Skewed Rabbeting block plane vs full size Skew Rabbet Plane

[Will Mullendore]

I’m looking at both the Veritas options. What are the pros and cons of each? I’m making more furniture these days, but would the full size be too large for making small rabbets for boxes or drawers?

[Jim Koepke]

In my experience, it is more comfortable to use a plane sized to the work. A large plane on small pieces can be cumbersome.

jtk

[David Carroll]

+1 What Jim said,

I had a Clifton 110 (I think) that was nice for small work, but I wanted the LN large shoulder plane and I wasn't using the little Clifton much so I sold it and got the LN. I do like the LN for larger things, but it's too awkward for small things. I later got the low angle block rabbet plane from LN (not the skewed one). It's okay. to be honest for trimming small shoulders and tenons, I am apt to just grab a chisel.

DC

[Eric Brown]

The block plane is a low angle which can be useful on end grain. The rabbet plane allows you to push and take a thicker shaving. The skew acts like a lower angle plane somewhat. One of the reasons they make them in both right and left hand versions is for different grain directions. Like Jim said, it really comes down to the size of work. Get the one that matches the majority of work you hope to do.

That said, you might just skip it and make do with what you have.

[Richard Coers]

You should probably get both. They both have their advantages based on the application.

[Derek Cohen]

I’m looking at both the Veritas options. What are the pros and cons of each? I’m making more furniture these days, but would the full size be too large for making small rabbets for boxes or drawers?

Will, I have used the skew rabbet plane for narrow and shallow rebates (3mm wide and deep), but there is a better way for rebates this size. Nevertheless, this plane is one of the essential tools for furniture-sized rebates, and a skewed block plane is not an alternative. Get the skew rabbet plane.

For the small work, you could simply score with a cutting gauge, chisel out a shoulder, and use a narrow shoulder plane. I really like the Veritas Small Shoulder Plane (1/2"). This is beautifilly balanced. Or you could score the line and use a plough plane. Again, Veritas make two the ideal size, there is the #043-sized one (I have not used this as I have the original Record version), or the Small Plow Plane (such a wonderful little plough plane).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Will Mullendore]

Thanks for the input. I’ve been using a router with a homemade jig that worked well enough. I’ve enjoyed working with hand tools but the cost of one or both is a hindrance for such a specialized tool. And, like it’s been said, there’s multiple ways to do this with the tools I already have. As much as I like buying tools, I’m trying to remain as minimalistic as possible.

[steven c newman]

Usually, I just get out either the Stanley No. 78 (Wards) or the Sargent No. 79 ( Craftsman No. 3720)

Both seem to do the jobs I need them for...

I did have a wood bodied one for a while...and gave it away..

[Kent A Bathurst]

This is a bit over-the-top maybe, but my LN skew block plane gets use with a small-scale shooting board, for trimming....well.....small stuff. The size, low angle, and he skew makes it ideal for his task. Of course, that's a "side hustle", but a frequent task.

[Warren Mickley]

A moving fillister is very important for cabinet work.. A moving fillister is a rabbet plane with a fence. It is best to have a fillister with an adjustable fence and a nicker for crossgrain. Most have these features.

A skew blade is nice, but it limits you to working a rabbet in one direction. You have to be careful to plan your layout for favorable grain direction.

A skew rabbet block plane is very much less valuable.