table saw outfeed table

[Justin Rapp]

I have been living with outfeed roller stands for years and just tired of dealing with them for every-day use. I am finally going to just build a folding outfeed table and undecided on the top surface:

Choice 1: melamine covered particle board available at the lumber yard
Choice 2: Laminate (formica) glued down to MDF or plywood. My thought is MDF due to it's know flatness.

I am leaning towards choice 2, even though cost is more. If you have used either of these surfaces for your outfeed table, please give me your pros and cons. I am not set on these two, so any suggestions for additional surfaces, and why would be appreciated.

[Steve Engelschall]

I favor Choice 2 (Laminate over MDF). That's what I did. I felt plywood might warp/twist a bit over time. And I think melamine, while nice and slippery, gets chips and nicks too easily since it is paper-thin. You can literally pick the melamine off at an edge with your fingernail.

I sandwiched 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF and covered it on all sides/edges with laminate. It's very heavy, and if I had it to do over again I might consider using a single piece of 3/4" MDF. It's a tradeoff between rigidity and weight. If your outfeed table is perhaps 2 feet deep, a double layer of MDF is OK. But if it's 3 or 4 feet deep, it gets really heavy.

[Justin Rapp]

I favor Choice 2 (Laminate over MDF). That's what I did. I felt plywood might warp/twist a bit over time. And I think melamine, while nice and slippery, gets chips and nicks too easily since it is paper-thin. You can literally pick the melamine off at an edge with your fingernail.

I sandwiched 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF and covered it on all sides/edges with laminate. It's very heavy, and if I had it to do over again I might consider using a single piece of 3/4" MDF. It's a tradeoff between rigidity and weight. If your outfeed table is perhaps 2 feet deep, a double layer of MDF is OK. But if it's 3 or 4 feet deep, it gets really heavy.

Steve - thanks for the feedback. I was thinking a single layer to help reduce weight since I plan to put a 1.5" hardwood border all the way around, it will help keep the mdf more rigid.

[Jim Becker]

Back when I had a cabinet saw and made a folding outfeed table setup for it (even offered plans way back then for it), I chose to cover it with plastic laminate. The stuff is slick, looks nice and quite durable. And since surfaces like that quite often get used for things like assembly from time to time, the plastic laminate releases dried glue pretty easily, too. While you could choose melamine, it's not as durable as plastic laminate for sure.

[mike stenson]

I've had both melamine and laminate covered out feed tables. Both worked great. I'm not convinced you need a dead flat out feed table (for that matter I don't think you need a torsion box for an assembly table). Now it's just mdf over a plywood frame, but it's never used for assembly.

[Patrick Varley]

I used tempered hardboard glued over a double layer of MDF. Only did that because it was cheaper than buying a piece of laminate. Works great. I wax it occasionally and it stays slick. If I had the laminate laying around, I would have used that.

[jack duren]

I’ve had laminate, melamine and 1/4 masonite..

[William Hodge]

I use 5/4 eastern white pine for an outfeed table.

The friction coefficient of wood on wood is low enough that I am able to slide wood over wood. When the surface gets too beat up, I unscrew the wood and run it through the beater planer for a fresh look. Making the outfeed table a little lower then the saw table works.

Being wood, not plastic, I can reuse the top, and eventually it will be turned into heat in the house.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

My outfeed table top is double 3/4" plywood glued and screwed with plastic laminate on top. Love it! Glue drips clean easily. It's white so periodically I may sketch something out on it.

[Lee Schierer]

I used regular indoor 3/4" plywood sanded one side for my out feed table. I added some ribs underneath to help keep it flat. I finished the top with several coats of oil based polyurethane. It is more than 15 years old and shows little signs of wear.

[jack duren]

I w hold go to google images or Pinterest and look at tye 100’s of options…

[Rod Sheridan]

When I owned a cabinet saw I used a plywood ladder frame with 5/8” white melamine, I see that saw every year or two and the outfeed table is still fine.

Now that I have a format saw I use either a 400mm clip on extension or an 800mm clip on extension with leg when required.

516442

Regards, Rod

[Doug Garson]

If your on a budget, pick up a used section of countertop from Habitat for Humanity's Restore. One from a kitchen island works best since there's no backsplash to remove. My outfeed/assembly table top is an old kitchen island countertop which we pulled out when we renovated our kitchen.

[Kent A Bathurst]

.........3/4" plywood sanded one side ........ ribs underneath to help keep it flat.......oil based polyurethane..

Yes to #1
Yes to #2
Nah to fancy finish. Wax it - first time, maybe twice if it is absorbed. I am hopeful that you routinely wax the primary saw table, so simply don't stop at the edge of the cast iron, and you'll be fine.

[Warren Lake]

two sheets of ply glued and screwed.

Doesnt matter what it is, what matters is you have one,. There are many you tubes of wood starting to falling off the saw and guy reaching to grab it before it falls on the floor.

[jack duren]

My table is 48” deep. This allows just over half of an 8’ material to rest before I grab it.

I started with an 8’ extension, but that was too long for my shop and I reduced it..

[Lee Schierer]

Yes to #1
Yes to #2
Nah to fancy finish. Wax it - first time, maybe twice if it is absorbed. I am hopeful that you routinely wax the primary saw table, so simply don't stop at the edge of the cast iron, and you'll be fine.

In fact, I just waxed my saw, jointer and band saw tables on Friday. I still have a bit of my Johnson paste wax.

[Rick Potter]

I have both now. Melamine will scratch through while Formica won't.

Cheap idea..go to a thrift store and get an old desk or table with a Formica top, and cut it up for outfeed tables. I had my dad's original router table made from a Formica sink cutout for years.

[Tony Joyce]

On my main table saw I used a solid core door(1-3/4"X3'X6'8") covered with plastic laminate. 20 years at least going strong and flat.
Wipe it with Amour-All occasionally as it doubles as a sorting and glue up table.

[Bruce Page]

I made my folding outfeed table using borg ¾ melamine covered particle board 20 years ago. I am not a heavy user, but it has stood up well.

[Alan Lightstone]

I built laminate over plywood. Has worked great. Always worry about MDF in Florida with humidity, even though workshop is climate controlled.

[Andrew Hughes]

I would like to share my tablesaws outfeed . It’s a second saw top. I use the throat plate for the router when needed.
The tablesaw lives at the back of the shop where fans pull sawdust into a never ending pile. My saw might be old but it’s a accurate ripper very quite too.
Good Luck

[Cameron Wood]

I would like to share my tablesaws outfeed . It’s a second saw. top I use the throat plate for the router when needed.
The tablesaw lives at the back of the shop where fans pull sawdust into a never end pile. My saw might be old but it’s a accurate ripper very quite too.
Good Luck



Nice......

[Brian Tymchak]

See if you can find microdot laminate. Supposed to be lower friction. I haven't used it personally but I've read a few good comments about it. I think HD carries it, or used to.

[Kent A Bathurst]

In fact, I just waxed my saw, jointer and band saw tables on Friday. I still have a bit of my Johnson paste wax.

First of the month, eh? You're a guiding beacon to us all, Lee.

What are your plans post-JPW?

[Justin Rapp]

See if you can find microdot laminate. Supposed to be lower friction. I haven't used it personally but I've read a few good comments about it. I think HD carries it, or used to.

I found it, but at another supply and they are asking a fortune for it. It also says it's rated for vertical surfaces and therefor a thinner material.

[Justin Rapp]

I built laminate over plywood. Has worked great. Always worry about MDF in Florida with humidity, even though workshop is climate controlled.

So far i haven't had an issue with MFD, even in hot muggy summer as my basement is always cool and dry.

[Lee Schierer]

First of the month, eh? You're a guiding beacon to us all, Lee.

What are your plans post-JPW?

I have several dozen more wax jobs from the existing can of JPW and a partial can of Butcher's Wax that I think will do the job.

[mike stenson]

Really, any wax that doesn't contain silicon will work. I've been using trewax for years.

[Michael Schuch]

40 years ago I bought some 30" x 34" cabinet doors made out of 1" plywood. I bought 50 of these blems for something like $2 each with edging already applied. One of them has made a great outfeed table for my cabinet saw. I have never found it to have too much friction. I think adding Formica or other laminate is overkill, it is an outfeed table.

[jack duren]

I’m a heavy user on table saw. I have to have a 4’x64” on my saw. It doesn’t matter to me if it’s PB, laminate, MDO or MDF. Use a door or cover with Masonite, doesn’t matter as long as you keep it waxed..like Trewax, good, I like Johnson’s. Just wax it. Make a outfeed table to what you want.

[Warren Lake]

I just eat spinach.

[Andrew Seemann]

Here is a pic of mine (Wife is making year end awards for the wrestling team on it currently).

It does 4x duty as an outfield table for the table saw, outfield for the drum sander, storage, and is my main assembly and drafting table. I also used it as a mobile scaffold when I put the lights and wiring on the ceiling.

I used laminate on the top for ease of cleaning glue and finish slops. It does have a torsion top made of two sheets of particle board on a grid of Doug Fir. Having done a fair amount of formica work, laminate seems to work best with particle board of all things. Not sure why, I think there is something about the surface that the adhesive seems to like. And as long as you keep actual water away it doesn't seem to have issues in service with expansion and contraction. I put 3 coats of orange shellac, wax and all, on the underside to seal from vapor and balance out the impermeable laminate.



516480

[Bob Jones 5443]

I suppose my method is an outlier. I have four 1x10 pine boards, about 36” long. To each, I attached a 1” pine strip along one end, as a hook. To the other I hinged two little spindly 34” 1x3s. The hook fits between the fence rail and the extension table rail. On the rear table rail I clamped 10” long pine L brackets; the hook fits in there, too. I hang the assemblies on my French cleat wall, two steps from the saw.

When I want to rip a long piece, I get 2, or 3, or 4 supports from the wall, hook them onto the saw, and drop the legs. I can rip a full 4x8 sheet of 3/4” plywood. The supports get the job done in my hobby shop, and take up nearly no space when not in use.

Many years ago I lightly sanded and waxed the boards, maybe one or twice.

Simple, cheap, sturdy enough, clever.

Fine Woodworking Table Saw Methods of Work, ca. 1995.

[Cameron Wood]

Here is a pic of mine (Wife is making year end awards for the wrestling team on it currently).

It does 4x duty as an outfield table for the table saw, outfield for the drum sander, storage, and is my main assembly and drafting table. I also used it as a mobile scaffold when I put the lights and wiring on the ceiling.

I used laminate on the top for ease of cleaning glue and finish slops. It does have a torsion top made of two sheets of particle board on a grid of Doug Fir. Having done a fair amount of formica work, laminate seems to work best with particle board of all things. Not sure why, I think there is something about the surface that the adhesive seems to like. And as long as you keep actual water away it doesn't seem to have issues in service with expansion and contraction. I put 3 coats of orange shellac, wax and all, on the underside to seal from vapor and balance out the impermeable laminate.



516480



That's a nice set up- multi-function.

[Warren Lake]

two generals, this one the ripping, the other general cross cut now the excalibur sliders are off it. The SCM slider has just simple cut down stand from the last owner. This two sheets of ply left over from a job glued and screwed sitting on saw horses. I welded adjustable legs 20 years go, still sitting. Its no more than support for the material and its all I need. Works 1000 times better than net people who play catch.


516492

[Derek Cohen]

I have taken a different approach. When my Hammer K3 slider is used in tablesaw mode - using the rip fence - my MFT doubles as an outfeed table ...

https://i.postimg.cc/QtwYD2ck/outfeed.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Warren Lake]

this was on the side bar so gave it a look. He glues and screws two sheets which is fine. He should be standing on the material as he does it and not screw from the outsides in. He uses laminate and contact but id change out the 2 x 2 for dowels, more chance some material comes off edges and even one tiny splinter his way, if so will leave a bump later.

he shows ripping material and it falling off with no outfeed, more like he flings it flings it off.

an outfeed table is a safety device. Just can see those type of push things. Irrelevant but simple ones we have keep you further away.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gMUP2hP7O8

[Justin Rapp]

Thanks for all the responses. I ordered a sheet of black Formica. My choice was set when I decided to match the black of the extension table of my saw and finding black melamine around here is not easy. Plus the durability of the Formica. I know how easy melamine chips off based based on prior use. It seems some folks had good luck using plywood, and I have some sanded ply in my shop already so I will use it. It's a lighter than MDF so that is a bonus. I will put a hardwood frame around it and some ribs under to help keep it flat.

[Jim Becker]

If you apply the solid wood edging first, you'll be able to lay down the laminate and then trim it to the edge, keeping a contiguous surface that will never "catch" something. A slight bevel on the laminate with an appropriate piece of router tooling when you trim it will remove the sharp edge and reduce the risk of damage to that edge. An applied wood border that surrounds the laminate can move a hair up and down seasonally, so by covering it with the laminate, you still get a "pretty" table border but eliminate the chance of it "catching" something in the future.

[William Young]

Perhaps 10 years ago, I applied plastic laminate to a used solid core door, put some legs on it and attached it to the table saw as both outfeed table and assembly table. It is now nicked, scratched, and stained, but after about 10 years of use, It is still going strong. If I were doing it today, I would do it exactly the same. The solid core door is flat, rigid, and strong. It is great for clamping projects to for glue up.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

As Jim suggested, build your top and edge it first. Then adhere your laminate. Then route the laminate and edging. I used a 45* chamfer bit, chamfering both back slightly. When you lay your laminate, if you don't have a J-roller, get one and use it.

[Justin Rapp]

If you apply the solid wood edging first, you'll be able to lay down the laminate and then trim it to the edge, keeping a contiguous surface that will never "catch" something. A slight bevel on the laminate with an appropriate piece of router tooling when you trim it will remove the sharp edge and reduce the risk of damage to that edge. An applied wood border that surrounds the laminate can move a hair up and down seasonally, so by covering it with the laminate, you still get a "pretty" table border but eliminate the chance of it "catching" something in the future.

That was my plan. Laminate all the way to the edge, including the solid wood boarder. I have 3 big planks of ASH that have dried. I will pull them out tomorrow and see if any are quartersawn to help reduce movement.

[Justin Rapp]

As Jim suggested, build your top and edge it first. Then adhere your laminate. Then route the laminate and edging. I used a 45* chamfer bit, chamfering both back slightly. When you lay your laminate, if you don't have a J-roller, get one and use it.

Thanks for the extra tips. I ordered a J-roller and contact cement with the laminate. I hate not having the proper tools for the job.

[Andrew Seemann]

Apologies if you have done laminate work before, if not, warning: Unsolicited advice below:)

A glue spreader for the contact cement makes it go on much more evenly. Basically a piece of metal or plastic with v notches like used for laying tile. A place like Home Depot probably has one sized for vinyl flooring that would work. If you have a big blob of contact cement in one place it can cause the laminate to be a little high in that spot. Not a huge deal on an outfeed table, but ideally something you don't want. If the glue surface is super uneven it can interfere with the bond though.

Let the glue dry to tacky, where it won't come of the laminate if you touch your finger to it. Don't let it sit overnight if possible. If you have enough extra, practicing on scrap isn't a bad idea. FYI, laminate likes to slide under table saw fences. It also sends sharp little chips all over the place when you cut it. I've had a few imbed a little bit in my fingers. More of an annoyance than anything.

A bunch of 3/4" sticks laid across the substate (your plywood) will keep the laminate from touching prematurely. Too many sticks is better than not enough. You basically only have one shot; it is nearly impossible to remove after you get a good bond started. Make sure you have enough overlap on all edges.

Remove enough sticks in the center to touch the laminate to the substrate (make sure you don't twist it or knock it off center in the process) and either work from the center out, or start from the center and go to one side then the other. Remove enough sticks to go 6-9 inches maybe 12 at a time. Use your hand to flatten and smooth out the laminate taking care not to get any air bubbles. Work from the center out. After you get the initial bond with your hands, use the J roller starting in the middle and work your way out. Always start with the roller working away from the center; the idea is that you will be pushing any air bubbles out rather than in. After you get a good bond it is OK to just go back and forth.

After you get it all affixed, you'll want to trim the excess. The router bit will probably get full of adhesive a couple times and need to be cleaned off. If you need to touch up the edges you can use a medium to medium fine file.

This was long winded I admit, and in practice it is pretty easy to do, though some of the steps and reasons aren't always obvious. There are videos out there of varying quality. I'd recommend watching at least a few of them. Good Luck!

[Patty Hann]

I'm going to be laminating a work surface in the near future.
Thank you for taking the time to post a "helps and hints" list :).

[Justin Rapp]

Apologies if you have done laminate work before, if not, warning: Unsolicited advice below:)

A glue spreader for the contact cement makes it go on much more evenly. Basically a piece of metal or plastic with v notches like used for laying tile. A place like Home Depot probably has one sized for vinyl flooring that would work. If you have a big blob of contact cement in one place it can cause the laminate to be a little high in that spot. Not a huge deal on an outfeed table, but ideally something you don't want. If the glue surface is super uneven it can interfere with the bond though.

Let the glue dry to tacky, where it won't come of the laminate if you touch your finger to it. Don't let it sit overnight if possible. If you have enough extra, practicing on scrap isn't a bad idea. FYI, laminate likes to slide under table saw fences. It also sends sharp little chips all over the place when you cut it. I've had a few imbed a little bit in my fingers. More of an annoyance than anything.

A bunch of 3/4" sticks laid across the substate (your plywood) will keep the laminate from touching prematurely. Too many sticks is better than not enough. You basically only have one shot; it is nearly impossible to remove after you get a good bond started. Make sure you have enough overlap on all edges.

Remove enough sticks in the center to touch the laminate to the substrate (make sure you don't twist it or knock it off center in the process) and either work from the center out, or start from the center and go to one side then the other. Remove enough sticks to go 6-9 inches maybe 12 at a time. Use your hand to flatten and smooth out the laminate taking care not to get any air bubbles. Work from the center out. After you get the initial bond with your hands, use the J roller starting in the middle and work your way out. Always start with the roller working away from the center; the idea is that you will be pushing any air bubbles out rather than in. After you get a good bond it is OK to just go back and forth.

After you get it all affixed, you'll want to trim the excess. The router bit will probably get full of adhesive a couple times and need to be cleaned off. If you need to touch up the edges you can use a medium to medium fine file.

This was long winded I admit, and in practice it is pretty easy to do, though some of the steps and reasons aren't always obvious. There are videos out there of varying quality. I'd recommend watching at least a few of them. Good Luck!

This is my first time doing laminate, and these and all the other tips are great. I do have a 1/8" v-notch tile trowel that should work perfect instead of a brush of foam brush. Great idea.

[Jim Becker]

That was my plan. Laminate all the way to the edge, including the solid wood boarder. I have 3 big planks of ASH that have dried. I will pull them out tomorrow and see if any are quartersawn to help reduce movement.
Yea and this provides a nice look, too. (Important for some and not for others for sure)

[Warren Lake]

im old school, so solvent based sprayed. You can remove it anytime you want if need be

[Ken Flesher]

If your on a budget, pick up a used section of countertop from Habitat for Humanity's Restore. One from a kitchen island works best since there's no backsplash to remove. My outfeed/assembly table top is an old kitchen island countertop which we pulled out when we renovated our kitchen.

Better yet, a solid core door. I scored a brand new, unused door for my outfeed table for $10. It was cored for a lockset, but NBD. Being solid (and HEAVY), I could rout grooves for the miter slots.

[Ole Anderson]

516633I went with Formica.

[Bruce Page]

516633I went with Formica.

Ole, do you find the holes in your throat plate beneficial? That is something I have thought about adding to my plate.

[Patty Hann]

Good question (about holes in the throat plate)... I wondered the same thing.

[Justin Rapp]

Formica showed up today. The J-roller says it will arrive on Mon March 18th. Jeez. I ordered all from Home Depot and it shows it's not even shipped yet, after 3 days. Shrugs.

[jack duren]

Coming from different places..

[Justin Rapp]

Coming from different places..

Yes of course - various warehouses. But given I ordered it 3 days back and HomeDepot shows it's not even shipped yet is what bugs me out.

[Warren Lake]

you dont need it. I didnt have one for the first 20 years or more. It sticks on contact so find a way to put pressure on it. Ive seen people hammer with a block or even a sanding block with a soft side and pressure the J roll concentrates more. My office desk is towards 40 years old. It wasnt done with a J roller and its still perfect. Sure there would be other methods on the net .

[jack duren]

I would use a J roller. We don’t all have that magic touch..

[Warren Lake]

are you kidding. Geez Jack you have tons of years experience. Take something that wont damage it and a rubber mallet and tap tap tap on the right block, its the same thing, of take a sanding block and put pressure on it. Whatever. IF you want go around all the outside edges with rubber mallet and then hand pressure a block in the inside. you will zero failure from that Geez ive seen this in multiple shops.

The only neg id see is its probably not solvent and its all ive ever used it. I did 100's of pieces of laminate sometimes at a time, if one failed and then more it would have been hell.

[jack duren]

are you kidding. Geez Jack you have tons of years experience. Take something that wont damage it and a rubber mallet and tap tap tap on the right block, its the same thing, of take a sanding block and put pressure on it. Whatever. IF you want go around all the outside edges with rubber mallet and then hand pressure a block in the inside. you will zero failure from that Geez ive seen this in multiple shops.

The only neg id see is its probably not solvent and its all ive ever used it. I did 100's of pieces of laminate sometimes at a time, if one failed and then more it would have been hell.
I’m sorry, but shops use J rollers and I have a couple myself. We have all done 100’s of pieces of laminate at a time. That’s why we hire employees..

Some shops have pressure rollers..

[Warren Lake]

yes they do but to suggest you need have to have one to do the job is not accurate. There are failures from people that used J rollers. Top shops I knew used more white glue and a press.

When i need to know stuff I call pros like techs who make and sell the stuff. They have seen failures from people that use J rollers. This is an assembly table you can go around it and use a rubber mallet strikes then something for internal pressure. If someone cant do that with out having a failure there is some other issue. Or if that is not believed go to home depot and buy one.

[jack duren]

yes they do but to suggest you need have to have one to do the job is not accurate. There are failures from people that used J rollers. Top shops I knew used more white glue and a press.

When i need to know stuff I call pros like techs who make and sell the stuff. They have seen failures from people that use J rollers. This is an assembly table you can go around it and use a rubber mallet strikes then something for internal pressure. If someone cant do that with out having a failure there is some other issue. Or if that is not believed go to home depot and buy one.


If you choose not to roll it , it’s your business. Don’t try to sell me on it. I’ve been putting this crap on since the 80’s with 5 gallons of Weldwood glue and a 7” paint roller.

I feel better about rolling every piece and will continue to do so..

there is no 1st prize, 2nd or 3rd..

[Warren Lake]

its one guy doing one piece Jack and it wont fail doing what I said. He can wait for his roller its taken longer to supply this info that works than to do the job. Have a good day.

[jack duren]

its one guy doing one piece Jack and it wont fail doing what I said. He can wait for his roller its taken longer to supply this info that works than to do the job. Have a good day.



It’s going to be okay.


Calling Dr. Phil, Dr. Phil….

Glad I’m retired. Had employees with the same attitude, why? Why? Why?:rolleyes:

[Justin Rapp]

Come on folks, this sounds like a facebook woodworking group, not the Sawmill Creek gang that actually help each other.

I did finally get the j-roller shipping notice - so I suspect it will not take 10 days to get here given FedEx is the carrier. Either way, I could have done this with a kitchen dough roller also, or 10 other ways to do it, but the j-roller seems like the best method for a first-timer.

[jack duren]

Pretty easy. A you do or B you don't… there’s no C and no D for none of the above..


And your finally answer is? :D

[Jim Becker]

I should have suggested you drive over and borrow mine...it's not like it gets used more than a few times in a decade. LOL

[Ole Anderson]

Ole, do you find the holes in your throat plate beneficial? That is something I have thought about adding to my plate.
Looks kind of cool. but frankly, not sure it helps much.

[Justin Rapp]

I should have suggested you drive over and borrow mine...it's not like it gets used more than a few times in a decade. LOL

It was like $12 or something like that - and now delivery is Wed the 13th. I appreciate the offer though, and it might have triggered me to buy the lot next door :)

[Jim Becker]

it was like $12 or something like that - and now delivery is wed the 13th. I appreciate the offer though, and it might have triggered me to buy the lot next door :)
roflol!!!!!!!

[Cameron Wood]

I was thinking that too- I have one of those somewhere that hasn't been used in a decade or more.

[Gary Thinglum]

Justin, I have done many cabinet jobs over the years using Formica. Different people have mentioned “sticks” to keep the Formica from touching when applying. I found stiff cardboard works much better. I use a 1” paint brush on the narrow parts, and a 4” paint roller for the larger parts. I always applied two coats of contact cement the MDF, and one coat to the laminate. I have never had a piece of Formica come loose. Before applying the Formica to the wood, the contact cement should be dry enough to the touch (slightly sticky is fine). When it is dry and ready to put together, I lay the cardboard on the MDF covering everything except about two inches of one end. Carefully, apply the Formica on the MDF. Then I carefully start to pull the cardboard out, and at the same time I start rolling the Formica in the direction of the cardboard. When rolling it make sure you are rolling it evenly across. Keep doing this until you have the cardboard out, and the piece of Formica is completely down. If you see any “air pockets” in the Formica you can use a small rubber mallet to get them down. When you have the piece completed if you look at an angle you can see any bubbles in your job. If you make a mistake, you can remove the piece of Formica using a squirt bottle filled with lacquer thinner. Start at one end, squirt the thinner under one corner and keep lifting while applying the thinner between the wood and laminate. Then, all you have to do is reapply a single coat to both surfaces and start over. When finished make sure you roll all the edges well. Things to watch for before applying the laminate: make sure there are no heavy glue lumps, or anything which might get between them. Such as: routed piece of laminate. I always take my hand a run it over both surfaces to check.

[Patty Hann]

This is a great post. Thank you Gary :)

[jack duren]

Cardboard is kinda risky. If you have a puddle that didn’t dry as well, it could stick. Any woodworker doing one piece of laminate will probably do another. Probably better to make some wood sticks for laminate for now and further work..

[Tony Shea]

I did similar to what Derek Cohen showed. I made a large MFT that doubles as an outfeed/assembly table. I made it as a torsion box to keep it relatively flat and finished the MDF with thinned poly. The surface is very durable and resists glue very well. I also like the size for breaking down full sheets of plywood with a track saw and Dashboard's track saw brackets. These are the only 2 pictures I have and apologize for the sideways pic. I didn't want to take the time to fix it.

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[jack duren]

An out feed table doesn’t have to be perfect. I built a 2x4 frame and covered one side with MDO. I use two 2x4 saw horses. When I run my table saw it’s just below the saw surface and doesn’t restrict flow. I’ve use this same setup since 2003 and I can break it down anytime and move out the way.

[Gary Thinglum]

Cardboard is kinda risky. If you have a puddle that didn’t dry as well, it could stick. Any woodworker doing one piece of laminate will probably do another. Probably better to make some wood sticks for laminate for now and further work..
Jack, that is why you wait until the glue dries. In the hundreds of cabinet doors I have covered (both sides) I have never had a piece of cardboard stick where you couldn't pull it out.

[jack duren]

Problem is when you have 5-10 guys in the shop, one won’t wait. So if you do a lot of laminate you want to have sticks handy. Best I have used was 1/4-3/8 aluminum rods. Most shops use dowels..

[James Schmidt]

Good choice on laminate. I used melamine on my outfeed table and I am not impressed with its durability (or lack thereof). That stuff scratches so easily... When I get sufficiently tired of the melamine, I'll re-cover the table with laminate.

[Justin Rapp]

Thanks all for the tips. I will hopefully get to this soon, maybe this weekend if I can get some shop time.