TS technique question

[Rob Blaustein]

I have a really basic question that doesn't seem to be covered in what I've read. If you want to rip off say 1" from a 12" board that has two good straight edges, do you set the fence 1" from the blade and push it through, or do you set it at 11". I guess I'm asking if the keeper piece should always be the one that gets pushed, or are there times when that's not the case?

[scott spencer]

HI Rob - I don't know what the "official" answer is, but I usually consider the piece between the blade and fecne to be the "keeper" and the remainder to be "cut off". There have been times when I've used the cutoff as the keeper piece, especially for thin slices, but you have to remember to account for the blade thickness.

[tod evans]

rob, i place the piece i want to keep against the fence.....02 tod

[David Wilson]

Rob I also would set the fence 1 " from the blade but be sure to use a push stick or the 1" piece will be thrown back at you.

[David Duke]

HI Rob - I don't know what the "official" answer is, but I usually consider the piece between the blade and fecne to be the "keeper" and the remainder to be "cut off". There have been times when I've used the cutoff as the keeper piece, especially for thin slices, but you have to remember to account for the blade thickness.

What Scott said.......:) .

[John M. Cioffi]

David,

The general rule is that the finish peice is always cut between the fence & blade. With a 1" piece, a 3/4 wide push stick will work great. If you make a few in different thicknesses, you will always have the appropriate one ready at hand.
Work safely.
John

[Byron Trantham]

I would run the 11" piece (keeper) against the fence. If for no other reason than set the fence to the dimension need.:p

[Dewayne Baker]

For a 1" piece I would rip it on the fence side. I Use a "push shoe" I call it. The push shoe puts downward pressure on the piece and has a lip at the back to push with. This works great for keeping the stock tight to the table and you fingers out of the way.

Now, more slender strips like 1/8" lets say. That's not so safe. The solution for that is make a stop block to the left of the blade to reference your stock against for a consistent rip width on the left side of the blade (opposite the fence side). Move the fence after each cut referencing the stock against the stop.

Just be sure to work safely and mount the stop block back away from the blade far enough it woln't cause the stock to bind.

[David Abel]

I have a really basic question that doesn't seem to be covered in what I've read. If you want to rip off say 1" from a 12" board that has two good straight edges, do you set the fence 1" from the blade and push it through, or do you set it at 11". I guess I'm asking if the keeper piece should always be the one that gets pushed, or are there times when that's not the case?

Keeper piece between fence and blade. I don't use a tape measure, I use the calibrated fence/tape to set accurate dimensions.

[Dick Bringhurst]

I think the scale for the fence is usually set to measure the distance between the blade and the fence so the kerf is taken from the off cut. If the desired piece is to the left of the blade it means you have to measure each setting or change the scale for setting the fence. Dick B.

[Vaughn McMillan]

In most cases, I personally have the "keeper" between the fence and the blade, but as Dewayne mentioned, for thin strips I move the fence for each cut, so the "keeper" is coming from the "waste" side of the blade. This is only feasible if you have an accurate fence adjustment (i.e. Incra) or a stop block setup.

And of course, don't forget the push stick/shoe/Grrrripper/whatever and the splitter, too. ;)

- Vaughn

[Steve Clardy]

Most always my keeper is between the blade and fence

[Tom Drake]

I keep the keeper piece next to the fence.

[Jason Morgan]

For me it depends on the piece. In my most recent project I have needed lots of 3/8" think material for edging plywood. In that case I use the cutoff side as the actual work piece. The hassle is for multiples, you have to move the fence each time (more reproducibility error) and you have to always remember to add the width of the blade (dont always remember that myself). For anything 1" and wider I would set the fence for and use piece between the blade and fence. This is also better for making multiples. Less reproducibility error. Although I am always cautious about sliding anything close to the blade.

Good luck!

PS. Helps to have a 0 clearance insert too.

[Joe Blankshain]

I put the keeper piece between the fence and the blade. It gives me more to work with when pushing the wood through. As said before always use a push stick close to the blade to avoid the "flying kickback". My .10 worth (inflation and cost of living increase)

[Jack Norfleet]

If you put the keeper piece on the side away from the fence, make sure to take the saw kerf into account. I do like the others have recommended, the keeper piece next to the fence.