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Mike Goetzke
02-06-2006, 12:52 AM
Besides being a little hard to put the bar into the slot with the T-lock bar (is there a trick?) I really like this miter gage.

I spent a few min. setting up the scale for a straight cut. I set the fence fairly close to the blade as instructed. Then I had a need for a miter cut and I have a left tilting saw so I had to move the fence over - messing up my scale calibration. How do others set the fence up - do you just put the blade up as far as it will go at a 45 deg bevel and move the fence over to just miss the blade?

Also, the hidden scale in the retractible fence, I take it that when the aux. fence is used it needs to be fully extended to use the scale (maybe every one just uses a ruler?)?

Somewhat related - I bent my saw blade. I'm using the new 1000SE on my new table saw and forgot to remove the 90 deg ZCTP when I was trying to set the saw up for a bevel cut. I used a dial indicator and found the blade to have about 0.004" runout (it was 0.002" two days ago). With the blade at 90 deg to the table and the ZCTP installed I can intermittently hear a blade rub. Don't want to say what blade this was but it usually costs about $90. Can blades be straightened?


Mike

Vaughn McMillan
02-06-2006, 2:05 AM
Mike, for the rare cases where I plan to rely on the scale on my Incra Miter 1000 SE, I set the sliding scale for that particular setup. Same story when I'm using the extendable fence. More often than not, I just use a ruler or story stick to cut the first piece, then set the sliding stop to exactly mimic that cut for any subsequent pieces.

I've also added an auxiliary (sacrificial) fence to the Incra. That way I know the edge of the cut in the fence is where the blade will cut the workpiece. For cases where I have the blade at 45°, I've got a 45° cut in the sacrificial fence.

There are a couple write-ups I did on setting the sliding scale (including a number of photos) in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=26906

HTH -

- Vaughn

Mike Goetzke
02-06-2006, 9:01 AM
Thanks Vaughn, that's exactly what I was looking for.

Mike

CPeter James
02-06-2006, 9:22 AM
A friend of mine did the same thing and they charged him $65 to sharpen and straighten it and his was really bent. He said it was better than new when he got it back.

CPeter

Kent Fitzgerald
02-06-2006, 9:37 AM
Besides being a little hard to put the bar into the slot with the T-lock bar (is there a trick?) I really like this miter gage.

I drop mine into the miter slot with the T sticking off the back of the saw table, and then pull it into position.

Regarding the bent blade: if it it what I think it is, the manufacturer is well known for their sharpening and repair service. I'd consult with them as to whether it's worth repairing.

Jim Davenport
02-06-2006, 10:59 AM
I got my 1000-SE Saturday, and set it up and used it yesterday. Needless to say I'm very impressed with it.
I use "Kent's" method of installing the guage on my table slot.
To set the sliding scale, I sorta followed the directions. I measured a piece of scrap set the stops. I cut the piece, then matched the scale to the cut length. I then made another cut using the scale, and measured it. It was right on.
I still think I'll measure with a tape.

Mike Goetzke
02-06-2006, 11:12 PM
I drop mine into the miter slot with the T sticking off the back of the saw table, and then pull it into position.

Regarding the bent blade: if it it what I think it is, the manufacturer is well known for their sharpening and repair service. I'd consult with them as to whether it's worth repairing.

Sliding in the t-lock from the rear of the table works great.

Also, when I got home I found the area of the blade (WWII thin kerf) that was out of wack and I hit it a couple of times with my fist - not too hard. The runout is now between 0.001" and 0.002".

For anyone with an Incra fence and a Craftsman 22124 I found the miter gage stores nicely on the brackets on the left of the saw that are intended to store the fence.

Thanks, for the help!

Mike

Mark Rios
02-07-2006, 2:03 AM
Also, when I got home I found the area of the blade (WWII thin kerf) that was out of wack and I hit it a couple of times with my fist - not too hard. The runout is now between 0.001" and 0.002".

Mike


Mike, did you dial in the fist whack or does it have an automatic setting?

:D :D :D

Mike Goetzke
02-07-2006, 9:09 AM
Mark - I was just as surprised as you!

I went in the shop and thought I'd have a shot at straightening the blade before sending it into Forrest. I don't know if the blade had some kind of oil-can effect but my dial indicator runout reading and lack of noise when using a ZCTP indicate the blade has been repaired.

Mike