Compressor

[jack duren]

I have to put on a new roof this spring.Considering a new compressor. Wanting electric. I just got ride of a wheel barrel compressor with a hole in it. Trying to stay under a $1000. Considered another wheel barrel as I might sell it when done , but electric.

Any suggestions?

$1000 and under only..

[Cameron Wood]

This suggests comp shingles and that you would do it yourself.

In that unwise case, whatever compressor will run one gun.

Put the money into hiring a roofing contractor, IMO.

[Michael Burnside]

Just one gun you can spend a lot less than 1K. I like California Air, particularly when used indoors:

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/california-air-tools-4610ac-ultra-quiet-oil-free-1-0-hp-4-6-gal-aluminum-twin-tank-portable-air-compressor?via=573621bd69702d0676000002%2C573621bd 69702d0676000003

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/ultra-quiet-and-oil-free-2-hp-10-gal-aluminum-tank-air-compressor-california-air-tools

[Richard Coers]

I suspect a lot of those compressors come from the same factory. For a small compressor in my shop I prefer California Air. For one roof, I would look for used.

[jack duren]

I’ve got a dual tank Bostitch, but it’s 20 years old. When In done I’ll sell the guns, shovels , compressor as a package to a home owner. If not I’ll keep the compressor and sell the rest..

Already pickup a new Bostitch nail gun fromMensrds. Found a like new Stinger cap gun., found new roofing shovels at 75% off from a closing store. All I need now is nails and safety harnesses. If my compressor quits, I’ll be forced to run out and buy something. Shingles are 4 shots each. Add it up. The compressor keeping up depends on how FAST you nail

[Rich Engelhardt]

You would be hard pressed to find a better compressor than this Ingersoll Rand for small jobs:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ingersoll-rand-2hp-hand-carry-twinstack-air-compressor-42672949

It's loud though and sort of heavy.

It's built like a tank though and will support two framing nailers and two roofing nailers due to it having a 100% duty cycle.

[jack duren]

You would be hard pressed to find a better compressor than this Ingersoll Rand for small jobs:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ingersoll-rand-2hp-hand-carry-twinstack-air-compressor-42672949

It's loud though and sort of heavy.

It's built like a tank though and will support two framing nailers and two roofing nailers due to it having a 100% duty cycle.

I’ll take a look at that. one. Something tha5 size I might just keep.

[Edward Weber]

The California air compressors might be quiet BUT that's it. They seriously lack CFM.
If all you do is use it for low CFM, intermittent use, fine, just don't try to use it for anything else.

A small pancake compressor will run an air nailer or two and can be had for pretty cheap, depending on brand and features. I have a little Bostitch pancake, 6 gal, for jobs like yours.

[Jim Becker]

Jack, when I was doing the interior fit out for my new shop building, I needed a 120v compressor to run my guns, etc., and picked up a McGraw 20 gallon unit from Harbor Frieght on sale. It performed flawlessly, has nearly zero leak down, has a reasonable noise level and now lives in the garage to use for automotive and tractor maintenance. My little Husky compressor that I traditionally have used for in-house home improvement with brad and pin nailers was not up to the job of running a framing gun nor is it good for automotive/tractor stuff, so getting the larger, but 120v unit was essential. (my big compressor that's in the shop is 240v and couldn't be used during the build) I actually used that McGraw uni when I was spraying the big garage door on the house a few months ago, too, since it was "there".

[Bruce Wrenn]

I have to put on a new roof this spring.Considering a new compressor. Wanting electric. I just got ride of a wheel barrel compressor with a hole in it. Trying to stay under a $1000. Considered another wheel barrel as I might sell it when done , but electric.

Any suggestions?

$1000 and under only..

Shame you got rid of wheel barrow style, when you have purchased just a replacement tank, and transferred working parts to it. I have a Devilbiss pancake that I'm transferring pump to set of wheel barrow style tanks. Son robbed compressor off tanks several years back to put on his wheel barrow tanks. He does servicing on heavy equipment and needed something that is portable, and I wasn't using roll around at that time. Couple years back, bought a HF coil nailer for shingles. Shot a couple boxes of nails with it, and no problems. Wish I could say the same for my Hitachi framing nailer

[Paul McGaha]

You might look at the Speedaire compressers from Graingers. I've had a 20 gallon, horizontal tank unit for over 30 years. No problems with it ever. It's quiet. Can be wired to run on 120 volt or 230 volt. if it fails I'm sure I'll go back to Graingers. Great shop air compresser. I think it's a 2 HP unit.

Good luck with it.

PHM

[Bill Dufour]

For $1,000 I would get a good used 40+ gallon, oil lube, two stage and lots of hose.
Bill D

[Richard Coers]

The California air compressors might be quiet BUT that's it. They seriously lack CFM.
If all you do is use it for low CFM, intermittent use, fine, just don't try to use it for anything else.

A small pancake compressor will run an air nailer or two and can be had for pretty cheap, depending on brand and features. I have a little Bostitch pancake, 6 gal, for jobs like yours.
California Air has about 50 models of compressors, including an Industrial Series. It's one hell of a statement that says all their compressors seriously lack CFM and all you can do with them is intermittent use. I doubt if your 6 gallon Bostitch will keep a roofing nailer going if the shingles are put down quickly. They only put out 2.6 SCFM.

[Mike Cutler]

Jack

Are you restricted to 120vac?
I've had to do some largish section of roof repairs to my house, and gagage roof through the years. I use my 5HP, 17cfm, Rolair compressor with about 200' of 3/4" hose.
Those small compressors that folks are linking to are inadequate for an entire roof. The recovery is too slow. I also have a Rolair JC-10 and it's nice for a small jobs, but not for roofing and entire house. A nailer is going to need 8-10cfm, if you want any time efficiency.
I know that Rolair and IR make "portable" wheel barrow type compressors that plug into 240. One of those would be my choice.
I

[Jerry Bruette]

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ingersoll-rand-2hp-hand-carry-twinstack-air-compressor-42672 (https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ingersoll-rand-2hp-hand-carry-twinstack-air-compressor-42672949)

This is the exact compressor I bought when I built my cabin. It handled the big Bostitch framing nailer and the roofing nailer I borrowed flawlessly.
But Rich is right, it's heavy. So I mounted it on a pail dolly I bought at Menards and now I don't carry it anywhere.

Only thing I wish was different would be the location of the gauges. I wish they were tipped up for easier viewing.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Jerry,
Yep - I have mine on a Harbor Freight furniture dolly. Beats trying to lug it from place to place.

[Edward Weber]

California Air has about 50 models of compressors, including an Industrial Series. It's one hell of a statement that says all their compressors seriously lack CFM and all you can do with them is intermittent use. I doubt if your 6 gallon Bostitch will keep a roofing nailer going if the shingles are put down quickly. They only put out 2.6 SCFM.

I knew someone would jump on me.
CA compressors do have a big selection but if you actually look at their offerings, most all, unless specified as such, have very low cfm and small tanks.

(this is just a guess)
It would seem that their philosophy is that, their units are so quiet, they can run more often without disturbing you. End result is that with the small tanks and low CFM, they have to run more often
The highest number I've seen listed for CFM is 10.6
Yes, I said I have a small Bostitch that I use for jobs like the OP has. I never said I was a professional roofer that would max out the capabilities of the unit.
I stand by my statement.
You like them, you buy them, just maybe take a look at a CFM use chart before you do.

[jack duren]

The problem with a compressor on roofing , is once you get past complicated areas, your going as fast as you can go. Let’s say a small compressor somewhat keeps up, it will run all day.


took a look at the HF compressors..

[jack duren]

Looking at one too.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjhj6HOh5qEAxWzZ0cBHbmqCBUYABALGgJxdQ&ae=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4Y-hzoeahAMVs2dHAR25qggVEAQYAyABEgJqI_D_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASJeRoBjey8h6RUP9f8UV2UyPoeg3MDN9m-bqIP1jKCQ8ekLLbdmY&sig=AOD64_0YA31h9XZBgqdW3n4iAgM18DdoXQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjciJnOh5qEAxV3m4kEHR-jCfQQ5bgDKAB6BAgJEB8&adurl=

[andrew whicker]

When I helped a friend w roofing we used a pancake plus an old propane tank modified w a hose connection as a buffer. We were 3 guys and never ran out of air.

Not that we ever reached the speed of the pros, but we were using the guns in "vegas" mode. (Pushing the tip fires the gun)

[andrew whicker]

Pancake was on ground, tank was bungied to roof.

[jack duren]

Looking at this one too..I could run an air sander on this…

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ingersoll-rand-5-hp-single-stage-twin-cylinder-pro-air-compressor-60-gal

[andrew whicker]

According the SurfPrep website, you could EXACTLY run the 3x4 square sander (16 CFM requirement). NM.. that's SCFM. At 90 PSI you only need 3 CFM.

In that case, buy me one too.




Looking at this one too..I could run an air sander on this…

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ingersoll-rand-5-hp-single-stage-twin-cylinder-pro-air-compressor-60-gal

[Richard Coers]

I knew someone would jump on me.
CA compressors do have a big selection but if you actually look at their offerings, most all, unless specified as such, have very low cfm and small tanks.



Just as I knew someone would jump on me. But if you go to the website, even the small ones have more CFM than what you suggested with that Bostich. I don't care what the rpm or tank size is in most cases, I always shop by CFM. I didn't base my first reply on model or tank size like you did, but I would never take a 5 gal compressor to a roofing fight. A short Google search says; Roofing nailer--------4.0cfm @50psi min. This model has higher CFM than required and is cheaper than TSC at $619. https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-20020-Compressor/dp/B083VNGPHV?th=1

[Frederick Skelly]

Northern Tools has free shipping on a number of smaller air compressors. Like California Compressors, they are pretty quiet.

I got this one a couple years ago and like it a lot. 8 gallon, 4cfm @90psi. https://www.northerntool.com/products/northstar-portable-electric-air-compressor-1-5-hp-8-gallon-vertical-tank-super-quiet-operation-oil-free-pump-4-cfm-90-psi-53009

[Edward Weber]

Just as I knew someone would jump on me. But if you go to the website, even the small ones have more CFM than what you suggested with that Bostich. I don't care what the rpm or tank size is in most cases, I always shop by CFM. I didn't base my first reply on model or tank size like you did, but I would never take a 5 gal compressor to a roofing fight. A short Google search says; Roofing nailer--------4.0cfm @50psi min. This model has higher CFM than required and is cheaper than TSC at $619. https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-20020-Compressor/dp/B083VNGPHV?th=1

Well, we all know google is always right :rolleyes:

Nailers do not require a continuous air supply, they are intermittent use tools. This is why they can be used with smaller tank units with low CFM ratings.

Would I suggest a pancake style compressor for a professional roofing crew, no. The unit would be cycling too much in order to keep up with demand.
Would I suggest it for a homeowner, doing some roof repair, sure. They are more than adequate to run nailers/staplers The OP only said he had to put on a new roof, that's all we know.


This is not personal
The unit you linked to provides 5.6 CFM @ 90 PSI, great, it would work well for most any roofing nailer application.
The issue is, with such low CFM, running anything that requires continuous airflow of 6 CFM or more, like drills, grinders, sprayers, impact gun, sanders, blast cabinet... and the unit will be constantly running, although quietly. Not good for an all around shop compressor IMO.
These units, as they are spec-ed, will need to run more, that's just math, not my opinion.
This is something to consider when purchasing.

[George Yetka]

I would look at hiring help for the day and in that case get 2- pancakes 2 guns and sell them when your done. I think big money goes to tools you will use continually.

[Tom M King]

I wouldn't spend $1,000 on any single stage compressor, looking at that link in an earlier post. There are always compressors on CL. I even have one on there that would be more than needed for this job for $250. Even though I don't do asphalt shingles any more, I would absolutely hire some help if I did. I always used a long hose with the compressor on the ground. When I was building new houses I had a 5hp 2-stage with 80 gallon tank in a step van and 200 feet of air hose on a reel in the back of the truck. That much air is not needed to run a roofing gun, but was great for sheathing a roof.

I certainly wouldn't want to wait on a compressor on any job.

[michael langman]

I am surprised no one mentioned the Makita Mac2400.

I have thought it a good compressor for most needs and like the fact it uses oil.

[Tom M King]

That looks like a nice little compressor and it would do the job fine. I have an old twin tank Emglo that looks very similar and will run a roofing nailer with no problem. I also agree about not using an oil less compressor for this type of job. I have one of the little oilless California Air ones for using inside houses with finish nailers and smaller, but wouldn't put it to work running a nail gun.

[Nick Crivello]

Does anybody make a cordless roofing nailer? Or do they weigh too much?

[Rich Engelhardt]

I am surprised no one mentioned the Makita Mac2400.

I have thought it a good compressor for most needs and like the fact it uses oil.That small compressor is very quiet and competes well head to head with the IR I linked to earlier - - except - -it only has a 50% duty cycle.
The IR has a 100% duty cycle.

You can plumb in a 7 or 10 gallon aux tank to the IR so you have more air and it handles it fine. I've done that in the past when I had more than 1 gun or tool hooked to it. I'd run 50' of the stiff poly hose to the aux tank and split off two 50' sections from a manifold I had on the aux tank - - or - just come off the 2nd outlet on the compressor with one gun/tool and the other outlet with the aux tank and the other gun/tool.

I do wish a lot of times I'd gone with the Makita though. My IR makes enough noise to raise the dead.

[Michael Schuch]

I have a large 2 stage compressor for the shop so I bought the smallest lightest compressor I could find with a good reputation for my house/garage. Yep, a California Air compressor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TDNKBMC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

It was more than capable of knocking out shingles on a dog house... I have never done the entire roof on a house though. For that I might hedge my bets and go a bit bigger. It is really nice to have a lite weight aluminum tank compressor for moving it around. I love how quiet it is!

P.S. A quality air chuck makes a huge difference when filling tires: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ETWXEWA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Tom M King]

That's the exact same little compressor I use inside houses, but wouldn't want to ask it to do a roofing job.

I like those digital inflators too. I changed the type of clip on chuck on it though. Didn't have the best luck with those Chinese straight ones. Changed it to a Milton.

My most recent use was air pressure testing water line additions in a rental house. It's a lot easier to solder copper that's been tested with air pressure than to put water in them as the test. This for a shower remodel in a 1974 house, so I stuck to using copper like was already everywhere else in that house. Wet spots on back of sheetrock from bubble test solution. Hopefully sideways picture doesn't matter for this.

[Mike Cutler]

Does anybody make a cordless roofing nailer? Or do they weigh too much?

Many years ago, 20+, they had nailers that worked off a butane cylinder. Haven't seen one in a long time. Haven't looked for one either.

[Tom M King]

Cordless would be way too slow for me for a roofing nailer. They're too slow for me in any configuration. I owned a cordless framing nailer for a short while.

[Mike Cutler]

Tom

Yep, speed is the key with a roofing job. You need to get off that roof as time expediently as you can. Roofing is not complicated work, but it is exacting work to do correctly. You want to do it once.
I've done roof repairs with my little JC10, but when I needed to redo the shingles over the porch, or help friends with their roofing, that was just too big a job for a small compressor. I've put my 5HP, 60 gallon, 17cfm, Rolair in the back of the truck and hauled it to friends houses, and hot rodded it into the dryer outlet. The extreme of "portable", but it works.
One of the things being lost in the discussion here is that yes, a small compressor might have the specs to minimally run the nailer, but it's not going to keep up, and the more times that compressor starts and stops, the more moisture is being brought into the gun, as the system will very quickly become saturated.
If that small compressor is running and a person pulls the trigger on the gun, you're not getting the required CFM, and nails will short shoot, and require a hammer to set them to the correct depth.
For the OP. Quincy, IR, Rolair, California Air, all make wheel barrow type compressor that will do the job. But they're all right at the price point, or slightly above, where you want to be. As long as you have a repuatable, known quality, compressor, you won't have any problems reselling it and recovering most of your money. Leave the junky ones in Harbor Freight. They're worth nothing on the resale market. Neither are those Husky's from Home Depot.

[jack duren]

I know my Bostitch is running fine, but I doubt it will handle this roof and its needs. I’m probably going to get the compress from Tractor supply. The roof will be slow , but a good little test..

[Cameron Wood]

Tom

Yep, speed is the key with a roofing job. You need to get off that roof as time expediently as you can. Roofing is not complicated work, but it is exacting work to do correctly. You want to do it once.
I've done roof repairs with my little JC10, but when I needed to redo the shingles over the porch, or help friends with their roofing, that was just too big a job for a small compressor. I've put my 5HP, 60 gallon, 17cfm, Rolair in the back of the truck and hauled it to friends houses, and hot rodded it into the dryer outlet. The extreme of "portable", but it works.
One of the things being lost in the discussion here is that yes, a small compressor might have the specs to minimally run the nailer, but it's not going to keep up, and the more times that compressor starts and stops, the more moisture is being brought into the gun, as the system will very quickly become saturated.
If that small compressor is running and a person pulls the trigger on the gun, you're not getting the required CFM, and nails will short shoot, and require a hammer to set them to the correct depth.
For the OP. Quincy, IR, Rolair, California Air, all make wheel barrow type compressor that will do the job. But they're all right at the price point, or slightly above, where you want to be. As long as you have a repuatable, known quality, compressor, you won't have any problems reselling it and recovering most of your money. Leave the junky ones in Harbor Freight. They're worth nothing on the resale market. Neither are those Husky's from Home Depot.


Could you explain this more? I would think that X amount of air has Y amount of moisture in any case.

[Tom M King]

Someone was right about the Husky's not being any good for resale. I can't give this one away. The first ad was up long enough that they took it down, and I just thought about putting it back up today because of this thread.

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/d/henrico-compressor/7716408008.html

[Mike Cutler]

Could you explain this more? I would think that X amount of air has Y amount of moisture in any case.

Cameron

I did this for a living for many years. Setup, maintain and repair pneumatic air systems in an industrial environment.
When a system is at "stasis", the amount of moisture in the system, in the form of vapor, is as low as it can be. No air is moving. Once air begins to move, what ever latent moisture is in the system will move with it. But this requires a change in temperature, or pressure, to cause the moisture to move through the system as a vapor. Moisture simply trapped in system lines does not necessarily make its way to the end device. if it has been installed properly.
The first step in moisture separation is the air receiver tank. Most folks consider this to be some type of a "reserve volume", and it is is, but it's truer purpose is to take in air, compressed airit, during which heat is generated, discharged into a larger volume, where the pressure drop will cause the moisture to come out of the vapor state and condense on the inside of the air receiver tank.
Once the air begins to "move", the moisture that condensed, does not carry through the system as a vapor until the compressor starts again, but at this point the air pressure in the receiver tank has decreased, and to a point that it can condense more air, and remove more moisture from the system, but this is a finite cycle, and if the system is continuously running, moisture, in the form of vapor, will eventually saturate the system ,and the air coming out of the hose will be saturated with moisture. Many tools can run just fine in this condition for periods of time, but eventually they will begin to have issues. It may take years for a nailer, for example, but a paint gun, or sandblasting cabinet, is going to let you know immediately that you have a problem with moisture, in the form of vapors, in the system. Tee's and elbows will all have a differential pressure across them. This change in pressure can also cause vapor to condense to moisture.
The Air receiver tank, discharge piping, condensation drip legs, automatic drain valves regulator filters and regulators with moisture traps are all forms of mechanical separation. As air moves through the system, changes in temperature and pressure will cause condensation which can be removed, But if the system becomes saturated, moisture, in the form of vapor, will make it's way through everything, to the final device. Running a small compressor continuously is going to saturate the system and moisture will carry through.
In my home air system, the first regulator is only 15' away from the receiver tank, 60 gallons, but there is 200' of tubing between the air receiver tank and the regulator. There are also 3 filters prior to the regulator. A moisture trap, a coalescing filter, and a final moisture trap in the regulator.

[Jerry Bruette]

Could you explain this more? I would think that X amount of air has Y amount of moisture in any case.

I also believe X amount of air carries Y amount of moisture. And that X amount will change with the seasons and weather.

But as Mike stated the amount of moisture making it to the end use will vary on how the system is set up. Where I used to work we had two air systems, a high pressure, 850 psi, and shop air, about 85 psi. The first stages of moisture removal were the inter cooler and the after cooler on the compressors then the refrigerated or desiccant driers that were before the receivers.

The HP air was used for pressure testing and charging fire extinguishers. The air for charging went through a refrigerated drier by the compressor and then a desiccant drier at point of use. That air had a dew point of -60F.

At point of use for the shop air we had a coalescing filter, regulator and oiler in that order. The air coming out of the compressors had water vapor and some oil mixed with the water. Whatever didn't get separated in the driers would get caught by the point of use filters. Compressor oil and water mix together and make a snotty goo that will foul all sorts of end use equipment. The oil added at point of use was for oiling the pneumatic tools, valves, cylinders etc. to keep them in a clean, lubed operating condition.

For the home hobbyist you should drain your tank regularly and use end point filters and lube you tools occasionally.

[Cameron Wood]

Cameron

I did this for a living for many years. Setup, maintain and repair pneumatic air systems in an industrial environment.
When a system is at "stasis", the amount of moisture in the system, in the form of vapor, is as low as it can be. No air is moving. Once air begins to move, what ever latent moisture is in the system will move with it. But this requires a change in temperature, or pressure, to cause the moisture to move through the system as a vapor. Moisture simply trapped in system lines does not necessarily make its way to the end device. if it has been installed properly.
The first step in moisture separation is the air receiver tank. Most folks consider this to be some type of a "reserve volume", and it is is, but it's truer purpose is to take in air, compressed airit, during which heat is generated, discharged into a larger volume, where the pressure drop will cause the moisture to come out of the vapor state and condense on the inside of the air receiver tank.
Once the air begins to "move", the moisture that condensed, does not carry through the system as a vapor until the compressor starts again, but at this point the air pressure in the receiver tank has decreased, and to a point that it can condense more air, and remove more moisture from the system, but this is a finite cycle, and if the system is continuously running, moisture, in the form of vapor, will eventually saturate the system ,and the air coming out of the hose will be saturated with moisture. Many tools can run just fine in this condition for periods of time, but eventually they will begin to have issues. It may take years for a nailer, for example, but a paint gun, or sandblasting cabinet, is going to let you know immediately that you have a problem with moisture, in the form of vapors, in the system. Tee's and elbows will all have a differential pressure across them. This change in pressure can also cause vapor to condense to moisture.
The Air receiver tank, discharge piping, condensation drip legs, automatic drain valves regulator filters and regulators with moisture traps are all forms of mechanical separation. As air moves through the system, changes in temperature and pressure will cause condensation which can be removed, But if the system becomes saturated, moisture, in the form of vapor, will make it's way through everything, to the final device. Running a small compressor continuously is going to saturate the system and moisture will carry through.
In my home air system, the first regulator is only 15' away from the receiver tank, 60 gallons, but there is 200' of tubing between the air receiver tank and the regulator. There are also 3 filters prior to the regulator. A moisture trap, a coalescing filter, and a final moisture trap in the regulator.


Thanks, that's helpful.

[Bruce Wrenn]

That's the exact same little compressor I use inside houses, but wouldn't want to ask it to do a roofing job.

I like those digital inflators too. I changed the type of clip on chuck on it though. Didn't have the best luck with those Chinese straight ones. Changed it to a Milton.

My most recent use was air pressure testing water line additions in a rental house. It's a lot easier to solder copper that's been tested with air pressure than to put water in them as the test. This for a shower remodel in a 1974 house, so I stuck to using copper like was already everywhere else in that house. Wet spots on back of sheetrock from bubble test solution. Hopefully sideways picture doesn't matter for this.

Tom, I use a coupling (same as air hose,) cut off valve, and a tee with pressure gauge and a short length of copper, which connects to existing lines with a Shark Bite connector. Connect to existing piping, connect air hose directly, cut on valve, and after pressure builds to desired level, close cut off valve. With correct adapters, also use to check gas lines

[Tom M King]

I've used that rig to check gas lines too. Normally, without an NPT adapter, it just screws onto an outside faucet on the house to check all the water lines since it has a GH female end. It has a Presta valve on it, so you can pop off the air source and let it sit overnight. For things like this shower addition and gas lines you need an NPT to GH adapter. For this I just screwed a piece of pipe into the showerhead elbow and blocked off the other rain shower head adapter with a capped pipe of pipe so everything can be tested at once. There was water in the lines the new shower plumbing was tied into.

I've had it a long time, but I expect they're still sold. I've had it longer than I've ever seen Sharkbite fittings, but I've never used them anyway. I think it came with a lower pressure gauge on it for gas lines and I changed the gauge to a higher reading one for testing water lines too with it. Those pipes I use for such testing stay in the copper soldering toolbox but get used for any type of water supply lines. I'd always rather test with air than water, but especially with copper.