Cross Cut Sled

[Jerry Bruette]

How precise do you fellas get with your cross cut sleds?

I'm getting ready to build a cabinet for the lady of the house and thought I'd check my sled. Well I fooled around for a while and I have .009 difference from one end to the other over 16 1/2 inches. If I'm doing my math right that's .0005 per inch. Close enough or keep going?

[Howard Rosenberg]

It's very simple to get your sled's fence even more precise.

Look for Scott Walsh's videos on youtube. Find the one where he demonstrates the 5-cut method. You'll be glad you did - his methods are both fast and relatively easy.

For your own reference, I posted my TS sled pics on Sawmill Creek around Q3 2023 - I used a 1/4-20 bolt for a micro-adjust screw behind the fence.

Keep us posted.

[Jerry Bruette]

It's very simple to get your sled's fence even more precise.

Look for Scott Walsh's videos on youtube. Find the one where he demonstrates the 5-cut method. You'll be glad you did - his methods are both fast and relatively easy.

For your own reference, I posted my TS sled pics on Sawmill Creek around Q3 2023 - I used a 1/4-20 bolt for a micro-adjust screw behind the fence.

Keep us posted.
I've been using the 5 cut method from William Ng's website. Started with about .033. Was getting distracted with an empty belly that knew it was later than I did. I'll go back at it tomorrow.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I prefer the two cut method. Remember it's woodworking, not machinest work.

[Mike Wilkins]

Check out the new jig from KatzMoses tools. The patent-pending jig utilizes the kerf from the saw blade to precisely set the rear fence 90 degrees to the blade. Neat idea.
I may make a sled for finger joints but not cross cutting-I am fortunate enough to also have a sliding table saw.

[Michael Burnside]

I have a few squares I build every piece of furniture with. They’re square. So that’s how I build my sleds and other jigs.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I used the William Ng 5 cut method and am happy with results. Use whatever method you have faith in. There is no right or wrong. It's purely subjective! It's merely a matter of personal opinion and choice.

[richard poitras]

Check out the new jig from KatzMoses tools. The patent-pending jig utilizes the kerf from the saw blade to precisely set the rear fence 90 degrees to the blade. Neat idea.
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Any one have one? or tried it yet?

[Bob Jones 5443]

I've been using the 5 cut method from William Ng's website. Started with about .033. Was getting distracted with an empty belly that knew it was later than I did. I'll go back at it tomorrow.

Ng's the man. steps are easy to follow, sled is accurate. Every stage of squareness matters. Plus, he’s goofy.

Splurge and use high quality sheet stock. This is a sturdy, precision tool. Mine’s 1/2”, and that’s enough. 3/4” would be unnecessarily heavy, and would lower the cut capacity a bit.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Any one have one? or tried it yet?I have one on order. They aren't in production yet so it will be a few weeks until it arrives.

[Alan Lightstone]

Interesting idea. I used the William Ng method several times with great results. In retrospect, I agree that 0.75" is too heavy. Can't lift it. Use overhead hoist where it lives.

But the KM jig.... Interesting approach.

[John Kananis]

IMHO, there are way too many gimmicks in woodworking any more. The katz-moses jig seems like one of those (to me). I've used a sled always and always got square material out of it. The 5 cut method came out and everyone realized their sleds were wrong... why? Did everything you made until that point not have square ends? Don't we shoot ends anyway? (Full disclose, I've tried the 5 cut and it totally works, not knocking it but there's nothing wrong with using a square to setup, making a cut on a board and flipping one side over to check that all was setup correctly).

[James Schmidt]

Built my sled following the Katz-Moses video that uses the 5-cut method. It is not at all hard and gives me square cuts at tolerances beyond what my skills probably deserve. A sled is so easy to make that I really don't understand buying the KM jig.

[Doug Garson]

Built my sled following the Katz-Moses video that uses the 5-cut method. It is not at all hard and gives me square cuts at tolerances beyond what my skills probably deserve. A sled is so easy to make that I really don't understand buying the KM jig.
Agreed, I've also built sleds using the 5 cut method based on William Ings video (which I think Katz-Moses refers to). I think the jig might save about 1/2 hour of your time. So at $198, you would have to make a lot of sleds to justify the cost. Maybe worth it for a commercial shop making dozens of sleds in a year, can't see it either for a hobby shop.

[Jeff Neblett]

I like Tom McLaughlin's method...it's pretty simple and no fancy jigs. Google his YT video.

[James Jayko]

Agree the 5 cut method is pretty simple and works great. I'd give it a go and see if you can dial it in further. But .009" over 16 1/2" seems like its probably good enough...

Tom McLaughlin is great but man all of his videos are about 4x as long as they need to be.

[richard poitras]

Agreed, I've also built sleds using the 5 cut method based on William Ings video (which I think Katz-Moses refers to). I think the jig might save about 1/2 hour of your time. So at $198, you would have to make a lot of sleds to justify the cost. Maybe worth it for a commercial shop making dozens of sleds in a year, can't see it either for a hobby shop.

I agree but the jig is only $139.99 by it self...

[Doug Garson]

I agree but the jig is only $139.99 by it self...
Website says $198 on presale, regular price $240. Can't tell but maybe it's quoting me in Canadian dollars?
Just went to the website and put it in my cart and it shows up as Canadian Dollars.

[Michael Burnside]

The KM tool is a cool innovation to our craft. Necessary? No. If you want it, get it, enjoy. I squared my sled with a 1/8" gauge block in the kerf and a square I trust. That's basically all the KM tool is.

Quite honestly I don't understand the obsession with 5 cuts for accumulated error when 2 cuts and flipping the board is more than sufficient if you really can't trust any of your layout tools to tell you the cut is square :confused: When ya'll build a piece of furniture what tools do you use?

[James Jayko]

Quite honestly I don't understand the obsession with 5 cuts for accumulated error when 2 cuts and flipping the board is more than sufficient if you really can't trust any of your layout tools to tell you the cut is square :confused: When ya'll build a piece of furniture what tools do you use?

If you can increase your accuracy with almost no more work, why not? True, this isn't a machine shop. But why not start off as accurate as possible, given that this is a ~10 minute process?

[mike stenson]

When ya'll build a piece of furniture what tools do you use?

For joinery, a shooting board.

[Michael Burnside]

If you can increase your accuracy with almost no more work, why not? True, this isn't a machine shop. But why not start off as accurate as possible, given that this is a ~10 minute process?

Respectfully accuracy is not increased if you know what you're doing. You're chasing numbers that have no relevancy. If you can't build an accurate sled with a square for fine furniture building, you should figure that out first.

[Michael Burnside]

For joinery, a shooting board.

Sorry Mike, it wasn't a generalized question, rather it was in context of using the same tools to build a sled as one would a piece of fine furniture. I'm loosely familiar with the use of a shooting board but not anything specific to how it would help build a sled.

[James Jayko]

Respectfully accuracy is not increased if you know what you're doing. You're chasing numbers that have no relevancy. If you can't build an accurate sled with a square for fine furniture building, you should figure that out first.

Perhaps I'm not the pro that you are. I just like to give myself the best chance of being successful that I can. So for me, definitely an amateur, that means to put in a process that is repeatable and quantitative, not "this looks good." But all that matters is the result you get, so everybody...do what works for you!

[Michael Burnside]

Perhaps I'm not the pro that you are. I just like to give myself the best chance of being successful that I can. So for me, definitely an amateur, that means to put in a process that is repeatable and quantitative, not "this looks good." But all that matters is the result you get, so everybody...do what works for you!

That's right James, the results are what matter. Your method is fine, I was only suggesting that with some good layout tools you can trust and a little experience you can build anything, including a sled.

[mike stenson]

Sorry Mike, it wasn't a generalized question, rather it was in context of using the same tools to build a sled as one would a piece of fine furniture. I'm loosely familiar with the use of a shooting board but not anything specific to how it would help build a sled.
pretty much means that my sled's are not my final cut. Essentially, I con't care about their absolute accuracy. Because the shooting board will result in that, and a cleaner cut anyway ;)

[Jerry Bruette]

Well I got the sled dialed in the other day. I used the 5 cut method. I like it because after doing the math it tells me how far and which way to move the fence. I had a little trouble and found out that my fence was tipping when I would tighten it down. After fixing that problem it was easy.

For the folks that are saying to use the two cut method, does it tell you how much to move your fence to make it square?

For the folks that are saying to just use a square that you trust, what if I don't have one?

And I don't have, nor have I ever used, a shooting board, but my understanding is it wouldn't work for the plywood I'm going to use.

[Michael Burnside]

Glad you got it working Jerry, hope you enjoy making stuff on your new sled



For the folks that are saying to use the two cut method, does it tell you how much to move your fence to make it square?


Yes. You can look up the math, which isn't difficult, but if you have a feeler gauge it's simple. The gap is 2x the error in your fence. If the gap is at the bottom, move the left side of the fence down, else move it up by half that error. Once it looks perfect...it is perfect and measure with your square to check (oh, wait...see next reply)



For the folks that are saying to just use a square that you trust, what if I don't have one?


Good grief, stop making sleds, get a good square first. This is the old cart-before-the-horse problem IMHO.