gloves

[Gordon Stump]

As I get older I find my ability to stay on focus needs conscious focus. I would not wear cut resistant gloves for spinning blades but am considering them for the stroke sander and edge sander. The edge of the stroke sander belt cuts like butter with a hot knife. The edge sander will sand off layers of skin.

Any experience using gloves in the wood shop?

Thanks, Gordon

[Warren Lake]

old cabinetmaker I knew cut fingers twice on the edge of the stroke belt, either off or very deep. Memory was cut off and sown back on, I remember both were crooked. It was a thing I had never heard of before. Top of the belt is covered on my machine so its just the bottom one to deal with and ive never got into it so far.

[Edward Weber]

I wear gloves occasionally at different machines. A good snug fit is imperative.
I recently got some "fingerless framers gloves" no thumb, index or middle finger. They provide protection but still allow enough dexterity to operate most anything, like switches.

Juat an example
https://www.techtoolsupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CLC-140&source=googleps

[Richard Coers]

In my opinion abrasive will grind right through a "cut proof" glove. That is how they cut carbon fiber.

[Michael Burnside]

I use these when milling and handling rough lumber. They are also conductive so they are sensed by SawStop tech, phone screens, etc. Once lumber has been milled, I don't wear gloves. I would not worry about wearing these with an edge sander.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Work-Gear/Gloves/Cut-Level-3-High-Dexterity-Nitrile-Dipped-Gloves

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Safety-Solutions/Personal-Protective-Equipment/Gloves/Cut-Level-1-Nitrile-Dipped-Gloves

[Tom M King]

I couldn't find the exact ones I use for some sheet metal work, but they're very similar to these. They have coated working surfaces like these and the rest has a stainless steel mesh in them. They run small. I normally wear a L size glove but needed an XL in these. I have never cut a hand when wearing them.

https://www.amazon.com/Schwer-Protection-Touch-screen-Compatible-Black/dp/B09Q5JQ41K/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2CY0NQMED27WT&keywords=cut%2Bresistant%2Bgloves&qid=1706550379&sprefix=cut%2Bresistant%2Bgloves%2Caps%2C106&sr=8-7&th=1

[Gordon Stump]

In my opinion abrasive will grind right through a "cut proof" glove. That is how they cut carbon fiber.

"Cut proof" your words.

[Brian Runau]

I only use gloves when buying, moving lumber prior to milling to prevent splinters. Personally wouldn't have the feel I need through gloves. Brian

[George Yetka]

I were snug gloves when rough milling assuming I have more than 10 bf to do. And ill use nitrile when finishing

[Kevin Jenness]

I stay away from gloves around woodworking machinery. I used to use rubber coated gloves to keep my hands warm (neuropathy) and to improve my grip, especially when jointing, but a couple of incidents changed my mind.

A colleague lost part of a finger ("just the tip" is what he named the new mountain bike purchased with his workman's comp settlement) on the jointer when he was in a hurry, making a new part after a miscut. He is convinced that the glove tip got caught and pulled in his finger.

I came close to disaster wearing gloves while hollowing a vessel on the lathe. I let the chips build up too much in the cavity to the point where the tool tip caught and the handle started spinning like a flail with my hand attached. Fortunately the rubber coated fingers tore free from the glove body or I might be typing this one-handed. I do still wear fingerless gloves in the shop as my hands feel unbearably cold otherwise but that's a risk I'm willing to take. I keep the full gloves for material handling away from machines.

If you are having problems concentrating, step away from machinery until you can bring your full attention to bear. Take frequent breaks, take a walk, whatever it takes to keep your mind on task and your hands away from the sharp bits. If you must wear gloves be sure they fit snugly with little to no overhang beyond your fingertips.

[Jimmy Harris]

Really, if you're getting to the point where you don't trust your focus, it might be time to consider switching to hand tools and just hand sanding. Or limit your time in the shop, so you're not taxing your ability to focus too much.

If you do decide to use gloves, I'd go to the store and try on a bunch. The thing about gloves is, fitment is the most important factor. If a glove hampers mobility, or is loose in any way, it's not going to be safe to wear around power tools. You're going to want something that feels like an extra layer of skin, not like a glove over your skin. And I'd just go with some thin, leather gloves, or something similar. A power sander will eat through anything short of chain mail in a hurry. So really, the best you can hope for is something that will buy you a fraction of second while still providing enough feel to let you know you've made a mistake. A thick, cut proof glove might buy you another half second, but it won't warn you something is wrong as quickly.

[George Yetka]

Really, if you're getting to the point where you don't trust your focus, it might be time to consider switching to hand tools and just hand sanding. Or limit your time in the shop, so you're not taxing your ability to focus too much.

If you do decide to use gloves, I'd go to the store and try on a bunch. The thing about gloves is, fitment is the most important factor. If a glove hampers mobility, or is loose in any way, it's not going to be safe to wear around power tools. You're going to want something that feels like an extra layer of skin, not like a glove over your skin. And I'd just go with some thin, leather gloves, or something similar. A power sander will eat through anything short of chain mail in a hurry. So really, the best you can hope for is something that will buy you a fraction of second while still providing enough feel to let you know you've made a mistake. A thick, cut proof glove might buy you another half second, but it won't warn you something is wrong as quickly.

Milwaukee cut level 1 gloves seam to fit this bill for me. They are snug fitting. Like I said they work for me with jointing and planing rough lumber then they come off.

[Aaron Inami]

You should not wear gloves on any machinery that has a toothed blade or cutter that may grab and pull on the glove (i.e. table saw, miter saw, band saw, jointer, planer, shaper, router table, etc.). I have worn gloves at times when doing edge sanding and also when handling materials and lumber.

I have seen Jay Bates on youtube use some sort of neoprene gripper glove when pushing wood over the top of his jointer. I think I would be paranoid even doing this and would rather use GRR-Ripper push blocks or something.

[Cameron Wood]

I wear gloves much of the time, mostly very thin coated-palm ones that I buy by the gross. Also the somewhat thicker Milwaukee ones for heavier work.

They protect against the small insults and minor splinters while having the dexterity to pick up a penny, reach into the pants pocket, or open a pocket knife blade. I have done this professionally for decades.

Thicker gloves for certain chores, but around moving machinery tend to produce more danger than safety, IMO.

[Michael Burnside]

You should not wear gloves on any machinery that has a toothed blade or cutter that may grab and pull on the glove (i.e. table saw, miter saw, band saw, jointer, planer, shaper, router table, etc.). I have worn gloves at times when doing edge sanding and also when handling materials and lumber.

I have seen Jay Bates on youtube use some sort of neoprene gripper glove when pushing wood over the top of his jointer. I think I would be paranoid even doing this and would rather use GRR-Ripper push blocks or something.

Rather than turn this topic into a wholesale SawStop-esqe conversation, let's just agree to disagree on your first point about never wearing gloves, particularly the cut level 1 I linked above. As far as glove vs. GRR-Ripper on the Jointer, I agree for face jointing, but to each their own.

[Richard Coers]

"Cut proof" your words.
Okay, powered abrasives will cut through cut resistant gloves much faster than a single blade knife. Better? I just have to stop responding to the internet!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Shortly before I retired, my employer sent cut proof gloves to all field employees. I took mine to the shop and the first time I wore them while moving some lumber in my shop, a long splinter went through the glove and broke off at an angle that made removing the glove without doing further damage, nearly impossible. I threw the gloves out. When the job requires, I wear leather gloves. But seldom find it necessary to wear them in the shop.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Rather than turn this topic into a wholesale SawStop-esqe conversation, let's just agree to disagree.....

I believe this has nothing to do with SS rants - wholesale, retail, or other. The critical issue is not what can cut your flesh, but what can grab at a glove's fingers.

The spur on a brad point bit, for example, without drawing blood could catch a glove's finger[s] and do tremendous damage to the hand/arm/body if it were in a drill press, and merely awful damage in a cordless drill. While uncommon in home shops, powered chains/sprockets and belts/sheaves are on the same risk/results curve. These same cautions apply to loose-fitting sleeves on shirts/jackets.

No flesh would provide contact to activate the SS wizardry, so it would provide no protection.

In my years in industrial/commercial settings, proper safety management prohibited gloves and loose-fitting sleeves around things that turn, pinch, grab, etc.

[Edward Weber]

Rather than turn this topic into a wholesale SawStop-esqe conversation, let's just agree to disagree on your first point about never wearing gloves, particularly the cut level 1 I linked above. As far as glove vs. GRR-Ripper on the Jointer, I agree for face jointing, but to each their own.

Agreed,
Just as I don't let my bare finger get into harms way, I don't let the gloves get near blades and cutters, there is no difference. If my gloved clad hand is close enough to a blade or bit that it gets caught, then my hand was too close, don't blame the glove.
Gloves are there to provide some protection for my hands, they are not a substitute for a safe work method.
I know the risks, I wear gloves, many different types for many different tasks.

[jack duren]

I never wear gloves regardless. But when I was on blood thinner I was having a heck of time not scraping and bleeding. Until I got off tye blood thinners I wore fingerless….
https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjW0cbksoOEAxXEaUcBHQJcB2YYABAPGgJxdQ&ae=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1tHG5LKDhAMVxGlHAR0CXAdmEAQYAiAB EgKy3vD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASJeRoHTRUda6QFjazVxV94ycmBE8DyUKc7hCHA2Wv_c WkQ-s7R-Y&sig=AOD64_1X8Xz5pAEwJnalC8ajXnkTaXV3ug&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwj38LzksoOEAxUahIkEHZBdDeMQ5bgDKAB6BAgHE A4&adurl=

[Lee Schierer]

You should not wear gloves on any machinery that has a toothed blade or cutter that may grab and pull on the glove (i.e. table saw, miter saw, band saw, jointer, planer, shaper, router table, etc.).


I agree!!!!

[Larry Edgerton]

I keep cheap motocross gloves around. They fit tightly, have a good gripping surface and can be had for about $6. I like them for roughing out stock and sanding, Hands are getting weak and they allow me to work longer I always cut the left index finger off. There are no hard and fast rules, the guys that say"Never wear gloves" crack me up. Just use your head and they can make your workday more pleasant.

[Tom M King]

Here are the ones we (me and my helpers) use for moving lumber, metal, and general use around the Ponderosa. I'm wearing them when I'm driving a tractor or mower. I could never get much done with stiff leather gloves. Like boots, they slow me up too much. The black dots make them last a lot longer than the cotton work gloves without the dots. They're laying around the shop in a bunch of places, in the truck, in tractors, so it's easy to find a pair. I almost never wear them when running pieces through a saw or over a jointer, but often when using a planer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00622XUYS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Gordon Stump]

My original post stated I was considering using gloves on the stroke sander and edge sander. Then I asked if anyone had experience using gloves in the woodworking shop. That was the wrong guery and I guess I opened an interesting discussion. The question should have been.....Does anyone have experience using gloves on the stroke sander and edge sander.

So I took matters into my own hands:) I held a leather glove against the edge on a running 195" 80 Grit belt for 10 seconds. It did not cut into the glove or grab the glove at all. Then I held the glove on the surface of the belt. It basically cleaned the leather with no grabbing.

Next I held the glove against the surface of a 80" belt on the edge sander. No grab and just cleaned the dirt off the leather.

Oh, regarding the "really" comment about losing focus, I am not ready for assisted living just yet and I appreciate your concern.

All good, love this forum!

[Warren Lake]

I dont see them for the stroke or edge sander. IM a pad guy and not the travelling arm and im always on top of the back side of the lower belt on the wood. Its pretty hard to hit it sideways. My upper belt is protected. The old british cqbinet maker likely did his damage on the top belt on a machine not covered. He was 83 at the time and still working but had done the damage long past. Didnt ask him for specifics and should have. I guess you want them for the edge in case you slip into it.

when I did lots of work in solid there were calluses and no need to wear gloves. I have tried sticky faced rubber ones even knowing its wrong on the jointer to get traction. Worked well enough but didnt keep doing it. Ive always used a wet sponge in a rubbermaid container and just put my fingers on it and get better grip on the board when needed.

What type of stroke sander.

[Cameron Wood]

Real world testing? Imagine that!:)

[jack duren]

Gloves..
if you don’t know when to wear them in the shop, you need a lot more help than this..

[Tom Bain]

Personally, I never wear gloves when operating woodworking machinery (I do when moving raw lumber to minimize splinters). If I encounter a situation where I'm concerned about having a good or proper grip on a workpiece, my first inclination is to think about jigs or fixtures to improve workholding and/or enables my hands to be in a safer position.

[Gordon Stump]

What type of stroke sander.

514731

You are right Warren. I got in to far on the top belt twice in the last 30 years. Not too bad but the cuts were fairly deep and takes a long time to heal. The stroke sander is a kit. It took me a long time to figure this out. I am thick headed.

[Warren Lake]

thanks now that adds up and ill have to check my middle one,. I built the first one for a company then bought it from them years later then had a progress then this itailian. I have memory of a cut on my forehead and was thinking how is that possible. Well very likely the progress had not upper belt protection and that is how it happened. The italian one now the top belt is covered and I think it came cut in half and I welded it back to one long cover. past owner did it for sanding on the top but I use the edge sander and not really needed the top position so the lid is always down. Even one reason if the belt ever mistracks or breaks the top cover is a positive thing as it wont.

Id work out a less invasive top belt cover that comes from behind as thats visually almost in the way. Does make sense thanks for the photo , understand what you have to work with now and how you could catch that. So its clear at this point for strokes an upper cover is a positive thing. some really large machines have the belts way up high and not be an issue think some old large wadkin machines.

I checked and the first built had no guard, The progress upper had no guard either. I saw one from an auction where they built a shelf under the belt with a board then put a second over top, that way they would be protected and also its covered from the top but lift the top board off and it becomes a sanding surface. Just a mcigiver job but it might work for you and be safer and not in the way. I always planned to add some LED four footers under the upper cover and maybe a few on the wall then experiment what works best.

[Gordon Stump]

Gloves..
if you don’t know when to wear them in the shop, you need a lot more help than this..

Dear Mr. Duren, Thank you for your thoughtful comment. Very truly yours, Gordon Stump

[Warren Lake]

the gloves I tried with the sticky palms were good on the jointer. Still I had to stay with what we were told and have for a long time. The gloves were tight and in that type of jointing not a hazard. There was nothing for them to get caught in. I didnt continue with gloves but not opposed to trying it again to rethink it future for that same function dont see others. Maybe some partly wear gloves as cold shops, seen enough guys bundled up in you tubes so some shops are cold.

I went back to how I always did it the damp sponge in a container beside the machine and just press my hands on whenever it seemed right. It lasts a bit, not long. The damp hand gives more grip on the wood. We are going more forward than down but down as well. Its very different to joint a small piece than long. Even longer still jointing 14 - 16 feet as new dynamics appear. I had no idea if i could joint long stuff the first time, it had never come up before. cutterhead is covered for a long time when you joint long stuff, at least if your fence is drawn over.

[Gordon Stump]

514988

Edge sander:

Sanding and breaking the edges on the walnut cleats in the picture hurt me more than once. I used gloves today and it went well. Another good application for gloves is the flap sander. I sand them down to 150 and 180 G on the flap sander. It can pull you in but with gloves it does not sand off skin if you get too far in.

I guess there is a time and place.

[Mike Cutler]

For decades I was anti gloves in the wood shop. It was the way I was taught, and to wear gloves while wood working was just heresy.
A wenge project I did 10-12 years ago kind of changed that. Wenge is nasty to work with, and the splinters hurt like hades going in and coming out. I typically work with tropical hardwoods, and they can be nasty. Gloves can help mitigate the splinters.
Do I wear gloves all the time. Absolutely not, But If I'm running largish material through machines and my hands are well away, why not wear gloves? for positive control, Plywood cuts really suck, and you can get those just moving plywood around.
When I do wear gloves, they are tight fitting kevlar reinforced gloves with rubber coated palms and fingers. Never leather gloves, or any glove that will allow my hands to slip.
I can definitely see gloves around large sanders. Sometimes all you need is a split second or two and the glove can temper that. If you have sanders that the running edges are exposed, something is missing on that machine, or it is really old.
There's a time and place for everything, and there is no one size fits all answer.

On a personal note, the worst cuts I have received through the years have all come from hand tools. Get in a hurry cleaning up and pick up a #5 plane set up for scrub work wrong, and it's good for a few stitches across the fingertips.

[jack duren]

I’ve worked the shops for decades and never wore gloves..

[Mel Fulks]

No one should wear gloves while woodworking, without learning when they need to be removed ! Statistics show that many who say they they don’t need gloves get more splinters than those who wear gloves. But they get to take a lot of breaks in the infirmary.
I worked with one guy who got fired for using to many bandaids .

[Mike Cutler]

I’ve worked the shops for decades and never wore gloves..

And you do not have to, unless your employers require it.
I would however like to see the results of any OSHA Material Handling inspection in these shops. Every lumber mill I've been in recently has everyone wearing gloves to handle lumber, and sheet goods.
Realize also, that the number one answer given when someone gets hurt in the work place is, "I've/We've always done it that way".
The OP is asking for a very specific instance of wearing gloves. Not the wide spectrum of all things that can possibly be encountered. One singular aspect of an operation is what he's looking for input on.

[Warren Lake]

the stroke sander has an exposed belt it needs a cover.

The blocks I see no reason for gloves for those, its simple sanding. Ive never used gloves on an edge sander even on tiny things, youd have less feel. On the positive you wont stay in in long if you get in. Its best to keep your finger prints.

When doing lots of jointing of rough material calluses were thick protection. Got very few slivers from rough red oak. Know some are worse, one mentioned somewhere above and my body didnt appreciate any aliens from IPE.

[Dan Chouinard]

I routinely wear tight fitting thin grippy gloves in the shop especially at the table saw and jointer. Speaking for myself, loosing grip of a work piece presents far more danger than having a glove get grabbed by a blade. Hands are far more strong with a good grip. This is so apparent when handling plywood for example. Go ahead and pick up a sheet bare handed and then again with a grippy glove. Night and day difference. At the table saw, It is so much easier for me to get that lateral pressing necessary to keep work piece tight to fence when wearing an appropriate glove. My focus when ripping is just that, watching work piece where it meets the fence and use all the lateral right hand finger force I can muster to keep it from wandering away and potentially binding. I use custom shop made plywood push sticks for narrow stock.

[Gordon Stump]

Thanks to Warren Lake I lowered the guard and attached a board on the bottom. I think I will make a C channel that goes around the belt from the front. Like Mr. Cutler said.....just because it has always been that way does not make it right....

I will still wear gloves on these sanders. I need my fingerprints to open the iphone!

Appreciate the comments

[Jim Becker]

The only time I wear gloves in the shop, other than during finishing processes, is when flattening rough/splintery boards on the jointer, particularly wide ones like the 345mm (about 13.25") boards I was processing today. Otherwise, I avoid it for the obvious reasons.