Is spray welding by mail a possibility?

[Zachary Hoyt]

Now that my new bandsaw is ready to run I need to look into selling my old one. I'd like to get the lower shaft repaired first, if possible at a not too scarily high price. I live way out in the middle of nowhere, without even a scrap yard closer than a 90 minute drive, so I imagine I would need to mail the shaft to someone who could spray weld the front bearing journal to build it up and then turn it back to the proper size. If anyone knows of a place that does this work long distance I'd be grateful to hear about it. If I could get it done for $100-200 I would happily do that, but if it would be more than that I will probably just try to sell the saw as is. It does still run and work, and I have been using it this way to build instruments, but it has more vibration than I really like. I didn't want the down time that would have been required to get the shaft repaired, but now that I am moving to the new saw I have all the time in the world. I'll be grateful for any advice.

[Jerry Bruette]

Have you had the shaft out of the saw and verified the bad journal? I've seen emergency repairs made with Loctite 635 and a brand called Belzona Molecular Metal. But I don't think these are permanent fixes. I don't even like my experiences with spray metal. I've seen it flake off especially on shafts that have impact, the spray metal cracks and then flakes off.

I'd rather see the shaft cut off and a stub welded on then turned to the proper dimensions.

[Kevin Jenness]

You sure are centrally dislocated. I have had a similar issue dealt with by sleeving an arbor. It's hard to find a machinist job shop these days. I go to a metal fab shop with some machining capability in the next town that fixes farm machinery and everything else. It couldn't hurt to call them: Giroux Body Shop, Hinesburg VT, 802 482 2162- talk to Steve Giroux. They are honest and efficient and will tell you if they can do the job with a good estimate. You could also try Dessureau in Barre VT http://dessureau.com/about.html. I haven't used them but they are said to be capable.

[Ronald Blue]

Are there no machine/welding shops in your area? Seems like something a decent machine shop would be able to do. It's been 30 years since I had any involvement spray welding. What I recall was the surface had to be prepped (roughed up) and then pre-heated to a minimum temperature. A temp stick was used to know when it was hot enough. Then the powder was applied until a sufficient amount was applied. As I recall there was more than one powder compound but I'm not certain. I linked a company in NY that looks quite capable of doing the work you need.

https://altamontspraywelding.com/

[Mark Hennebury]

Use locktite or get a new shaft made, unless its an expensive shaft. I have done a few thermal spray shafts, and I wouldn't touch it for that price, too much work. the machine shop just down the road from me charges $130 and hour.

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[Bill Dufour]

I would turn down the bad area and glue on a speeisleeve of the correct diameter. ball bearing I assume metric.
A high school shop class might make a new one for materials and piazzas for the kids.
BilLD

[Bill Dufour]

I just realized this is a walker turner machine. Some of their drill presses use custom bearings. I hope this is a standard bearing not some oddball extended race one. A speedi sleeve is designed to make a new surface for a lip seal. i am not sure if they would really work for a press fit.
If the rough area can be turned down to the next lower bore size a bearing switch might work. If there is about 50% good metal at corect OD 365 should work fine. What holds the shaft in the bearing? Just friction, or is there more like a shoulder and clip.
My walker turner drill press quill spindle had a similar issue. I cleaned it and added jb weld. Turned it back to correct diameter on the lathe and it has lasted ten plus years. As I recall it is held in place by a shoulder and a e-clip so even if all the jb weld fell out the spindle would not fall.
Bill D

[Zachary Hoyt]

Thanks, you've all given me a lot to think about. The saw is not terribly old, from the '80s as far as I know. The shaft steps down from 1" to 5/8" in increments, one step for the bearings and then another step for the pulley and wheel. The bearings are normal off the shelf metric. I drew a paper diagram of the measurements when I had it apart back in February. I did try with the Loctite metal material before but didn't get the fit perfect, and ended up taking off a bit too much of what I had put on.

[Nick Crivello]

What model bandsaw is this? How much is it worth?

I am wondering if it's worth effort and time to fix yourself vs selling it at a discounted rate for someone else to repair.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Yes, I think you are right. I'll be listing the saw in a minute in the Classifieds. Maybe whoever buys it will live in a more civilized area with better options.

I forgot to say earlier, Kevin, I like "centrally dislocated". It describes us perfectly.

[Richard Coers]

Personally I would have the shaft trued up and then add a sleeve. Laser spraying is usually reserved for electric motors.

[Brian Runau]

Now that my new bandsaw is ready to run I need to look into selling my old one. I'd like to get the lower shaft repaired first, if possible at a not too scarily high price. I live way out in the middle of nowhere, without even a scrap yard closer than a 90 minute drive, so I imagine I would need to mail the shaft to someone who could spray weld the front bearing journal to build it up and then turn it back to the proper size. If anyone knows of a place that does this work long distance I'd be grateful to hear about it. If I could get it done for $100-200 I would happily do that, but if it would be more than that I will probably just try to sell the saw as is. It does still run and work, and I have been using it this way to build instruments, but it has more vibration than I really like. I didn't want the down time that would have been required to get the shaft repaired, but now that I am moving to the new saw I have all the time in the world. I'll be grateful for any advice.

What runs against the shaft at this spot that has worn the shaft? Thanks. Brian

[Zachary Hoyt]

A failed bearing. The worn area is under the bearing inner race. I found the damage when I replaced the bearings. I didn't think they were that bad, but they may have been, or the damage may have been older. The rear bearing journal is fine, it's just the front one.

[Richard Coers]

Here's a quick and dirty fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-8TnHhpM1A

[Brian Runau]

I would turn down the bad area and glue on a speeisleeve of the correct diameter. ball bearing I assume metric.
A high school shop class might make a new one for materials and piazzas for the kids.
BilLD

Bill, I apologize if I come off as an "oil seal" snob. I sold Chicago rawhide as a factory rep for 7 years. Wouldn't recommend a speedi sleeve under a radial bearing. Might work, but not designed for that. Brian

[Bill Dufour]

Brian you are probably right. The thin wall is fine for a wiping seal but a friction fit will probably crumple up the sleeve.
Further thought says when I did the jb weld thing I had no lathe. So jb weld then light passes with a file.
Bill D

[Bruce Wrenn]

Instead of spray welding, why not build area up using MIG welder, and then turn down to size.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I think the concern is that by welding on one side at a time the shaft would be pulled out of straightness. I may be wrong about that, though.

[Jerry Bruette]

Instead of spray welding, why not build area up using MIG welder, and then turn down to size.

We had a fabricator where I used to work that was very skilled at doing this. You have to be very careful not to warp the shaft. He would run a bead the length of the surface being repaired, let it fully cool and then run another bead 180* opposite of the first one and continue around the shaft. Also allowing it to fully cool after every weld and making sure to go 180* from the last bead. You'd still need a metal lathe and measuring instruments to turn the shaft to the proper diameter.

[Rob Luter]

You don't mention how much you need to build up the shaft. I've done this in the past using a plater. I had some small shafts that experienced fretting corrosion unter the bearings. A local guy (I know, you're in the boonies) hard chrome plated the worn areas and build the lost material back. I think he added 0.020" to the diameter. We then OD ground the shaft back to design diameter. A bonus was that the chrome was some pretty tough stuff and a much better place for the bearings to ride. No more fretting corrosion.

[Ted Baxter]

Might try keith rucker at vintage machine he may be able to help here is a link to his youtube channel https://youtu.be/O-QIWwW1LOs?si=Bg8ZCmRBiWDAF4Ia

[Zachary Hoyt]

Reading a thread about a Parks planer on OWWM led me to parts4parks.com which appears to sell a new shaft for $86. If they have one, at that price or anywhere close, I will buy it and put it in. Much better than any kind of repair to the old shaft, I would imagine, and the price looks good.