Face frame attachment to mdf HELP

[Diane Barker]

Hi. Silly me…I am installing cabinets in my kitchen. I (foolishly) decided the refrigerator surround should be 3/4” mdf because I thought it would be dead flat and the plywood looked a little wonky. It is installed waiting for a face frame and paint. Face frame is finger jointed pine. But…..how to attach it? My thoughts are glue and Brad nail. Or, put pocket holes in the mdf and pocket screw with course threads to the face frame. But I am not sure how I would clamp it (other than having my boyfriend hold it, doesn’t sound like a good plan).

please tell me the best way. Thanks

[Rob Sack]

A good quality glue like Titebond II and 18 gauge brad nails at least 1 5/8 inch if using a nail gun or 1 3/4 inch finish nails if nailing by hand should do the trick.. The gun nails have a vinyl coating that heats up as it is shot and acts as a sort of "nail glue". If hand nailing with finish nails, you might want to consider pilot holes first. However, if you can still get a pocket screw jig into position, that would be my first choice.

[John TenEyck]

Glue and biscuits would be my choice with MDF, with a pin nail or two, as needed, to hold the parts until the glue sets. I built some cabinets with veneered MDF over 30 years ago, and that's how the parts are joined together. The are still going strong. I think pocket holes in MDF is going to be a problem when you drive the screws.

John

[Lee Schierer]

Either method should work. MDF will soak up a lot of glue so be generous. As Rob said you can use a brad gun or finish nails.

Pocket hole screws will pull the face frame to the MDF, so no need to have some one hold it. I would also glue it. If you use both glue and pocket screws, start all the screws in the pockets before you put on the glue. That way you don't waste time trying to quickly put in screws while holding the screw, the driver and the face frame at the same time.

[Jim Becker]

Glue and brad nails since it sounds like a paint finish application; 23 g pin nails at angles if stain grade on your face frames. You do not need biscuits or dowels or whatever unless you have a critical alignment issue that you're not able to handle without them.

[Edward Weber]

Glue and biscuits would be my choice with MDF, with a pin nail or two, as needed, to hold the parts until the glue sets. I built some cabinets with veneered MDF over 30 years ago, and that's how the parts are joined together. The are still going strong. I think pocket holes in MDF is going to be a problem when you drive the screws.

John
+1
Glue and #0 biscuits are great for your situation.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Drill double pocket screw holes, then use pocket screw clamp in one to hold frame in place while driving the screw in the other hole.

[Richard Coers]

Face nailing a face frame goes back to 50s carpenters building long runs of cabinets in place. Glue and biscuits is also my choice.

[Warren Lake]

done glue and biscuits or before that run a rabbet all around. If the face frame is square and you rabbit it tight it will make the cabinet square.

[Diane Barker]

Thank you everyone! I am always amazed by how much I learn on this forum. It is nice to be a part of a community of people who want to share knowledge and help each other.

[jack duren]

Just glue and few nails. Remember with MDF, if you get to close to the edge with nails it will pucker the MDF.Keep the nails centered…

[Bruce Wrenn]

Just glue and few nails. Remember with MDF, if you get to close to the edge with nails it will pucker the MDF.Keep the nails centered… Also make sure chisel point of nail runs across edge of MDF, not parallel to edge.