ROS Suggestions

[Steve Goetz]

Has anyone who has upgraded from a 5" ROS to a 6" ROS regretted their decision? I'm considering the new 3M ROS with dust extractor or similar and wondering whether to upgrade to the 6" or keep with the 5" that I currently use...and have used for years. I've seen a few threads on this topic, but nothing recent. Let me know your thoughts!

-Steve

[Aaron Inami]

What exact sander do you have right now?

Last year, I did buy a 6" sander as an addition to my current 5". My 5" is a Festool ETS 125. This excels as a finish sander due to the really small 2mm sanding stroke (when used with a soft backing pad). But it takes forever to do material removal and glue line removal.

I purchased a 6" Festool ETS EC 150/5 to use as a material removal/prep sander. The larger 5mm sanding stroke works faster on material. I also use a hard backing pad to make the effect more like a "planer" to flatten material surface. A soft pad would roll over bumps and dips and would cause more sculping.

If you wanted to "replace" your existing 5", try to look for a sander that has a 3mm sanding stroke. I would say that is the best compromise between a material removal sander and a finish sander.

[Justin Rapp]

It all depends on what you want to do and if you plan to keep your existing ROS as well. If you only work on smaller projects, going to a 6" won't give you a lot of benefit. If however you are sanding large areas, like dining room table tops, a 6" will give you about 40% more overall surface area. (Area of a 5" is about 19.25 sq inches, a 6" is about 28.26 sq inches).

If you are just replacing your current 5" ROS with a higher level brand and a dust extractor, I would stick with the 5" and add a 6".

[John TenEyck]

My vote is to keep the 5" and buy a new 6". The efficiency of a 6" justifies having two. If you're looking for specific recommendations, I love my Bosch ROS65VC. Almost vibration free, good stock removal with coarse grits, and an amazing swirl free finish with higher grits, as good/better than I can achieve by hand, so much so that I never hand sand anymore on anything I can do with that sander.

John

[Jimmy Harris]

It depends on what you do.

Personally, I would stick with the 5" for a ROS. I don't pull out the ROS often, and when I do, it's never for aggressive work. So the smaller size comes in handy. And often times, the 5" discs are too big. If I need something more aggressive, I'm usually looking at a belt sander, plane/planer, or something along those lines.

Also, are the 3M sanders any good? I've only heard people complain about them.

[George Yetka]

I started with festool 5" ets ec and sold it for a mirka. My Deros was purchased with both pads. Im not sure this works in the festool line. But last week I ordered a festool 5" req to use with the edge guide. There are advantages all around. But if you only have 1 sander 6" is nice, the coverage is 50% better.

In the end it is just time savings/convenience though. If you dont do a lot of sanding staying were your at will be fine. If you do a ton or like spending money for convenience multiple sanders is your best bet.

Mirka deros 6"/5" is my primary sander. It is good for light material removal to fine sanding
RTS400 is good for small jobs in tighter places. small rotation is a finer sand
Rotex 150 is great for heavy stock removal or buffing
rotex 90 I like for a little shaping in tight curves.
ETS 125req for edge sanding with guide
Milwaukee 2531 really gets in tight spots

[Jim Becker]

When I left the world of the old PC333 5" sanders, I went to a pair of 150mm (!6") sanders. They have served me well for most projects and because I went quality, I also lost the majority of the vibration that was causing serious numbness in my hands. There have been a few times that it would have been nice to have a 125mm/~5" sander, but I've largely not missed it, with one caveat: my guitar projects. I'm seriously considering the smaller 90mm Rotex for situations like that as well as for "into the corner" detail sanding. The 150mm sanders feel good in my hand and most of them in the market from Festool, 3M, Mirka, etc, have moved to a lower profile design that is pretty darn comfortable to use.

You will not regret getting a quality extractor, either...they have nice features that really compliment sanding and other small hand-held electric tool use.

[Pat Germain]

I read and watched multiple reviews of the 3M dust extractor. Apparently, it works well, but 3M just stuck their name on another brand of extractor and jacked up the price. The general consensus is you should buy the original brand and get the same extractor for a lot less money.

[Stan Calow]

I have a 5 and a 6. I only use the 6 when I have large flat surfaces to deal with. The 5 I can use with one hand. But I am a hobbyist now doing small projects mostly.

[Roger Feeley]

My PC 333 died and I got a festool 125. A lot less vibration and I really like the instant stop. I do wish they offered a more aggressive version in 5”. It would be nice to switch back and forth.

[Justin Rapp]

My PC 333 died and I got a festool 125. A lot less vibration and I really like the instant stop. I do wish they offered a more aggressive version in 5”. It would be nice to switch back and forth.

Roger - a Festool ROTEX RO 125 would be a more aggressive 5".

[Larry Edgerton]

My vote is to keep the 5" and buy a new 6". The efficiency of a 6" justifies having two. If you're looking for specific recommendations, I love my Bosch ROS65VC. Almost vibration free, good stock removal with coarse grits, and an amazing swirl free finish with higher grits, as good/better than I can achieve by hand, so much so that I never hand sand anymore on anything I can do with that sander.

John

What John said... I loved the first one so much I bought another.

[Warren Lake]

have four generations dynas in six and a fifth five inch. sanding is done on the stroke first, do go over with a dyna and straight line hand dyna and hand go fast 90 percent of the work done fast on the stroke.

[chuck van dyck]

Love my bosch GET75, melts wood when needed in turbo mode. Decent all around sander in normal mode. Basically a rotex. I’m partial to makita sheet sanders for finish sanding.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I bought a Ridgid 6" about five years ago to scuff sand about 800 square ft of hardwood floors.
It worked great.

I had thought it would replace my aging 5" DeWalt - but - I was mistaken.

Now I have to decide if it's worth it to replace the pad on the single speed DeWalt - or - just buy a new variable speed 5".
The 6" will never (at least in my shop) replace the 5". There's just too many small sanding jobs where the 5" is perfect.

[John Kananis]

I have a few 5" ros's in the shop. A year or two ago, my favorite one met eol and I picked up a festool ets 125 (my new favorite). I don't use the larger 6 inch versions because I feel that if i need to be that aggressive, taking a hand plane to the work is faster, more accurate and less dusty but that's just me... really, it depends on your preferred method of work.

[Tom Bussey]

To answer your question I would keep what you have and just buy another sander

[Dave Sabo]

I bought a Ridgid 6" about five years ago to scuff sand about 800 square ft of hardwood floors.
It worked great.

I had thought it would replace my aging 5" DeWalt - but - I was mistaken.

Now I have to decide if it's worth it to replace the pad on the single speed DeWalt - or - just buy a new variable speed 5".
The 6" will never (at least in my shop) replace the 5". There's just too many small sanding jobs where the 5" is perfect.


While the OEM DeWalt pads are insanely expensive, I think you'll be hard pressed to find an equal or better sander for the same money.

That said, I'd get a generic replacement pad on the BigRiver for $10-$20 and get back to making dust.

[Tom Bender]

516198 516199

One has Abranet 60 grit
One has Abranet 240
These two grits handle all my power sanding needs.
It's very handy to switch back and forth in a second or two, often before one stops the other is working.

The overhead power feeds allow use in a pretty wide area, and of course they can be unplugged and used with an extension cord.

[George Yetka]

When I left the world of the old PC333 5" sanders, I went to a pair of 150mm (!6") sanders. They have served me well for most projects and because I went quality, I also lost the majority of the vibration that was causing serious numbness in my hands. There have been a few times that it would have been nice to have a 125mm/~5" sander, but I've largely not missed it, with one caveat: my guitar projects. I'm seriously considering the smaller 90mm Rotex for situations like that as well as for "into the corner" detail sanding. The 150mm sanders feel good in my hand and most of them in the market from Festool, 3M, Mirka, etc, have moved to a lower profile design that is pretty darn comfortable to use.

You will not regret getting a quality extractor, either...they have nice features that really compliment sanding and other small hand-held electric tool use.

I had my Eyes on this for some time. ended up buying one a few months back. I find that if you are using it to sand something like a face frame it is very tall in comparison to its diameter so its easy to tip. It is ideal in very tight spaces and if you are shaping tight inner radius's

[Jim Becker]

Are you speaking about the RO-90, George? It's kinda interesting that for the longest time I've been "more skeptical" of that particular sander being something that might be useful to me. A recent video by Sedge "fixed" that point of view as I learned a number of things about it that I didn't know. The fact that it can be used as an effective orbital into corners greatly raises my interest because the smaller format would normally get less use for typical projects I do. So doubling as a detail sander is a big plus.

[George Yetka]

Are you speaking about the RO-90, George? It's kinda interesting that for the longest time I've been "more skeptical" of that particular sander being something that might be useful to me. A recent video by Sedge "fixed" that point of view as I learned a number of things about it that I didn't know. The fact that it can be used as an effective orbital into corners greatly raises my interest because the smaller format would normally get less use for typical projects I do. So doubling as a detail sander is a big plus.

It also does has the delta attachment which is nice.

i still have to swing by for a visit one of these days. I can bring it.

[Prashun Patel]

Only you can determine if you will make good enough use of a different size sander to justify the investment - and the investment in a new paper supply.

I have only a 5" and have personally never considered a larger one. But that's just the way I work.

I've come to the conclusion that for "do I need another <tool>" discussions, the best advice is to buy and try. But don't buy cheap. Buy a good model. I've never regretted spending for quality. Better quality tools are more of a joy to use and easier to re-sell.