What clear plastic for router base and where to get it?

[Rich Engelhardt]

I want to make some aux bases for my trim routers so - what should I use and where should I get it?

[Jimmy Harris]

Acrylic or Plexiglass would be my choice. It's not as impact resistant as polycarbonate or Lexan, but doesn't scratch as easily, so it would be easier to see through for longer. But really, either would work.

You can find both at most hardware stores in the window and glass section. Or you can buy them online. The bigger the base, the thicker you'll want it to keep it from flexing too much. They also make premade router bases that you can buy at woodworking stores or online. You'll pay a bit more, but save some time. Though, if you've already got a router with a spiral bit and a drill press, it wouldn't be too hard to make your own. Both acrylic and polycarbonate work pretty easily, so long as you keep your speeds down so you don't melt the plastic. Just don't remove the protective film until after you've done your work to help reduce scratches.

[George Yetka]

Check out the 3x3 custom base. $70 and is pretty multifunctional. I opened mine yesterday.

[Wes Grass]

Dont forget to break the edges. I peeled back a good sized chunk of meat on a knuckle some years back.

And there's a vague memory of something similar with a freshly jointed piece of hardwood.

[Warren Lake]

plexi glass works fine.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I preferred lexan when I made mine. It does scratch a bit easier than acylic, but it's tougher. If you go for acrylic, be sure to get cast, not extruded. Extruded melts if you look at it the wrong way, so it's tough to get clean cuts when you are making your base.

[Richard Coers]

any kind of thicker plastic, wood, Baltic birch, Corian, or aluminum make sub bases. Find an acrylic supplier near you and ask for off cuts. Amazon sells small sheets, but you can buy sub bases for less than $15 there too.

[Ray Selinger]

Lexan doesn't scratch that much easier than Plexiglass . It much easier to work with, it does not crack if you look at it in the wrong tone . I've used both. Lexan is shatter resistant. Look for industrial plastics store.

[Warren Lake]

been using plexi over 40 years, off cuts from customer stuff. Scratches dont matter. I know how to polish, its not a car show.

[Kent A Bathurst]

My fave is from McMaster - very convenient, and next-day since I live in Atlanta. No need to tell me I am overpaying for service and shipping - I've heard it often enough from - well, you know who you are :D

Anyway, back on message: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/4097/8574K819

The 1/4" is what I use.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Check out the 3x3 custom base. $70 and is pretty multifunctional. I opened mine yesterday.Yeah I picked up one of Tamar's 6 in one bases. It's a slick setup. I need some additional styles though.

[Jim Becker]

Rich, I've always prefered Lexan for this kind of thing, even though it's not as crystal clear as plexiglas and similar. Why? It's less likely to crack when you are drilling into it.

[Tom M King]

I get off cuts from my local glass company for nothing, but I have done some business with them over the decades. They use some brand of polycarbonate that is different than regular plexiglass or lexan, but I forget what it is. It's nice cutting stuff and very clear.

[Richard Coers]

Lexan doesn't scratch that much easier than Plexiglass . It much easier to work with, it does not crack if you look at it in the wrong tone . I've used both. Lexan is shatter resistant. Look for industrial plastics store.
Lexan or polycarbonate is so soft you can pull a curl with a hand plane, and then bend it cold in a sheet metal brake.

[Zachary Hoyt]

Plexiglas is what I have used. I've got a 1/4" thick piece for the base on my main router that has lasted about 10 years now.

[Warren Lake]

If something is soft then less chance it will damage laminate. The plexi was not soft and I also had no issue drilling it. A past customer talked me into a job and I had to use their choice of lam. It was so damn delicate that it was hard not to leave track marks. Im used to the Nevamar stuff especially the Matrix stuff that used to have aluminum oxide in it. I was super careful trimming to blow shards away, still that brand and colour and wont mention it as shania said dont impress me much.

[Jimmy Harris]

I think this is one of those situations where everyone recommends whatever they have. Which means that any of them work well enough to get the job done without much to complain about.

[Warren Lake]

the black original stuff different on both Makita and Porter cable got scratches with use as well. I never focused or looked close but easy enough to do. Reason I used Plexi was i had the offcuts so its simple and easy. I dont remember ever having issues with that material. Scratches on the last cheap Lam yes. Told the customer I would not use that again and get a better brand. Also its easy to polish back up to clear if that is wanted. I used to have to do the edges and it was easy.

[Curt Harms]

I've used 3/8" acrylic for sub bases in the past. I wanted the sub base to accommodate Porter Cable style bushings and 1/4" thick material didn't give me much 'meat' to work with. I also counter bored the mounting holes rather than counter sinking them. 3/8" is better here as well, make the hole on the bottom of the base large enough to accomodate the screw head then switch bits and drill the thru hole. I made the thru holes a tiny bit larger than the screw so there is a tiny bit of slop. Center the bit in the bushing then tighten the mounting screws. Will the base move due to the oversized holes? Maybe but I haven't noticed it so far in limited usage.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I've used 3/8" acrylic for sub bases in the past. I wanted the sub base to accommodate Porter Cable style bushings and 1/4" thick material didn't give me much 'meat' to work with. I also counter bored the mounting holes rather than counter sinking them. 3/8" is better here as well, make the hole on the bottom of the base large enough to accommodate the screw head then switch bits and drill the thru hole. I made the thru holes a tiny bit larger than the screw so there is a tiny bit of slop. Center the bit in the bushing then tighten the mounting screws. Will the base move due to the oversized holes? Maybe but I haven't noticed it so far in limited usage.
W/Porter Cable bushings - a little and I mean - a very little - movement would be desired wouldn't it? That way a cone and centering bit could do their job and bring it dead center.

[Edward Weber]

W/Porter Cable bushings - a little and I mean - a very little - movement would be desired wouldn't it? That way a cone and centering bit could do their job and bring it dead center.
This is how all of my sub bases are. There is a small amount of play in the mounting screws. WHen using a centering cone, everything lines up to the guide bushing and then tighten the base to the router.

[Tom Bain]

Transparent Aluminum :D (for all you Trekies)

[Edward Weber]

Transparent Aluminum :D (for all you Trekies)
https://ceramics.org/ceramic-tech-today/ceramic-video/video-transparent-aluminum-from-star-trek-to-reality/
We're almost there

[Curt Harms]

W/Porter Cable bushings - a little and I mean - a very little - movement would be desired wouldn't it? That way a cone and centering bit could do their job and bring it dead center.

That's the reason for making the holes slightly over sized.