acclimaiting wood

[Tom Bussey]

How do you store your wood when preparing to acclimate It? How long do you acclimate you lumber before using it?

[Ron Citerone]

I have a wood pile and sticker it in my attached garage. No definite time, but I think it does help.
I think how you handle it after you start jointing and planing is a bigger issue. I never let one side exposed to the air with the other side on a table or counter overnight or for a long tome.

[Jim Becker]

If I'm truly acclimating material that is new to my shop, I try to sticker it. And then partially mill it (even amount on each side unless there's a reason that can't be done) then stack and sticker for a day or so. From there it's full speed ahead. I use thin stickers for this

[jack duren]

Kiln dried or rough sawn that’s not kiln dried?

[Jimmy Harris]

It depends on a lot of things. But I usually don't buy wood until I need it for a project. And I work out of an exposed garage.

But I like to buy the wood first and give it as much time to acclimate as I can, if that's an option. So often, it might sit from anywhere around one to two days, to one to two weeks. I've got a moisture meter and I'll usually take a reading and compare it to a similar wood that I have in the garage and if they're far apart, I might force myself to wait a little longer until they get close. But most of the time, I just deal with it.

My experience is boards tend to warp when I work them and relieve internal stresses, so it's better to work with the woods movement than fight it, if possible.

Now if I'm working on something that's going to live indoors when completed, I might try to keep it and/or the lumber inside the house when I'm not working on it, if I can. That way it acclimates to my house instead of my garage. Other times I might sticker it in the garage and let whatever happens, happen. Sometimes, if it's particularly dry or humid day outside compared to normal, I might cover the wood in plastic sheeting and not sticker it to keep it from changing rapidly.

If I had a steady environment, I might have a steady routine. But since everything around me is always changing, I try not to worry too much about what I can't control and just deal with whatever adversity presents itself as it arises. But one thing I do like to do is work quickly once I start joining stuff. The more you wait, the more wood moves.

[Ron Citerone]

Especially if I am using it for door frames I, like others said, I will joint it just flat and then plane the other face removing an equal amount. Then sticker and weight it for several days before planing to finished thickness. Straight grain wood for door stiles and rails.

[Tom Bussey]

I happen to agree with three other comments. I trend not let it aliment at all. I go straight cutting it 1 /4 over over size I like to leave it to leave it at least as long as I can but at least 2 inches . I then joint the first side then plane the other side. I try to do it in equal amounts. I tend use an over head close line to hang the wood on.

[Michael Burnside]

If I'm truly acclimating material that is new to my shop, I try to sticker it. And then partially mill it (even amount on each side unless there's a reason that can't be done) then stack and sticker for a day or so. From there it's full speed ahead. I use thin stickers for this

Pretty much copy+paste this for me.

[jack duren]

We don’t acclimate anything from the cabinet shop to the furniture shop. It offers no difference in assembly to wait..

[Myles Moran]

I try to give wood a week in my shop per inch of thickness. Usually this means one weekend I go to the mill and break down pieces enough to mill, and then load them into my shop. The next weekend I'll mill and start working. It's not an ideal workflow, but given everything in my shop is on wheels except my tablesaw and workbench, I try and do milling in one or two times per project to minimize time spent moving machines.

I also sticker everything. I have a few buckets with 12" pieces of 1x2. Any time I stack lumber it's stickered for airflow.

[Richard Coers]

Let's see how many ways we can spell acclimating? LOL

acclimiting wood (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?307084-acclimiting-wood)

aliment at all.

[jack duren]

I’m just curious if the wood knows the difference from one shop to the truck to your shop. Kiln dried wood isn’t going to absorb enough moisture on the top boards to even worry about it… if your worry about it, don’t use the top boards……

[Tom Bussey]

I am somewhat surprised, usually I have read that it has to set for 3 months before use. and usually I got a lot of back lash when I said I didn't acclimate at all. Since my shop is not heated ( -4 today) or cooled at all I treat Air dried the same. However I used try to stay clear aired dried. I do now have an abundance of Ash I will have to deal with. I have no intentions of acclimating it when it inters the shop It is 1x19x a little over 8 FT. It was dead when it was cut down and processed. it has been stored this way for two years and the last Time I checked it it was at 10 percent which is about as good as it is going to get. I just haven't got to it yet.

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[Jim Becker]

Tom, the specific material matters. A few years ago I special ordered a lot of KD clear white pine in for a client project. It seemed to be dry based on my moisture meter, but I fortunately checked again after skimming it on both sides and found it to be higher in MC than I prefer. So I stacked and stickered it in the shop for a few days; did the deed again and...had to stack and sticker it again. And again. Four iterations later is was actually stable and ready to complete the project. I didn't have the option of returning it because it was special ordered (hard to get, too), so I was glad it became usable after about a week of careful conditioning. OTOH, the wood I have personally air dried has been relatively stable and only needed minor conditioning. Most of the KD wood I've purchased "off the racks" from my normal purveyors has also be stable and ready to work but I still practice the skim and stack/sticker for at least overnight just to be sure. If something needs months to stabilize, then that material was not really ready to go when it was purchased.

[jack duren]

If you have to stack kiln dried lumber it’s a supply issue. I couldnt tell you how loaders of lumber I’ve worked with. I know at the furniture company we were the larger buyer of ash lumber in Midwest..

[Kevin Jenness]

If you are buying large quantities of kd lumber recently out of the kiln that's one thing, if purchasing smaller quantities that have been sitting on a rack for months in whatever ambient conditions it's entirely different. My experience tells me that if the in-service conditions vary widely from those in which my lumber has been stored prior to use I am going to have problems. When I bring in commercial lumber I always check the moisture content before use.

It can take from days to months to acclimate lumber depending on the species, thickness and the initial and target mc. If the (accurately measured) mc is within a couple of points of the target I don't see any reason for acclimation. I do dice the lumber up and give it at least overnight to react to any tension release. A small kiln or conditioning chamber with a dehumidifier can be invaluable if you are in a hurry.

[Jim Becker]

If you have to stack kiln dried lumber it’s a supply issue.
No disagreement. But sometimes it's necessary, such as when I had to do it. There was no option to return the material and the project had to be done. Fortunately, it was pine and the conditioning did not delay the project.

[Rod Sheridan]

It depends upon the state of the wood.

If I take timber out of the rack in the shop, I’ll break it down, joint and plane oversized and leave it for a day.

Yesterday I brought in some 5/4 red oak from the shed that I sawed and air dried 3 years ago, in the Center it measures 132 Megohm, which is 12% relative humidity.

It’s stickered in the shop, I’ll measure it every week, I expect it will take 2 to 3 weeks to reach equilibrium

Regards, Rod.

[Bill Howatt]

...
Yesterday I brought in some 5/4 red oak from the shed that I sawed and air dried 3 years ago, in the Center it measures 132 Megohm, which is 12% relative humidity.
...
Regards, Rod.
Given that the above line was written by an electrical wizard, I'm not overly surprised to see it but I am curious about where one finds the listing for impedance vs moisture content and measuring protocol. I have a pin type meter but I'm curious.

[John Kananis]

I would also like to know this. In addition, what device and method did you use to measure the impedance? I have a small lab with test equipment (I'm a hobbyist) and would love to be able to do this.


Given that the above line was written by an electrical wizard, I'm not overly surprised to see it but I am curious about where one finds the listing for impedance vs moisture content and measuring protocol. I have a pin type meter but I'm curious.

[glenn bradley]

If I'm truly acclimating material that is new to my shop, I try to sticker it. And then partially mill it (even amount on each side unless there's a reason that can't be done) then stack and sticker for a day or so. From there it's full speed ahead. I use thin stickers for this

I do as Jim does.

[jack duren]

I think it comes down to your supplier.,Sounds like some of you need to seek out a better supplier…

[Lee Schierer]

I normally purchase S4S lumber from a reliable source. Even so, I usually check the moisture of new pieces to similar pieces that have been in my house for some period of time. If there is significant difference, then I allow the new wood to acclimate for a few days or to when the moisture levels match. Since my source is pretty reliable, I usually can use the lumber right away.

[Rod Sheridan]

Given that the above line was written by an electrical wizard, I'm not overly surprised to see it but I am curious about where one finds the listing for impedance vs moisture content and measuring protocol. I have a pin type meter but I'm curious.

Haha, hi Bill, I downloaded a spreadsheet from the US Forest Service, it has more species than I’ll ever need.

Once you look at the spreadsheet you’ll recognize why you need a meter that can compensate for species.

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Regards, Rod

[Lee Schierer]

Haha, hi Bill, I downloaded a spreadsheet from the US Forest Service, it has more species than I’ll ever need.


A link would be nice......

[Rod Sheridan]

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Hi, hopefully this helps.

Regards, Rod.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, here’s the progress on the red oak moisture content after being brought from an outdoor shed into my basement shop.

Jan 12. 135 Megohm, 12%RH

Jan 15, 345 Megohm, <11%RH

I’ll try to remember to update this a couple of times per week.

Regards, Rod

[Terence McGee]

If I'm truly acclimating material that is new to my shop, I try to sticker it. And then partially mill it (even amount on each side unless there's a reason that can't be done) then stack and sticker for a day or so. From there it's full speed ahead. I use thin stickers for this

Seconding this ^

If you want, you can get a moisture meter, just to gauge the wood before using it.

[John Kananis]

This may be helpful to some.

https://woodgears.ca/lumber/moisture_meter.html

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I'd suggest "locale" has a lot to do with it. Our average annual moisture is 13". 3" less and we'd be a desert. We start watering our lawns with untreated irrigation water by mid-June if you want your lawn to not go dormant.

A retired Navy chief from Pensacola, FL area once brought me some wood as he and his wife traveled out to the west coast and up through the NW. He was stunned how much warpage happened to the wood as he traveled to the west coast.

Even kiln dried wood, I let acclimate in my shop for a couple weeks before I start using it. You can have your opinion, you can do what you want. It's your shop, your rules. In my shop, it's my rules.

[Jim Dwight]

I buy hardwood from a supplier less than 100 miles from me here in South Carolina. They buy their wood kiln dried and store it in a large unheated building until somebody buys it. My shop is unheated too. So unless the wood just arrived at my supplier their storage conditions are the same as mine and I see no reason to wait on processing. I did not wait even one day before starting to process the last wood I bought. But I move so slow some of it will sit in my shop weeks before I get to it.

Once I start processing the wood I expect it to start moving a little. So I have to allow for that. But I don't think that is an indication it is drying, it is just residual tension in the wood.

I occasionally use construction lumber in furniture and I measure that. 10% is good in my experience for construction lumber. It can be twice that. 10% is usable in my opinion but 20% is not. So I wait or get another piece. Even with these precautions it moves more than the kiln dried hardwood I use.

[Bill Howatt]

Haha, hi Bill, I downloaded a spreadsheet from the US Forest Service, it has more species than I’ll ever need.

Once you look at the spreadsheet you’ll recognize why you need a meter that can compensate for species.

513797

Regards, Rod

Thanks, Rod. I was surprised at the range of variation throughout the species but it seems that once you get around 10% they all increase at an exponential rate. You're right, nothing like a moisture meter to make it simpler - now where did I put that species compensation sheet that came with it?

[Lee Schierer]

Thanks, Rod. I was surprised at the range of variation throughout the species but it seems that once you get around 10% they all increase at an exponential rate. You're right, nothing like a moisture meter to make it simpler - now where did I put that species compensation sheet that came with it?

I wish my Mini Ligno species setting card had more species of wood listed for the two settings available.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, I had to repost as I can no longer edit my previous post

This is red oak that I milled and air dried, then stored in the shed.

It has now been moved into my basement shop, getting ready for a cupboard door project

Jan 12 135 Megohm, 12%RH

Jan 15, 345 Megohm, <11% RH

Jan 19, 890 Megohm, <10% RH

Regards, Rod

[Warren Lake]

should be 6.5 - 7.2 at the most at least that is what Metz always preached for furniture makers. How thick and are you hammering pins in? My delmhorst went in 5/16" with the hammer but also had long pins any firewood said one thing on the outside that always changed middle didnt in that same period of time. Dlelmohorst died after 35 years of use but someone is looking at it now, hoping he can repair it and I can get a second latest equal quality. that one cost a lot back then.

[Rod Sheridan]

Warren, my wood is 5/4” and the pins are driven in to the middle of the board….Regards, Rod

[Warren Lake]

5/4 rough full thickness? its too wet still.

[Rod Sheridan]

5/4 rough full thickness? its too wet still.


Yes it is, once it stops drying it’s ready for use, probably another week to go.

Regards, Rod

[Tom Bussey]

Been on vacation in Florida for a week. Had humidity running down the window. I guess it would take some time learning how to deal with it humidity like that.

Anyway. from most of the comments. most people do not let wood acclimate more than a few days it before starting to use. So why does the wives tail about letting it acclimate for up to 3 months still exist?

[Jim Becker]

Been on vacation in Florida for a week. Had humidity running down the window. I guess it would take some time learning how to deal with it humidity like that.

Anyway. from most of the comments. most people do not let wood acclimate more than a few days it before starting to use. So why does the wives tail about letting it acclimate for up to 3 months still exist?
Because the specific material matters. Sometimes it's ready "now", sometimes it's not. But there is always going to be an issue with "general rules of thumb" and we have to think about it, test what needs tested and go from there. It's no different with the old "1 year per inch" for air drying lumber. Some lumber drops MC very quickly and some takes a lot longer. The secret to a good outcome is...to test it and not tear down the stack until it's actually down to where it needs to be.

[Tom Bussey]

Yes I know that specifics matter. I know my local hard wood saw mill and he kiln dries 6-8 %. Then it is stacked in his shed for what ever. It is open to air what ever the humidity is on the given day. By shop is not climate controlled and you will be hard pressed to convince me that the moisture content will change the wood in the twenty miles it travels to my shop. . The wood in the picture was at 10 % a year ago. It was dead long before it was cut down and processed. It was stacked board by board when it was sawn. The wood is 6 miles from my shop. I will check it again and then will get what I need and re-bundle it and store it there. I will not do anything to it except start cutting. I will keep track only because I consider it air dried and I do not prefer it mix it with kiln dried in the same project. It is either air dried or kiln dried and neither the two shall meet. Maybe it doesn't mater but personally I am not going to find out.

[Kevin Jenness]

Yes I know that specifics matter. I know my local hard wood saw mill and he kiln dries 6-8 %. Then it is stacked in his shed for what ever. It is open to air what ever the humidity is on the given day. By shop is not climate controlled and you will be hard pressed to convince me that the moisture content will change the wood in the twenty miles it travels to my shop. . The wood in the picture was at 10 % a year ago. It was dead long before it was cut down and processed. It was stacked board by board when it was sawn. The wood is 6 miles from my shop. I will check it again and then will get what I need and re-bundle it and store it there. I will not do anything to it except start cutting. I will keep track only because I consider it air dried and I do not prefer it mix it with kiln dried in the same project. It is either air dried or kiln dried and neither the two shall meet. Maybe it doesn't mater but personally I am not going to find out.

The important thing to me is not so much whether the material is acclimated to the workspace as what it is going to do in service wherever it winds up. Kiln dried wood stored in an open shed in my climate will end up around 12% or so, and if I process that into finished work and put it in a heated space it is going to have problems. Certainly mixing wood with different moisture levels in the same project is asking for trouble. I do heat and air condition my shop so it is close to typical interior levels. If I work with material that is not in equilibrium with shop conditions I dead-stack or keep it covered and work it as quickly as possible so it doesn't get squirrely while being processed. I don't work to old wives' tales but I have had enough experience with wood that is not acclimated to its expected use to be conservative.

[Tom Bussey]

Kevin I agree with to a point. But there are a lot of internal stress in a board, that's one reason of a riving knife and most of the stress comes from just the tree growing. there is going to be more if it grew on a hill side, Sawing the boards into lumber drying and so on and And the wood being cut changes the equilibrium of the piece cut but most of the time it is attributed to moisture. I never hear or read about stress relieving. I cut my wood 1/4inch over finished size. I mark the detail number and hang it b a hook on a line in My shop. I am a hobbyist and just cutting to a cut sheet can take better than a half a day. I let it hang with 4 sides exposed to equalize moisture content. It helps let the squirrels out. I semi finish all the details and rehang. It lets the rest of the squirrels out and mow I have four fresh sides open the air. I finish all sided of the project with the same number of coats of finish. I have stuff setting in my house for 35 years and it is the same as it was when I built it.

I contend it is more in letting the wood relieve the stresses in it and following proper construction points like no cross grain gluing and allowing joints to move than moisture. An example is my work bench. Every piece of the work bench has the same number of coats of finish and the same method of milling parts. I have worked on it for 15 years now. Remember moisture effects only size, it grows and shrink's along the grain.

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[Rod Sheridan]

It depends upon the state of the wood.

If I take timber out of the rack in the shop, I’ll break it down, joint and plane oversized and leave it for a day.

Yesterday I brought in some 5/4 red oak from the shed that I sawed and air dried 3 years ago, in the Center it measures 132 Megohm, which is 12% relative humidity.

It’s stickered in the shop, I’ll measure it every week, I expect it will take 2 to 3 weeks to reach equilibrium

Regards, Rod.

Here’s where I am now

Jan 12, 132 Megohm 12%Rh

Jan 15, 345 Megohm <11%RH

Jan 19, 890 Megohm <10%RH

Jan 31, 2,195 Megohm <9%RH

8 to 9% RH is equilibrium in my house so the red oak is now ready to use.

Regards, Rod.