slider technique - better way to do this?

[David Zaret]

i have a feeling i'm about to walk into a "duh, i'm an idiot" moment... but with that risk accepted....

is there a better way to make this cut? this certainly works, just wondering if there's a more efficient approach. thanks.

this is a plywood jig, using the crosscut fence and stop as reference, supporting a piece of 8/4 oak at a deep (and specific) angle.

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[Kevin Jenness]

Not sure what your concern is. You might want to clamp the workpiece end close to the blade, rather than the jig, to ensure it doesn't pivot.

I often make cuts like that with a zero clearance platen fastened to the carriage with double stick tape using layout marks on the workpiece edge for alignment. That works well for varying angles. For repetitive cuts a jig like yours makes sense. I also use Fritz and Franz when possible, or a parallel guide and crosscut stop513596

[Lisa Starr]

I usually makes cuts like this using 2 parallel guides and the crosscut fence, so your method is very similar. I've had good success with repeatability using this method, but am interested in seeing what others suggest.

[Steve Wurster]

It looks fine to me as well, although Kevin has a good point about clamping the board on the blade end as well.

The only other thing I might recommend is possibly doing the cut "backwards", where the blade would exit through the end of the board rather than enter through the end as you have it depicted. That would lower the chance of tearout on the long end of the board, since you would be going with the grain in that scenario.

[Warren Lake]

I use the stock rip fence same as cabinet saws. Just set on plywood with blocks to get the angle needed.

[David Zaret]

yeah, my clamp doesn't reach, and i was too lazy to take it apart and move it. that board didn't move a bit, and the cut was fine. good to know there's not a fundamentally better approach....

-- dz

[Aaron Inami]

I would say this is fine if you have 2 clamp points. If you are only clamping one point, the material could rotate as you push it through the blade.

[Jim Becker]

I have often used this technique to do angled cuts on a board or panel. It's one of the things I love about using a slider...it can be anything you need it to be as a "fixture" by using appropriate clamping and the cut quality is excellent when you do. Aaron is correct that it's critical to support the workpiece with clamping and other elements including the fence, blocks/panels, etc. I will add that I actually have a taper jig I made years ago for my previous slider that I use for table legs, so you can do this ad-hoc when needed or make a formal fixture that clamps to the wagon for repeatable cuts now and in the future.

[Joe Calhoon]

I rarely use jigs to cut tapers on the slider. Maybe if I had repeats but most everything is one off for me. Usually I use the cross stop and rip fence in combination. Depending on the angle sometimes the parallel fence also. I have clamps fore and aft but the F&F will also hold the workpiece steady.
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[Jacques Gagnon]

David,

Interesting thread; thanks for initiating the conversation. I have learned interesting approaches from the input.

In addition to the methods already mentioned, I use a couple of « mini F&F » on which I have installed clamping devices. Compact and quick to set up.

Regards,

Jacques

[John Pendery]

Joe, is that notched aluminum block that registers over the stop something you use to bridge the gap between the two contact points of the crosscut fence? I run into this problem from time to time and cobble something together, but curious if this is your solution, or something else entirely?

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[Joe Calhoon]

John,
This came with my saw. I did not know what it was till the German tech from Martin was setting up another machine and explained it to me. It is for cutting short pieces where the stop will not go down that short. The bar is 200 mm long so you just subtract 200 mm from the dimension on the stop. It would be easy to make one and could be done in inches.
A lot of people have been interested in this but Martin US says they cannot find this as a accessory. Easy enough to make one though.

[John Pendery]

Thanks, Joe! I think I’ll make one of these for my saw. Looks like a good simple solution for a problem I run into frequently.

[David Zaret]

John,
This came with my saw. I did not know what it was till the German tech from Martin was setting up another machine and explained it to me. It is for cutting short pieces where the stop will not go down that short. The bar is 200 mm long so you just subtract 200 mm from the dimension on the stop. It would be easy to make one and could be done in inches.
A lot of people have been interested in this but Martin US says they cannot find this as a accessory. Easy enough to make one though.

joe thanks for this - i'll also make one of those, looks handy. another thing you might be able to solve... often i'm in a situation where the fence-side clamp can't reach the piece without hitting the dust guard. happens fairly frequently, where the shoe isn't able to get close enough. any thoughts or suggestions?

[Joe Calhoon]

Dave,
I have a couple simple wooden bridges for narrow pieces. Mac Campshure posted on the FOG a nice solution for this that he made out of metal. His has a adjustable foot.
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[Kevin Jenness]

I also use bridges for narrow pieces clamped in the gap between the workpiece and a same thickness scrap.

[David Zaret]

perfect. that's what i've done "informally" in the past, but it's time to make some proper parts. thanks guys.

[Chris Parks]

Thanks, Joe! I think I’ll make one of these for my saw. Looks like a good simple solution for a problem I run into frequently.

For short pieces I use the rip fence, set the dimension required and place the material being cut on the sliding table and the rip fence becomes the stop with the "offcut" being the required size. I think I use this method more that the cross cut fence stops on the outrigger.

[Derek Cohen]

I find tapers, especially narrow tapers, are safer on this style of parallel guide ...

https://i.postimg.cc/c44GFLmZ/5.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/JnVWx3Td/1.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Regards drom Perth

Derek

[John Pendery]

For short pieces I use the rip fence, set the dimension required and place the material being cut on the sliding table and the rip fence becomes the stop with the "offcut" being the required size. I think I use this method more that the cross cut fence stops on the outrigger.

This is a go to method for me as well. Occasionally I run into a situation where extended support between the two contact points would be beneficial though.

[Joe Calhoon]

Same here, the stop extension gets used mostly for ripping miters with the parallel fence and sometimes small miter cross cuts with the double miter.
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