Best Drill Bits?

[Carroll Courtney]

Reading post about drill bit sharpeners, I started thinking about the few drill bit sets that I have that are missing few drill bits. Originally I would run down to local Ace buy drill bit. But I’m older, I dislike crowds and traffic, hate setting in long line at cash register and at dang red light where individuals trying sell me flowers or trinkets. With me getting off subject for minute I like to know what is a good brand of drill bits to buy for replacement? I’m just every day Joe the homeowner that will drill through mild steel from 16ga up maybe 1/2 when making moble base for bandsaws etc. I know need 1/8 and up but as you know some sizes get used lot while others will get used very little. Even if 1/8 cost say 5.00 if it’s worth it I’m in, anything keep me out of massive crowds

[David M Peters]

I don't know if they're the "best" but I've been happy with Triumph drill bits, available from Lee Valley (https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/100085-replacement-drill-bits-for-triumph-hss-twist-drill-sets). I got a few of the hard-to-sharpen smaller sizes.

[Dave Sabo]

For drilling metal you want cobalt bits.

This test from a month ago suggests Bosch’s set is the best value:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p94UbNphysY

[George Yetka]

Buying individuals, at least in the big box stores is not cost effective. If you go looking for a 3/8" you can get a set of 29 for 3x the price of the 1 bit especially if you buy around black friday.

I built a cabinet for under/over the foot of my drill press and made a few drawers. One of the drawers has slots for 5-10 twist/brad bits each in 1/64 increments. After 10 years of field work and personal drill bit sets I emptied 6-7 sets into this drawer

[Frederick Skelly]

I have a set of Norseman that I like very much.

[Rob Luter]

For twist drills, I have a mix of TiN coated bits from the big box store and HSS versions from the industrial supply. The latter is what's used in the tool room/die shop at work. I use these on metal and for rough work in wood.

For precise holes in wood, I use brad point bits from Lee Valley. I bought a whole kit a few years ago. A little pricey, but they are exceptional.

516469

[Richard Coers]

What kind of drill bits to drill what kind of material? Based on the limited amount of information, your question will solicit a lot of guessing what you really want. Every company in the world will ship to your home, and Ace will have a guy deliver right to your front door.

[Bill Dufour]

I have a few parabolic drill bits that have impressed me. I think any maker that goes to the trouble of making parabolic drills knows what they are doing. They are supposed to be sharpened different.
Bill D

[Michael Schuch]

I buy 10 packs of drill bits in common sizes that get used a lot (1/8, 1/4, 5/16, etc.). I really like these Cobalt bits, especially when it comes to drilling steel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SWNM5F2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[Bill Dufour]

I have an adapter so I can use threaded drills in a regular chuck not just a countersink cage or pancake drill. For drilling small holes under one inch deep or so it works great. I find no one makes low quality threaded drills. There is just no market for cheap ones that dull quickly.
Resharps get sold on the bay by the pound.
Bill D

[Andrew Seemann]

Norseman by Viking are by far the best that I have used, and they are not really expensive for what you get if you shop around. Heck, the side flutes on them are sharper than the tips of most drills.

There was a local industrial supply place that sold them in bulk for less than the imported bits at the big box stores. I bought something like a dozen of each size from 1/16" to around 1/4 inch and I haven't gone through a quarter of them. Unfortunately they shut down a few years back, but I did pick up a 105 bit set of fractional, letter and number for cost when they were closing up.

[Alex Shanku]

Chicago Latrobe and Drill Hog make up most of my metal and wood shop drills.

[Mike Henderson]

I have a set of Norseman that I like very much.

Me too.

Mike

[Tom M King]

My twist drill indexes started out full of Hanson bits 51 years ago, but they've all been replaced some many different times that I doubt there are many Hansons left in them now. I do have a bunch of the little paper envelopes of multiples of the very small ones left with some in them. I have no idea what's best. I just replace them when needed with what turns up when I look.

[Jamie Buxton]

I have a Norseman set, based on recommendations on this forum. They’re okay, they have one feature that makes me a little nuts. For bits 3/16” and larger, the shank is not round. Norseman grinds three flats on the shank so that the usual 3-jaw chuck can grip the shank tightly. However, when I put a bit in the drill, it is just as likely to grip the round part of the shank as it is to grab the flats. If it grabs the round part, a little drilling usually dislodges the bit, and it usually winds up on the floor. Grrr.

[Patty Hann]

Fuller Brand (Brad points) made in US

https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TD

[Mike Cutler]

WL Fuller in Rhode Island.
It's what they make, and they sell direct to the public.
They have the most comprehensive line of drill bits you will find. If you need it, or can think of it, they've probably already made it.

https://www.wlfuller.com

[Tom M King]

Many thanks for that Fuller link!! I have this set that must be 45 years old and still fine. I'll be spending some money with them again.

https://www.amazon.com/Countersinks-Taper-Point-Drills-Block/dp/B001D1JWGI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=10390001t&m=A1BJ2POA1VRGBO&qid=1687272829&s=merchant-items&sr=1-1

[Mike O'Keefe]

Fuller is number 1 in my book followed by Viking. Mike O'Keefe

[Mike Cutler]

Many thanks for that Fuller link!! I have this set that must be 45 years old and still fine. I'll be spending some money with them again.

https://www.amazon.com/Countersinks-Taper-Point-Drills-Block/dp/B001D1JWGI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=10390001t&m=A1BJ2POA1VRGBO&qid=1687272829&s=merchant-items&sr=1-1

Tom

They make some nice stuff, and they're very nice people.

[Jerome Stanek]

I went to a Black and decker Dewalt outlet store and bought hundreds of the sizes I use most often. I ended up with a $75 bill for maybe 250 bits. That was back in 95 and I still have some. I used those bits every day when I was working.

[Patty Hann]

I bought one of those kits of drill bits from woodcraft when it was half price around Christmas (a few years before I bought the Fuller set) .
Sizes range from 1/16 up to (IIRC) 5/16 with a mix of Brad points and regular twist bits.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-combo-brad-point-and-twist-drill-bit-set-100-piece

I found most of the real small bits were never quite straight.
I still use the set for non precision drilling, and the Fuller bits when I want round hole.

[Dave Sabo]

Interesting how many guys have chimed in with “their favorite” -or- what they use but almost no one has said why they think theirs the “BEST” or mention switching from another brand because of non or lackluster performance.

From this small sample , it would appear that pretty much everyone makes a good bit.

[Patty Hann]

Interesting how many guys have chimed in with “their favorite” -or- what they use but almost no one has said why they think theirs the “BEST” or mention switching from another brand because of non or lackluster performance.

From this small sample , it would appear that pretty much everyone makes a good bit.

Well, I got the "cheapo" 100 piece set first from Woodcraft (see post above), and the smaller bits weren't straight (most weren't, a few were) so I went to the Fuller set.
And the Fullers are straight.
So I guess that should tell you why I think the Fuller bits are " the best", 'cause they're certainly better than the [smaller] Asian bits in the Woodcraft set.

[mike stenson]

Interesting how many guys have chimed in with “their favorite” -or- what they use but almost no one has said why they think theirs the “BEST” or mention switching from another brand because of non or lackluster performance.

From this small sample , it would appear that pretty much everyone makes a good bit.

The best I've used are fuller and viking. What's the best I haven't used? How would I know?

[Andrew Seemann]

I guess I have used a lot over the years: Chicago Latrobe, Hanson, Cleveland, Big box (I lump all of them together, Millwakee, B&D, DeWalt etc, they all seem about the same to me), Vermont American, various eras of Craftsman, Morse, Union, a lot of generic imported sets, and more new and old brands I don't remember. The older USA-made, industrial-quality brands all were good. The main differences were the type of drill and what application it was specifically intended for. Sadly, a lot of those old American companies are either gone or exist only in name only.

I have a few specific preferences for the Norseman. The sides flutes are very sharp, making things like elongated holes much easier. You do have to be careful about cutting yourself though. They also have a slightly faster spiral than most bits, which I like for chip clearance in most materials. They are relatively easy to get and reasonably priced for the quality. They are also made locally in St. Paul:)

I don't know that I have used Fuller, if I did I wasn't aware. I generally don't look at the brand of the bit when grabbing one out of the drawer or set, and I have a lot of mixed sets in addition to my "good" Norsemans (Norsemen?).

[Jimmy Harris]

I just tend to buy whatever brand they have at the store when it comes to twist bits. DeWalt, Milwaukee, Ryobi, Craftsman, Irwin, whatever. I've never felt one brand was significantly better than any other, so long as you stayed away from the no-name brands and Harbor Freight. And even those can be okay if you don't expect them to last long. I tend to focus more on the metal they're made out of. Choose the right metal for the job. I'd pick cobalt bits for drilling through metal. Twist bits are throw-away bits to me, so I'd rather have a bunch than spend a bunch on one.

I don't get brand loyal and start "investing" in bits until you get into Forstner, auger, or brad point bits. I find a much bigger difference between brands with these bits.

[Derek Cohen]

Reading post about drill bit sharpeners, I started thinking about the few drill bit sets that I have that are missing few drill bits. Originally I would run down to local Ace buy drill bit. But I’m older, I dislike crowds and traffic, hate setting in long line at cash register and at dang red light where individuals trying sell me flowers or trinkets. With me getting off subject for minute I like to know what is a good brand of drill bits to buy for replacement? I’m just every day Joe the homeowner that will drill through mild steel from 16ga up maybe 1/2 when making moble base for bandsaws etc. I know need 1/8 and up but as you know some sizes get used lot while others will get used very little. Even if 1/8 cost say 5.00 if it’s worth it I’m in, anything keep me out of massive crowds

Hi Carroll

While I could mention manufacturers of twist bits I use (however, they are local and not much use to you), in my opinion it is of less relevance than the ability to sharpen them when they dull. I know of many who consider drill bits to be consumables, and then search out bits which hold an edge as long as possible. This is unnecessary if you have the mental set that they will need to be sharpened, expect to do this, and have the knowledge to proceed automatically.

The allied factor is correct speed when drilling. Edge life is greatly prolonged if you avoid a higher-than-necessary speed. This is especially so when drilling metal. I am fortunate to have owned a Voyager drill press (with the ability to dial in the ideal speed) over the past 5 years, and this has driven home this factor.

Sharpening twist bits is pretty straight-forward by hand, once learned, or a Drill Doctor is probably the supreme machine (and relatively inexpensive).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rich Engelhardt]

I guess I'm a real bottom feeder when it comes to drill bits.
I buy 10 packs of 1/8" from Harbor Freight when they go on sale.

It can be considered an upgrade of sorts though. There once was a time when I only had .22, .38, .44 and 12 ga sizes. ;)

[Andrew Seemann]

I do agree with sharpening bits by hand. It seems like an intimidating and difficult thing, but once you get the hang of it, it is really, really easy. Easier than sharpening a scraper. Easy enough that I haven't gotten around to learning to use the Drill Doctor I inherited 8 years ago. I remember using it with my dad when he first got it. My memory was if you did a whole set of badly worn bits, it might have been a little faster, but for a bit here and there doing it by hand on a grinder was quicker. The other thing is that he somehow managed to sharpen a bunch of bits left handed. I had to watch out for those for a few years:)

[Derek Cohen]

Jig for training the hand to sharpen twist drill bits

There are two important criteria to watch out for when sharpening twist bits:

1. Maintain a constant, symmetrical angle that meets in the centre, such that the cutting angles are identical .... 118 degrees is the typical included angle for wood, and this is 59 degrees each side (135 degrees for steel). Meeting in the centre adds balance to the cutting action. Too sharp an angle will not cut as the sides may just rub against the material.

2. The bevel requires a relief angle, that is, there is a higher bevel angle behind the cutting edge (the heel of the bevel). Without this, the cutting edge cannot penetrate the material (as above, will just rub against the wood). To do this you will progressively raise the bit on the grinder wheel ... cutting a slight arc (instead of a single flat).

While all this sounds complicated when laid out like this, in practice it is a simple sweeping motion of the bit on the face of a grinder wheel along with a rotation of the bit on the face.

Here is a short video by Mathias Wandel, who uses the same method as I ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkDe8IatSw0&ab_channel=MatthiasWandel


To aid those starting out to maintain the angle and facilitation the sweep, I came up with this little jig ...

https://i.postimg.cc/wxbHrjyX/2.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

The fence is set at 59 degrees. There is no specific diameter required for the dowel - just large enough to make rotation easy.

https://i.postimg.cc/Gh8rnnGZ/3.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

The method is simply to push the bit into the wheel, create the flat to the centre of the cutter, and then slide the bit up the wheel (lowering the end of the bit) while using the dowel as a pivot and the fence as a guide ...

https://i.postimg.cc/FsMv9Cx1/4.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

After some practice runs, you should be ready to do this freehand using a finger as a rest.

Should take under a minute in all.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Ray Selinger]

On a metal working forum this question came up. One reply mentioned no matter the brand they were all likely made in the same factory in Brazil. Drill bits are small potatoes, not worth the bother. We would go through a fair number of drills at work. The purchasing agent thought he would get smart and buy imported ones. I would simply grab a handful. It would take that many. Small bits are tossed, large ones I freehand sharpened. We went back to the Cleveland brand. A good cobalt drill like the Butterfields, will last about 20x longer then say even the Cleveland ones. They were that much better !

For wood, a good brad point like the Fullers will out last you, even if you are in your 20s. But different types have their own uses, even old fashioned spade bits, if you can spin them fast enough.

[Patty Hann]

On a metal working forum this question came up. One reply mentioned no matter the brand they were all likely made in the same factory in Brazil. Drill bits are small potatoes, not worth the bother. We would go through a fair number of drills at work. The purchasing agent thought he would get smart and buy imported ones. I would simply grab a handful. It would take that many. Small bits are tossed, large ones I freehand sharpened. We went back to the Cleveland brand. A good cobalt drill like the Butterfields, will last about 20x longer then say even the Cleveland ones. They were that much better !

For wood, a good brad point like the Fullers will out last you, even if you are in your 20s. But different types have their own uses, even old fashioned spade bits, if you can spin them fast enough.

Some of the OSG brand are still made in Japan. Maybe it's "lower" line is made in Brazil.
Definitely a price difference between the two lines.

[Michael Burnside]

The best I've used are fuller and viking. What's the best I haven't used? How would I know?

I have a set of Fisch double-flute bradpoint for woodworking. I’m with you, like them a lot. Best? I don’t know but they make a nice clean hole and are straight.

[Carroll Courtney]

First, thanks Derek for info and pics.
Thanks for all responses, lot of good info here for all who are tired of cheap drill bits. I have couple sets of drill bits that I had purchase years ago in metal containers. I think they came from Sears maybe in 70’s. Over time the smaller ones break and bigger ones just become dull. I want to replace one’s missing with good ones. Looks like have few choices, so going to go with ones made here in US. SMC has come through, thanks

[mike stenson]

First, thanks Derek for info and pics.
Thanks for all responses, lot of good info here for all who are tired of cheap drill bits. I have couple sets of drill bits that I had purchase years ago in metal containers. I think they came from Sears maybe in 70’s. Over time the smaller ones break and bigger ones just become dull. I want to replace one’s missing with good ones. Looks like have few choices, so going to go with ones made here in US. SMC has come through, thanks

Those are probably worth sharpening ;)