QSWO Bookcase with shiplap back - Finishing

[Kris Cook]

I am building this bookcase, which is a Stickley No. 700 replica. I will be aiming for an "Aurora" type finish. I am considering using transtint dye followed with gel stain per Jeff Jewitt's method. I am concerned about how to apply, particularly the shiplap panel, how much to pre-finish, and how much to pre-assemble.

I would appreciate any helpful input.

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[Rob Luter]

I have used variants on the Jeff Jewitt method on a number of pieces with good results. Is your shiplap back already assembled? If not, I'd finish all the components prior to assembly to keep the gel stain from accumulating in the cracks, nooks, and crannies. That is unless that look appeals to you. An Aurora finish is lighter than most Mission style finished so that may not be as big a deal as it would be with others.

I usually dye and stain everything I can pre-assembly. It makes for a much more polished look. I'll typically dye and stain first, then do my glue up. After assembly I always lay down a coat of natural Danish Oil prior to applying shellac or other topcoat. I then use wax applied with an ultra fine ScotchBrite pad or 0000 steel wool.

I would be tempted to find a big box (or make a tent) and ammonia fume the piece either before or after assembly. I did this with the Stickley #603 Tabouret below. Natural Danish oil, Blonde Shellac, and Paste Wax after fuming yielded a nice Aurora honey color.

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[Kris Cook]

Thanks Rob - my original thought was to fume the thing. I am however, concerned about the variation in color given the wood I have in the piece. I have never done fuming but have researched a fair bit and am willing to go that route if that would provide a fairly certain outcome.

Nothing is glued up, just clamped together for now. I will noodle on this some more.

[Christian Hawkshaw]

I have done several pieces with Jeff’s methods. I pre-finish everything if it is possible. The only time I don't pre-finish is if the joinery is joining coplanar surfaces, for example, a door frame. But even for a door, I will pre-finish the panel and the inside of the frame.

[Kris Cook]

Thanks all. I am getting ready to pull the trigger on the components to use Jeff Jewitt's methodology for finishing this piece. I have read a lot of posts and I see where spraying the dye is preferred, if possible. I assume this is for even coverage and maybe speeds the process to eliminate lap marks?

I have a HVLP sprayer with 3m PPS setup. Question - how hard is is to cleanup the equipment after spraying TT dye (likely will use DNA with the dye).

Re: pre-finishing - after thinking about Christian's comment and giving this some more thought in general - I could see pre-finishing with the dye step and then assembling prior to sealer gel stain, wipe on finish. Seems like the riskiest step is the dye as far as getting even coverage, followed by wipe on steps that are more forgiving. Does this make sense?

[John TenEyck]

Cleaning your gun after spraying TT dye is no different than after spraying other products. Flush with solvent, disassemble, clean, reassemble. TT comes out of the gun very easily.

I would either prefinish completely or do nothing until after assembly. It's easy to damage the dyed surface if it's not sealed.

John

[Rob Luter]

Thanks all. I am getting ready to pull the trigger on the components to use Jeff Jewitt's methodology for finishing this piece. I have read a lot of posts and I see where spraying the dye is preferred, if possible. I assume this is for even coverage and maybe speeds the process to eliminate lap marks?

I have a HVLP sprayer with 3m PPS setup. Question - how hard is is to cleanup the equipment after spraying TT dye (likely will use DNA with the dye).

Re: pre-finishing - after thinking about Christian's comment and giving this some more thought in general - I could see pre-finishing with the dye step and then assembling prior to sealer gel stain, wipe on finish. Seems like the riskiest step is the dye as far as getting even coverage, followed by wipe on steps that are more forgiving. Does this make sense?

Having been through this a few times myself, I'd suggest doing a trial run on some scrap or offcuts to get comfortable with the process. I applied the dye with a foam brush. I use DNA instead of water. You have a lot more real estate to cover so I think a sprayer is a good call. What the process doesn't prepare you for is the sinking feeling after the dye gets applied that you've ruined the project. The color change is dramatic. Relax, as the Gel Stain step will subdue the dye and only allow the highlights to come through. A couple examples below:

This hall table was finished with an eye towards Stickley's Manlius finish. After I applied the reddish brown dye, I was heartbroken. I was certain the red was going to be way too much. It was fine. The Walnut Gel stain brought everything together.

Build thread here: LINK (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?124154-Hall-Table-Finished)

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2538/4080656293_840f041965_b.jpg

Here's a little stool I made that also used the Jewitt/Homestead process. The goal was to achieve a Stickley Aurora finish but with a little more pop. As you can see in the original thread, this thing was pretty yellow after the dye stage. It was fine when complete.

Finishing thread here: LINK (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?289630-Homestead-Mission-Finish-Process)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50966469231_a7cdfa24b7_b.jpg

[Kris Cook]

Thanks John. Appreciate the input.

[Kris Cook]

Thanks again Rob. The links are very helpful. Now I need to finish making the piece and will figure out my finishing steps.

[Rob Luter]

Make sure you post the finished piece. I'm looking forward to seeing it.