require some surface prep. It will end up wrecking blades while making wood completely unusable. I did some 10" deep Sapele on a big 24" saw at a woodworker's guild shop near where I lived, and it was so tapered and wavy that I had to scrap it.

I have since bought my own Rikon 10-325 14 (tel:10-325 14)" saw, and mostly use it for resaw, but I found that it's really not good over 9" deep. It simply can't run a wide enough band to handle the chip removal. The next move up would be a much bigger Laguna Resaw King that's custom built for that... But that's a big cost jump.

[Edward Weber]

I don't think you understand what we're saying. Even fairly expensive commercial bandsaws WON'T reliably resaw 12" deep stock without very careful and expensive setup, fresh special purpose bands, custom blade cooling, custom dust collection, etc.

It's not going to be a little slow, and a little wavy and require some surface prep. It will end up wrecking blades while making wood completely unusable. I did some 10" deep Sapele on a big 24" saw at a woodworker's guild shop near where I lived, and it was so tapered and wavy that I had to scrap it.

I have since bought my own Rikon 10-325 14 (tel:10-325 14)" saw, and mostly use it for resaw, but I found that it's really not good over 9" deep. It simply can't run a wide enough band to handle the chip removal. The next move up would be a much bigger Laguna Resaw King that's custom built for that... But that's a big cost jump.

With all due respect, That's your experience, mine and others are not quite the same.
I have resawn Sapele, 9 1/2" with my Grizzly GO513 and did not have any of the issues you mention. Yes it's a little slow going but proper setup and patience are all that's needed.
I understand that you're sounding the caution warning for the OP but not everyone has had such bad experiences.

After I cut mine, it took the usual trip through the drum sander and all is well. A capable machine is only half the battle, method of work has a lot to do with it, even more so if the machine is under powered and/or undersized for the task.
518973518974

[Jimmy Harris]

I don't think you understand what we're saying. Even fairly expensive commercial bandsaws WON'T reliably resaw 12" deep stock without very careful and expensive setup, fresh special purpose bands, custom blade cooling, custom dust collection, etc.

It's not going to be a little slow, and a little wavy and require some surface prep. It will end up wrecking blades while making wood completely unusable. I did some 10" deep Sapele on a big 24" saw at a woodworker's guild shop near where I lived, and it was so tapered and wavy that I had to scrap it.

I have since bought my own Rikon 10-325 14 (tel:10-325 14)" saw, and mostly use it for resaw, but I found that it's really not good over 9" deep. It simply can't run a wide enough band to handle the chip removal. The next move up would be a much bigger Laguna Resaw King that's custom built for that... But that's a big cost jump.

With all due respect, I think I understand a lot better what you're saying than you understand what I'm saying. And that's perfectly understandable. At this point, I written a lot and there's a lot to read. And I'll freely admit that I'm not a very concise communicator. So I'm not making it easy. And I apologize for that.

But again, I'm not looking for a good solution to resawing 12" wide boards. I just want that possibility. Besides, I wouldn't expect to glean much from the capabilities of a guild-maintained machine. That's a bit like judging the quality of car based on a model you rented from Hertz.

[Jimmy Harris]

With all due respect, That's your experience, mine and others are not quite the same.
I have resawn Sapele, 9 1/2" with my Grizzly GO513 and did not have any of the issues you mention. Yes it's a little slow going but proper setup and patience are all that's needed.
I understand that you're sounding the caution warning for the OP but not everyone has had such bad experiences.

After I cut mine, it took the usual trip through the drum sander and all is well. A capable machine is only half the battle, method of work has a lot to do with it, even more so if the machine is under powered and/or undersized for the task.
518973518974

Thank you. This also helps out a lot.

I think I'm learning what I need to know. And I'm leaning towards a new G0513, depending on what I can find on the used market. I think it, or something like it, will be the best compromise.

[Edward Weber]

It's a good middle of the road saw, IMO
It's a step up from a cast iron 14" Asian import or Delta clone and not so expensive that it kills your budget.
IME, They claim to take a 1" blade but as someone earlier said, it won't tension it adequately. A 3/4" blade works well when needed, with proper tension.
Good luck in your search

[John TenEyck]

That's my thinking. I'm okay with the idea of taking an excruciatingly long time resawing a 12" board, as I won't do it much (if ever). Two hours of resawing one board at the bandsaw beats two hours of resawing by hand, any day. But I want the option to do a board that big if the need ever arises, even if it's a slog. And since space and mobility are more important than time, I don't want a big, industrial saw. A saw I can't store or move is infinitely worse than a saw that is frustrating to use.

Basically I've got a square, round and triangular hole to file, and I can only have one block to fill all three. I know one block is never going to perfectly fit any hole if it can squeeze into all three. I have realistic expectations, despite what some people seem to think. There will be massive gaps. There will be problems. I know that. But there is also a solution somewhere that provides the best compromise. And that's what I'm looking for.

2 hours to saw one board? You must have some big guns to use a handsaw for 2 hours. And you are indeed a patient man. But fortunately, you don't have to be that patient, because the good news is nearly any bandsaw that has 12" of resaw height can cut 12" maple faster than that. I think my 14" Delta can cut 10" maple, oak, etc. at around 0.25 ft/min with a 1/2" x 3 tpi blade. My big saw is 12 fpm, easily, for comparison. So, knowing your level of patience, just go buy the best used saw you can find that has 12" of resaw capacity. Anything from 1-1/2 hp on up will meet your stated needs. You won't need expensive carbide blades, either. A low cost 1/2" x 3 tpi will cut it just fine until it dulls.

John

[John TenEyck]

Same here. This is 7 or 8" white oak, but I cut 10" veneer with it, too. It takes careful setup, but it can be done, slowly.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPvqicN_kqBWEvFjUuRggP4Mb5SpnEgVOjstcM1SsjMwL h8ygQsr89Vax1SXcPfs7bMgRsbu5BQjArERqnEqczskUD6rEN7 CSQKcsqumKtTdgLfsf7W_nHZ6vGQfhIbt2_V1E5O2p_YW5722u QAw1XOUA=w1180-h885-s-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNI6G9bqjKd5fFXRVjMNmnYvXpByjSJwKQUwZdJlHcUNR vxqncqrlY3rPCAJ9ZMt3FnRgBNywVKdwmf2CDx-yBI7RPfZQMdpkRvbAUhlKNrnglmVVXZruzi3w3Z9Qo8onZzwyQ uz3Qp2HY8D6U1OuSADw=w1180-h885-s-no?authuser=1

[Jimmy Harris]

2 hours to saw one board? You must have some big guns to use a handsaw for 2 hours. And you are indeed a patient man. But fortunately, you don't have to be that patient, because the good news is nearly any bandsaw that has 12" of resaw height can cut 12" maple faster than that. I think my 14" Delta can cut 10" maple, oak, etc. at around 0.25 ft/min with a 1/2" x 3 tpi blade. My big saw is 12 fpm, easily, for comparison. So, knowing your level of patience, just go buy the best used saw you can find that has 12" of resaw capacity. Anything from 1-1/2 hp on up will meet your stated needs. You won't need expensive carbide blades, either. A low cost 1/2" x 3 tpi will cut it just fine until it dulls.

John
It's not as bad as it sounds. And no, I'm very skinny (except for my pot belly). You just take lots of little breaks to catch your breath and focus on keeping loose and taking big, easy strokes and use your whole body. It also helps with a D-8 with the thumb hole, so you can get two hands on it and split the load. You'll be sore when done, for sure. But I'd rather resaw for 2 hours than cut dovetails for two hours, with that short motion.

And I'm looking to start off with cheaper blades. I actually kind of like sharpening stuff, and I've seen some videos on bandsaw blade sharpening, and it looks easy enough. It's just a giant handsaw at its heart. So I'd like to try non-hardened teeth first and see how that goes. Then if that doesn't work, slowly progress through the more expensive blades until I find what I like and what works best. The way I see it, blades are consumables. So if I regret a bad purchase with one, it's not like I'm stuck with it for life. I was gonna buy a new blade one day anyway. So might as well find out what I'm upgrading from, instead of just what I'm upgrading to.

[Edward Weber]

And I'm looking to start off with cheaper blades. I actually kind of like sharpening stuff, and I've seen some videos on bandsaw blade sharpening, and it looks easy enough. It's just a giant handsaw at its heart. So I'd like to try non-hardened teeth first and see how that goes. Then if that doesn't work, slowly progress through the more expensive blades until I find what I like and what works best. The way I see it, blades are consumables. So if I regret a bad purchase with one, it's not like I'm stuck with it for life. I was gonna buy a new blade one day anyway. So might as well find out what I'm upgrading from, instead of just what I'm upgrading to.

When you know what saw/blade length you're getting, I would suggest starting with Supercut Blades. They are far less expensive than many of the names you hear people talk about on this and other forums.
IME their carbon steel blades as just as good as anyone else's for almost half the price.
https://supercutbandsaw.com/

Just a suggestion

[John Kananis]

As far as blades go, I've become quite partial to the Lennox bi-metal blades. They far outlast any carbon steel blade I've tried (I've tried most of them), are priced far below carbide and can be sharpened in the shop with a bench grinder.

Edit: as it's been said, a half inch 3tpi blade is your friend on smaller saws and a ton of quality work was done on smaller cast iron saws prior to steel frame gaining popularity.

[Mike Cutler]

Resawing takes a few things. Resawing 8-12" wide material takes a few more.
- Resawing is a power game. You need power in the form the motor itself, and the mass of the wheels to drive the blade through that material.
I - t takes a robust setup. an 8/4 Maple board, 8-12" wide, of any appreciable length, is going to have enough weight that cheaply made trunnions are going to stress and the table will wobble on it's own under load.
- It takes a quality blade. Unless you have the ability the sharpen a carbon steel blade, you need to consider a carbide tooth blade for longevity. In 8"-12" wide Maple, you will see the dulling effects very, very, quickly.
- It takes robust guides, and fence. There are a lot of forces at play here.
Re-sawing thin veneers, as the off cut is quite a bit different than going straight down the middle of a 2" thick board. The thickness of the veneer, generally thin, does not present anywhere near the friction and pressure on the blade as a book match cut. You also have to realize that the material may want to change state just past the blade and begins to pinch the blade.Or it may want to spreading push itself away from the fence.
You don't want to go slow re-sawing, stopping, and starting, to apply pressure, or you will end up with a board face that looks like a cartoon washboard, and now what ever money you saved is going to be spent prepping that surface, which will add even more time. You want to apply a steady even pressure to the board going through machine.In other words, as fast as you can go keeping the gullets clear and not driving the blade into the guides. Each machine and blade will be different. It's a feel thing.
I don't know where you live , but if it's in the US, there is nowhere that a machine cannot be kept rust free for life. It might take some work, and prep, but we have machinery in marine environments here in New England that are a 100 years old, and they're not inside climate controlled buildings. It can done. Don't let that stop you from investing in a machine.
What do I have to re-saw with?
I have a Rikon, 18", 340. It's a 2HP bandsaw that came out in the early 2000's. I thin I got it for $1K then. It has a 1" wide Lennox 2/3 varipitch TriMaster on it right now. This is a $175-$200 blade.
The fence is heavily modified and the guide bearings have all been upgraded. Mine is what I would term a "cheap" setup. It can easily do what you need a saw to do.
If you're worried about rush, paint it with some marine epoxy and spray under the table with LPS 6. Remove the bearings when not in use and take the pressure off the blade, and this saw, or one just like it, will last your needs.
As for dust collection, you're going to need some dust collection, or a very powerful fan to blow that table, bearings and guides down. Sometimes I setup in the garage and use both, as well as a respirator if I'm working with nasty woods. If they are not kept clear, you're fighting a losing battle with material and debris buildup. It's not going to work well at all.
If you consider $1200 cheap, than you should be able to find an 18" to 20" bandsaw used, in working order, easily enough. Spend another $50.00 in bearings, and invest in a quality blade and you're set.

Update.
Someone is selling my exact bandsaw in the classifieds for $500.00. It's going to be hard to get less expensive than that. ;)

[Alex Zeller]

I've also had really good luc with Lenox Bimetal blades. I've thought about getting a carbide resaw blade but I just don't do enough to justify the cost. At some point I will but there's other priorities that are higher up on the list. It seems like the carbon and "Swedish" steel blades dulled very quickly for me. A dull blade is going to make life a pain. The saw will not cut straight.

[Jimmy Harris]

Resawing takes a few things. Resawing 8-12" wide material takes a few more.
- Resawing is a power game. You need power in the form the motor itself, and the mass of the wheels to drive the blade through that material.
I - t takes a robust setup. an 8/4 Maple board, 8-12" wide, of any appreciable length, is going to have enough weight that cheaply made trunnions are going to stress and the table will wobble on it's own under load.
- It takes a quality blade. Unless you have the ability the sharpen a carbon steel blade, you need to consider a carbide tooth blade for longevity. In 8"-12" wide Maple, you will see the dulling effects very, very, quickly.
- It takes robust guides, and fence. There are a lot of forces at play here.
Re-sawing thin veneers, as the off cut is quite a bit different than going straight down the middle of a 2" thick board. The thickness of the veneer, generally thin, does not present anywhere near the friction and pressure on the blade as a book match cut. You also have to realize that the material may want to change state just past the blade and begins to pinch the blade.Or it may want to spreading push itself away from the fence.
You don't want to go slow re-sawing, stopping, and starting, to apply pressure, or you will end up with a board face that looks like a cartoon washboard, and now what ever money you saved is going to be spent prepping that surface, which will add even more time. You want to apply a steady even pressure to the board going through machine.In other words, as fast as you can go keeping the gullets clear and not driving the blade into the guides. Each machine and blade will be different. It's a feel thing.
I don't know where you live , but if it's in the US, there is nowhere that a machine cannot be kept rust free for life. It might take some work, and prep, but we have machinery in marine environments here in New England that are a 100 years old, and they're not inside climate controlled buildings. It can done. Don't let that stop you from investing in a machine.
What do I have to re-saw with?
I have a Rikon, 18", 340. It's a 2HP bandsaw that came out in the early 2000's. I thin I got it for $1K then. It has a 1" wide Lennox 2/3 varipitch TriMaster on it right now. This is a $175-$200 blade.
The fence is heavily modified and the guide bearings have all been upgraded. Mine is what I would term a "cheap" setup. It can easily do what you need a saw to do.
If you're worried about rush, paint it with some marine epoxy and spray under the table with LPS 6. Remove the bearings when not in use and take the pressure off the blade, and this saw, or one just like it, will last your needs.
As for dust collection, you're going to need some dust collection, or a very powerful fan to blow that table, bearings and guides down. Sometimes I setup in the garage and use both, as well as a respirator if I'm working with nasty woods. If they are not kept clear, you're fighting a losing battle with material and debris buildup. It's not going to work well at all.
If you consider $1200 cheap, than you should be able to find an 18" to 20" bandsaw used, in working order, easily enough. Spend another $50.00 in bearings, and invest in a quality blade and you're set.

Update.
Someone is selling my exact bandsaw in the classifieds for $500.00. It's going to be hard to get less expensive than that. ;)
I'm flexible on budget. It's gonna cost what it costs and I have a bit of money saved up. But I'm not rich, so I every dollar spent towards a bandsaw will mean a sacrifice from something else.

As for dust collection, if need be I can get a little motor and just hook it up straight to the bandsaw and my Dustright bag for my DW735. Something small and portable. I'll address that need as it arises. I just done have room for a permanent system.

As for rust, it's a concern, but I'm pretty good at staying on top of it. But no matter how hard I try, anything exposed gets a surface patina eventually. For example, I have some 304 stainless steel shelf brackets in my garage that I had to sand the rust spots off of a few months back. So I'm not worried about losing the bandsaw to rust, but I won't be able to keep anything in mint condition for resale later on. It's not just humidity, but wild temperature swings and saw dust migrating everywhere.

[John Kananis]

Jimmy, if your budget is flexible, spend once, cry once. The bandsaw is one of the last tools I would give up in my shop. The tablesaw would go way before I gave up my bs.


I'm flexible on budget. It's gonna cost what it costs and I have a bit of money saved up. But I'm not rich, so I every dollar spent towards a bandsaw will mean a sacrifice from something else.

As for dust collection, if need be I can get a little motor and just hook it up straight to the bandsaw and my Dustright bag for my DW735. Something small and portable. I'll address that need as it arises. I just done have room for a permanent system.

As for rust, it's a concern, but I'm pretty good at staying on top of it. But no matter how hard I try, anything exposed gets a surface patina eventually. For example, I have some 304 stainless steel shelf brackets in my garage that I had to sand the rust spots off of a few months back. So I'm not worried about losing the bandsaw to rust, but I won't be able to keep anything in mint condition for resale later on. It's not just humidity, but wild temperature swings and saw dust migrating everywhere.

[Steven Cooper2]

I didn't read everything, but i'll put in my $0.02...

I have a 14 inch grizzly with riser and a 21" that I'm rebuilding. The 14 does decently well with a good sharp blade and some magic feedrate. I've used it to break down hard maple logs up to ~10-12", so the full height with riser block. When the grain is straight and everything is good, it does fine.
Once there is some squirrlyness it gets a bit unpleasant. it will do it, but it is really touchy.

If you plan on doing only a little at the max capacity of the saw, I think it is OK. I'm going to move all my resawing to my 21" Grob once I'm done rebuilding it and keep the Grizzly around for finer cuts. it is nice to have one saw set up for resawing and another for detail work. I had a little 9" ryobi before the grizzly and I had both in my shop for a year or so before selling the ryobi. It was nice being able to have one ready to go for either task.

[John TenEyck]

I'm flexible on budget. It's gonna cost what it costs and I have a bit of money saved up. But I'm not rich, so I every dollar spent towards a bandsaw will mean a sacrifice from something else.

As for dust collection, if need be I can get a little motor and just hook it up straight to the bandsaw and my Dustright bag for my DW735. Something small and portable. I'll address that need as it arises. I just done have room for a permanent system.

As for rust, it's a concern, but I'm pretty good at staying on top of it. But no matter how hard I try, anything exposed gets a surface patina eventually. For example, I have some 304 stainless steel shelf brackets in my garage that I had to sand the rust spots off of a few months back. So I'm not worried about losing the bandsaw to rust, but I won't be able to keep anything in mint condition for resale later on. It's not just humidity, but wild temperature swings and saw dust migrating everywhere.

If you resaw much you'll find dust collection is a key issue. You can get by with a shopvac on a saw that can only cut a few inches/minute, but once you get to several ft/min that won't be able to keep up, and then the saw loads up with sawdust. Worse, sawdust will get between the blade and tires and that sometimes ends up rather badly.

John

[Randy Heinemann]

By now everyone has provided opinions and I'm not sure you're even reviewing responses anymore . . . I have a Rikon 14" 10-325 Deluxe (which is now a 10-326). I believe that its resaw capacity is 11" although I don't believe I've ever resawed anything more than about 9"; possibly 10". It does have a 1 1/2 HP motor. I have upgraded to Rikon's toolless guides (which I believe are standard on the 10-326 which is the newer version). I've never found a board I couldn't resaw on this bandsaw. While it is true that a saw with a bigger motor will do the job faster, I don't believe it will do the job any better. The reason is this.

For me, the main thing with a bandsaw is setup. The guides need to be set in the right position and as close as possible to but not touching the blade. Once I learned how to set up the blade and guides (tension, position of the blade on the wheels, position of the guides in relation to the blade, and squareness of the table) I have always gotten great results with a sharp blade. A sharp blade is the other important factor. If the blade has been on the saw for awhile and is dull or the teeth are even a tiny bit out of set, it just won't cut straight.

So, first of all, unless you are putting the saw to heavy duty use frequently and are planning to resaw 10" or 11" boards a lot, a 14" bandsaw should work well. It might mean that you are forced to do a slower steady feed rate, but it will do the job just as well as a bigger saw as long as the setup is done correctly.,

There are some good videos on YouTube. The best one I've ever seen (and really saw it live at a Woodoworking Show) is by Alex Snodgrass. If you follow his steps, you will get good results. If you don't set up the saw correctly the results won't be satisfactory no matter what size or HP the bandsaw. While it might be somewhat easier and faster to resaw with an 18" saw compared to a 14" saw, the results will be the same.

Also, I wouldn't go "cheap". Most of the manufacturers of bandsaws have good quality products, including Rikon, Laguna, Grizzly, maybe General, Powermatic, Jet, and others. Buying used is a great idea as long as the saw doesn't require a lot of work to get it perform properly. Plus, these days, used tools are being sold for rather high prices and it would be tough for a woodworker like me, even though I've been at it for over 40 years, to be sure a used saw doesn't have some problem requiring additional money to fix.

[John TenEyck]

From my observations side guides are of almost no importance on a bandsaw that can adequately tension a wider blade (1" or more. Maybe 3/4", too, but I've never used one.) that is set up to cut straight. On saws that can only tension a 1/2" blade, but still put adequate tension on it, then guides start to become important. With saws that can't apply enough tension, like my 14" Delta, guides indeed are critical to getting straight cuts.

What's adequate tension. 20 ksi, minimum, and 25 ksi is better. My Delta can barely muster 12 ksi on a 1/2" blade. My larger Grizzly has no trouble applying 25 ksi on a 1" blade.

Saws that are robust enough to put 25 ksi on a 1" blade make resawing so much easier, almost trivial.

John

[Jimmy Harris]

I'm not seeing a whole lot on the used market. The Laguna LT16 SEC (Meber) and a Mini Max E16 (Centauro) have popped up. Both look to be in really good condition and have some accessories (the Laguna has a power feeder). Both have 2.5 hp motors. But, a new Grizzly G0513 (currently on sale) is the same price. Ony 2hp, but one more inch (16 vs. 17) and with a warranty. Which makes the used ones kind of hard to swallow. Plus, I'm not reading a lot of stellar reviews on either the Laguana or Mini Max. Or really any information at all. They seem to be models everyone avoided. Beyond those, I see a ton of used bandsaws that are being sold for the same price as new, which makes zero sense to me.

I've also found a couple of large, 3 phase bandsaws. But there's no way I could fit one in my garage, let alone get it on or off a trailer. And they all look like they need a good bit of work and aren't really any cheaper. I've found a handful of bandsaws that have everything I need at 50% off new prices or less... but are heavily rusted from being stored outside in the elements for possibly years. Which means after all of the work restoring them, it would probably be cheaper to buy new. And soooo many meat bandsaws. Which makes sense, I guess. We have more cows than trees here.

That Grizzly goes off sale in a few days, but I think I might pass and just keep looking. I'm not in a huge rush. I've gotten by this long without one. I'm sure there will be more sales in the not-too-distant future. And I'm betting someone who's a bit more reasonable in their pricing will be selling a nice bandsaw sooner or later. One of the tricks that I've learned to get the best deal when buying used is to have both lots of cash and time on your hands.

[Warren Lake]

Always saw bandsaws mostly italian at auctions for 750.00 to maybe 1,200.00. they were working in production at the time and most needed nothing. All were three phase.

[Edward Weber]

From my observations side guides are of almost no importance on a bandsaw that can adequately tension a wider blade (1" or more. Maybe 3/4", too, but I've never used one.) that is set up to cut straight. On saws that can only tension a 1/2" blade, but still put adequate tension on it, then guides start to become important. With saws that can't apply enough tension, like my 14" Delta, guides indeed are critical to getting straight cuts.

What's adequate tension. 20 ksi, minimum, and 25 ksi is better. My Delta can barely muster 12 ksi on a 1/2" blade. My larger Grizzly has no trouble applying 25 ksi on a 1" blade.

Saws that are robust enough to put 25 ksi on a 1" blade make resawing so much easier, almost trivial.

John

I'm once again in the same camp.
My guides will probably never wear out because they hardly ever turn.
If I see one of the bearings start to move, I know I'm putting too much feed pressure on the stock or the blade is starting to wear.

IMO. If you understand them, bandsaws are an easy machine to set up and run straight, true and parallel. I never found it anywhere near as daunting as many here seem to portray.

[Warren Lake]

set up the rear wheel should not be turning, when cutting and putting pressure on it it should be turning.

[Tom Trees]

Good call to wait it out and look for a more modern design with more adjustability than the very old Meber, and one with cast iron wheels, IMO.
Worth noting regarding the "lesser" SNA/Star line, (not the same as posted earlier) are more common, if you can find a 500mm sized saw,
the wheels will likely be the disc type rather than spoked, but the same as earlier,
I believe you may have to look into motor size as mentioned, if wanting more than 2hp.

Should either of these frequently used in business Italian machines pop up, the chances of the original vulcanized real rubber still remaining,
will likely be higher than with other modern saws...
(others who use something in between rubber and urethane, that is)
and as such, will likely have damage, hence the bargain element, which simply need a little dressing up again.
I take it the SNAC 540 saws are getting a bit large, but I wouldn't dismiss those either TBH.
Someone posted a real old previous model (1983 vintage) of this last week, though it had a non adjustable lower wheel like the Meber,
which I hadn't seen before, I'd avoid those.

If not wanting such a hassle with working on a machine, then I suggest finding one running with a wide(ish) blade,
And as with any used saw, a good hands on feel and listen for noise without a blade installed for sounds of a worn bearing journal, which might give a clunk noise.
That's the biggest issue one might have to face damage wise, and apart from that worth working on, specifically for someone who wants a bargain,
as chances are from saws made by any manufacturer, the ones getting sold won't be as nice as the ones which don't.
Nothing guaranteed with new either, as nobody's making anything like the specific era C0500 I posted earlier, though there are foolproof design Meber saws out there too
which feature both lower wheel and motor adjustability, though not looked to be sure such a 500mm wheeled Meber exists.
Edit, I see they do exist, but might be a bit heavier than an equivalent sized ACM saw.
519146
https://i.postimg.cc/cHHwP0Yz/Meber-SR500.jpg



All the best
Tom

[Warren Lake]

Tom so what type of tires are on my 1962 Wadkin DR? Still in the graveyard, pretty sure its original tires.

[Tom Trees]

Not sure if manufacturers used anything else but real rubber on saws older than whenever, not a clue, but I'm sure it would be documented on OWWM
if not here.
I only have interest in capable saws in which I can move really...well, I might be partial to having interest in some of the larger Italian saws with foolproof designs also,
as most make/made a good range of sizes.
and of the lighter weight Wadkin's, two flavours of 500mm wheels look moveable and very decent to me, though largely the same design as we see today compared.
Certainly not something to dismiss IMO.
519144
https://i.postimg.cc/FsDmHvJp/86.jpg
Tom

[Tom Trees]

Here's some examples of the ACM star/SNA 500, badged by Felder, who also sold a FB440 at one time,
(I think Felder might've dropped the smaller lines of Italian saws recently)
These have solid wheels compared to the x40 SNAC series.
(though Felder's x40's, or possibly Laguna unsure if they also have also badged x40 series, from say a decade ago...not looked, but it might be a different story than today)
That said, I'm unsure if you can get the x40 series with solid disc type wheels optional or only now, as the SNA/Star line was dropped, (parts still available)
whether that's standard or no more, I haven't looked that up, Laguna's new ones are solid from what I've seen.

This 500mm wheeled machine is about 200kg, so with some decent casters and dependent on your floor, might be very reasonable, or slightly an annoyance,
but then again it could be said, perhaps with any saw, it might have you considering logistics, like a bit of a makeover to the shed!.:D

Here's something what might just be about bargain aged, (with original rubber still remaining)
The older FB 500.
519298
https://i.postimg.cc/cCfcJ38r/Older-felder-fb500-2.jpg

I think the mitre slot is standard on these, and Laguna saws are specified with deeper slots
519299
https://i.postimg.cc/jdTXxdmV/Older-fb500-standard-table.jpg

And perhaps another reason such a saw might be had for a lesser sum than other saws, the motor might be a tad underpowered at 2hp
519300
https://i.postimg.cc/QtrBQVph/Older-fb500-sticker.jpg

That is... for someone who's not looking for the newer version
519301
https://i.postimg.cc/kXhBjTxj/Newer-fb500.jpg

With 4hp motor, that is.
519302
https://i.postimg.cc/KYtj8FCV/Newer-fb500-label.jpg

I'll leave out the Laguna LT saws, as my browser doesn't work for most USA websites, and I likely wouldn't be able find out motor details through the years.
Not to say I've documented things fully with Felder's line, things could be differing in the USA, just making note of what I guess is likely the case there.

Though posting the snazzier of the two might indeed inspire, should they stumble across something fairly similar in need of a paint job,
and don't wish to buy two colours. ;)

Good luck on the hunt!
Tom

[Jimmy Harris]

I found a 17" Grizzly G0513ANV for a great price and picked it up yesterday (8 hours of driving a U-Haul trailer on back roads was no fun). The trunnion was broken, one of the thrust bearings was shot, and the bottom tire was torn up, but for the price he wanted, I can replace all of that and still come out way ahead! I am shocked at how cheap Grizzly's parts are. Most of the time I've bought parts from manufacturers, they want like $30 plus shipping for a single screw or whatever. Or they make you buy a giant assembly when all you need is a felt washer.

So I'm very satisfied with how it all turned out. Now I just have to get it all wired up and repaired and I can get to resawing!

[Rod Sheridan]

Tom, Felder saws such as the FB540 have flat cast wheels with no shoulders, if the rubber needs replacement you send the wheel out to a company that can mould a tire on and grind it to a radius.

The mitre slot is metric, not imperial

Regards, Rod

[Edward Weber]

Sounds great, hope it works out for you

[Tom Trees]

I wasn't sure TBH if it were an optional thing or not, and whether that might be related to the older models, though worth noting the FB 640 on the website
has spoked wheels, which up until recently has been the standard thing on the SNAC/x40 lines.
Laguna have seemingly always speced solid wheels, as with SCM now, so interesting to see Felder opt for spoked seeing as they weren't the most standard option
of saw from Novellara.

There is a generous amount of rubber on these, so a little dressing is likely all needed, and seemingly not very many folks providing services of such
which is my point.


Sorry for the confusion, I mean't standard as per the base model regarding the mitre slot, and not what Laguna and SCM spec from ACM.

I see Jimmy has got himself a saw in the meantime, good luck with it!
Regards
Tom

[Sam Force]

I think you will like your "new" saw. I do enjoy mine

[Jimmy Harris]

I think you will like your "new" saw. I do enjoy mine
I think I will too.

It's gonna take a while to get it set up. It's filthy. So I've got to do a deep cleaning. And there's some repairs I need to do. Plus, I need to run wires for the power and that requires going into the attic. And I've got so much junk in there above the garage that it's going to be a pain to do that by myself. But it's all stuff I can handle.

The previous owner said he bought it several years ago, put about 40 hours on it, and then got out of woodworking. So he was likely unaware of how much prices had increased recently, which is why I got such a good deal. He was only asking $750 for it. It was only listed for a few hours when I contacted him, and I was the second buyer. The first never showed up, thankfully. And the previous owner obviously didn't know what he was doing it with, hence why it had so many broken and worn-out parts after only 40 hours of use. The lower thrust bearing had a groove in it because he was using that to keep the blade from wandering on the tires, and burying the blade into it. The bottom tire was torn up from trying to feed wood too fast and locking the blade up. And the trunnion was broken from it being moved on its spine with the table still attached (the paint is heavily scratched on the back as well). But less than $100 in parts ought to get it back to good as new. And I was especially pleased to find out Grizzly still has touch up paint for it!

Now I just need to figure out dust collection. I don't have room or budget for a fancy, permanent DC setup. I'm gonna try it with my shop vac first and see how it goes. If nothing else, that'll give me an idea of what I need.

But it's just about the perfect size. Any bigger, and it wouldn't fit in my garage.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I'm glad you found a good deal. It sounds like you've got a lot of work to do up front, but I'm sure it will pay off. I had looked at that model of saw before I ended up buying a much older one, and it seemed like a nice machine. If you need a cheap dust collector you might be able to find about a 1 hp portable one that could be parked near the saw. They can often be had used for $100 or sometimes less, at least around here.

[John Kananis]

Jimmy, congrats on your diamond in the rough... skip the shop vac idea though. Bandsaws are one of those machines that frustrate even dc users (sometimes) with the about of dust created, especially when resawing.