Buffing wipe on poly

[Jerry Lear]

After dry can you
buff wipe on poly with beall buffing system

[Edward Weber]

You can, so long as the finish is thick enough and fully cured. You usually don't need all three steps, the Tripoli is quite coarse for finished pieces and can cut through, if you're not careful.
Often, as long as the dust nibs are sanded away, you can simply buff with the carnuba.
What sheen are you looking for or are you after a softer feel than the poly?

[Jerry Lear]

I like a gloss finish with very smooth feel

[Edward Weber]

Bealle is a good system but you can always get different (better) poilshing compounds than the basic Tripoli and White diamond that come with the system.
Example
https://www.menzerna.com/industrial-polishing/polishing-agent/solid-compounds
Many people go the "car polish" route
In this situation, polyurethane is considered a plastic, choose your compounds accordingly. You don't want to go to rough or over-heat the finish.

Here is an old thread you might find helpful
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?113846-Buffing-poly-wipe-on-finish

[Robert Hayward]

For a look at a multitude of different buffing/cutting/polishing compounds and methods check out the auto collision paint supply shops.

This past Christmas I made a replica school desk that was going to be actually used by a young grade school kid. I was asked to make the top tough enough for a young boy. I put three coats of epoxy in the top and wet sanded smooth. Then buffed back to a high luster using body shop compounds.

[Bill Howatt]

I've always been happy with the Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnuba but I don't doubt you can get others that might suit your taste better. The only problem I've ever had buffing came from buffing too soon, you want cured not just dried. Also, do pay attention to heating.

[Richard Coers]

Some polyurethanes will be too soft and not polish well. There is a distinct difference between dry and cured. Cured when the temperatures are cooler could mean waiting a month before buffing. Lacquer is far superior for a glass like finish.

[Edward Weber]

Just giving suggestions but there are also different (harder) waxes than carnuba and there are also different qualities and materials of wheels. All of these play off one another to achieve the finish you like, lots of variables to consider if you want.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jerry, in addition to all the good advice on making sure the poly finish is smooth and cured before buffing, I would also highly suggest using some sort of microcrystalline wax. There are a number of varieties out there to choose from and they excel in preventing water spots on the finished surface. Carnuba wax works but shows fingerprints and any humidity will cause spotting. Here are a couple of examples of microcrystalline wax:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/75652-lee-valley-conservators-wax?item=53Z3110

https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline-Wax-Polish-65/dp/B001DSZWEM

[John C Cox]

I have sanded and hand polished out wipe on poly finishes. It works well assuming FULLY cured and plenty of finish build. An average high gloss is going to start around 0.015" of finish build pre-sanding to end up at 0.003"-0.005".

This will look crazy thick, but it allows for leveling, fine sanding, and polishing.

Less initial thickness usually means sand-thru.

[David Walser]

As others have already mentioned, the Tripoli and White Diamond polishing compounds that come with the Beal System may not be the best to use when buffing poly. I recommend using a plastic polish. You can also use the polishes made for buffing automotive finishes. Here are some additional suggestions:

1. Use a clean, soft, buffing wheel. A wheel loaded up with other buffing compounds may be more aggressive than you want for buffing poly or lacquer. It's best to have a separate wheel for each compound. A 'stiff' wheel may also be more aggressive than you want.

2. Turn the speed down. As with sanding, heat is your enemy when buffing poly and lacquer. Heat will soften the film finish, which may lead to streaking. Light pressure and a lower speed will give better results.

[Rich Aldrich]

I try to avoid white diamond if there are inclusions or if the wood is dark. It gets in the inclusions and its tough to get out. I definitely do not use it on burls.

I agree with Steve on the microcrystalline wax over carnauba wax.

[Peter Blair]

I am in the process of building a wipe on poly finish on this piece as we speak. It presently has 6 coats of wipe on poly that I plan to buff with a modified Beal system after I finish applying the poly and let it set to get really set. I have done lot of both WOP and Rattle Can lacquer and both polish up nicely

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