Favorite Cyanoacrylate (CA) Super Glue

[tim walker]

What are your recommendations? I have found that some, in the past, are bad about plugging the nozzle so any that you have experienced in that regard get a go to the front of the line pass. Thanks

[Aaron Inami]

I use Starbond "Super Fast Thin" CA glue for filling cracks. I also use Starbond Medium CA glue for thicker stuff. I also like Gorrilla Glue Super Glue GEL for adhesive on multiple things. I have never had a problem with clogged nozzles on any of these.

Oh, by the way, I tried Akfix 705 and hated it. It's like a cheap thick glue that's difficult to handle.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I use Stew-Mac #30. It's not cheap and if there's an equally good alternative I'll be happy to switch. I go through about a bottle a year, so it's not too bad. The nozzle does plug, but it's easy to reopen. If the plug is just at the tip I use a sharp pointed metal tool whose name I don't know, like a very pointy awl. If it's plugged a long way down I drill it out with a 1/16" drill bit.

[Jim Morgan]

A few places offer micro extension tips for CA bottles. I like the ones from Easy Inlay (https://www.easyinlay.com/product-page/ca-glue-tips), but you can find others around the web. These have a tiny opening, making placement of the glue more accurate. If the tip gets clogged, just snip off the end.

[Aaron Inami]

Addendum: Both the Starbond and Gorrilla Super Glue GEL were still liquid and usable even 4 months after being opened. The Starbond comes with micro extension tips as well.

I had both an opened and un-opened Akfix 705. Both solidified and were completely unusable.

[Steve Engelschall]

Another vote for the thin Starbond and the included extension tips. Good stuff - I leave the extension uncapped for months and it never hardens in the nozzle.

[Tom Bain]

Starbond for me. Lasts “forever” if you store it in the fridge.

[Patty Hann]

Mercury Adhesives, Medium Flex, 2oz. (M300FM).
So far, I've had it about 4 months, still good.
Cap it immediately after use.

[Tom Blank]

Another vote for Mercury. The 1oz bottle has a nice no clog tip. However, I use CA in small quantities, so usually unscrew the entire cap, dip a straight wire in the bottle and put a drop or two exactly where I need it.

Tom

[Earl McLain]

Another Mercury user for general use. Glu-Boost for a finishing CA (pen turning). Both have a stainless steel post in the cap to keep the spout from clogging. When i open a new bottle, i usually do a quick wax coating on the nozzle & threads which helps with clean-up. I also use Bob Smith's Super Thin for small cracks.

Finally--i keep old guitar strings handy, the B-string is about perfect for cleaning CA nozzles. Keep it in a small coil, then snip the end off as it gets bent or caked with CA. B or G string will clear nozzles on windshield washers, and the wound strings make a nice abrasive pore cleaner. Mine are usually Martin SP Light--but a cheap set of light guage acoustic strings would work as well as a tool. (@Zachary Hoyt--banjo strings would probably work too!! Violin players--i have no idea what old gut strings are capable of!!)

[roger wiegand]

Mostly Starbond and Satellite City here. The tips are always clogged, I have a rotating stock of caps and tips that I just keep in a quart jar of acetone to dissolve the plugs. The glue itself lasts for years on the shelf, even with the most careful cleaning the tips and microtips are always plugged pretty much every time I pick a bottle up. With microtips they clog both at the skinny end and where the microtip joins the regular tip.

[Clint Baxter]

I use Stick Fast with the change-a-tip nozzles, Mercury adhesives. And some of the Starbond offerings that have colors/tints. Have had good luck with all of them. Mercury is probably my current favorite of the lot.

Clint

[Jimmy Harris]

Whatever's cheapest. The tips always clog, eventually. If you have replaceable tips, you can try soaking them in acetone, assuming they're made of metal or a plastic that won't melt in acetone. You can use rubbing alcohol too, but it takes forever. And sometimes you can take a small drill bit and drill out the clog. Then soak the bit in acetone to clean it off. Though mostly I just buy the small bottles and replace them frequently. I try to get them in bottle about the size of the project I need, always assuming they won't last longer than one use.

I don't use it a lot for woodworking. It breaks down over time, so it's not the best long-term solution. But there are times when it comes in handy. Sometimes I'll prefer one brand over another, because they can have additives that make them better for certain situations. CA glue is a pretty broad category.

The best bottle at not getting clogged that I've found is Loctite's Gel Control Super Glue in the bottle where you squeeze the sides. It's pretty thick, so it's not always the best option. But I keep a bottle with my fishing gear and will reuse it dozens of times throughout the year, and it rarely clogs.

[George Yetka]

I didnt have too good of luck with the tightbond brand. The starbond works well and before that the fastcap stuff worked well. Id say I like the starbond best. I like the offering of color options too. Black/brown/white

[Stan Calow]

I like Starbond, Stew-Mac, and the house brand from Highland Woodworking. But also use HF, and whatever I find at the local hardware store too. I like to use the small single-use tubes when I can, in order to avoid storage issues.

[Bill Howatt]

Very happy with Star-bond.
Moisture is likely the problem for clogging. I always whack the bottle bottom on the bench when done to knock the glue out of the application tube as much as possible. Can't say I'm real good at doing this faithfully, but storing the capped bottles/applicators in a glass jar with silica-gel will reduce moisture inside the jar.

[John TenEyck]

Whatever's cheapest. The tips always clog, eventually. If you have replaceable tips, you can try soaking them in acetone, assuming they're made of metal or a plastic that won't melt in acetone. You can use rubbing alcohol too, but it takes forever. And sometimes you can take a small drill bit and drill out the clog. Then soak the bit in acetone to clean it off. Though mostly I just buy the small bottles and replace them frequently. I try to get them in bottle about the size of the project I need, always assuming they won't last longer than one use.

I don't use it a lot for woodworking. It breaks down over time, so it's not the best long-term solution. But there are times when it comes in handy. Sometimes I'll prefer one brand over another, because they can have additives that make them better for certain situations. CA glue is a pretty broad category.

The best bottle at not getting clogged that I've found is Loctite's Gel Control Super Glue in the bottle where you squeeze the sides. It's pretty thick, so it's not always the best option. But I keep a bottle with my fishing gear and will reuse it dozens of times throughout the year, and it rarely clogs.


Interesting comment that I've read before. I've used Starbond medium to glue on handrail returns. In over 10 years, not one has failed.

John

[Alan Lightstone]

Starbond for me. Lasts “forever” if you store it in the fridge.
That's exactly what I do. I have a glass mason jar with desiccant pellets in the bottom, and bottles of Thin, Medium, and Thick CA glue in the closed mason jar in the fridge. Haven't had any go bad before I've used them up.

[Bernie Kopfer]

What is not being addressed is, are some brands of CA glue better than other? And how do we define better? It would be nice if Project Farm would test CA glues at least in terms of strength of bond, and speed of curing.
I make it a point to always wipe the nozzle with a paper towel, and tap the container to clear the tip after use, seems to help prevent clogging.

[Jim Becker]

I cannot say if there are brands that are "better", but it's likely some are...how to quantify that, however? At any rate, I typically use StarBond and have some StewMac left in some consistencies. The biggest challenge is that I don't use it "a lot" so keeping things flowing as well as not cooking off and becoming unusable is the normal challenge. I keep a supply of new tops/nozzles because that's where most issues ensue with infrequent use, even with having a good habit of "banging them down" to clear the nozzle before putting them back on the shelf. I mostly use mid-weight, but keep both thin and thick. Also keep a container of brown for filling defects too small to warrant mixing up resin.

[Michael Burnside]

I’m the same as you Jim and I typically use StarBond. While I can’t tell much difference in the glue, the accelerator from StarBond is better than Mercury Adhesives. Could be the type of sprayer or a few differences in the % additives but it seems to work better.

[John TenEyck]

Starbond's accelerator works with other CA glues. The aerosol spray bottle is far less expensive than the rattle can version, too. I recently bought some EZ Bond CA glue. It's about half the price, bonds just as well for my CNC projects and works well with the Starbond accelerator.

Starbond lasts a long time after opening. I'm not sure about the EZ Bond yet. Regardless of brand, I buy a big bottle, keep it in a fridge, and transfer it into 2 ounce bottles as needed. The EZ Bond looks like it has a shorter life once out at room temp. If that turns out to be correct, I'll start using 1ounce bottles. EZ Bond has a stronger odor than Starbond, for sure, and it's unpleasant.

John

[Prashun Patel]

Like Jim I have no favorite. One thing that helps keep it fresh is to get a supply of disposable micro pipettes. This way you don't have to tip the bottle and gum up the threads or a nozzle.

If you have a little acetone, you can even flush the pipettes with that and reuse them. I don't.

[Jim Becker]

The micro-pipettes are great, but unfortunately, they're really only good for wicking the thin stuff which I rarely use. But I do employ them when they are the right choice.

[Patty Hann]

Another Mercury user for general use. Glu-Boost for a finishing CA (pen turning). Both have a stainless steel post in the cap to keep the spout from clogging. When i open a new bottle, i usually do a quick wax coating on the nozzle & threads which helps with clean-up. I also use Bob Smith's Super Thin for small cracks.

Finally--i keep old guitar strings handy, the B-string is about perfect for cleaning CA nozzles. Keep it in a small coil, then snip the end off as it gets bent or caked with CA. B or G string will clear nozzles on windshield washers, and the wound strings make a nice abrasive pore cleaner. Mine are usually Martin SP Light--but a cheap set of light guage acoustic strings would work as well as a tool. (@Zachary Hoyt--banjo strings would probably work too!! Violin players--i have no idea what old gut strings are capable of!!)

Thanks for the tip. I don't play a stringed instrument, but several friends do. I'm sure I can get a discarded B or G string.

[Doug Garson]

The aerosol spray bottle is far less expensive than the rattle can version, too. John

Normally that would be the case but I just bought 6 oz of the rattle can spray for $22.50 Cnd from Lee Valley. Amazon.ca has the 8 oz pump version for $50.34 Cnd with free shipping for prime members. Oddly Amazon.ca doesn't carry the aerosol version other than in a kit with 2 oz each of the thin, medium and thick glues for $58.62 Cnd. plus $40 shipping. Lee Valley doesn't have the pump version. I picked up the last aerosol can from Lee Valley Vancouver today (I wanted 2 cans but they only had 1) and the store clerk said it's difficult to get. Strange pricing.

[John TenEyck]

Normally that would be the case but I just bought 6 oz of the rattle can spray for $22.50 Cnd from Lee Valley. Amazon.ca has the 8 oz pump version for $50.34 Cnd with free shipping for prime members. Oddly Amazon.ca doesn't carry the aerosol version other than in a kit with 2 oz each of the thin, medium and thick glues for $58.62 Cnd. plus $40 shipping. Lee Valley doesn't have the pump version. I picked up the last aerosol can from Lee Valley Vancouver today (I wanted 2 cans but they only had 1) and the store clerk said it's difficult to get. Strange pricing.

You're in the wrong country for bargains. Amazon USA has it for $17.49.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUVAY9K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

John

[Doug Garson]

You're in the wrong country for bargains. Amazon USA has it for $17.49.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUVAY9K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

John
True but the link says $12.50 and "currently unavailable", :mad:

[John TenEyck]

True but the link says $12.50 and "currently unavailable", :mad:

Curious. It shows $17.49, in stock, and free delivery on Thursday for me.

John

[Doug Garson]

I guess they don't want to ship to Canada. Oh well, at least I can get Kinder Surprise Eggs here. :cool:

[Melvin Feng]

I use a good amount of CA glue throughout the year, typically just thin and medium. I don't really use thick much any more. The reason why I use a good amount, is I often use it to fill cracks, gaps, and other openings in my woodturnings. I twice turn my bowls, and will sometimes get cracks, or notice a bug hole, a knot, etc. I use thin for the smaller cracks, as well as stabilizing punky sections if it is spalted, or just soft end grain. For bug holes and the like, I'll use medium. For bigger cracks or separations, I'll use epoxy.

I buy the larger 16 oz kits from starbond now, where you get the big bottle, and then a set of smaller bottles and tips to refill as necessary along with a small bag of micro tips. The kits are usually around $50-60 depending on coupons at amazon. I store the big bottle at refrigeration temps, and only refill as necessary. I like having the big bottle as I don't have to buy as often.

[Tom M King]

I bought one of these packages because any thick stuff I ever used is not used frequently and it always sets up before I need some again. I noticed when I went to get this link that it says package of 12, but the box I received must have 50 of the little tubes in it. The tubes are tiny, but sometimes only a dab is needed. I used three tubes for a shoe repair yesterday.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YEN37K?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

For thin and medium I also like the bottles of Starbond that I know are over a couple of years old and still good.

[andrew whicker]

Thanks for the tip. I don't play a stringed instrument, but several friends do. I'm sure I can get a discarded B or G string.

I have a few of these hanging around from when I used Oxy Acetylene more often: https://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770084-File-Cleaners-Small/dp/B002ACOXSQ

They come in handy for various things like this.

[Clint Baxter]

I just pulled some of my tinted Starbond bottles to use, (needed some of the black), and found that the tips on both my brown and black 2 oz. bottles had split along their length. The glues were stored in a bedding of desiccant beads inside a peanut jar as well as a smaller bottle of white. The glue still seems to still be good which I'll attribute to the desiccant.

At least Starbond sells replacement tips that fit their bottles and I now have an order in for those along with some micro-tips and other offerings from their site.

Probably wouldn't have happened if I'd have used it all up faster, but I don't go though the tinted as fast as the clear.

Clint

[Patty Hann]

I have a few of these hanging around from when I used Oxy Acetylene more often: https://www.amazon.com/Hobart-770084-File-Cleaners-Small/dp/B002ACOXSQ

They come in handy for various things like this.

Oh yes! Those look familiar.:)... I took a welding class about 7 years ago.
I still have that tool (nozzle cleaner?) somewhere in my tool box.:rolleyes: