Interesting video about Titebond glue

[Robert Hayward]

Good video explaining the different Titebond glues and how to use them. Really good info about removing dried glue from clamps and clothes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjew1Pa6oE4

[Warren Lake]

if believe an expert like Metz then you remove your glue sqeeze out before it hardens. He consulted to factories making pieces up to 1000 at a time. Have to try to minimize any issues at those volumes.

[Michael Burnside]

Good video, some good info in there. I’ve been using TB quick and thick on miters more and more. The mixture at the end is a cool idea.

One thing I didn’t agree with is wiping a panel glue up. I leave it alone and scrape it off after drying for a few hours, then leave the piece alone for 24 hours. Started this a few years ago at the advice of a pro and haven’t looked back

[Cameron Wood]

Some good info, but he seems very confused about the concept of PSI.

[Robert Hayward]

The mixture at the end is a cool idea.
That is a cool mixture, almost cannot wait to try it.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Great video.

[Steve Demuth]

It's an interesting video, but I find it hard to take an expert seriously on anything, when he gets something as fundamental as the difference between force and pressure, or in this case, lbs of force at the clamp faces vs pressure in PSI in the joint, so wrong. I guess the saving grace is the pressure recommendations from the glue manufacturers aren't all that important to a great joint in many cases. I've used TB III to glue up plywood from veneer and resawn thin wood many, many times, pressing the sheets in a vacuum bag - so by actual measurement, I know the clamping force in the joint is right around 12PSI. I get great joints, and nearly invisible glue lines even though that's 1/10 to 1/15 the recommended pressure from the manufacturer.

[Jim Becker]

I agree with your Steve...and using a ton of clamping pressure raises the risk substantially of causing various kinds of deflection since it's nearly impossible for a human to create exactly the same pressure on all the clamps to keep things in balance. I shoot for "decent" pressure, but not "cranked" pressure.

[Edward Weber]

I've been using a "rub joint" on my segmented turnings for almost twenty years, clamping pressure is an over rated variable. I have dozens of "cheapo" f-clamps that provide more than enough pressure to glue a simple panel.
Use something that provides enough pressure to close a joint, that can be anything from blue tape to rubber-bands to Bessey parallel clamps, that's all you need. Let it sit without movement for about 1 hour, then it can be handled in most cases. Yes it still needs a full day to completely cure.
The glue squeeze out method is right up there with testing a chisel by shaving your arm hair, means nothing. (especially when you spread glue with your finger)
You have no way of knowing how much glue should or shouldn't squeeze out.

His entire pressure testing segment was ridiculous

I'm with Michael on the let the glue set for a bit and firm up, then scrape it off.

When you wipe or wash glue off with a wet rag, many times all you're doing is thinning it so it soaks in more. Typically this area then needs more sanding. Don't make more work for yourself.

[Michael Burnside]

I've been using a "rub joint" on my segmented turnings for almost twenty years, clamping pressure is an over rated variable. I have dozens of "cheapo" f-clamps that provide more than enough pressure to glue a simple panel.
Use something that provides enough pressure to close a joint, that can be anything from blue tape to rubber-bands to Bessey parallel clamps, that's all you need. Let it sit without movement for about 1 hour, then it can be handled in most cases. Yes it still needs a full day to completely cure.
The glue squeeze out method is right up there with testing a chisel by shaving your arm hair, means nothing. (especially when you spread glue with your finger)
You have no way of knowing how much glue should or shouldn't squeeze out.

His entire pressure testing segment was ridiculous

I'm with Michael on the let the glue set for a bit and firm up, then scrape it off.

When you wipe or wash glue off with a wet rag, many times all you're doing is thinning it so it soaks in more. Typically this area then needs more sanding. Don't make more work for yourself.

Pretty much agree with just about everything Edward said. I never think about pressure, I just try to close the joint and usually that takes very little effort if I did my job during milling or cutting to final dimension. I'm sure by Bessey REVOs could crush two boards into oblivion but I've never tested it :D

[Doug Garson]

I think you should cut him some slack on the pressure vs force and pressure testing issues. There are lots of people who don't have engineering or scientific backgrounds that mix up pressure, force, mass etc. I think he was just demonstrating that even quick grip clamps can provide more force than the glue manufacturer recommends is necessary. I'm surprised no one complained that he called a parallel clamp a bar clamp and called a quick grip clamp a standard hand clamp. :eek:

[Edward Weber]

I think you should cut him some slack on the pressure vs force and pressure testing issues. There are lots of people who don't have engineering or scientific backgrounds that mix up pressure, force, mass etc. I think he was just demonstrating that even quick grip clamps can provide more force than the glue manufacturer recommends is necessary. I'm surprised no one complained that he called a parallel clamp a bar clamp and called a quick grip clamp a standard hand clamp. :eek:

I did notice his mix-up but what's the point. The pressure segment was unnecessary because he didn't actually use the quick-grip type clamps to further illustrate his point. Just a filler to show us a pressure gauge.
Pounds per square inch is the pressure the clamp can exert at that point. Again, you have no way of knowing what the pressure is in between those clamps. or along the length of that entire joint. Why did he use 3 clamps? Why not 4?. Don't half explain something.


Also I disagree with going from one end to the other when gluing in a situation like his.
Add pressure to the center first, then each end. IME, this makes it much easier to align the pieces when increasing clamp pressure to the point where the pieces no longer slide. You typically have to re check each clamp to ensure they're equal, as much as you can tell by hand strength.

[Cameron Wood]

I think you should cut him some slack on the pressure vs force and pressure testing issues. There are lots of people who don't have engineering or scientific backgrounds that mix up pressure, force, mass etc. I think he was just demonstrating that even quick grip clamps can provide more force than the glue manufacturer recommends is necessary. I'm surprised no one complained that he called a parallel clamp a bar clamp and called a quick grip clamp a standard hand clamp. :eek:

He was not, and they cannot. Those quick grip clamps packed as closely as possible would still not produce the recommended force.

[George Yetka]

He claims the point of the video were the following 5
1. What is the difference between Titebond glues?
2. What is the best way to glue up a panel?
3. How do I know if I can still use my glue?
4. Can I use Titebond glues to glue oily, resinous or acidic woods?
5. How do I remove glue residue from my clothes and tools?

He may have been off on some details but he hit all of them pretty well accept maybe 2. I try and work with the 45 degree rule in panel clamping, making sure there is a bit of overlap.

[jack duren]

I do “cranked” pressure Jim…


There is no such thing as over cranking , unless you are crushing wood..


DIYers just beginning read and follow others instructions and it becomes their belief and it’s NOT ALWAYS CORRECT….


When I build furniture pieces, I wipe the glue off with a wet rag, etc and wipe the whole piece to even it out.

[Michael Burnside]

He claims the point of the video were the following 5
1. What is the difference between Titebond glues?
2. What is the best way to glue up a panel?
3. How do I know if I can still use my glue?
4. Can I use Titebond glues to glue oily, resinous or acidic woods?
5. How do I remove glue residue from my clothes and tools?

He may have been off on some details but he hit all of them pretty well accept maybe 2. I try and work with the 45 degree rule in panel clamping, making sure there is a bit of overlap.


You’re right George, that’s why I’d didn't mention it in my post, but I do think the “pressure” segment was overdone.

[Steve Demuth]

My favorite clamps in the shop are Bessey medium duty 5.12 and 5.24 bar clamps. Bessey says they develop up to 1320 lbs of clamping force, although in my old man hands, I can only get about 1000 lbs. There are things I do where I crank them for all they are worth (doing bent lams between curved platens, e.g.), but that's generally to compensate for the reduced pressure you get at any distance from the actual clamp surfaces (all platens/cauls flex to some degree, after all). My point, that I understand Jim to be agreeing with, is that the notion that you need 150 PSI clamping pressure on a joint to get a clean bond and glue line is simply not true as a general rule. With well matched surfaces (either due to accurate machining, or because the substrates are flexible, as with veneer), far less pressure than that will get you an excellent joint.