Router plate reducing rings

[Jim McLeod]

Hello all. I have an old, which looks to me like a Rockler router table top in good shape. Problem is there is no reducing rings available that I can find. Its an odd ball size 3 11/16 x 1/8" 3 screw attachment. Considering trying to make a few and was wondering if anyone has made there own. I do have one ring with a recess for what I'm assuming a guide bushing. Don't know much about that. Anyway, I do have a pattern. Not sure what material to use. Lexan maybe. 1/8" tempered hard board is a perfect thickness match but not sure if it would be strong enough. I guess the biggest issue is drilling for the tiny screws so close to the edge. Maybe friction fit? Just looking for advice from my fellow woodworkers. Thanks for having me and for any tips.
James

[Lisa Starr]

Do you have access to a 3D printer? From your description, that would be my first choice. My router insert is a different brand, but has a lip on the inserts so that it sits flush with the table, but it thicker in the middle. Could you consider using the hardboard since it is the right thickness and adding a layer to the underside that would allow friction to hold it in place?

A picture or two of the table opening would make it much easier to provide answers.

[roger wiegand]

I've been having great success with a company that's called sendcutsend.com (weird name, I know) who does laser and other cutting and bending of metal for extremely reasonable prices for single pieces. They could make you such a thing from steel or brass if you can send them a drawing.

[Tom Bussey]

You can make it out of about anything. Anything will be strong enough. The table top takes the downward force what ever it is. I know that all the inserts either get locked down somehow of screwed into position but the insert rings are nested in the pocket and can't come out unless taken out. All they are meant for is to open or close the area around the cutter. It just keeps fingers out of an open area.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I would go with 1/4" tempered hardboard. Cut circle, route a lip and then bore out needed hole sizes. You could do the same with 1/4" Baltic birch, or polycarbonate. Avoid acrylic, as it cracks easily. Some HDPE / poly from a cheap cutting board from the Dollar Tree would also work. It will take you longer to set up circle jig to exact size than anything else.. You could make a master circle template out of 1/2" MDF, then rough saw out blanks on band saw, attack to MDF templatewith double stick tape. Using flush trim bit in router table, route to exact size. Cut lip while insert is still attached to MDF. Because you will already have a center hole in MDF from circle jig, attach a handle to hold it.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I use aluminum plate for bandsaw throat plates and it would also work for a router table insert, I think. It's easy to cut and sand with woodworking tools, and quite durable. You can get pieces on eBay pretty cheaply. I use 6061.

[Jim McLeod]

Thanks for the replies. Have some ideas to kick around. Much appreciated

[Bruce Page]

Jim, tempered hardboard or Lexan would both be strong enough, IMO. If you have one ring with the three holes you should be able to use it to match drill the new rings. I made a set for my Benchdog lift using Lexan.

[Earl McLain]

I may have a set of those rings (and the router plate). Let me see what i can find--may take a day or so, as i put a top over that router table for my grinder & lathe tools. If i didn't take the insert out of the table before i put the topper on....it may be a project to get to it!!

[Rich Engelhardt]

I've been looking at this stuff:
https://www.freemansupply.com/products/machinable-wax

For making ZCIs for my table saw.

My Woodpeckers router plate has a full assortment that I paid for when I bought the plate. The JessEm Route -R- Lift II ai bought came with a couple and I have been debating over buying a full set or trying to make some myself.

[Jim McLeod]

I may have a set of those rings (and the router plate). Let me see what i can find--may take a day or so, as i put a top over that router table for my grinder & lathe tools. If i didn't take the insert out of the table before i put the topper on....it may be a project to get to it!!
Thanks Earl. Appreciate it

[Earl McLain]

Hey Jim--ran out of Monday before i ran out of stuff to do!
Here's a few pics of what i was thinking of. It is an insert for an old Bench Dog router plate. I also found an unused router plate in box...given your measurement, this may be the router plate you have, pic of that box attached as well. When you look at my insert, the brass insert is part of a Whiteside set of inserts--1/4" to 1", in 1/8" increments. Whiteside link to kit here 9510 - Whiteside Machine Company (whitesiderouterbits.com) (https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/brass-plate-reducers/products/9510).

Re-reading your original post, it sounds like you may have the ring & PC style adapter (the aluminum part in the center), but don't have the insert rings to match. I've got two sets of the inserts--seems like the second set came with a used router buy. I'd be willing to sell one of those sets of brass rings if that's what you need. Hope this helps.
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[Jim McLeod]

516831Thanks so much for the effort earl but apparently I am not set up to view pictures. But I can post one. So hear is a pic of my plate with the one an only insert I have. I know its not a real fancy router setup but it suits my needs

[Earl McLain]

Yeah Jim, gotta be a "contributor" to view pictures. Minimum donation of $6/year gets you pictures and private messages. I'll try to e-mail the pictures to. If that recess in the middle of your insert is 1 1/4", the Whiteside Inserts i linked in post 12 would work and give you 1/4-1" by 1/8" increments. What is the total width of that insert plate? At about 4 3/16" i've got one that has no center hole that can be cut for a custom size.

[Jim McLeod]

3 3/4 so I'm guessing not what you have