Routing small parts on a table mouted router

[Patty Hann]

What do you use to hold small stock to route on table mounted router?
Small would be something less than 4x4 inches
Also to hold odd shaped stock that might have a curved edge, like a small disc or oval or egg shaped.
Thanks

[Rich Engelhardt]

I use either an 8", 10" or 12" wood hand screw clamp or my Rockler Coping sled.

I also have a few different sized routers/tables, from my main large one - a Milwaukee 5625 in a Rockler #1 table with a Woodpeckers plate, along with either the Rockler fence that I rebuilt to take different heights and thicknesses - I also have an Incra LS Positioner - to a Bosch 1617 in a JessEm Routerlift II in the Rockler w either fence.
In addition to that, I have my Bosch cordless with the plunge base, in one of Tamar from 3x3 Custom's bases that does double duty as a table.
Also - I picked up from Temu a small - about 4"X6" - Aluminum plate that will be installed in my Table saw once the weather warms.
To top it off, I have a Dremel 4000 in a router (they call it a shaper) base.

I've found that the size of the router table & router can make a big difference.

Lastly - don't overlook using the router hand held, and securing the workpiece. A lot of times you can tape the work to a table top, build up some sides around it so the router base is supported, and sort of switch things around, where you move the router instead of the piece of wood being worked on. That works well for thin things.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I use homemade versions of a coping sled.

https://sawmillcreek.org/entry.php?382-How-to-make-these

[Patty Hann]

I use either an 8", 10" or 12" wood hand screw clamp or my Rockler Coping sled.

I also have a few different sized routers/tables, from my main large one - a Milwaukee 5625 in a Rockler #1 table with a Woodpeckers plate, along with either the Rockler fence that I rebuilt to take different heights and thicknesses - I also have an Incra LS Positioner - to a Bosch 1617 in a JessEm Routerlift II in the Rockler w either fence.
In addition to that, I have my Bosch cordless with the plunge base, in one of Tamar from 3x3 Custom's bases that does double duty as a table.
Also - I picked up from Temu a small - about 4"X6" - Aluminum plate that will be installed in my Table saw once the weather warms.
To top it off, I have a Dremel 4000 in a router (they call it a shaper) base.

I've found that the size of the router table & router can make a big difference.

Lastly - don't overlook using the router hand held, and securing the workpiece. A lot of times you can tape the work to a table top, build up some sides around it so the router base is supported, and sort of switch things around, where you move the router instead of the piece of wood being worked on. That works well for thin things.

Thank you.
Yes, I've typically done it the last way you describe...building up a flat surface (around the workpiece) to support the base.
This particular project I have to put the template on top of the workpiece and use a profile bit...

The wood handscrew clamps... are they are sufficiently strong to hold odd-shaped work pieces? (see pic below.... again, no bigger than 4x4 or there-abouts)

514853

[Patty Hann]

I use homemade versions of a coping sled.

https://sawmillcreek.org/entry.php?382-How-to-make-these
Thank you... been considering making or buying a coping sled.

[James Jayko]

You can always just make a temporary sled with a piece of MDF and some of those knock off Destako clamps from HF...You'll be into it for about $3.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Thank you.
Yes, I've typically done it the last way you describe...building up a flat surface (around the workpiece) to support the base.
This particular project I have to put the template on top of the workpiece and use a profile bit...

The wood handscrew clamps... are they are sufficiently strong to hold odd-shaped work pieces? (see pic below.... again, no bigger than 4x4 or there-abouts)

514853

Thats going to be tricky. Can you devise a way to cut half of the shape at a time?
Double stick tape might work for those. CNC users talk about tape and superglue. I think that technique uses super glue to create double stick tape. Using a Robo Sander is also an option. Maybe check out Tom Benders toaster tongs thread.
How to make these (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?306065-How-to-make-these)

You might be able to borrow ideas from the Wedgie Sled as well.
wedgie sled plans - Google Search (https://www.google.com/search?q=wedgie+sled+plans&client=safari&sca_esv=ae2d012acb0463ba&rls=en&sxsrf=ACQVn09HnhwgKJt9lUWnAHt6gsXpEpYA4Q%3A1706795 158762&ei=lqC7ZcSJLtWe0PEPzImqiA0&oq=widgi+sled&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiCndpZGdpIHNsZWQqAggAMggQ ABiABBiiBDIIEAAYgAQYogQyCBAAGIAEGKIESPMjUKEIWKEIcA F4AZABAJgBlgGgAZYBqgEDMC4xuAEByAEA-AEBwgIKEAAYRxjWBBiwA-IDBBgAIEGIBgGQBgg&sclient=gws-wiz-serp)

[glenn bradley]

My preferred method is to route the profile on the edge or end of a larger blank and then cut the part off. All situations do not lend themselves to this method. That being said, handscrews can act as "jaws of life" for holding small objects for machine operations.

514857

Just a thought.

[Nick Crivello]

I'm wondering if a vacuum clamp would be useful for this; clamp it and use a handheld trim router instead?

[Bill Howatt]

For something 4x4" it should work since there can be a reasonable area under vacuum and this is the secret of vacuum clamping/chucking. Also, the vacuum is just pulling the piece "into" the vacuum and it is only friction keeping it from moving sideways so you may need to address this with higher friction surface or whatever.

[Patty Hann]

Thank you everyone ...Good ideas ... all something to think about.
Am leaning toward the hand screws because them I have them ("4 through 10").
I would not need to build a jig or coping sled at the moment...(later on, yes)

[George Yetka]

Always depends on the size and shape and what your routing into it. A small roundover/chamfer on a 4x4 piece I would use a bench dog push-bloc. Cover all but 10% of the piece hit 1 side pull it far away and rotate piece and hit it again.

[Ray Newman]

Router small parts holding jig, US $31.50 + shipping:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/router-accessories/41780-small-parts-miter-jig?item=04K0101

[Edwin Santos]

Is it possible to hot glue your workpiece to a longer carrier board? Use the starter pin in your router table if possible.

You can remove the hot glue cleanly and easily with a little denatured alcohol

[Justin Rapp]

I've made small parts holder jigs, usually on the fly as I need them for the specific cut. The one Ray mentions above is also an option. Woodpecker has a nice one, and Rockler has a very similar one for about 1/3 the cost, but it doesn't include the safety shield and of course is machined better. I think this one is actually pretty easy to make using some rock maple for the blocks, if you enjoy building jigs.

https://www.woodpeck.com/iron-grip-small-parts-holder.html

There is also some cuts that can be made with a push-block, the type you have from a jointer or get this one with the safety guard

https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-pushguard.html

Don't forget you can build or get coping sled for some end cuts and small parts.